kevsta

[kevsta]

Thanks heaps Betty.K !

This was driving me nuts being my first iwaver experience…

[kevsta]

The squeling sound can’t be good. Have you tried turning the armature by hand to see if it’s binding anywhere in the motor can ?

Also push the tip of the armature to see if there is any play within the motor can. Some play is good – if it doesn’t move then you might need to open it up and remove a shim.

[kevsta]

Thanks betty. It says it discharges as well before the charging, only I don’t know if it does this for nimh. I might check it out tommorow at jaycar…

[kevsta]

Here’s a link to the theory of rc car handling for some light reading…

http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/

Like Merc said, that nut on the damper is really for setting the ride height. You should probably aim to have the chassis sit at around 5mm to 5.5mm off the ground if running on a smooth tennis/netball court surface.

Preloading the spring to make them harder means you won’t have any droop/chassis uplift.

[kevsta]

The tamiya kit tyres don’t offer much grip and wear out quite easily. Most club racers use Sorex tyres.

Is your car understeering or oversteering or both ?

[kevsta]

Visit http://www.gearchart.com and print yourself a gear chart for the TT01. I think the TT01 has limitations on the size of the pinion gear that you can use similar to the mini m03 chassis.

For a 540 silver can 27T motor a gear ratio between 4.5 – 6.0

For a Stock 27T motor a gear ratio between 6.5 – 8.0

If using the lower end of the gear ratio range, make sure drive train is silky smooth and free as motor will run hot and could kill the magnets…

I’m not sure what gear ratio to run for a 21T motor, perhaps someone else can make a suggestion…

[kevsta]

Ogier wrote:

They are great fun, but mine handles like dogs balls – it spins on it’s own when it picks up a little speed, so I race in reverse 🙂 Unfortunately running into things backwards does more damage than forwards.

Part of the fun with these cars is to work out why the car is handling bad and to improve on it so that it out handles the competition. Have you checked that the h plate isn’t tweaked/not perfectly flat, one of your front wheel nuts isn’t on too tight or adjusted your ball diff so that there is minimal slip ?

Wish I could race in the office like yourself.

[kevsta]

I’ve also just placed an order for an iwaver02. From little reading it seems most people just replace the iw chassis with the kyosho one and get alloy front knuckles for durability. Parts are interchangeable between iw02 and mr02 but not with iw02m.

[kevsta]

I actually like the mr02 for low center of gravity with the battery layout. I feel that it handles very nicely and has a more direct feel when you’re putting it through the turns.

[kevsta]

I don’t hate slot cars at all. I have the afx bathurst set that I bring out every now and then for some good fun racing…

But a mini-z track takes slot car racing to another level…
😀

[kevsta]

I got my bearing set from rc-mart.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_108_762_763&products_id=16219

Diff bearings are included ! Although not ceramic – they’re good enough for what I use it for.

[kevsta]

ph2t wrote:

lol, how do you find that setup mate? Did you have any issues with the ATOMIC ball diff?

ph2t.

What I meant to say was if you hit the brakes hard the rear spins around and the car will do a 180 degree spin out. If I apply the brakes slowly, it will slow down in a straight line.

I don’t have any issues with the atomic ball diff, but I’m only running the stock motor and don’t have any plans to run anything powerful. Oh.. and I broke the ball diff in through one set of batteries first before adjusting it to the right tension.

Does anyone put sewing machine oil in the one way bearing ?

:smiley14:

[kevsta]

I’m also running the kyosho front one way and atomic ball diff in the rear.

Hit the brakes and the rear spins around just like a 1:10…:D

[kevsta]

ph2t wrote:

Just wanted to add that egrracing.com is a good source for ATOMIC products. I know rcmart has a lot of ATOMIC stuff as well but since their move into a new site their order processing times have blown out to over a week on average.

egr though processed my order in 2 days and had it shipped promptly. I’ve always preffered to order from HK than the US given the speed and cheaper shipping. rcmart has always been great up until now. So egr has my business…..

ph2t.

I’m not a fan of ordering from the US – they don’t seem to have registered post, and right now, I have one order which appears to be lost in transit and there is nothing that I can do about it. I’m sticking with registered mail and EMS from now on.

[kevsta]

I’ve probably only used about 2% of the options. The fail safe option is quite interesting… but after a while I turned it off.

[kevsta]

How about an internet cafe in close proximity to where back packers usually stay. Do xbox 360 modchip installs on the side and run a z track/racing.

That would be fun…

[kevsta]

Sorry to hear about that.

Hope it all works out for you and the mrs…

A guy that I use to work with studied the share/options market for 2 years and worked out how to properly trade with options. He told me that he would average 3-4k each month with about 4 hours work each month. He had a pager, laptop that was constantly monitoring the market though.

When he got made redundant, he was all smiles and looking forward to the extra payout.

[kevsta]

z-beam wrote:

it limits power so that the front wheels have power going forward only? i dont get the point of an item like that..

It gives you more power at the front wheels so that you can enter and exit corners faster than if you had a ball diff. They can be a bastard to learn how to drive as you almost always have to be on the throttle. Any braking will see you doing a 180 turn as the rear wheels do the braking.

[kevsta]

Betty, go through this shop http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/

I’ve made numerous orders through them for my 1:10 gear and have always been happy with their service and speed at processing orders.

[kevsta]

Here’s a link to a spur gear cover that should stop all the crap from getting into an rc18t. A bit pricey… but think of all the gears you can save.

http://www.drivenpro.net/index.php?s=store&pn=101

[kevsta]

More articles, product reviews, tutorials should attract more people to this site.

[kevsta]

I bought an iwaver 01 off stix today as a gift/present to someone else. He definitely makes you happy with all the freebies that he throws in to the sale. 🙂

[kevsta]

Hey icebreaka, I don’t like the foam strips as barriers because as soon as the car touches them it holds them up and you need to reverse to get out of the situation. You can’t ride a track barrier with the car…

l2d

[kevsta]

I’m finding with the one tile track width that it’s a touch too small for me. I know everyone’s going to say ‘learn to drive’, but I don’t like driving half throttle with a stock motor. I think a track width of two tiles would be ideal. I’m thinking of turning the track upside down and making wider track barriers….

[kevsta]

I’m finding with the one tile track width that it’s a touch too small for me. I know everyone’s going to say ‘learn to drive’, but I don’t like driving half throttle with a stock motor. I think a track width of two tiles would be ideal. I’m thinking of turning the track upside down and making wider track barriers….

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