Can you replace the Control Buttons???

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    • #9417
      Admin
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      I was playing around with my skyline and then it happened:smiley3:,the forward button stopped cliking and was sticking on:smiley6:,then the left button started doing the same!I was abit :smiley7:,so i took the control apart and had a brain storm and wondered if it was possible to put the control panel in a crappy old warehouse remote control case and rewire my board to the stick controls to give me a better chance of wear in tear or am i just dreaming!?Or can you buy the original clicking buttons from dicksmith or sum shop like them?

    • #16212
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      I would have to check, but from memory, they are just micro switches like you can get at DS or Jaycar.

    • #16216
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      yeah, this happened to me too. (hey, 1st post on the forums after lurching around for a while).

      it’s different though. here my left button stopped clicking after only an hour or two of use, but it still seems to function ok. would definitely like to replace it if possible though.

    • #16217
      z-beam
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      • Posts: 2265

      i got the same prolem. is yours a compact 40mhz?

      i’m going to swap my orange buttons for blue oem ones.

    • #16221
      Admin
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      mine’s a compact 27mhz (nissan).

      are you going to replace the front plastic parts you actually touch or the microswitches?

      mine’s definitely a microswitch problem (if that’s what they’re called).

    • #16224
      Admin
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      mine ismine’s definitely a microswitch problem! ive just pulled out all four switches and tomorrow im gunna put sum SPST Momentary”On”Push Button Switch http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3dbc8bfe027b3df4273fc0a87f99074c/Product/View/P7558and see what happens!If you know of any better let me know cheers!!

    • #16226
      Admin
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      Oh buy the way i have a G-04 WHITE SKYLINE R34 45MHZ on reciever but 27mhz on box ohh well!

    • #16232
      Admin
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      i have had this prob but not relly that much of a consern soo im just going to leave it as it is

    • #16234
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866

      Test the existing switches first, to see if its Single or Double Pole ‘DP’.

      I was mucking about with an s-iron on the board on Fri night… I didn’t remove any switches entirely (I did resolder a few connections though) but I suspect there’s 2 circuits each switch that need closing – so you might need DP. There are also 4 distinct legs to each switch (2 pairs) which suggest DP.

      Momentary switches are by definition “single throw” so they’re always ‘ST’. Although most are momentary-ON, sometimes there’s also mom-OFF ones just to annoy the heck out of us.

    • #16235
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      Ive just checked and they have four legs or as you say “DP”.So what would be best for this job?What should i be asking for?Cheers NZ…

    • #16238
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866

      If there are 4 legs = 2 pairs, a ‘DP’ switch is 2 separate switches operated together in the 1 unit.

      Make sure first that they *are* DP, then if they are you can only replace them with DP switches. You’ll need 4 jumpleads for each switch between the PCB and wherever you mount them.

    • #16246
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      Yeah i see what you mean!So would i be asking around for (double pole micro switches)or is there another name i should be asking for?Would dicksmith have them by chance or jaycar maybe?

    • #16255
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866

      Dunno, maybe its too specialised for them. Is it same over in NZ?

      I hate JAYCAR after how they treated me in Melbourne last time when I wanted to exchange their faulty lousy product. I swore never to go back since and when I get some time I’ll be putting in a major formal consumer complaint.

    • #16260
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      Im not to sure?I havent realy asked for anything like this before but im sure there would be something out as there normaly is!Ill try DS tomorrow and see whats haps with them!Im sorry about your dealings with Jaycar maybe they had a off day?I havent tried them yet as i didnt know about them till da other day but you reckon they would stock them?????

    • #16266
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      Originally posted by biggboy on 28October2002

      Im sorry about your dealings with Jaycar maybe they had a off day?

      Well, I had the blue with the MANAGER of the store, so if the MANAGER HIMSELF can behave like that then what hope does his underlings have of picking up better habits?? Gee whiz, I wouldn’t even treat a Dead Dog that bad.

      Believe me or not, I’m actually a pretty easygoing guy.

    • #16267
      Admin
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      But do they stock these micro switches?

    • #16278
      BigKid
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      • Posts: 8

      I would try re-soldering the switch pins before ditching them just incase of a dry joint.

    • #16297
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      Originally posted by biggboy on 28October2002

      But do they stock these micro switches?

      Dunno, I don’t live in Kiwiland… :smiley3:

    • #16299
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      try a bit of wd40 or switch lube, and resolder joints

    • #16305
      Admin
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      thanks for the tip about trying the lube/wd40. will give that a go.

      pretty sure the joints don’t need resoldering.

      my switch seems to maybe be getting worse, so I’ll have to try something. it definitely seems to have a tighter right turning circle than left now. not sure if that’s about the button though?

      would be interested to find out if anyone knows of dick smith or jaycar having specific parts which would work.

    • #16308
      Admin
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      Just picked up some new buttons today and put them in what a difference!And by the way pandabear “JAYCAR ARE A AUSTRALIAN COMPANY”anyway they stock them here so its all good!

    • #16310
      Admin
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      The turning prob is very typical of bcg. I thought it was the car at first (it sorta is) but one of the buttons has lost its click, and seems to have a high resistance contact, so if i press Xtra hard my car turns tighter circles (only when turning left)

    • #16311
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 29October2002

      and seems to have a high resistance contact, so if i press Xtra hard my car turns tighter circles (only when turning left)

      Oh ya, I must have forgetten to mention…squirt some electrical contact cleaner spray into the buttons and that’ll fix it quick. Spray it between the round button and the chromed surround.

      This is special ‘nil residue’ contact cleaner (aka RC Motor Spray); don’t use WD40 or any stuff that leaves a layer of oil everywhere.

    • #16313
      PandaBear
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      • Posts: 1866

      The other possible fault could be related to how hard you press the buttons. I’ve seen examples where the guy has pressed so hard, its bent the PCB and cracked the case where the 2 board screws secure it. Can’t be too good for the board…

    • #16318
      Admin
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      ok cool I’ll drop past jaycar and see if I can pick some up.

      weird though, I couldn’t really see any DP ones on their web page. maybe it isn’t on there.

      it was a DP one you bought which works fine biggboy?

    • #16324
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      Yes it was a”DP” switch this should help you its the code number!( SP0600 TACT SW 6X6X4.3MM HORIZ SPST N)Qty 1$ 0.75nz

    • #16333
      Admin
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      ok great thanks, biggboy.

      that should help heaps.

      easy enough to solder in? imagine it would be a bit funny soldering the four legs at once…

    • #16337
      Admin
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      YES!Its pretty simple just remember to put some solder grease around where your gunna solder so youdont spill any solder onPCB then you should be all right!To get them off i had a little sucker pump which you push down until clicks then when solder heats up i push the button and the pump sucks the runny solder up leaving no mess and very simple then with a pair of pliers pull the switch off gently….SWEET AS!!!!!!

    • #16339
      Admin
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      ok, cool thanks.

      don’t have solder grease, but I’ve got a sucker pump, so hopefully will have some success if I can find one.

    • #16340
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      BUY THE WAY THESE SWITCHES ARE SLIGHTLY BIGGER SO WHAT I DID WAS I GOT MY FLAT NOSE PLIERS AND STRAITINED THE NEW SWITCHES LEGS THEN BENT THEM IN SLIGHTLY YOULL SEE WAT I MEAN!THEN WITH A STANDARD NEEDLE I SLIGHTLY MADE THE HOLES WHERE THE ORINGINAL PINS WERE SLIGHTLY BIGGER JUST ENOUGH FOR THE PINS TO FIT THROU!THEN PUSH THE SWITCH IN AND TRY AND GET IT AS CLOSE TO THE BOARD AS YOU CAN!THEN FLATEN THE PINS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF BOARD TO BRING THE SWITCH EVEN CLOSER!THEN SOLDER UP OH BY THE WAY YOU CAN USE VASALEAN AS A GREASE!!!!THEN ITS JUST A MATTER OF USEING YOUR SOLDERING IRON TO MELT A GROVE IN YA CONTROLLER BUTTON AND YOUR AWAY !!!!!!!!!

    • #16346
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      hmmm, ok. thanks for the tips.

      sounds a little tricky, I’ll see how I go.

      with this reckoning though, would you have to replace both switches on one of the buttons? like not possible to just replace the left and not the right button (what I want to do)?

    • #16350
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      Yes thats fine!!

    • #16536
      Admin
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      ok, finally got around to doing this. went well.

      I actually find the buttons more responsive now as less pressure is required to activate the switch.

      I replaced the left and right switches (left one was semi broken). I had to thin the top of the controller cover down near the right switch to stop it from being constantly on.

      replacing the switches like this without actually needing to could be some kind of extra responsiveness mod I guess…

    • #16537
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      Good to hear that!Youll find the buttons are of a better quality!

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