considering making one of these….

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    • #12056
      twizm
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      • Posts: 205

      http://members.surfeu.de/cyberjunky/racechassis.html

      im going to make (or try to) one of these chassis. not exactly the same, because i want mine to be compatible with my shells. i also would like it to seat the shells so they sit level, as per a 1:1 car would (some shells sit insanely high on the rear, think 350Z). a possiblity is making this adjustable, so that all shells sit properly. (the rx-7 and celica shells sit pretty much level, i want to replicate this with ALL shells).

      any ideas on what materials to use? im thinking either plastic, thin metal (aluminium) or for extreme weight loss, wood or foam. its even a possiblity to just utilise some of my clones to cut up and reform into a new shape.

      i will be keeping the car stock, with only a single cell and FETs on my booster, maybe use my spare 2 nicads as a dual cell (which also may be able to have plug and play utilisation? hehe, the more i think about it, the more i find out i can add)

      im planning to draw an outline of the BCG chassis as a stencil, i feel this is the easiest way to keep the measurements exact.

      basically, im going for a lower, more stable chassis that allows for shells to sit level and stuff. i also like the look of the direct drive system hes got going, with the pinion in contact with the large gear.

    • #50114
      merc-blue
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      • Posts: 1547

      if u can get like 1mm or like .7 mm sheets of carbon that should be plenty stiff and strong and super light only problem is it takes ages 2 cut and if u rush it dies very easy. i would love to see some more non stock chassis. i tryed 2 make one ages ago so that i could fit awd in but it never really worked..

    • #50122
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      i think AWD is a possibility, but the difficulty in constructing it would be pretty high. when you think about it, you gotta make all new knuckles for the wheels, or develop a whole new system thats not knuckles at all, especially if you want the wheels to have suspension.

      where would i get sheets of carbon?

    • #50285
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      ive done some ringing around, and i can get my hands on some 1mm thick acrylic/perspex/plexiglass (or flexiglass? you yanks make up stupid names even for things with names!) and im wondering if this would be any good? its relatively cheap at a $1AU for a sheet the size of a number plate, so this would be great. im still unsure if i want to make a bathtub or just a flat chassis….

      bathtub would be easy with acrylic, i could just strip heat it and fold it up from a prism-net or something, but carbon would be harder to work with i assume..

      for the wheels to join onto the chassis (the all important factor and hurdle here) im thinking of chopping up my clone chassis and simply gluing it onto the new chassis with the axle stuck inside. this would give the car 1mm less clearance and may help the problem of tipping/rolling at high speeds.

      as it is now, i still have no idea how to mod the chassis so that it lets a shell sit on it properly. i love my 350z shell, but getting it to look decent on a bit is a task, the clearance between the rear wheel and the shell wheel well is a joke.

      anyway, enough rambling for now, let me know what you think of the acrylic/perspex/plexiglass idea and i might go check it out tomorrow.

    • #50486
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      ive done some ringing around, and i can get my hands on some 1mm thick acrylic/perspex/plexiglass (or flexiglass? you yanks make up stupid names even for things with names!) and im wondering if this would be any good? its relatively cheap at a $1AU for a sheet the size of a number plate, so this would be great. im still unsure if i want to make a bathtub or just a flat chassis….

      bathtub would be easy with acrylic, i could just strip heat it and fold it up from a prism-net or something, but carbon would be harder to work with i assume..

      for the wheels to join onto the chassis (the all important factor and hurdle here) im thinking of chopping up my clone chassis and simply gluing it onto the new chassis with the axle stuck inside. this would give the car 1mm less clearance and may help the problem of tipping/rolling at high speeds.

      as it is now, i still have no idea how to mod the chassis so that it lets a shell sit on it properly. i love my 350z shell, but getting it to look decent on a bit is a task, the clearance between the rear wheel and the shell wheel well is a joke.

      anyway, enough rambling for now, let me know what you think of the acrylic/perspex/plexiglass idea and i might go check it out tomorrow.

    • #50291
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      sounds good. at this scale plexiglass should be fine and offer a little flex. have a look at ph2t’s quad cell monster, he’s basically made a pan chassis out of wood and if you look closely at the pics you’ll see how he attached the steering assembly. perspex can crack though so drill and cut it carefully. i doubt it will break in use though but if you notice any cracks in it then they will only get bigger, so scrap it and start again:8ball:

    • #50492
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      sounds good. at this scale plexiglass should be fine and offer a little flex. have a look at ph2t’s quad cell monster, he’s basically made a pan chassis out of wood and if you look closely at the pics you’ll see how he attached the steering assembly. perspex can crack though so drill and cut it carefully. i doubt it will break in use though but if you notice any cracks in it then they will only get bigger, so scrap it and start again:8ball:

    • #50292
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      yeah, wood was a possibility, but i think itd be too fragile in the long run. although light as hell, i dont think its the correct choice here. carbon or plexiglass are suitable, although i still have no idea where im gonna find sheets of carbon. any ideas?

      the main concern i have with this is the aesthetic appeal of the shells i was hoping to fix, im still a bit lost on how to modify the chassis to allow for a lowered shell, so the cars look more lifelike.

    • #50493
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      yeah, wood was a possibility, but i think itd be too fragile in the long run. although light as hell, i dont think its the correct choice here. carbon or plexiglass are suitable, although i still have no idea where im gonna find sheets of carbon. any ideas?

      the main concern i have with this is the aesthetic appeal of the shells i was hoping to fix, im still a bit lost on how to modify the chassis to allow for a lowered shell, so the cars look more lifelike.

    • #50293
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      update: got about 1m x 10cm of 2mm plexiglass for free coz the guy liked me! will work on it soon…

    • #50494
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      update: got about 1m x 10cm of 2mm plexiglass for free coz the guy liked me! will work on it soon…

    • #50294
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeh sounds good. i really dont think wood is a option lightness isnt a issue its more the thick ness and balsa is to thick that the scale compared to weight and strenght

    • #50495
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeh sounds good. i really dont think wood is a option lightness isnt a issue its more the thick ness and balsa is to thick that the scale compared to weight and strenght

    • #50295
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      actually wood is fantastic, ph2t’s wooden pan chassis is plenty strong. i think he used a toungue depresser, but it’s only 1 – 1.5mm thick. paddle pop sticks would be good too, easy to work with, readily available. just use quality super glue:8ball:

    • #50496
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      actually wood is fantastic, ph2t’s wooden pan chassis is plenty strong. i think he used a toungue depresser, but it’s only 1 – 1.5mm thick. paddle pop sticks would be good too, easy to work with, readily available. just use quality super glue:8ball:

    • #50296
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      chassis_desgin.jpg

      thats the design so far, although i think the plastic i got is a bit too thick. this definately will be one hell of a low rider when im done!

    • #50497
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      chassis_desgin.jpg

      thats the design so far, although i think the plastic i got is a bit too thick. this definately will be one hell of a low rider when im done!

    • #50297
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      srsly i think that paddle pop sticks are to thick …. if i was gonna make a chassis i would eb going for like 3.-.5mm carbon.. but that just casue everything i do has 2 be perfect 🙁

    • #50498
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      srsly i think that paddle pop sticks are to thick …. if i was gonna make a chassis i would eb going for like 3.-.5mm carbon.. but that just casue everything i do has 2 be perfect 🙁

    • #50298
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      well where do you get it? you keep talking about it but every time i ask you where to find it you dont answer.

    • #50499
      twizm
      Participant
      • Posts: 205

      well where do you get it? you keep talking about it but every time i ask you where to find it you dont answer.

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