Kyosho Ultima RB Racing Sports RTR Set

[jamiekulhanek]

Hey, i m a mouse click away from getting one of these. I want to know if it is worth getting, most people rate it as a good car but it needs bal bearings.

Wills, what do you rekon??

[merc-blue]

yeh looks nice but ive always been told 2 stay away from RTR

[PandaBear]

Ultima RB is not a bad vehicle; its a few yrs old now but 1/10 offroad 2WD racer technology is pretty mature already and there’s been no real new innovations since then. A classic design, nothing too wrong with it.

Commonest complaint with 1/10 2WD nitro is… the parts are often a bit on the fragile side. I suspect the base design was for an electric versions which would hold up to normal abuse well enough, but the gas engine just makes it that much faster. (well, don’t hit anything too hard and you’ll be ok :evil:)

The stock Ultima electric buggy is heaps more advanced & tougher than Tamiya Super Hornet… and doesn’t cost much more either.

Personally speaking, I think that buggy shell is hideous on a GP car – looks like a backyard hack job. 🙁

If I wanted to get one I’d go for the truck version instead; get bigger balloon tyres too.

Bearings are essential, especially for GP. Something tells me the Ultima uses some non-metric bearings on the axles & metric in the gearbox, so best buy the BBs as a full kit if you can. Might be harder than usual to piece a set together from loose BBs.

[jamiekulhanek]

Cheers, look, for $212 bucks i reckon you can’t go wrong.

One big question is, parts, are there some floating around these days???

Bearings….hmmmm dunno where im gonna find ’em.

[PandaBear]

Kyosho parts shouldn’t be too hard, Oz importer is pretty good.

Expect the usual needs – front arms, front bulkhead, slipper bits.

Quote:

Bearings….hmmmm dunno where im gonna find ’em.

Best get from RCMart maybe, ask them for a quote.
Don’t have to be Kyosho originals, anything will do.

[jamiekulhanek]

Okay whatabout clutch/brake/engine/gears/tyres

[PandaBear]

Tyres – any std buggy affair will do, lots of cheaper & better rubber out there other than Kyosho. Suggest try Proline boots.

Engine can be rejuvenated with a new piston & liner ($100), maybe the conrod ($50) too.

Everything else you’d be better off just buying a whole new car. It’ll be cheaper!! :blush:

[merc-blue]

is duraraxx any good for offroad eletric.. im either getting them or tamiya casue tamiya have been around for ages and have got lots of good revies… was well as being resonably cheap

[merc-blue]

is duraraxx any good for offroad eletric.. im either getting them or tamiya casue tamiya have been around for ages and have got lots of good revies… was well as being resonably cheap

[jamiekulhanek]

I think kyosho make the best off road buggies, i.e. the Kanaii II is the pinnacle of off road buggies, which indicates something.

[jamiekulhanek]

I think kyosho make the best off road buggies, i.e. the Kanaii II is the pinnacle of off road buggies, which indicates something.

[jamiekulhanek]

Damn, this thing comes on thursday (can’t wait!), Race day is on sunday, i’ve already bought my nitro fuel, glow plug heater and crosswrench. Also bought an air filter cause i don’t believe it has one to begin with.

[jamiekulhanek]

Damn, this thing comes on thursday (can’t wait!), Race day is on sunday, i’ve already bought my nitro fuel, glow plug heater and crosswrench. Also bought an air filter cause i don’t believe it has one to begin with.

[PandaBear]

Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.

Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂

How much did postage come to on that?

ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).

[PandaBear]

Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.

Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂

How much did postage come to on that?

ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.

Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂

How much did postage come to on that?

ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).

One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).

He said that for the first 2 tanks, you leave it idling(adjust to a high idle), up on blocks to eliminate clutch wear.
Then another 5 tanks driving around slowly with the body off.
Then the rest of the bottle, driving the car slightly harder each tank. Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.

Is this correct?

Postage ehblackeye:, i did buy a few things for the MR01 and for the Ultima RB, the package was around 5kg, and i got it express posted…heck there was $15 difference between postage rates, and i am impatient!

Batteries…..5 cell NiMH pack i reckon!

Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 24 March 2004 11:17:20

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.

Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂

How much did postage come to on that?

ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).

One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).

He said that for the first 2 tanks, you leave it idling(adjust to a high idle), up on blocks to eliminate clutch wear.
Then another 5 tanks driving around slowly with the body off.
Then the rest of the bottle, driving the car slightly harder each tank. Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.

Is this correct?

Postage ehblackeye:, i did buy a few things for the MR01 and for the Ultima RB, the package was around 5kg, and i got it express posted…heck there was $15 difference between postage rates, and i am impatient!

Batteries…..5 cell NiMH pack i reckon!

Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 24 March 2004 11:17:20

[PandaBear]

Quote:

One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).

Ahh, if the plug picks up any metal filings yeah change it.
But if it still keeps going & the coils look clean, no need.

Try a new plug whenever you have problems idling or starting,
especially when it runs ok but dies when you take off the warmer.

OS makes best plugs for ‘normal’ engines, we’ve been using the
OS #8 for oooh about 30 yrs. :smiley16: Suits Kyosho engines well.

OS has a ‘cheaper’ plug called the A3 – it works exactly the same
but the wire coil is only platinum-plated. The #8’s coil is solid
material, there’s no plating that can wear out and it’ll give
you at least 3-4 times the life of an A3; Costs only a few bux more.

Have seen some Kyoshos come with A3 in the kit… the distributor
didn’t believe me so we went to his warehouse, dragged a kit off
his shelf and pulled the plug – ta dah! :smiley16:

Quote:

… Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.

I’d run it in on the % that you want to run on normally.

If you change % afterwards then another tank or 2 of run-in is good too.

Suggest nitro 10% or 15% is good;
10% probably more than enough & cheaper.

Should have oil content of about 15-20% minimum.
Castor is better as it gives a nice smoke. Synthetic don’t give much
smoke, harder to tell if you’re running rich enough.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).

Ahh, if the plug picks up any metal filings yeah change it.
But if it still keeps going & the coils look clean, no need.

Try a new plug whenever you have problems idling or starting,
especially when it runs ok but dies when you take off the warmer.

OS makes best plugs for ‘normal’ engines, we’ve been using the
OS #8 for oooh about 30 yrs. :smiley16: Suits Kyosho engines well.

OS has a ‘cheaper’ plug called the A3 – it works exactly the same
but the wire coil is only platinum-plated. The #8’s coil is solid
material, there’s no plating that can wear out and it’ll give
you at least 3-4 times the life of an A3; Costs only a few bux more.

Have seen some Kyoshos come with A3 in the kit… the distributor
didn’t believe me so we went to his warehouse, dragged a kit off
his shelf and pulled the plug – ta dah! :smiley16:

Quote:

… Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.

I’d run it in on the % that you want to run on normally.

If you change % afterwards then another tank or 2 of run-in is good too.

Suggest nitro 10% or 15% is good;
10% probably more than enough & cheaper.

Should have oil content of about 15-20% minimum.
Castor is better as it gives a nice smoke. Synthetic don’t give much
smoke, harder to tell if you’re running rich enough.

[PandaBear]

Hey James…

Do you really care to extend the engine life??

If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…

1) take out & pull the new engine apart.

(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)

2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens

3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual

4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)

5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.

(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)

Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.

And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Hey James…

Do you really care to extend the engine life??

If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…

1) take out & pull the new engine apart.

(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)

2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens

3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual

4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)

5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.

(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)

Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.

And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Hey James…

Do you really care to extend the engine life??

If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…

1) take out & pull the new engine apart.

(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)

2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens

3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual

4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)

5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.

(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)

Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.

And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:

I don’t think i will go THAT far. Id probably wreck it if i did that.

I need BB’s for this car….and a TUNED exhaust!

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Hey James…

Do you really care to extend the engine life??

If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…

1) take out & pull the new engine apart.

(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)

2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens

3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual

4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)

5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.

(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)

Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.

And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:

I don’t think i will go THAT far. Id probably wreck it if i did that.

I need BB’s for this car….and a TUNED exhaust!

[PandaBear]

Dang, you didn’t buy BBs from RCMart??

[PandaBear]

Dang, you didn’t buy BBs from RCMart??

[jamiekulhanek]

They don’t HAVE them!

[jamiekulhanek]

They don’t HAVE them!

[PandaBear]

Damned, are they THAT hard to get??? 🙁

[PandaBear]

Damned, are they THAT hard to get??? 🙁

[jamiekulhanek]

Towerhobbies have discontinued them!

[jamiekulhanek]

Towerhobbies have discontinued them!

[jamiekulhanek]

Well i got my car, and have just finished breaking it in…….as it’s my first Nitro car, i have found pros n cons of electric vs. nitro.

-Electric is quiet and has much more torque and bottom end power and torque. But of course the low run times and charging packs sucks.

-Nitro…noisy, messy and has no bottom end power, you gotta rev the shit outta these to do any powerslides etc. (nova rossi and other high performance engines have way more response)
Though i am only running 5% nitro. Also it’s just fill n go, but costs a bit to run.

With my kit, i have learned alot already…..driving the hopper is great training, this new thing is so much easier to drive! Does nice tabletop jumps (~1 metre no probs) and is much more stable (better suspension, wider track).

As is, on a nice flat surface, i think my hopper would whip my nitro buggy, but tuning and high nitro fuel should help.

The body is…..well….they could have made it a different shape….it looks outdated.

[jamiekulhanek]

Well i got my car, and have just finished breaking it in…….as it’s my first Nitro car, i have found pros n cons of electric vs. nitro.

-Electric is quiet and has much more torque and bottom end power and torque. But of course the low run times and charging packs sucks.

-Nitro…noisy, messy and has no bottom end power, you gotta rev the shit outta these to do any powerslides etc. (nova rossi and other high performance engines have way more response)
Though i am only running 5% nitro. Also it’s just fill n go, but costs a bit to run.

With my kit, i have learned alot already…..driving the hopper is great training, this new thing is so much easier to drive! Does nice tabletop jumps (~1 metre no probs) and is much more stable (better suspension, wider track).

As is, on a nice flat surface, i think my hopper would whip my nitro buggy, but tuning and high nitro fuel should help.

The body is…..well….they could have made it a different shape….it looks outdated.

[leonli17]

So have u check the top speed of this thing yet?

[leonli17]

So have u check the top speed of this thing yet?

[jamiekulhanek]

Top speed is around 45-50km/h i think.

Which is plenty fast enough on the BMX track near my house.

Over the big doubles the thing gets a good 5′ of air, and lands great! Surprised how much grip it has for a 2wd buggy.

I covered the bottom of the alloy chassis with about 3 layers of fibreglass reinforced tape….stops the scratches.

Also roughened up the calipers, now the brakes work great, especially on grass.

5% nitro seems to be fine….might try 10%.

[jamiekulhanek]

Top speed is around 45-50km/h i think.

Which is plenty fast enough on the BMX track near my house.

Over the big doubles the thing gets a good 5′ of air, and lands great! Surprised how much grip it has for a 2wd buggy.

I covered the bottom of the alloy chassis with about 3 layers of fibreglass reinforced tape….stops the scratches.

Also roughened up the calipers, now the brakes work great, especially on grass.

5% nitro seems to be fine….might try 10%.

[jamiekulhanek]

HA! running the thing on 16% nitro now and its a HUGE improvement….the fuel is a cheaper brand, but is recommended by O.S.

The exhaust setup is silly, it makes the whole back end of the car a great big mess.

Problems so far:

-Melted clutch (3-4 times so far!) but fixed it, usually while setting up the brakes.

-exhaust rattled loose and gasket disappeared, meaning oil leaked out all over the place, baking on to the hot exhaust and making a huge mess.

-Broken fuel tank(made one hell of a mess! primer never worked.

So i went to my lhs and bought.

-A brand new fuel tank (primer works!)

-A new exhaust manifold gasket. (Cleaned engine)

-A pit fuel bottle (just a handy thang to have and stops spillage)

-A silicone exhaust deflector (exhaust now goes out over the left rear oil shock (no mess!), looks nice too.

-Fuel filters (a must)

And i stuck on a suckie filter too.

Next is tuned pipe, new tyres and ball bearings if i can find the buggers.

[jamiekulhanek]

HA! running the thing on 16% nitro now and its a HUGE improvement….the fuel is a cheaper brand, but is recommended by O.S.

The exhaust setup is silly, it makes the whole back end of the car a great big mess.

Problems so far:

-Melted clutch (3-4 times so far!) but fixed it, usually while setting up the brakes.

-exhaust rattled loose and gasket disappeared, meaning oil leaked out all over the place, baking on to the hot exhaust and making a huge mess.

-Broken fuel tank(made one hell of a mess! primer never worked.

So i went to my lhs and bought.

-A brand new fuel tank (primer works!)

-A new exhaust manifold gasket. (Cleaned engine)

-A pit fuel bottle (just a handy thang to have and stops spillage)

-A silicone exhaust deflector (exhaust now goes out over the left rear oil shock (no mess!), looks nice too.

-Fuel filters (a must)

And i stuck on a suckie filter too.

Next is tuned pipe, new tyres and ball bearings if i can find the buggers.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…And i stuck on a suckie filter too.

a what?? :question:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…And i stuck on a suckie filter too.

a what?? :question:

[jamiekulhanek]

A carlsen suckie high flowrate air filter.

[jamiekulhanek]

A carlsen suckie high flowrate air filter.

[Author]

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