Pan chassis?

[Admin]

OK I have a dremel tool and I was wondering if i could make a pan chassis for a bit char g, so I could do the dual battery mod, and have a battery on each side, and lower the CG. Do you think this would work? i would most likely make it out of lexan. Post your ideas/suggestions/flames here for me to read, and also, if anyone else would be interested in buying one of theese?

[Admin]

me

[Admin]

Sounds like a great idea if you can pull it off. I would love to see some picks after you’ve done it

[Admin]

Having been workign on a similar mod, (1/64 scale body mod) somewhere in this forum… I have a few suggestions. The steerign block is relatively easy o redesign, so is the radio/battery pan, but the motor block on the other hand is probably the most demanding part of the mod on accuracy alone. Too loose, and the gears chatter, too tight and you get bad speed. So far I’ve been chopping out the stock motor block in all the variants I’ve been making, even in the glider concept I was doing, and securign this to the chassis directly.

On the topic of materials, I personally wouldn’t suggst lucite- you’ll end up with a heavier body than the stock, and more brittle, and less costomizable. Check your local hobby and art stores for plastic resin molding kits that come with mixtures for silocone molds and resin compound. It won’t be anywhere near as strong as the plastic the cars come with but it’ll be probably your best bet unless you go to have it professionally molded.

Also, I haven’t tried the dual battery mod, but I’ve found the 2.2 motor on single charge plenty fast for scale speeds. at the speeds the videos of the dual battery cars seem to indicate it seems as though you’re approaching scale speeds of over 100-200 mph… which in terms of drivng in real life is difficult, let alone in mini seems to rather limit these cars to use as a “drag” or “secret weapon” car… much like swapping motor cores from a 3.0 with a 2.2… I’m not sure the point, but I do wonder if there’s been much thought to setting up some international competition rules.. weight minimums, rpm limits, battery voltages, etc.

Ok whater- check out my mod in the meantime.. it’s going slow but I might have a few decent options for getting magnesium or plastic redesigned bodies made pretty soon.

-dan

[Admin]

I agree with defor no lexan or lucite or plexiglass. At radioshack you can get pretty large(for bits) pieces of fiberglass. It has holes drilled in it too so its easy to cut and wil be pretty light.

Have either of you thought about making the chassis out of sheet metal? I used to race 1/24th scale slot cars. I got into buying 1/24th scale models and making custom chassis to fit the bodies. Basically I bought 2 chassis and hacked them and soldered them together. It worked really well.

The big problem is it wouldbe full custom not a chop and slop. But the bonus would be motor placement. Like slot cars you could solder the motor to the chassis. Then you would only have to worry about exact placement of the axle and Idler/stepdown(gear between axle and pinion) gear. Also I think the steering area would have to remain plastic, to not affect the magnetic action.

Defor I love your original idea of having chassis stamped or photoetched. If you have a good enough design, I would be very interested partnering to get that off the ground. Drop me an email if you would like to discuss this further: nosajklr@hotmail.com

[Admin]

nosaj- i follow you- currently im in negotiations with getting some quotes on custom molded laptop parts i might be starting a business designing, so if that works out i might just make the scale chassis molded rather than sheet, and go magnesium or plastic, whichever i can get a better deal on, since the same mold can be used for both.

-dan

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