Savage .25 info please

[takata]

If someone could please answer this question i was thinking of purchasing a HPI savage 25 (the newest one) i would like to know how easy are they to purchase in Oz as i have seen some people selling them on ebay but for rediculas prices and yet i have seen them advertised on american websites for as cheap as $385 USD(without radio gear) but they were not for sale outside of america DAMN IT !!!!!!. There must be a descent supplier of these beasts that will sell to australians but for a good price i saw a person selling there second hand one that had a massive amount of upgraded parts and he was only selling that for $700 about half a year ago. So if some one could help that would be Xcellent.
Takata.

Edited by – takata on 21 December 2004 18:30:39

[takata]

hello….. hello….. is there any body out there…….. obviously there is no such thing as cheap HPI savage oh well.

end of transmission………

Edited by – takata on 22 December 2004 23:12:12

[Batman]

Ahhh savages rock hard. I have one 😀
Anyway the problem is at the moment there isn’t a distributor for hpi (they’re changing or having problems or something) so getting cars/trucks and parts is hard. But there is a guy in canberra named mark who sells stacks of parts for savys, including kits.
http://www.mrcmodelcarparts.com.au
It is cheaper to get one from america, but not by hundreds.
Get one man they’re the best. 10ft of air easy.

[Aaron]

Yep – MRC (http://www.mrcmodelcarparts.com.au) is the way to go for HPI stuff inside Australia.

He’s genuinely a nice guy and has a great range in stock at good prices considering he’s running as a proper legit business (ie he pays Tax etc).

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[PandaBear]

Oz HPI distribution has moved over to Hobbies Australia. How that affects/improves LHS pricing and availability still remains to be seen.

Mark & Deb at MRC are great. They’ve managed to help out many HPI users who need parts urgently; pricing is very reasonable.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…. obviously there is no such thing as cheap HPI savage oh well.

yep, Savage excitement doesn’t come cheap.

Buying the car is the cheapest part of the exercise.

Then comes…
1) fuel
2) spareparts to replace worn parts
3) option parts!! for more bling
4) stronger engine for more power… then visit #2 more often
5) option parts!! to make it even stronger
6) new shells!
7) new wheels/tyres!

Am definitely impressed at how TOUGH the Savage is though. Its bloody invincible if you consider the abuse they get from regular bashings.

[takata]

i had lost hope on anybody replying to this post so i hadn’t visited it in ages but i should have more faith thanks for the reply and i will check out MRC my sister is in england at the moment and she is visiting the USA on her way back so i will have to decide on buying from OZ or getting her to get me one.

[PandaBear]

An HPI Savage is not the easiest thing to pack. 👿

The RTR S25 comes in a huge box which won’t fit into any regulation suitcase, ditto the built truck. The SS kitbox ain’t much smaller either and the bagged bits take more room than an assembled model.

:):smiley16:

[takata]

Pandabear i think option b is now out of the question i really don’t see my sister carring that huge box around with her without thinking DAVID YOU BASTARD !!!!!!!! so maybe the best option is to source from mrc, i did visit their website and were helpful but i didn’t know wether the price included the radio gear as i didn’t say that it didn’t and they had a (list of things you will need) and it wasn’t on there so i’m guessing you do get it. Do you know what type of radio gear you get with it ?

thanks takata

[PandaBear]

S25 “RTR” means its Ready-To-Run. It comes fully assembled & painted with radio installed. RTR has Rotostart system installed.

All you need extra is (1) fuel, (2) glowplug warmer and (3) 7.2V battery/charger for Rotostart. (oooh, and 12x AA batteries!)

HPI’s own-branded radio is a 3ch unit (so you can operate the optional Reverse module with a 3rd servo). It does the job.

[takata]

Sorry i wasn’t sure i had thought that ready to run meant that i was actually factory assembled for you rather than in kit form i didn’t think it was anything to do with the controller, whoops

i also saw the new traxxas revo RTR 4WD nitro monster which is supposed to be the shit and unfortunately i have an annoying habit of wanting the best for the cheapest amount of money do you now anything about this truck.

must go now i’m playing PSI OP’S on X-Box just stopped for a breather

Takata

[PandaBear]

Quote:

i also saw the new traxxas revo RTR 4WD nitro monster which is supposed to be the shit and unfortunately i have an annoying habit of wanting the best for the cheapest amount of money do you now anything about this truck.

Revo is the latest from Traxxas, who are famous for their T-Maxx.

Revo is built more for racing, its lower and smaller. Savage is a basher monster truck, trying to race it would be like driving a 4WD on a racetrack… Revo will handle better.

Revo also uses a SMALL BLOCK (12/15/18) engine, the Savage is a Big Block (21/25/28). There ain’t nothing to match cubic capacity when one talks about power.

I like Savage as its plain darned tough! You should see how we abuse these things… BMX tracks are its usual domain and the Savage boys certainly don’t hold back with the crazy jumping – higher, Higher!

Whereabouts are you from, T?

[takata]

From brissy so i’m sure there is no chance of anybody owning one up here. if i can ask you a question without being laughed at, if someone was to drive the car hard, but not kamakaze style, i know i said not to laugh! then how much would you be looking at basic maintenance repairs and fuel per month. Because i am sure that if you were to drive it normally then it would last a very long time or am i thinking about this all wrong is it a little bit higher next time and a little bit further next time and a little bit faster until whoops i know how it is.

i suppose i would go and find a local bike track or R/C track and go and talk to somebody about theres but i don’t want to be one of those TWATS that go up to people and go “wow thats so cool, yeah i’m going to own one soon, no really i am”.
so if you know anyone that is able to show me the capability of these beasts then that would be sweet. peace out:) what am i smileing for i still don’t own one yet:sad::angry:

[PandaBear]

Brisbane is quite populous with the Savages, probably 2nd only to Melbourne. 🙂

To check out where they hang out, you might want to try lurking http://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=33

As for durability, Savage is pretty tough and the S25 is a great “fun” truck. We abuse them like anything and seldom break much, even after some pretty spectacular incidents.

Usual newbie damage is from inability to land jumps neatly. If you land it rubber-side-up too often you’ll trash your shell then start wrecking everything else underneath it (rollbar, engine, chassis etc) – which will get expensive.

Use some common sense, don’t go jumping where your landing zone is solid concrete or tarmac!! These things weigh 5-6kg so there’s serious mass that’s bumming around.

But hey, can’t help stupidity. 👿

[PandaBear]

ps: 5kg = 11 lbs.

Try dropping an 11 pound BOWLING BALL onto your foot and see how much damage that does.

:blush:

[jamiekulhanek]

If your new to nitro, it’s a steep learning curve, there are many things you need to watch out for that do not apply to electric vehicles.

-stuff shaking loose (engine for instance, which usually eats the spur)

-Tuning engine, (easy when you know how, but can be quite challenging to newbies)

I suggest getting a temperature gauge, I find mine an indispensible tool to check if your engine is within temperature parameters, too cold or too hot can cause premature wear and possibly terminal engine failures.

Generally engines run at 220-240F, some run higher (270+) and until I got a temperature gauge I was running mine at 400F+ :blush::blush::blush:. Normal temp was 280-300F for my motor.

Often you will hear nitro being high maintenence….heh….I disagree. Nitro motors last far longer between rebuilds than their electric counterparts. If you do everything right, you shouldn’t have any problems with the motor.

If you treat the motor right, drain fuel after runs and run the motor dry, add after run, it should have a long service life, upto 10 gallons of fuel. Also It will be easier to start, sometimes if the piston im my motor is near TDC (Top Dead Centre), all it takes to start is just grab the pullstart…as in, not intentionally starting the engine :D.

Yes the hobby will cost lots, but you can make it cheaper, by properly taking care of the vehicle, making sure rx and tx packs are fully charged, driving sensibly, even making your own fuel…hey, I do, and instead of paying $20+ for 1L of 30%, it costs just $11.

Most of all, have fun, and watch out for WOT runnaways, usually you have no chance of catching the vehicle (hey, who can run 60+kmh?) before something much denser does :D:D…

[PandaBear]

Quote:

… watch out for WOT runnaways, usually you have no chance of catching the vehicle (hey, who can run 60+kmh?)

All Savages come with a throttle return spring! :p

Guess they knew about 11lbs bowling balls travelling at speed!! 😀

[takata]

yeah i imagine that these suckers would take up a lot of time in maintenance but i would like to think that i am mechanically minded so i shouldn’t have to much trouble and if i’m stuck obviously there are few people here that know what there talking about.

I think the next step is to see one in action!!!! :D:D

[PandaBear]

If you’re feckless and lazy on your maintenance then yeah, nitro cars will be pretty troublesome.

But if you’re regular in your maintenance checks and keep the car spotlessly clean, you can quickly spot any damage or loose screws that need attention.

There’s fellas bashing at Meakin Park SEQ and also on the Gold Coast I think.

[jamiekulhanek]

Cleaning is easy, If you have a decent air compressor, takes just a few minutes to have it pretty clean.

If you don’t spill fuel while filling etc. you shouldn’t have too much trouble cleaning.

Most nitro problems are inflicted by the driver, just keep it reasonably clean, check bolts every now and then, use loctite threadlock on screws threaded into metal (such as chassis to engine mount, and engine mount to engine). Use CA glue to secure screws threaded into plastic, these rarely come loose though. Run the engine DRY after every session of running, if you don’t you may flood the engine (takes yonks to get cleared and started, also damaging to glow plugs). After a day of running, ’tis advisable to put a few drops of after run oil in the glow plug hole and carburettor and spin the engine a few times. This prevents rusting/corrosion which stuffs motors. WD40 works great for this!

The rest of the time, you will be replacing broken parts (if you are unlucky) worn out parts (tyres, clutches, spur gears, bearings).

[PandaBear]

Savage exhaust exits downwards, so everything rear of the gearbox is covered with exhaust oil. Puffed air ain’t enough to clean oily dirt.

Mine gets a date with the bathtub for a good scrub. Then the compressor blows it dry.

Monster truck tyres never wear out. 🙂

Spurs & clutches – could be bad maintenance causing it premature wear too.

Bearings… ah, don’t care about them until they fall to pieces. No worrying about that last 1/100th of a second in lost laptime.

Rotostart is cool, no endless yanking.

[jamiekulhanek]

I had the same problem when I had a can muffler, now with the tuned pipe I have a shortened exhaust deflector, no mess anymore 😀

One of my rear hub bearings managed to ingest a piece of grass and spit a shield, with check local bearing supplier tomorrow and see if they stock my size.

I have heard many people saying that if you spray the whole vehicle with good ol’ WD40, and let it thoroughly dry, the dirt and grime will have a tough time sticking! Must try this!

Spurs, havent had problems since the engine shook itself loose and rips every tooth off :D.

Clutches…I’m on my 3rd one now! Stocker would overheat from just basic bashing and melt, 2nd was much better but curiosity killed the cat and I decided on a much better clutch.

I go through tyres too quickly for my liking, got some extra wheels coming for dedicated on road and off road tyres.

I have looked at those rotostarts, and wondered if they are worth it, I don’t mind yanking a cord, it only takes a few pulls…

[takata]

now now guys don’t confuse the situation i am still learning whats good and whats bad.

now i am probably starting WW3 over this question but there must be a definate advantage to the rotostart system, as this is why i am choosing the savage 25 over the ss because its main difference being one is a pull start and the other is the roto.

here we go guys plead your cases which is better?

GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D:D:D

[jamiekulhanek]

Listen to PandaBear, he owns a Savage and knows 2000 x as much ’bout it as I do, I’m just crapping on about nitro cars in general.

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