Threadlocker….help!

[jamiekulhanek]

Just wondering what is the best threadlocker??

i.e. the stongest???

[bithed]

…i really like the TAMIYA one…might not be strong enuff for your job though…how about industrial LOCTITE…i think its pink…Just your colour Jamie 🙂

[dgs73]

Loctite 222 Super Screw Lock… little red 10ml bottle, give it a whirl…:smiley2:

[dgs73]

beat me to it, Bithed. Thats exactly the one I meant.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Remember than anything but Tamiya will destroy plastic, and that includes fumes. Super glue is a plastic friendly alternative.

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeh, i use nutlock 223 loctite, could that be my problem? It is over a year old, does it go off? I must get some of this industrial crap, where do i get it? The problem is that my engine comes loose and strips the spur gear.

[jamiekulhanek]

I mean nutlock 243

[Jowlz]

bruce: maybe some epoxy? ive used jbweld in threads and had decent results. steel + epoxy = damn good hold

btw bruce i finally got around to reading about your mini-z. good stuff man. i wana see a vid of it.

[dgs73]

yes the stuff does go off Jamie… if you get a new tube, keep it in the fridge. (in a sealing bag or something obviously…)

[Nismospeed]

what about the small tube from the tigers jamie, its the blue locktite, i used when i had my nitro, very good stuff
$6 a tube i think

[PandaBear]

Most of Loctite’s goods are “anaerobic” (they cure when there’s no air). You can leave the bottle unsealed and they won’t go off, but they’ll cure only when they get clamped between 2 metals and there’s no air.

(Fridge/freezer is good only for superglue & silicone sealant – no water vapour keeps them fresh longer.)

Trouble is with loctite, even the ‘permanent’ ones, is that they RELEASE WITH HEAT.

Should be ok on the engine mounts (they shouldn’t get thaaaaat hot…. right?); but they don’t do much either. Tamiya’s blue glue is not anaerobic and stays pretty tacky in the hole.

Suspect you’re still using the kit stock screws?
You’re probably not tightening them enough.

I think the better solution is to go to your local fasteners supply and buy High-Tensile Caphead bolts of the right size. These allow you to crank up the torque (don’t overtighten) with less fear of stripping the head or breaking the shank.

Lookup your local “Coventry Fasteners” (previously called The Bolt Bloke).

[jamiekulhanek]

I have dremeled slots in the screws to use a flathead driver, and have cranked them down with every last bit of torque from my right arm. Anyway i will try anything if it will help, but what if i strip the threads on the engine?

[PandaBear]

That’s when you go “thank God for JB Weld”… :D:)

(JB Weld it, drill it then tap it)

[Jowlz]

Quote:

That’s when you go “thank Bruce for JB Weld”… :D:)

(JB Weld it, drill it then tap it)

see bruce knows whats up. for something like that get the original jbweld. it takes forever to dry but its worth the extra strength.

Edited by – Jowlz on 21 May 2004 14:30:32

[PandaBear]

If you’ve hacked the heads into flatheads… that could be causing it too. Slotted heads are very “flexy” compared to phillips. Best are cap heads & hex dome heads.

Hi-tensile steel is also “springyier” than mild steel. You need this springy property + friction to keep your screws tight.

btw forgot to add… sometimes the screws are too short.

Get the longest screw you can get in that size, thread it in and find out how deep the hole really is, then add on the thickness of the chassis. Go find a hi-tensile bolt of that length.

More thread ares = more friction and more area for threadlock to grab if you’re using that.

[jamiekulhanek]

As always, wills saves the day! Thanks man that all managed to penetrate my thick skull. Btw, wtf is a cap head screw?

[PandaBear]

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