will ball diff help much?

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    • #12248
      ill_race_ya
      Participant
      • Posts: 26

      with my iwaver, whenever i turn left the thing spins. but when i turn right it s steady. i think its got to do with the crappy diff?

    • #53375
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      *No you shut up* Just Jokes*
      Your not the only one and it happens to the real deal aswell…
      It could be a number of things but im just a mino in this big sea of Zs

      A. a ball dif will help… but not everything

      Send it to one of those melbourne techfreaks
      and your sure to have it running true again…

      Betty K, Maybe you can help this young iwaver owner since you own and know its insides better than the lines on the palm of you hand
      :D:D:smiley2:

    • #53380
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      A ball diff can/does help a bit. They’re also good to set up a bit ‘loose’ and use it as a primitive slipper clutch type arrangement to smooth power tot he ground delivery. Helps when learning to drive the ‘Z but sadly also wrecks the balls in the diff!

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #53385
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      lot’s of things could be wrong. i’ve had the same prob, the ball diff definately helps. just check, is the left turning circle tighter than the right? cf h plates can move around a little, check to see if the rear axle is crooked in relation to the chassis. it may even be in the steering, do the wheels turn more one way than the other? does the tierod poke out evenly on both sides when turned? i replaced my servo pot with a yeah racing one and my steering issues vanished! i measured the resistance of both;

      i waver 5.7k ohm
      yeah racing 5.07k ohm <(i fix now!:blush:)

      seems that .6k of an ohm made all the difference!:approve:

      in the end though, no matter what you do, a car with a side mounted spur gear on the right will always pull left under power due to friction:8ball:

      Edited by – betty.k on 10 July 2004 20:12:53

    • #53387
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      lol betty read wat u type 5.7k ohm and 5.07 ohm .. i dont think ther is a .6 ohm difference ther… even if they both had same multiplyer there is still no .6 ohm differnce

    • #53388
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      merc is correctumundo!!!!:blush: i forgot the k! just to clarify;

      i waver 5.7k ohm
      yeah racing 5.07K ohm

      man, maths is a REALLY bad place for a typo!!:blush::8ball:

    • #53389
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      i also think ur .6 ohm u mean .63k ohm

    • #53390
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      blow it out ya ahahahaha!!:clown::8ball:

    • #53391
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      ur just jealous of my typin skillz…. and my classic good looks… ahahaha

    • #53395
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      you twat……

    • #53403
      ill_race_ya
      Participant
      • Posts: 26

      thanx guys. also when i hold the wheel on the gear side the other wheel spins slow. and when i hold the oher wheel, the gear side wheel spins at normal rate. i think that has a bit to do with the problem

    • #53415
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      ARE YOU RUNNING BUSHINGS OR BB’S??? That should help target your problem….

    • #53488
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      also test how tight your rear wheel nuts are on… too tight and they interfere with the diff’s proper function… a thought:smiley2:

    • #53897
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      i had the exact same problem with my kyosho diff.

      thanks to dgs i got me a replacement stock one.

      i dont think it is wise to hold one wheel while your pushing the throttle.

      sounds like it is buggered. i need a few parts myself, we should hassle lismore hobby center for a bulk discount!

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