YARGH NOT AGAIN!

[twizm]

my steering is completely dead. was working fine for 5mins, then suddenly locked up, and now it wont steer at all. 🙁 this is my TOMY BCG too, so i want to get it fixed 🙁 🙁

[Aaron]

I had a customer with a problem like that… when we got it back (after sending out a replacement car) we found a metal shaving int he steering coils!

just bit enough to cause drama 🙁

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[ph2t]

dude, have a look in the steering assembly. A part might of come out and is now causing it to stick and not move.

ph2t.

[betty.k]

just in case it helps:8ball:

http://www.ausmicro.com/tech/bitcharg/front-end-disassembly-how-to/index.asp

[twizm]

i know how to fix it when it used to do this, it was the magnet, but thats been glued in now.

no need to worry now though, fixed it. the screw to the housing was on too tight, hindering movement.

PS: ph2t those springs are good but i lost the stiff ones (they were exactly how i wanted them too :angry:) they are identical to my carpet, so its tricky to find em.

im trying to make some new ones out of video tape springs, if not ill just buy some AFX springs

EDIT: the springs interfere with the magnet.. suggestions?

Edited by – twizm on 05 February 2004 00:17:08

[betty.k]

twiz, powdered graphite is the best lubricant for the front end (whole car for that matter! gears, axles, etc). sprinkle it on the moving parts, it’s not magnetically attractive, but it is electrically conductive. so don’t put it on the pcb or batt’s.
i know the feeling about the springs!:sad: save yourself the hassle, just contact ph2t for more. you know how much i rely on quality springs, and i don’t use anything else but his:smiley2::8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 05 February 2004 00:52:33

[twizm]

i got my springs made from videotape springs, and they are fairly stiff. still the problem of magnetically attractive which interferes with steering by not having the power to move at all.
its a pain because i need these as some extra absorption for cornering after coming off a boost.

PS: my dad gave me some interesting info when i was telling him about the springs used to stop the car rolling. he said that you probably wont stop them rolling because of the small wheel base, especially if you try cornering during or just after a long boost. although i find if you time it right, boosting out of the corner makes the corner tighter and faster.

[z-beam]

twizm, if you have a knuckle handy, take it to yourlocal locksmith and explain your springy needs, your sure to be suprized.

[twizm]

steering now works a-la normally with the springs on, god knows why. wouldnt work for hours then suddenly ‘click’ and full right lock is on.:)

these springs are great, if anyones interested i can explain how to make them. VERY simple.

QUESTION: i removed the stabi-sus bar in order to give the coils a mroe active role, with seemingly better results. this a good or bad idea performance wise?

[z-beam]

z’s oppinion: the standard bar is crap, but the soft and medium hopup ones are good with springs, for racing anyways.

also ive said it before and i’ll say it again: afx springs of different lengths can be wound together for variable/harder suspension.

[betty.k]

i remove the sway bar and let the springs do the job. the sway bar prevents the knuckles from achieving full travel. but that’s for my offroad bits, if i was driving on smooth surfaces i’d probably go for just a sway bar, maybe one of those hop up ones.
from what i’ve heard and seen the reason for the sway bar is this. as there’s no diff on the rear axle (soon baby, soon!), the sb comes into play. let’s say you’re turning left, the center of gravity shifts to the right. as the car leans on the right wheels, the sb is pushed up on that side, and down on the left exaggerating this lean. when the weight is on one rear wheel it turns better in the opposite direction, and the inner wheel is free to turn at the different speed. so basically you’re on 3 wheels when turning. (gawd i hope that made sense! just woke up:dead:):8ball:

[twizm]

yeah, i came to that conclusion. the outside wheel pushes the sway bar up on the outside, which in turn pushes down on the inside wheel.

does everyone have the problem of un-equal turning circles or is it just me? i put it down to when you turn onto the drive wheel, your turning circle is about 5cm wide, when you go off it, its much, much bigger (and a hell of a lot more stable too, i prefer the larger one).

anyway to combat this mighty foe?

[ph2t]

sometimes the internal travel of the magnet from left to centre and right to centre is not even. When you make it even most of the time the wheels are not straight, this is a major pain in the arse!

ph2t

[twizm]

how do i fix this?

also, how the hell does that little switch control the steering trim? when i set mine to straight for forward, it doesnt effect reverse at all. these things really need a servo for steering, make our lives ALOT easier

[z-beam]

with th shell removed hold the chassis by the front assembly making sure you stop one knuckle at a time. spin the secured front wheel and roughly take note of how long it spins freely, repeat for other front wheel.

if there is any difference between them or they both seem a little stiff they might have fluff stuck inside the wheel pin. needle nosed tweezers are the perfect tool for removing that enemy of streight driving and steering balance.

FLUFF,HAIR + DUST.
also twizm ive found the super bcg’s steering to be superior to standard. and the way our dollar is at the mo’ theyre cheaper than buyin a compact.

[betty.k]

that little peg under the steering is for adjusting the straight tracking. if it pulls to one side, move the peg towards that side til the car goes straight.

zip zap se’s have a servo for steering, maybe that’s what you’re after.:8ball:

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