Re: Planing to buy Mini Help plz

  • Posts: 400

sorry i got 5 names on this fourm and ben on this forurm for over year and 1/2. look at some of the ?’s you asked you are a dumb azz my friend.

lets face it not everyone is a noob like you and the x speed is a turd and a waste of money. and if you put a metal gear to a plastic gear that metal ger is just gonna strip the outher gear.

heres my setup hich

topcad front cover
powerline racing roll shock set with spring kit
miniz cf o plate set
miniz ball diff with ceramic balls
wide soft foams on the back
semi wide med. foams on the front
flatline racing unobtanium king pins
pn 4g motor mount
titanum screw set
pn alu. wheel nuts
miniz dry bearing set
alu. rear axle
megatech front sway bar
megatech alu. knuckles
megatech slider
pn drop spacers ta lower my front end
nml handwound for tec. tracks
flatline racing 7turn tripple for ovals
1100mha batt’s nicd
900mha nimh

if you go with foam tires i’ll show ya a little trick on tuneing the back with a o ring that improves handleing alot.

heres a list of what to buy in what order

sum it up in to some groupes
damage controle/ bling bling

first is power. i use sanyo 1100 mha cells in my car there hard to find and only come in nicd so if you use um you need a good peak charger so you dont distroy the cells.

also under this gold plated ter. are a good investment. i bought mine fro a company called flatline racing for $30usd it cuts down on resastance improveing power and run times.

next is handleing this would be whare plates and suspension settings come in.

theres alot of plate types i use a o plate with a roll shock set unless its a hard o plate then you dont need the roll shock set. also there some v w x and y plates i like the x and the w plates most but there hard to find and there kinda pricy.

as for the front suspension i like useing unobtanuim becouse there super smooth. you can use harden steel or polish the stock and they will work fine at a 1/4 of the coust of unobtanum.

also this would be whare you add + or – toein you can also add a sway bar kit to improve cornering.

traction is key to winning with high power motors or handwounds. for this you can try diff. tires and diff. set ups with widths of tires. i like foam tires better but you can get rubber tires from 18 most traction to 50 that have the worst traction i ever seen.

to add traction on cars with fets and handwounds you can either add weigh under the body over the motor mount or with some motormount you can use the exta screw hole to use small lead disk and screw them onto the back of the motor mount.

next is damage controle/bling bling. this would be replaceing ALL your plastic servo gears to alu. becouse if you replace 1 the alu. gear will just eat the plastic gears. this would also be replaceing your plastic parts with alu. and nothing sez bling bling like anodized alu. it also makes it to when you smack your car into a wall or a table it dosent hurt it much.

turbos are like a 2X2 fet stack or a 2X6 for some

they rance in price from $10-50usd the V@ is a really nice turbo if you dont like soldeing fets and it only coust about $17usd

but also if your crafty just get a 4aaa batt holder and trace the stock chassy and make a fiberglass or cf chassy just remember to seal the ends with superglue or CA. if your even more crafty make a pan style chassy and switch over to a normal reciver and a esc and just hook the stock kyosho servo to the reciver “pm me if you need help with that” i made 3 diff types and they dont handle like i like my car to so im working on a scaled down a adapted version of the orion t power chassy.

also if you want a cj chassy and your looking to buy 1 the only chassy worth buying is the pro z handles good and looks good guy up at my track has 1 the liquid mini z chassy is crap and its a fryed pcb wateing to happen.

oh yeah try useing lego tires they seem to work better than the stock z tires and they got a little more side wall and my z hulls butt over carpet