Planing to buy Mini Help plz

This topic has 16 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 20 years, 9 months ago by jamiekulhanek.

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- July 19, 2003 at 3:07 am #11160
  HiCh
  Participant
  Posts: 28
  i’m planing to get a mini-z and have been lookin around. there are is an unbelieve amount of parts avaiable out there…
  so now i’m wondering what parts do i need? i simply want it to go really fast and handles nicely so can somone give me like a list of all the best parts for this? (i dont care about the aluminim parts that just replaces plastic parts and doesnt improve the performance at all). i know so far to get a x-speed motor and a fet mod.
  can u fet and get a turbo??
- July 19, 2003 at 6:12 am #23261
  VR-4
  Participant
  Posts: 400
  well go to minizracer.com get a cf o plate roll shock set alu. motor mount with heat sink a turbo or 2X6 fets a nml hand wound or a pn 38turn. a set of dry ball berings a set of roll shock springs and front springs a ball diff with carbide or ceramic balls and you should be set
  
  i got every alu. part on my car some you might want becouse there stronger like a front top cover servo gears stering slider front knuckles.
  
  also for tires i use either foams on alu. rims or pn 18c rear 9.5mm flats with 20c rounds upfront
- July 19, 2003 at 3:13 pm #23264
  barto_85
  Participant
  Posts: 1321
  Check out my thread, I asked heaps of questions on z’s, hope it helps.
  http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=539&FORUM_ID=12&CAT_ID=4&Topic_Title=some+questions+on+mini+z%27s&Forum_Title=MiniZ+%26+Palm+Runner+%2D+Discussion
- July 19, 2003 at 4:54 pm #23266
  GT-ahh
  Participant
  Posts: 774
  its abit pointless gettting fets AND turbo, even tho the turbo would help fets are alot better than a turbo, and turbos cost abit.
  i recommend you get 2×6 fet stack (the most you can fit under the cover) the x-speed and bearings + a damper, toe in is aparantly helpfull to, so is a BB motor can..
  
  or you could just go the whole hog and buy the 18 (i think?) hop up kit from ebay….
- July 19, 2003 at 5:41 pm #23268
  Aaron
  Keymaster
  Posts: 2146
  My suggestion would be to buy a stock car, then add bearings, then a Ball Diff, rear dampers and the tor kit which does wonders for the stability of the car. But I would suggest starting out stock (or at most with just bearings). You learn more about the car and get better skills by doing it in stages 😉
  
  It will also help you develop ideas on how you’d like the car to be setup.
  
  A.
  
  --
  Site Owner Guy.
- July 19, 2003 at 5:44 pm #23269
  Aaron
  Keymaster
  Posts: 2146
  Ohhh good NiMh AAA batteries (650MaH or better) and a quick charger are a must buy – they’ll boost speed and run time and costs a lot!
  
  --
  Site Owner Guy.
- July 19, 2003 at 5:58 pm #23270
  GT-ahh
  Participant
  Posts: 774
  yeah 650mah+ batteries are a must, ive got 800s 😀
- July 21, 2003 at 2:52 pm #23324
  jamiekulhanek
  Participant
  Posts: 2563
  VR-4, hich is only a newbie to mini z, its just stupid suggesting a newbie to get all those power upgrades first.
  
  I agree with aaron, i think it is best to get parts in this order… NiMH batteries, ball bearings, ball diff, Carbon h plate/o plate (plastic ones break), better tyres.
  
  It is also advisable to buy an alloy servo gear, because it is quite easy to strip a plastic/delrin one.
  
  Once you can handle it, then its time to add a bit more power. The x speed motor is a step ip from stock, with good torque, speed and runtime.
  
  BTW Aaron, what is the TOR kit??
- July 21, 2003 at 3:52 pm #23332
  Aaron
  Keymaster
  Posts: 2146
  tor = toe 🙂 Changing the toe improves straight line stability – unfortunately it doesn’t improve my typing 😉
  
  A.
  
  --
  Site Owner Guy.
- July 21, 2003 at 4:28 pm #23333
  VR-4
  Participant
  Posts: 400
  sorry i got 5 names on this fourm and ben on this forurm for over year and 1/2. look at some of the ?’s you asked you are a dumb azz my friend.
  
  lets face it not everyone is a noob like you and the x speed is a turd and a waste of money. and if you put a metal gear to a plastic gear that metal ger is just gonna strip the outher gear.
  
  heres my setup hich
  
  topcad front cover
  powerline racing roll shock set with spring kit
  miniz racer.com cf o plate set
  miniz racer.com ball diff with ceramic balls
  wide soft foams on the back
  semi wide med. foams on the front
  flatline racing unobtanium king pins
  pn 4g motor mount
  titanum screw set
  pn alu. wheel nuts
  miniz racer.com dry bearing set
  alu. rear axle
  megatech front sway bar
  megatech alu. knuckles
  megatech slider
  pn drop spacers ta lower my front end
  nml handwound for tec. tracks
  flatline racing 7turn tripple for ovals
  1100mha batt’s nicd
  900mha nimh
  
  if you go with foam tires i’ll show ya a little trick on tuneing the back with a o ring that improves handleing alot.
  
  heres a list of what to buy in what order
  
  sum it up in to some groupes
  power
  handleing
  traction
  damage controle/ bling bling
  
  first is power. i use sanyo 1100 mha cells in my car there hard to find and only come in nicd so if you use um you need a good peak charger so you dont distroy the cells.
  
  also under this gold plated ter. are a good investment. i bought mine fro a company called flatline racing for $30usd it cuts down on resastance improveing power and run times.
  
  next is handleing this would be whare plates and suspension settings come in.
  
  theres alot of plate types i use a o plate with a roll shock set unless its a hard o plate then you dont need the roll shock set. also there some v w x and y plates i like the x and the w plates most but there hard to find and there kinda pricy.
  
  as for the front suspension i like useing unobtanuim becouse there super smooth. you can use harden steel or polish the stock and they will work fine at a 1/4 of the coust of unobtanum.
  
  also this would be whare you add + or – toein you can also add a sway bar kit to improve cornering.
  
  traction is key to winning with high power motors or handwounds. for this you can try diff. tires and diff. set ups with widths of tires. i like foam tires better but you can get rubber tires from 18 most traction to 50 that have the worst traction i ever seen.
  
  to add traction on cars with fets and handwounds you can either add weigh under the body over the motor mount or with some motormount you can use the exta screw hole to use small lead disk and screw them onto the back of the motor mount.
  
  next is damage controle/bling bling. this would be replaceing ALL your plastic servo gears to alu. becouse if you replace 1 the alu. gear will just eat the plastic gears. this would also be replaceing your plastic parts with alu. and nothing sez bling bling like anodized alu. it also makes it to when you smack your car into a wall or a table it dosent hurt it much.
  
  turbos are like a 2X2 fet stack or a 2X6 for some
  
  they rance in price from $10-50usd the V@ is a really nice turbo if you dont like soldeing fets and it only coust about $17usd
  
  but also if your crafty just get a 4aaa batt holder and trace the stock chassy and make a fiberglass or cf chassy just remember to seal the ends with superglue or CA. if your even more crafty make a pan style chassy and switch over to a normal reciver and a esc and just hook the stock kyosho servo to the reciver “pm me if you need help with that” i made 3 diff types and they dont handle like i like my car to so im working on a scaled down a adapted version of the orion t power chassy.
  
  also if you want a cj chassy and your looking to buy 1 the only chassy worth buying is the pro z handles good and looks good guy up at my track has 1 the liquid mini z chassy is crap and its a fryed pcb wateing to happen.
  
  oh yeah try useing lego tires they seem to work better than the stock z tires and they got a little more side wall and my z hulls butt over carpet
- July 21, 2003 at 5:35 pm #23335
  jamiekulhanek
  Participant
  Posts: 2563
  No im not a noobie ive been on this forum a lot longer than you LANCER_EVO.
  
  Handling comes first, speed second.
- July 21, 2003 at 10:17 pm #23350
  GT-ahh
  Participant
  Posts: 774
  it doesnt matter how fast your car is if you cant controll it…
- July 22, 2003 at 2:24 pm #23372
  jamiekulhanek
  Participant
  Posts: 2563
  EXACTLY GT-AHH, did you find out of the box it was fast enough, and it was only with practice you decided iot needed more power??
- July 22, 2003 at 5:20 pm #23379
  PandaBear
  Participant
  Posts: 1866
  Calm it, fellas.
  
  Keep it G-rated, there are Kiddies reading. :angry:
- July 22, 2003 at 6:17 pm #23380
  jamiekulhanek
  Participant
  Posts: 2563
  Quote:
  
  heres a list of what to buy in what order
  
  sum it up in to some groupes
  power
  handleing
  traction
  damage controle/ bling bling
  
  Any halfwit knows a car is usesless if it goes like a bat out of hell with no handling.
  
  Handling is the first thing you should think about, power second.
- July 23, 2003 at 1:40 pm #22405
  dgs73
  Participant
  Posts: 2179
  i agree with Jamie… despite not being a halfwit… What’s the point of having all that power if you have no control?? As for aluminium, well… I’ll keep my opinions to myself (“cough cough” extra weight “cough”)…
  Bearings and ball diff is where i started, HiCh. Start stock and go from there, unless you’ve got BIG open spaces to practice in…
- July 23, 2003 at 2:36 pm #22406
  jamiekulhanek
  Participant
  Posts: 2563
  I guarantee with too much power you will write off the car before you can even drive it.
  
  The stock motor, despite what people say, is a great motor to begin with, it really helps you perfect your driving lines, it doesnt spin as easily as more powerful motors, it has 45+ minutes of runtime, and it is a great help for setting the car up to handle well.
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