1/10 help

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    • #11725
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      ok so im thinking of possible maybe considering getting a 1/10, theres a club near me with regular races..

      anyhow I just need some more info before I make any wallet starving decisions..
      The club races electric touring and I am wondering about different models and what sort of motors they run…
      So yeah a basic run down of some models and prices would be nice…
      Im pretty much after a decent car that I can upgrade as I progress and wont need to trash it for a new chassis/esc later on..

      also what models/parts seem to be readily availible in australia…i dont want to have to order stuff from the US all the time…

    • #46167
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      alot of people at my track run tc3’s hpi pro 3’s. most people use 12-15 turns

      i only raced with 1 losi xxx-s in the past 3 months and it looks like a nice lil car

      i use a tamiya trf414mkll with a 11 turn phantom handwound but that motor is over kill.

      but really some things you gotta look at are do you like shaft or belt? i personal like belt drive but outher people say shaft drive is better

      but how i found my car is i went to a few tracks and asked guys if i could test there car becouse i was thinking of 1 and i drove the tamyia and i loved how it handles and it can pick up speed fast comeing out of the corners.

      but look at each cars specs weight suspension setup motor placement.

      butif you want a full bore race car then go for the tc3 at http://www.racinghardcore.com and buy 1 of there full opption tc3

    • #46168
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      i know the ta04 is inferioe to the 414m2 but thats what im considering atm, that or either a tc3…

    • #46170
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      well they have nice tc3 rtr kits that are race ready they got a 19 turn reedy mod. proline body rims and tires hitec linx radio. and the racer kit aka the rtr kit is faster than the team and factory team kit just read on it and it was by the guy who desighned the car.

      if you dont know people who can make custom parts go with the tc3 just about everyone makes parts for the car and there not all that much.

      if you do get the tc3 hese some things to buy with it. the large fin heat sink for the motor. threded shock set “really nice shocks i use them” and maybe the alu. drive shaft from hardcore racing becouse my phantom broke my stock shaft. and i think they just got a tc3 to do 110mph maybe a lil more i forgot but they used a 15 turn look on there website they posted it.

    • #46172
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      thanx, I guess it all comes down to how much money id want to spend.. electrics are expensive..

    • #46175
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Hmm… VR4 likes Tamiya now? 😯

      Quote:
      i know the ta04 is inferior to the 414m2 but thats what im considering atm, that or either a tc3…

      TA04 is 95% of the 414s… you’ll be lying if you seriously swear you can miss that extra 5%. :smiley2: Think of it as the “consumer” version of the 414, and you get the idea. It lacks absolutely nothing in speed.

      TA04 is a bit more user-friendly, and easier to get parts for. Besides, my usual sources tell me the 414 seems to have been discontinued – they haven’t received any new stocks of anything since last xmas. Hard to buy one new now, and I don’t know of too many Ozzie shops who even had them on the shelf. Also, the TRF (Tamiya Racing Factory team) guys who used to run 414s have this year moved on to the EvoIII.

      TA04 comes in several different levels too… from TA04S to TA04PRO, TA04R then now there’s the limited edition TA04TRF with the fancy SSG chassis set and all the fruit.

      Check your local club (talking of which, WHICH is it??).

      Local racing classes are usually
      -540 (usually limited to Tamiya tub cars running silver 540 only, gearing and options are very limited by the rules)
      -PRO 540 (any chassis, any gearing, running silver 540 only)
      -STOCK (using ROAR stock motors only)
      -MODIFIED (ahh, pretty much anything goes = big bux)
      -MINI (Tamiya FWD Mini Coopers only, with SportTuned motor)

      If this is your first go racing, best head for the 540 class first. You may need a tub TA04, which limits you to the TA04S and TA04R. Usually anything with a plate chassis (04PRO, 04TRF) is stuck into PRO 540 and the competition is much hotter there.

    • #46176
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      …what sort of motors they run…

      All motors are “540” sized (physically). 😀

      Generally speaking, there’s 3 levels:-

      1) 540 “silvercan” motors (27-turn) are what you get in a RC kit. They’re sealed unopenable and you can’t access the brushes, springs or timing.

      2) ROAR stock (27-turn, 24-deg timing)… these days they’re “Rebuildable” so you can legally take them apart to clean, but you can’t change the timing. Brushes & springs are open.

      3) Modifieds = anything that’s not stock, everything’s open. These usually have ballbearings for the shaft, and can be machine-wound or handwound (better balanced, more expensive).

      Some countries also have different versions of stock motors eg 23-turn, 19-turn etc etc… but we don’t run them here. They’re not really any faster if you know what you’re doing re gearing.

      Quote:
      also what models/parts seem to be readily availible in australia…i dont want to have to order stuff from the US all the time…

      Check your LHS.

      Popular TC makes in Oz are:-
      Tamiya TA04, TB01, TB Evo 1/2/3, 414 etc
      XRay T1, T1R
      Losi XXXS
      Associated TC3
      Yokomo (certain places)
      Schumacher Mission (might be a Melbourne thing)
      Corally C4.1, Assasin
      HPI Pro3 (dying popularity)

      Not all shops carry everything up there, but its a good chance they all carry some Tamiya stuff. Tamiya support is always good nationally.

      Melbourne is good for Schumacher stuff; I think Adelaide & Sydney have more Yokomo & Corally, maybe Xray too.

      Kyosho KX1 is pretty fancy but not sold/supported in Oz.

      HPI makes a decent car, but the backup support outside of US/Japan has been very disappointing. There are many guys burnt by it all, so they’ll find it hard to push their Pro4 if/when it comes out.

      But the car is not all. You’ll also need…
      -batteries!
      -ESC!
      -radiogear!
      -charger!
      -body/paint
      -tools

    • #46177
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      I guess itd be out of the question if i wanted to use my miniz TX?….

      these are the classes at my local track…

      Novice
      This is a newbie or beginners class, so if you are just learning to drive or have not raced before, piloting a race car around a track is quite different to speeding up and down your driveway scaring the cat!, car type is open and as is the motor you can use, although it is recommended that you use a stock motor (540), speed is not important!!, car setup and driver ability IS!, you will go faster as you improve the last two items.

      Stock
      The Stock Class restricts the type of motor to a 27 turn-24 degree ROAR approved stock or rebuildable stock motor. Any chassis or hop-ups can be used in this class (as long as it has a minimum weight of 1500g and must not exceed 195mm width). The shell should be a 4 door touring car with only one wing attached to it.

      This is the most popular class at the moment. Here is where you will start to learn about motor care and about the importance of setting up the car for optimum performance.

      Modified
      The Modified class is the fastest class in electrics. Its has the same chassis and shell restrictions as the Stock class but the motor is open to all winds as long as the magnets are not made out of cobalt or rare earth materials.
      This class is for the experience drivers as it involve precise control due to the speed that these cars are capable of. You’ll be considered as an expert and these are the people you should turn to for advice if your a newbie. A good spectacle to see them go.

      Edited by – GT-ahh on 09 July 2003 18:08:07

    • #46181
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      if your gonna race stock go for the tc3 those are fast as heck stock

    • #46187
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      the only difference between stock and mod is the motor… so id be racin both..

    • #46189
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      some have box stock what is whatever cam with your car you use or open stock what is just a stock motor.

      i like the tc3 becoue its a nice lay out and its the fasterst cornering car ever made. the ball diff is 1 of the smoothest diffs i ever felt

      theres the rtr tc3 racer kit tc3 team kit tc3 and the factory team kit. the factory team has all the blue bling bling alu. parts in the box but everyone i talked to told me ta get the racer becouse its faster.

      if this is your first 1/10 touring car i would go for the tc3

    • #46190
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      I guess itd be out of the question if i wanted to use my miniz TX?….

      Why? Nothing stopping you at all…

      MiniZ TX is manufactured by one of the long-time RC factories
      for Kyosho, its just a stock standard AM transmitter, nothing
      too fancy. It has dualrate (“reduce your steering” dial) but
      not ATV (adjusts the max throw on each channel). The Perfex is
      no better or no worse than a ‘basic’ pistol TX out there today.

      However… you’ll have to buy a RX and 2 servos (or 1 servo + ESC).
      You can’t recycle your MiniZ’s other onboard stuff to 1/10.

      This is where it gets interesting… when you discover that
      the RX is worth A$50 and the servos are like $30 each!!

      I’ll be a pal here and hint that… you can buy a whole new
      basic 2ch stick radio set for about A$95-110 (TX, RX + 2 S). 🙂

      Comparatively, a basic pistol 2ch set is anywhere $150-230.
      You get exactly the same RX & 2 standard servos with that too.
      So just buy the basic stick set, then use your Perfex TX!

    • #46191
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      these are the classes at my local track…
      Novice
      Stock
      Modified

      Ah yes… was gonna ask “where”, but I’ll bet that’s
      Northside @ Forestville Netball Courts, Forestville. :):)

      They seem to run a “Novice” class what other smaller clubs
      call “Race What ya Brung” class. Basically newcomers only,
      who if they win too consistently would be encouraged to go
      into one of the other regulated classes. :p

      As for what VIC runs, try VORTEC electric rules

    • #46192
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      the only difference between stock and mod is the motor… so id be racin both..

      Whoa, 1 step at a time, matey… 😀

      If its a well-run raceday, there’s usually very little
      time in-between races… 2 mins max. If you run both
      classes you will unlikely be able to swap motors in time.
      (Crazy racers who do run both usually run 2 cars.)

      Also, it is tradition that the race immediately after yours,
      you are expected to “marshall”… ie stand around the track and
      rescue crashed cars. Mod race usually comes straight after stock.

      Mod is also seen as an “ultimate” class. Its not just motors
      that change, but you’ll need the infrastructure to support that
      ultra-hot $160 mod motor … eg $500 ESC, $200 battery packs
      (used max only Once per day) charged on your $500 charger.
      As batteries might take 70-90mins to charge, mod guys usually
      have TWO of those chargers… and 1 pack of batts for each run.
      Mod motors also need regular maintenance on a $600 motor lathe,
      and chew thru brushes & springs regularly.

      You can get away with lesser stuff in Stock & Novice… 😀

      VIC have a “540” class as its quite amazing how fast these
      silvercan motors can really run, when you gear them right.
      Their laptimes aren’t much behind that of Stock.

    • #46196
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      cool thanx panda…still deciding weather or not i can afford and have the time to race..

    • #46204
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      You can buy an AIRTRONICS RV2PS radio system, (Pistol TX, Rx, 2 servos etc) for Around 50 USD.

      My brother has this set and he has never used it, i might be able to have a chat with him….Oh its 27mhz, so the mini z tx works with it, and personally i think the feel of the mini z tx is better than the airtronics one.

      Oh, and panda, what class9es0 do you race in???

    • #46206
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      get the new hitec aggresser its about $60uds with 2 servos

    • #46207
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      Oh, and panda, what class9es0 do you race in???

      Too darned hard to find time to race these days, and with winter chances are its raining… :dead: On the w/e managed to scrape a couple of spare hrs on Sat to visit the track with the latest red-n-blue-star’d acquisition, so that was good.

    • #46221
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      And just as a thought – one of the guys I work with *waves down the corridor towards RingoDingo HQ* has had great success running a low buck TL-01 in the local clubs here.

      He’s got the stock TL01 kit (Nissan 350Z) runs the speed tuned gear set and big pinion. Oh and a GM V4R ESC. Ball bearings ofcourse.

      And that’s it – he’s beating much ‘better’ chassis and having a ball on a limited budget.

      The point being that for his AU$200 plus radio gear investment he’s getting on very well. Yes he did buy the car kit for like AU$135

      I don’t race any of my chassis preferred to hack around at lunchtimes with the guys or on the beach etc.

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #46231
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      yeah after length consideration ive come to the conclusion that at this point in time i cannot afford a 1:10, any spare money I have goes straight to art supplies or my 1:1 (well whats left of it:sad:)…

    • #46232
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      i’ll be in aus in 4 weeks on vacation if ya want i’ll sell you my schumacher mission carbon or my tc3 for cheep i dont use um any more so i just wanna get a few bucks for um.

    • #46233
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      Dare we ask what happned tot he 1:1 GT-ahh?

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #46235
      GT-ahh
      Participant
      • Posts: 774

      well after a run in with a camry the front end needed to be replaced…. put kingswood panels on but then the engine decided she didnt like running on all 8 cylinders so she blew 3 rings…

      so im up for approx
      800 for an engine
      400 for GTS panels
      100 for a bumper
      150 for fluids
      200 for paint
      500 – for a dodgy blueslip + green + rego

      and this is doin all the work myself (paint/ engine installation)

    • #46252
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      That’s really gotta hurt bummer 🙁

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #46255
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      Also consider the TB-01, which optioned to TB EVO-3 spec (or you can get a EVO3 for $700), is the current ITC world champion. I’m definately getting one to replace my TC3 (which is already spoken for).

    • #46267
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      Also consider the TB-01, which optioned to TB EVO-3 spec (or you can get a EVO3 for $700), is the current ITC world champion. I’m definately getting one to replace my TC3 (which is already spoken for).

      Sorry… just a few corrections to clarify here… :p

      1) TB01 cannot be optioned up to become a EvoIII. The two share no common parts, so makes that impossible. Drivetrain is totally unique to e3; e3’s suspension is shared with TA04/414.

      2) EvoIII did NOT win the IFMAR ISTC in Aug/02. EvoIII only came out later than that… the World Champ used a TRF414M belt-drive car.

      3) In celebration, Tamiya sold a replica World Champs car called “TRF414M World Championship Replica”. There is also an updated chassis since then called the TRF414M2. All 414s are Tamiya’s “pro” level cars, and not usually found on the shelf of your local hobby shop.

      4) World Champ Surikarn Chadyasuriya has since started driving the EvoIII too, and after winning the Thai Champs and the Yamayama Cup this year… there is (only just shipping) the red “EvoIII Surikarn Edition”.

      I can’t stand all that red… :smiley16:

    • #46277
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      1. Um, the Evo/414 suspension does fit TB-01 (aka TB-01 Long arm), and the TB-EVO was an evolution of the TB-01, and each evo builds on that. Notice that the guide book makes on mention of the EVOI or II? That’s because it’s a TB-01. It’s true that none of the parts are the same, but that doesn’t mean they’re not compatible.

      2.I didn’t say it won the IFMAR ISTC. I said it won the ITC (International Touring Championship. Before IFMAR sanctioned a touring car class, the ITC was the highest ranked event for 1/10 touring. It’s still a world title (International after all), just not sanctioned by IFMAR.

      3. Yes, and my hobbyshops do have the pro cars. But I prefer to get mine online (690AUD), LHS will probably be asking 850 LOL.

      Red is a nice change from blue and purple. Especially if you have a Ferrari Body on top 😀

    • #46283
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563
      Quote:
      And just as a thought – one of the guys I work with *waves down the corridor towards RingoDingo HQ* has had great success running a low buck TL-01 in the local clubs here.

      He’s got the stock TL01 kit (Nissan 350Z) runs the speed tuned gear set and big pinion. Oh and a GM V4R ESC. Ball bearings ofcourse.

      And that’s it – he’s beating much ‘better’ chassis and having a ball on a limited budget.

      The point being that for his AU$200 plus radio gear investment he’s getting on very well. Yes he did buy the car kit for like AU$135

      I don’t race any of my chassis preferred to hack around at lunchtimes with the guys or on the beach etc.

      A.

      Thats cool! i really want to have a competitive car, but on a tight budget, (im only 16 for f***s sake!!!) I dont have a huge cash flow, and work kicked me off the roster for taking time off…..

    • #46295
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      If you’re on a budget, seriously look at a good used car, check ebay for bargains.

      Unfortunately, TL-01 (TT-01 and TA-02) go through gears all too quickly, especially if you don’t have at least a rear ball diff.

    • #46297
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      1. Um, the Evo/414 suspension does fit TB-01 (aka TB-01 Long arm), and the TB-EVO was an evolution of the TB-01, and each evo builds on that. Notice that the guide book makes on mention of the EVOI or II? That’s because it’s a TB-01. It’s true that none of the parts are the same, but that doesn’t mean they’re not compatible.

      Haha, if you’re willing to hack away at anything, there’s always a way to make things fit. Or use a Bigger Hammer!! 🙂

      Original TB Evo is based around the TGR gearboxes. How many parts left are TB01? EvoII had a few improvements but shares the same basics. But EvoIII is a total redesign.

      Stock TB01 runs pretty well, if built right.
      TA04 works well even straight out of the box, even the tub ones.
      Regular runner has been an 04PRO, hopped-up but mainly handling options only. Its a very adjustable chassis and you can set it up exactly how you like your car to handle.
      EvoIII… wow.

    • #46299
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      …Yes he did buy the car kit for like AU$135

      HobbyCo had a bargain special on those 6 mths ago.
      They went quick!!! … even I missed out… :dead:

    • #46300
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      Yup that’s where it came from…

      He got lucky…

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

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