1/10 nitro shopping advice..
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- This topic has 49 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 19 years, 5 months ago by peteWah.
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December 9, 2004 at 8:28 pm #12452
well.. i ve been out of r/c for a while now.. but i have money.. and i want sumthin big and fast and loud and dirty
so.. basically i want a RTR 1/10 nitro on-road car..
buuuuut i dont have any idea wat to look for in terms of r/c cars that dont come from R/S
so u guys should help me out!!
i been lookin on ebay and there are a bunch of different on-road nitro RTR s
if u guys can give me sum advice about wat to look for.. and wat to consider that would be nice
heres the ones i was lookin at:
Tamiya XBG focus
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5941169843&rd=1Duratrax street force GP
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5938959469&rd=1Tamiya XBG carrera
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5941340502&rd=1Associated nitro TC3
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44017&item=5940545684&rd=1Associated Nitro Tc3 plus
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44017&item=5940571322&rd=1HPI RS4 3evo
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44015&item=5941181333&rd=1Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44016&item=5940939466&rd=1Cen CT4S
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5941692844&rd=1HPI RS4 3SS
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44015&item=5939716320&rd=1i think thats it..
the Traxxas looks like the best deal to me.. but then again i dont really know about these things.. and plus its used.. and i kinda like new things
so yea.. discuss.. argue.. help me out..
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December 10, 2004 at 1:51 am #57459
What do you want it for??? Racing or stuffing around or both?
If you want to race i’d suggest a kit, yes it is dearer, but the quality of kit parts is much better than an RTR, also the parts like radio, servos etc. are pretty average. RTR engines are designed to be more economical and lower output than race engines.
Out of all those i’d say the AE Nitro TC3 Kit, a futaba 2pl radio and 2 servos, and something like an O.S. .12 CV-R or O.S. .12 TR. That would be a great race car and good also for running in the street.
Also the problem with RTR is you do not learn your car.Now if you want something just for “bashing” i’d look into something like the Duratrax Street Force 2, it has probably the biggest and most powerful engine in any RTR (3cc’s), which is made by the most famous motor company (O.S.)
It comes with stacks upon stacks of what would normally be considered aftermarket parts. -
December 10, 2004 at 2:02 am #57460
i definately just want it for messin around.. no one races in my city.. we only have 3 hobby shops and they all suck.. i mostly just want the fastest and most coolest (read adjustable) for the money..
as for learning my car.. i’d most likely be tearing it down and messing around with it ne ways.. but i’d prefer if i knew it worked b4 i started messing around.. and also.. i dont like painting.. and i dont like shopping.. lol thats why i like RTR.. i just like things to come set up and ready..
but i guess with sumwhere like Tower where u can get combo’s done easily it wouldnt be too bad..
Edited by – FreeLoader101 on 09 December 2004 21:03:55
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December 10, 2004 at 2:14 am #57461
holy wow.. that is a nice kit.. thanks for the tip..
any other advice from anyone?
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December 10, 2004 at 2:18 am #57462
Well again, for your application, the fastest, coolest, most jam-packed value for money car would have to be the duratrax street force 2, not the original off ebay you posted before.
It comes completely RTR;
-O.S. .18 (massive for 1/10) engine
-Futaba radio and servos, basic, but good.
-Proline tyres and wheels
-Full bearings
-Tuned pipe (gives upto 40% more power)
-2 speed tranny.The most important thing in R/C is buy what suits yourself, not what looks cool.
If you live in an area with not many flat surfaces, then an on-road is gonna be a drag. If you have an offroader and live in the city, same deal….
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December 10, 2004 at 2:26 am #57463
my area is pretty good.. i have alot of flat wide open streets that arent busy.. but i also have about a million things to launch off of if i had an offroad.. and i’d prolly destroy it the first day.. thats why i have my trust tyco super rebound.. nuthin i do can break that thing (read 2 story jump onto pavement)
can the street force 2 fit any 1/10 body? or do only some fit eachother.. cuz wat i’d really like to do is get a non lexan 1/10 body and modify it to fit the chassis.. cuz i really dont like lexan.. it reminds me too much of nascar with its cecal lights..
i wish they made 1/10 bodies like they make mini-z bodies.. all 3d ect..
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December 10, 2004 at 2:28 am #57464
also.. what kind of top speed would the street force get?
in the video it doesnt look that fast
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December 10, 2004 at 2:42 am #57465
The street force GP2 will hit 100km/h.
And lexan is the lightest, most durable material for car bodies. Most people are more interested in the performance of a car rather than intricate detail, if all you are worried about is looks, then you’re going for the wrong type of vehicle IMO.
As for other bodies on the SF2 who knows…
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December 10, 2004 at 2:49 am #57466
well i’m most worried about speed.. BUT i like things to look good when they’re going fast.. thats the difference between a toyota with a v8 shoehorned in and a diablo.. they’re both fast.. but one of them looks good while doing it..
and around here r/c gets no respect.. so i want sumthin that looks hott when its sitting on a shelf so i dont always hafta take it outside and show disbelievers wat it can do..
what other accessories should i look at buying for a RTR? would the street force come with a fuel filter and airfilter? or should i get those aswell?
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December 10, 2004 at 2:52 am #57467
http://64.224.183.129/videos/housejump.wmv
have a look at that….
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December 10, 2004 at 2:59 am #57468
The street force comes with an air filter, but grab some air filter oil too.
Also get a fuel filter, they help a bit.
A good clip on glow starter is a good investment too. The twist-n-lock ones are crap.
A glow plug wrench and some spare glowplugs (such as O.S.#8)
After that its just upgrades and spares you will need…
Various things like a cross
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December 10, 2004 at 4:15 am #57470
…good thread guys…Bithed is actually learning something…my god that hasnt happened in a while…lol…
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December 10, 2004 at 5:00 am #57471
go back to your quiet mundane electric cars, this is for dirty smelly nitro cars!!
Only kidding bithed :D:smiley2:
Freeloader, the duratrax RTR kits are exceedingly good value, you even get little touches such as fuel bottle etc, and even a FREE NEWBIE DVD !!
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December 10, 2004 at 12:15 pm #57472
Man that housejumping video is crazy. And it actually drove away afterwards!!
Thanks for posting this Freeloader (and Jamie :)), I have wondered the same things myself.
:DuABTW, that Duratrax car and radio ended up selling for under AU$200 !!
Edited by – micro_Amps on 10 December 2004 07:34:27
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December 10, 2004 at 3:35 pm #57478
i’d also like to thank jamie for the great advice.. i woulda never found that kit on my own..
my next question is.. hop ups!!
obviously i dont need much.. i mean it has a .18
but.. if i were to be interested in hop ups.. what should i look for? what kind of hop ups are there for nitro?
i dont specifically mean for the SF2.. i just mean in general terms of on-road nitro cars..
TIA
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December 10, 2004 at 3:51 pm #57479
yeah DTX are great.. the main thing about them is no hop ups nessicary. they come with most the essencials.. comes with tuned pipe .. comes with bearings.. comes with a 2speed.. comes with ball diffs.. comes with good proline tyres.. soo theres not much needed
most the hop ups are things like better clutches or better exausts or CVDs (i think it comes with them) so theres not much you need. unless oyu want to put in a nice new motor.. theres a difference bettwen thhis .18 and a good OS .18 but the DTX motor is designed by OS and is still a good motor -
December 10, 2004 at 4:08 pm #57481
wat size rims can fit this?
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December 10, 2004 at 4:15 pm #57482
standard touring rims.. so yes you can get sexy chrome ones and stuff
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December 10, 2004 at 4:17 pm #57483
haha i want a set of white or black ones to turn into drift (pvc tires)
and possibly a set of metal ones.. (yes i know they’re more weight.. lol.. COSMETICS!!)
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December 10, 2004 at 4:35 pm #57487
ok.. so say i had the money.. any reason why i shouldnt get a 1/8 rtr?
specifically:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDPC2&P=7??
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December 10, 2004 at 4:42 pm #57488
onroad 1:8 arent that quick.. so ive heard 1:5 are even slower.. and also look up prices of things like tyres for 1:8 its very expensive to maintain and run one . puchasing one isnt that expensive
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December 11, 2004 at 12:31 am #57504
1/10 is cheaper by far, as already said, theres pretty much no hopups for the Street Force 2, as it is already jam packed.
The only parts i’d suggest swapping is things like gear ratios (if the stock ratios don’t suit your taste), clutch shoes, and if the engine runs too hot in whatever climate you’re in, maybe cooling heads.
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December 11, 2004 at 12:38 am #57505
as per gear ratios.. do all 1/10 gears fit eachother? or do u hafta buy ones for the street force 2?
also how long would the RX and TX batteries last? should i get sum rechargables? or are alk’s the way to go?
and if yes to rechargables.. should i got for li-ion? or would nicads work fine?
thanks again for all the responses.. i also started a topic in ausRC
link:
http://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2197&PN=1
jamie.. i hope u dont mind the mention..
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December 11, 2004 at 1:08 am #57506
for the reciever pack, use 2100-2500mah NiMH AA’s they last umpteen times longer than alkalines.
A word of advice, solder the batteries together with wires, if you crash or something causes a bad connection with the batteries the car can go off at full throttle on it’s own, this mod will almost eliminate that problem.
Generally nitro cars use the same pitch gearing, BUT the clutch which the pinions are connected to are different from brand to brand. I think duratrax sells the separate pinions.
I really doubt you will need to change ratios…
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December 11, 2004 at 1:15 am #57508
lol ok cool.. just trying to learn this stuff now so i dont hafta bug ppl in the future..
i’ve also read about taping the batteries together/into the holder (depending on chassis model)
would this work as well? cuz i REALLY hate soldering batteries.. so many bad experiences that i would rather not get into.. lol
oh yea when i said li-ion i meant nihm.. theres too many types of batteries now for me to keep them all strait..
stupid technology.. i should just get a 1/10th scale alternator to run my RX.. lol
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December 11, 2004 at 1:17 am #57509
Yeah you can tape them, but i’ve still broken a taped battery box and it lost connection…
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December 11, 2004 at 10:48 pm #57516
i think i’ve decided on the 4-tec combo at tower hobbies
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0161p?&I=LZ0187**
the other choice was the TC3 RTR
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZJ4&P=ML
the non combo 4-tec and the tc3 cost the same.. so wat do u guys think?
ausRC link:
http://ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2197&PN=1 -
December 11, 2004 at 11:15 pm #57517
Would have to be the ‘RTR plus’ if you went for the T3C being 2 speed with a larger motor. I cant really help on choices as my knowledge on these could be printed on the head of a pin.
Damn nice though.:)uA
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December 11, 2004 at 11:17 pm #57518
yea the tc3 i’m talking about is the plus with the .15 and the 2 speed stock..
also the tc3 comes with drive shaft not belts.. is driveshaft alot better than beltdrive?
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December 11, 2004 at 11:21 pm #57519
iunno.. after reading about the TC3.. now i kinda want that one.. but at the same time i’m mostly goona drift.. so the added handling cant be that important when ur spinning PVC.. and the 2.5 engine of the 4-tec has better torque.. so that will help..
augh! i’ll never decide.. i hate having money.. by the time i choose sumthin i want sumthin else (my life is so hard eh? lmao..)
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December 15, 2004 at 3:37 am #57547
why not get a kyosho?
FW-05T is a good package. -
December 15, 2004 at 5:33 am #57549
freeloader, the dtx street force 2 is a HUGE amount better than the crappy 4-tec….
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December 15, 2004 at 2:45 pm #57552
thx for all the replies.. but in the end i went with the NTC3 + package from Tower.. it seemed best suited for all my needs (shaft drive, adjustable camber ect, lots of parts available, parts arent too expensive for basic replacement.. but lots of hopups too)
i ordered it on sunday so it should be here soon.. i hope 🙂
one of the reasons i chose that is becuz.. if u just look at the basic chassis.. dont think about engine or ne thing.. its the best design.. i want to use it mostly for drift.. thats why i dont need the high top speed of the SF2 and the 4tec.. and a new OS .18 is only like $130
so in the end i chose it becuz it will suit my application fine stock.. but will also be a good chassis when i get bored and have too much money..
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December 15, 2004 at 2:54 pm #57553
also.. does ne one know of any light kits like “the ultimate light kit” for 1/10s? like with signals, ect..
i posted in the BCG forum about it.. but then i realized that light kit was from over 2 years ago (wow.. last time i was posting regularly on these forums he hadnt even started selling it yet)
but ne ways.. i’d really be interested in one for 1/10th scale.. but i dont really know where to start.. i think the best way would be for it to have a seperate powersource.. and have the servo leads act to operate relays (when u turn right it clicks the relay on and allows the batteries power to run thru the relay) and then one of those standard timer chips to make the turn signals blink when the servo is turned wich ever direction.. ect ect..
basicalluy in my ideal design it would have a wire that connected in between the servo and the RX.. very similar to a failsafe.. with a nother wire hooked to the throttle servo to operate the brake lights getting brighter (also i dunno how to make the lights go brighter.. maybe a normally open relay that turns off a resistor when power is applied? or a voltage switcher that switches the power source when applied?)
ne ways.. lol
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December 15, 2004 at 4:13 pm #57555
And your going to use this for drifting, I can see some members would think you to be stupid as do i for using pvc on a NTC3 or any gas car for that matter.
Nice car BUT not a drift car in my opinion and you are going to hate the cleaning of this thing no end even more knowing that its going to have a coating of pvc flake that is going to get just about anywhere you can emagine…thats my 2 cents, But What would i know, Good luck :smiley2:
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December 15, 2004 at 4:19 pm #57556
nitro drifting looks cooler and sounds cooler.. i cbf with electrics and batteries ne more..
as for cleaning.. a good layer of WD-40 ought to do it
that stuff cleans ne thing..
if u goto rcdrift.com.. most of the nitro difters are using TC3’s or RS4’s so.. it cant be that bad..
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December 15, 2004 at 4:50 pm #57557
Its a chore, BTW the WD in WD-40 stands for Water dispersal, Not PVC remover
You need PVC dispersal 2000, just jokes mate…
You are going to spend more time cleaning than racing/drifting
My point is not the car, You will have fun im sure, Its the extra work you will have because its going to be used for drifting using pvc…
But Anyways have fun with it :smiley2: -
December 15, 2004 at 4:57 pm #57558
You need a air compressor mate as much as it wont clean everything (thats my opinion) It will come in handy Not WD.
Try real drift wheels :smiley2: -
December 15, 2004 at 5:01 pm #57559
lol.. i can always just not clean it.. and the layer of grime/oil/powdered pvc will create sumthin very similar to rhino liner.. then i’ll never need to buy new parts.. hahaha..
ne ways.. like i said.. i chose that chassis cuz it was the best overall.. not the best for one thing.. that means that if i get bored of drift (or i just plain suck at it and dont wanna practice) i can just do sumthin else with it..
as for an air compresser.. i dont mind cleaning by hand..
as for drift tires.. they dont work as good as pvc.. they’re about 10 times as expensive.. and they wear out 10 times as fast..
if pvc/abs is so bad.. then i’ll just switch to electrical tape/duct tape..
no way i’m spendin money on sum over priced wheels..
oh yea should i buy a yokomo drift chassis too? yea rite..
lol ne ways..
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December 15, 2004 at 5:31 pm #57560
LOL, no no no and we will leave our differences at that :smiley2:
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December 15, 2004 at 8:42 pm #57566
petewah, WD-40 is a very good trick!, spray your whole chassis down with it, let it dry overnight and dirt will have a very hard time holding on…
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December 15, 2004 at 10:15 pm #57571
told u 😛
lol plus it will be generally lubed (but u’ll want to reapply lube/grease in the essential parts bcuz wd40 will strip them of they’re oils.. and the lubrication it leaves behind wont be sufficient..
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December 16, 2004 at 3:40 am #57573
ARRR NOOOO nitro drift is all bad.. you need AWD for good controled drifting.. also constant high reving is bad for your motor and unless you have lots of nitro experience you gonna kill ur acr pretty quickly.. acctually nitro anything is very hard
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December 16, 2004 at 2:21 pm #57574
everyone on RC drift said nitro drifting is fine for begginers if ur usin PVC.. nitro drifting is only hard on the engine if ur on tires.. it can be bad on PVC.. but only if ur a rev happy idiot.. most ppl on there say they never even need to get much past half throttle for nice drifts..
and my nitro is AWD.. i’m pretty sure all nitro onroads are unless u change them.. or they’re cheapo ones..
ACR?
ne ways.. i got into it cuz it was hard.. if it was easy it wouldnt be fun.. thats why i lost interest in BCG.. the only challenging thing was mods.. otherwise they were boring..
i barely ever drove mine at all.. they’re still just sitting in various pieces on the workbench..
and for drifting on pvc u hardly high rev ur engine at all.. u get ur car goin at a good speed by slowly moving the revs up.. then u make a turn n slide.. only time u rev it high is if u want to lengthen ur drift..
once u have a drift goin u only need to maintain its speed.. u dont have to power it cuz it wont be beneficial..
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December 16, 2004 at 2:25 pm #57575
why is nitro better then electric? cuz when ur nitro car runs outta fuel u just whip out ur bottle n re-fill it.. no 3 hour down time while ur stupid batteries recharge..
ne ways i have money to replace parts if and when i break them.. the only annoying thing will be the down time.. and i’d prolly break more parts with electric cuz i would sh*tbox it all over the place
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December 16, 2004 at 3:43 pm #57576
well it would take a idiot to charge batterys in 3 hours.. get 3 2400 packs and a decent delta pack and wou will be able to have a pack chargeing while running one. etc.. no problem also a TL01 is touger than most nitros. its not hadr to kill a nitro onroad
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December 16, 2004 at 4:00 pm #57577
wrecking and rebuilding is half the fun..
i have a tyco super rebound for when i want sumthin in destructable.. that thing can survive ne thing..
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December 17, 2004 at 6:13 am #57586Quote:petewah, WD-40 is a very good trick!, spray your whole chassis down with it, let it dry overnight and dirt will have a very hard time holding on…
It wont be rid of the pvc though > Is what im saying< did i say there was anything wrong with WD…
ENUFF SAID
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December 17, 2004 at 3:34 pm #57589
have u tried it??
u never truly know until u try..
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December 17, 2004 at 4:50 pm #57590
I dont need to, and wont use it for such a application !:smiley2:
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