1/87 scale madness!
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Bought a couple of the Super Grand 1/87 scale rc”s off toyeast. These are the clones of the doyusha hyper 1/87 rc. See here: http://www.toyeast.com/v3/catproductlist.asp?cat_id=1114&clvl=4
Straight off the bat, they”re small! And I mean, real small. Makes my mr02 mini-z look like a freakin 1/10 scale rig.
From left to right: Mini-z, Epoch, Super BitCharG, Hyper 1/87. Damn!
Out of the box I gotta say it”s quite fun. It”s as fast as a 1.0 BitCharG, possibly a 1.6. The steering is motorised using a paddle that hits the steering rod and makes it move left or right. So the steering isn”t propo but it”s better than a bloody magnet setup!
For me, this car is truely a table top racer. The charge isn”t the longest which sorta bugs me, but I”m working on that! lol….. I”m getting about 1.5 – 2 minutes runtime with my two hyper”s that I”ve got.
Steering circle is a bit large too, but that can be fixed!
It”s when you pull the shell off that it gets interesting.
First off, the battery is BLOODY SMALL! In the pic below you can see that the Hyper”s battery is smaller than a 1/4AAA battery.
From left to right: Hyper 1/87, 1/4 AAA (eg: zzmt batts), 1/3 AAA (BCG/ZZ batts, nb: label is missprint, ignore!!)
Using my ICE intellipeak charger I”m getting approx 20mA into the Hyper”s battery, on average. Otherwise there are no markings to indicate it”s capacity so I may be wrong.
Unlike Bit”s and ZipZaps, the front wheels come off the steering knuckles quite easily. So it”s good that you can maintain it. Cause I”ll tell you now, you WILL get hair in those wheels!
In the pic below, I”ve removed the top part of the steering brace. Here you can see the steering motor (that”s approx 1/2 the size of a regular Bcg/ZZ motor!) and how it uses the ‘paddle’ gear to turn the wheels. Just like Bits and Zips, the centre return spring can be modded. I”ve added an extra spring from my 1/64 parts box with no problems. This is why the motorised steering is great. It”s so strong (in comparison to magnet steering) that you can add extra springs to help keep it centred yet still have no issues with the power needed to turn the wheels.
The PCB is a two layered approach to be able to address the issue of space. Note ZZ, ZZSE, BCG & clone PCB”s are all too wide to fit in this chassis, so you can forget about a mod along those lines. To get to the chassis you need to unsolder a few wires.
In the picture below you can see the general chassis layout. The drive motor is the same diameter as a Bit/ZZ motor but it”s approx 3mm shorter in length. Also the gear pitch is smaller than 1/64 scale stuff which is a bugger since that closes the door to a readily available set of gears. Unless you replace all three of course! Dunno about that though.
So I had to put a faster motor in. It”s a 34k Xtrek motor. Performance wise it”s on par with the ZZ NOS motor. I had to butcher the mounting braket to get this bugger to fit! But fit in the end it did!
I also added a small antenna, the stock antenna is looped around internally and makes for incredibly crappy range! A small, 8 cm piece of enamled wire gave me a distance of about 9m indoors, that”s great!
I got sick of the crappy runtime and put a 80mAh 1/4AAA battery in there. I will have to butcher the shell to fit AND there may be an issue now with not enough weight at the front end to corner tightly, but hey, I”m getting there!
Beefy!
Here”s a couple of comparison pics against a stock Hyper 1/87 chassis.
So all in all, I”m pretty impressed with this car. For the size it is you can”t go wrong. Also with a price of $14USD you can”t argue with that!
Future things on my modding list are:
1) Tighter steering, can be done with hacking the top steering plate which restricts movement.
2) Hack a shell to fit.
3) Install a power switch (God knows where!)
4) Mosfet mod it! Yes I believe it can be done
More to come!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 01 August 2005 10:38:40
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