4 channel booster controller

i noticed the same thing… still havent found a way to boost the range of the booster! however, maybe i should not be complaining – i am getting a range of 8-10ft.

For some reason, they switch the controls in the OEM cars. If you REALLY want to use the OEM cars with the 4-band controller, you need to swap two wires on the board in the car. I don’t know if they are labeled the same as the real Bits, but if they are, you want to swap the ones labeled “F” and “B”. If they are different, then just don’t swap the red, black, or two hair-like wires. The other two will be the forward/reverse control wires.

Of course, I’d just use the controller that came with the car since you get better range with it anyway.

Yeah I tried my friends Tomy Bit and it is as it should be its just the OEM Bits that have the F and B reversed. If I were to swap F and B over on the board of my OEM Bits, does that mean that on the OEM controllers, forward and back would be swapped too?

Yes. If you then wanted to use your OEM controller on the modified OEM bits, you’ll have to open the OEM controller and do a similar swap with the forward/back buttons. Someone has done this before and had pictures on how to do the swap, but I forget who (it was a while ago).

I have 5 different non-Tomy variants now, and they all use different Rx boards, but all can be rewired to accept signals from normal Tomy Tx. I’d personally stay away from modifying the oem controllers to send the correct signals If you’re going to use Tomy controllers primarily- the process involves mounting subminiature pressre switches where the buttons normally contact and bypassing the existing contacts. If you have the patience, a better solution would be to cut the traces and either rewire or use a trace pen to reverse the wiring.

As it is, I find both the 4-band and the stock tomy Tx are better than most OEM’s.

-dan