About to get an F1

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    • #12894
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      I have had several heavily modded micro rc’s in the past and I am now looking at an F1. I have not yet seen the chassis in person and I know that there is very little space under the shell but I am going to install a Spider in it no matter what it takes. Basically I have a few idea’s but want to know what other people have done or think would work on there F1. My first idea was to carve out part of the driver like I have seen done to fit a lap counter under the shell I am almost 100% sure that can work if I can run the wires. My second thought is closer to the motor but I have no clue how much space is there. I am planning on a aluminum motor mount because I want as much cooling as I can get to the Atomic Chili motor I am installing. Any other ideas?

    • #61161
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      There is some clearance there between the chassis and body (about 6mm) on the left and right sides of the driver. Perhaps you could put your spider there and put some weight on the opposing side to equalise the balance. There is some room closer to the motor however, I think it would interfere/bind the rear suspension.

      Mini-z F1 is awesome as they don’t need a lot of hop ups to handle well. Just keep in mind that the parts are difficult to source and are more expensive than the standard mini-z gear.

      Here are a couple of web sites where you can get mini-z f1…

      http://www.egrracing.com for mini-z f1 readyset
      http://www.rcmini-z.com for kyosho f1 parts

    • #61168
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      Thanks for the information. The new 4.0 should be easy to make room for. I was tempted to mount it almost into the air scoop on the body but I am fairly sure that is the best and one of the only sources of air flow for the motor and I want to keep it ventilated because the Atomic Chili gets HOT. Almost melted an evo xmod motor holder. Still not sure if I am going to use the aaa lithium batteries wired into 2s2p or not. I have them sitting around doing nothing but they just might make an uncontrollable F1 mated w/ the Chili and spider. Opinions? I drive in a big open wood floor gymnasium traction can be an issue but area isn’t too bad. Actually my ma-010 seemed a little slow in that big of an area and it had fully hopped up drive train except stock motor w/ neo magnets w/ high speed gear set.

    • #61067
      CowboySiR03
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Hey!

      I was asked to chime in about this topic…I’ve added turbos to all the Z line-ups and the F1 is the tightest space available.

      I went about in this position with a Nelly.

      nellywhore2001.jpg

      It fits decently and still allows for suspension movement but it can be done better.

      Instead of using the shell I have, both the F2005 and F248(newer bodies) have much more space under the air intake cowling area near the back. If I was to do it again I would remove the driver from the shell and mount it right where the cockpit sits.

      As for performance, it’s way too much for everyday use! The standard 3010 fets are excellent combined with an Atomic F1 motor for typical RCP track configurations but if you have a huge layout or carpet track then the Nelly or Spider would a great choice. Even with the new v4 being smaller you could definitely get some great powerplant running on your F1.

      As for the aaa lithiums…don’t do it! Most lithiums at this size have really poor discharge characteristics compared to quality Ni-MH aaa’s and the glitching you’d get on your F1 board from the 7.4 volt source would make the car near impossible to control.

      Been there and done that…I’ll stay at 4.8 volts for good.

    • #61070
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      Thanks for the 2 cents cowboy! Happy you gots my pm mate.

      cheers,

      ph2t.

    • #61072
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      Thanks for the info. I figure its going to be too fast for me but I just want to see how fast I can make one go and tone it down from there lol. If the nelly fits there the new spider should be easy to fit I think.

    • #60550
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      I have a new question. Why is it I can only find 2.4ghz conversion kits for the ma-010 and mr-02. It doesn’t seem to be any larger then a regular board will it not fit in an f1? does the f1 use a different servo? Just curious I probably wont be going the 2.4ghz route but it was an interesting idea.

    • #60551
      Renton
      Participant
      • Posts: 117

      Is it worth going the 2.4ghz conversion?

      what benefits am i going to see other than having no frequency worries?

    • #60552
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088
      Quote:
      Why is it I can only find 2.4ghz conversion kits for the ma-010 and mr-02. It doesn’t seem to be any larger then a regular board will it not fit in an f1? does the f1 use a different servo?

      The ASF PCB is smaller, because of this there a new PCB Cover plates. the awd and 02 are the most popular models, hence why the conversino kits come in these two variants. F1 is an OLD chassis, been around for a while. Never kit the popularity of the 02/awd.

      Quote:
      Is it worth going the 2.4ghz conversion?
      what benefits am i going to see other than having no frequency worries?

      The fets on the newer boards at the 3010’s. They can take more and are the best stock msofet performers yet. The new TX is visual death but is meant to be lighter and more responsive.

    • #61665
      CowboySiR03
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      I might consider holding off on 2.4GHz until they get the module for higher grade contorllers in place…I’ve heard of people having delay issues in throttle response and I wonder if the controller is the problem.:huh:

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