alloy FRONT damper mount is finally available

Home Forums Mini-Z, Mini-X, X-Mods and other Mini-Scale Mini-Z, Mini-X, X-Mods – Discussion alloy FRONT damper mount is finally available

Viewing 21 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #12180
      Avatar photoph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      and it s about bloody time, I have gone through 3 already….

      3racing_mzm006.jpg

      it ain t cheap, $16.90USD. someone s sure gonna make their money on this lil baby….

      http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_512&products_id=8290

      (happy)ph2t.

    • #52014
      Avatar photoTallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      no wonder toyeast was sellin standard dampners for 3 bucks each!

      might get that baby when its a bit cheaper or i have broken all my dampners which ever comes first

    • #52021
      Avatar photodgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      when they come out in silver i’ll get the front & rear… yeah, they’re abit pricey eh?

    • #52026
      Avatar photoph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      well, I bought the front and rear on ebay a few days ago, and then this pops up at rcmart. they were a few $$ cheaper but still, at the end of the day it’s costing me $33USD inc shipping to get ’em here.

    • #52058
      Avatar photooldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      Build your own 😀

    • #52101
      Avatar photodgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      ever run a CAD program OTP? What you speak of is not impossible (unless you’ve never done it before…) but the ground work needed to pump em out is huge. Lets just say I understand why these aluminium parts are so expensive…

    • #52116
      Avatar photooldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      Yes, but I’ve reverted back to pencil and paper. It’s a lot quicker for me since I don’t have any CAM machinery anyway.

      My OL chassis is about 1/4 done. It’s about an inch longer than stock for this project:

      http://www.wegotu.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1604&forum_id=20

      Once that’s done there are MOL, 4wd OL, and possibly a bus chassis to build.

      Although I have to say, I don’t think $17 is all that much for any alloy damper mount (not cheap, but not unreasonable either). See how far US$17 gets you in an Aussie hobby shop.

    • #52119
      Avatar photodgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      beats forking out again and again for plastic parts. Once alloy is in, end of breakage. There, anyway…

    • #52122
      Avatar photooldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      I think some ausmicro.com’ers will differ 😯

    • #52126
      Avatar photoTallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      hey normal plastic shock stay sets are cheeeep now days.

      but alloy looks cool.

    • #52127
      Avatar photodgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      like I said… it will decrease/stop breakage thee, but will no doubt create a new weak spot…
      think I prefer the stock now that I think of it…

    • #52135
      Avatar photoph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      my churning rate sofar:

      new broken front damper mounts: 3
      re-broken front mounts(after glued): 6-7 times

      got alloy front damper mount (OL bastard son version).

      Now….

      new busted front servo case: 3
      re-busted front servo case: 5 times

      now getting OL alloy servo case, the top half will fit….. 🙂

      this is the general casualty list:

      busted oil shock shaft
      busted front right steering knuckle
      severly cracked rear rims
      front rims cracked
      broken servo wires, replaced with own, better now
      fried 3 seperate FET stacks
      fried stock FETS
      and I won’t even talk about the shell……

      ph2t.

    • #52137
      Avatar photomerc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      oh yeh not a bad list…. heheheh my x mod has run only for a total of 8 minuets and has destroyed:

      3 frount knuckles
      3 set of fetts (one stock. 2 single stack)
      about 8 wheel nuts.
      one set of brushes (were abit pre worn)
      2 shocks
      5 sets of inductors (bloddy antenar kept coming unscrewed and hiting misc parts (either battery or pcb)

      not bad for 8 minuets heehehehehe

    • #52139
      Avatar photoTim
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      How do you drive merc blue? demolation derby or something?
      How do you smash so many things in 8minutes?
      Looks like another L-plater,LOL!

    • #52141
      Avatar photojamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      My z: 1st servo gear x5, plastic h plate x1, carbon fibre x2, 6×2 fet stack and tamiya plasma dash, front bulkhead, bulkhead mount, shell x2, stock diff spur, 2 tyre sets, 3 wheelnut sets…Ah what a waste

    • #52147
      Avatar photomerc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      i drive like a grandma.. but when i do let it go and it crashes its ALL over

    • #52163
      Avatar photobithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …im sure that piece will do the job but it looks like crap 🙁 I REALLY need to some work on the world-saving M-PLATE 😉

    • #52172
      Avatar photonovin
      Participant
      • Posts: 67

      what’s an M-Plate? > O-Plate?

      novin

    • #52173
      Avatar photoTim
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      jamie what did you do to your PD and your FETS?

    • #52184
      Avatar photodgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      Stu/ Nov; O plates are an alternative to H plates, a lot stiffer, hence less likely to snap. M plate? Well, i’ll tell you when I find out but I bet it’s a Monster thing…

    • #52242
      Avatar photoph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      Well, sales must of been good cause rcmart is now out of stock on the front damper mount.

      So I hope all you madforce owners out there got your order in soon enough!

      ph2t.

    • #52243
      Avatar photojamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563
      Quote:
      jamie what did you do to your PD and your FETS?

      Well, i left a shim out of the motor mount, which made the gear mesh too tight and overloaded the motor, which made it get hot enough to burn the enamell wire on the armature and make a dead short. The FETs couldn’t take this load at all and blew. There was a trail o smoke coming from under the car when it died.

Viewing 21 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.