Any body heard of a Pureten alpha ep 4wd

Home Forums 1/8, 1/10, 1/12, 1/18 – Discussion Any body heard of a Pureten alpha ep 4wd

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    • #12565
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      I just bidded on a kyosho pureten alpha 4wd on the bay and was wondering if any of u guys have had 1 of these things ? R they any good it is a road car looks good in the pics ?

    • #58635
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      my son has had one for a few years now, must say it has been a real fun car. my son has trashed and thrashed it all over the place, only broke one front hub(after about 30 or 40 hits into brick walls) not a pure race car but would have no problem in novice class. can get the electric for about $300 or the nitro for no more than $400 so dont bid more than those prices.

      BIG DAVE

    • #58636
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      I won it 4 $41.00
      So that sounds promising 😀
      Has an s2000 body 🙂

    • #58637
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      that’s a great deal you scored there…:approve:

    • #58638
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      yEAH IT HAS OIL FILLED SHOCKS N SPARE RIMS ETC…:p
      Only been run tenutes they say :8ball:

    • #58639
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      i’ve got one of those, it was my first 1:10. and it’s an excellent choice, more of a rally oriented chassis, very tough.
      i was hard on mine but only broke about $50 worth of parts on it. and the day before i got my hpi’s i decided to drive it to destruction, but i honestly couldn’t!:p:8ball:

    • #58648
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      yes Its good that it not too complicated as it will be my first 1/10 car as well and it sounds tough from what u guys r sayin :smiley16: How fast can these thing go ? n how does the 4wd work as i have never had a 4wd b4 ?

    • #58653
      bithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …Dude thats a HELL good price…

      …4Wd is pretty cool how it works…I learnt alot with my 18T…You are gonna have a ball…especially for 41 bucks..lol…I wonder what the catch is…

    • #58654
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      $30.00 postage is the only catch I hope ???:shock:

    • #58655
      bithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …still pretty good though if the prices Mini-G mentioned are anything to go by..I know they arent cheap here either…You need any parts let me know…

    • #58656
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      i thought mine was a bargain! i got mine second hand with good electronics, stock chassis, spare wheels & tyres for $150. all i needed to buy was batteries.

      empire, the 4wd works via a belt. all the gears are sealed nicely except the belt which runs from front to back. i never even came close to breaking the belt in mine!
      here’s mine after some slight modification, i added some braces on the shock towers to reduce flex and made an aluminium guard to stop the esc wires touching the belt.

      in this pic you can see the belt cover i made out of thin plastic packaging. i rarely had a rock in the belt after that.

      mine is just being scrapped for parts now so lemme know if you need spares:smiley2::8ball:

    • #58658
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      Nice Pics Betty thanks 🙂
      lOOKS TOO GOOD 4 THE PRICE
      I really like your mods u done Thanks for the parts offer bithed n betty I might need to take u guys up on that soon

    • #58662
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      empire the reason its so cheap is becasue parts are not easy to get and also its a REALLY old model

    • #58663
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      I don’t mind if it’s old cause i will most likely break it or sumthin while i am learning :dead: should be fun though :p Betty n Bithead offered parts too so look like there still around

    • #58664
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeah.. is it RTR or rolling chassis?

    • #58666
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      parts aren’t that hard to come by, i had no trouble at all. and it is an old model but that really means little. it’s a fun car that’s up to the abuse only a novice can cause!:smiley2::8ball:

    • #58668
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      could be the shaft drive version!!!!!! that is even beter:)

    • #58669
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      there are also a touring version of this car (which were not so good.. still arite) also mini-g were did u find out shafties are better.. a shaft car is CRAP for a beginner stripped spur gears and what no make there “lower maintanace” drivetrain more maintainace… unless you know how to shim out the diffs in a shaftie, a belt it ALOT more reliable.. and the belts dont snap and what not as people say they do.. i have had 2 shafties both were adverage compared to my belts

    • #58670
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      yeah its ready to run with charger n batts (new)
      will put a pic in da gallery today 😀

    • #58671
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      hmmm sounds to good to be true.. if ya get the idea.. maybe sumthing wrong.. oh well at 50 bux who cares

    • #58673
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267
      Quote:
      there are also a touring version of this car (which were not so good.. still arite) also mini-g were did u find out shafties are better.. a shaft car is CRAP for a beginner stripped spur gears and what no make there “lower maintanace” drivetrain more maintainace… unless you know how to shim out the diffs in a shaftie, a belt it ALOT more reliable.. and the belts dont snap and what not as people say they do.. i have had 2 shafties both were adverage compared to my belts

      read my first post on this topic merc, my son has hammered the c#@p out of his one and the worst that has happened is a stone getting stuck in the motor! i am not trying to start a belt/shaft war, just going of experience from using the shaft car. belts are fine(looking at a belt car for my next touring car, long live the TC3):) but the shaft driven alpha has been so reliable i have to give it the big thumbs up!!!!!:D:D:D post a pick as soon as you can empire. and good luck with your bargan, hope it all is good:smiley16:

    • #58674
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeah.. AHH TC3.. one of the worst cars i have driven. can some body say torque steer.. or whoope i hit a bump there goes my spur.. needs a fair amount of $$ in a TC3 to kick ass. want a shaftie get teh evo4/pro 4 or make u life easy and wait for the pro 5 (belt).. gonna be a kickass car.. gonnna win the worlds.. mini g check out my sprint if ya want a beltie…

    • #58677
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      yeah.. AHH TC3.. one of the worst cars i have driven. can some body say torque steer.. or whoope i hit a bump there goes my spur.. needs a fair amount of $$ in a TC3 to kick ass. want a shaftie get teh evo4/pro 4 or make u life easy and wait for the pro 5 (belt).. gonna be a kickass car.. gonnna win the worlds.. mini g check out my sprint if ya want a beltie…

      *shrugs* i’ve got no problem with my TC3… torque steer? Have’nt had an issue with that… only issue i’ve had with this thing was due to my own ineptitude/impatience, other than that (quickly fixed issue) she’s a corker. Oh, and Merc; belts might not snap (often), but they do skip and stretch. But i’m not here to give people static… and the shaft v. belt thing could go on for ever. Let’s just say they both have their pros and cons.

    • #58678
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267
      Quote:
      yeah.. AHH TC3.. one of the worst cars i have driven. can some body say torque steer.. or whoope i hit a bump there goes my spur.. needs a fair amount of $$ in a TC3 to kick ass. want a shaftie get teh evo4/pro 4 or make u life easy and wait for the pro 5 (belt).. gonna be a kickass car.. gonnna win the worlds.. mini g check out my sprint if ya want a beltie…

      ha ha ha….in one quote you contradict yourself!!! evo and pro4 are just coppies of the best!!!!(stick that in your pipe and smoke it!) i have been running TC3’s for years and had none of the problems you mention:shock:didnt have to spend money on it and only done one spur gear and that was from runing it on the totaly wrong surface. same surface that stuck the motor in the alpha!!! was yours a team or RTR????? the team(or any that are kits)are not for inexperienced builders(not that i am saying you are by the way). and dont have to check out your sprint(chuckle) had a pro2 years ago, good car but the x-ray or 415 would be the only cars i would bother looking at.:D dont diss da TC3!!!!!!!! or the TC4:smiley16:

    • #58679
      empirebayjmt
      Participant
      • Posts: 70

      Ne way fellas there is a pic in me gallery now :blush: I have paid 4 it now I will just wait n see what happens ? I don’t have a clue if it shaft or belt driven ?

    • #58680
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      belt driven mate… i think betty mentions it about ten posts back… Merc; i’m a newb in 1/10… why was the TC3 a crap choice for me? Do share, i’m all ears…

    • #58681
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      ahh so mini-g ur a racer.. i would suggest not getting the old FK its fast but ur getting bottle feed a car.. the new HPI looks TEH BOMB.. the 415 is a sweet car.. the sprint was bought as a attempt to get a reliable car after driving a evo3 (which was sweet but decided i hate shafties) the TC3 when running hott just doesnt seem the car it was rated to be (i drove someone elses).. if ya looking at a cheap belt the old FKs go cheap.. the 415 is expensive… when i get home tonight ill edit this post and expand

    • #58683
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      actually i should clarify, mine is a “pure ten alpha 1. i’ve also seen an alpha 2 and an alpha 3. and one or both of those is a shaft drive. so we’ll just have to wait and see to be sure.:8ball:

    • #58685
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      oh ok.. hmmm.. no chassis pics normaly in adverage condition.. but still for under 100 bux who cares..

      TC3.. just they have torque steer issues depending on ur motor choice also spur gears strip on ur motor gearing and race style.. if ya one of them fast in fast out.. with a front one wya or spindle ur gonna tear up front bevel gears.. they tryed to do a 3 peice shaft but never heard ne thing good about it.
      tc3 or 4 is a good beginners car but graphite is useually bad news with electricity and also shatters doesnt flex.. CF is stiff but flexes abit. just not a fan of teh car.. but i have a VERY agressive race style.. eg who cares about teh car/motor aslong as it last the race and does it quickly

    • #58690
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      all shaft drives have a small amount of torque steer, just goes with it. but when set up right is not a problem. the TC3 has always had a 3 piece shaft! i take it you mean the evo3 had the 1 piece shaft??? the evo4 is 3 piece and seems to have fixed the problems.

    • #58692
      FALCON-LORD
      Participant
      • Posts: 76

      No Shaft Driven car needs to have Torque steer.
      When you understand why the Ka-50 HOKUM has no tail rotor you will understand why…

    • #58697
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      nah the proto type tc3 didnt have a 3 peice and it was arite they brought in a 3 peice to make it easy and then ive heard of the females cracking.. what eletronics etc do ya have ??

    • #58698
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Merc i thought graphite and carbon fibre were ona and the same material…….

    • #58699
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      cabron fiber is carbon fibre plates woven hence teh purdy paten.. graphite is moulted graphite. its different. the molded stuff conducts electricity and tends to shatter

    • #58700
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267
      Quote:
      cabron fiber is carbon fibre plates woven hence teh purdy paten.. graphite is moulted graphite. its different. the molded stuff conducts electricity and tends to shatter

      they both conduct electricity!!!!!and they can both shatter, the carbon more so than the molded graphite!!! but you have to be hitting something pretty hard to do this to either! and prototype parts dont count. the car came out with a three piece, thats all that matters.

    • #58701
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      mini g moulded stuff conducts more.. and i found my graphite Ta04 wasnt as good as teh CF in my evo 3 or t1.. any way.. back to the subject of the alpha .. chassis is a personal prefrence thing.. this is 100% the last xray i will drive.. next car is the new losi or new hotbodies (HPI) car. i have heard about some shift stuff in that new xray.. the new HPI is 99% likly to be the next top car (better than 415) unless tamiya brings out the fabled 416 (rumors aoubt its design) then we might have a battle but as it looks teh new car with hara and shurikarn testing should be sweet..

    • #58702
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      how long you had the x-ray???? what version and why you not running it any more???? or is that why will it be the last one you drive??? so do you race merc???? if yes where and what class/es?

    • #58703
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      templstowe.. i got a Xray T1r with all teh Cf and oneways and stuff so its pretty much a FK.. the new one isnt up to speed compared to 415 TC4 pro4 Mi2 and it isnt a twist on a old design like all the 415 corraly new HPI/hotbodies.. all have similar layout but have all there own twists.. the only good thing about the xray is adjustable diffs in car thats it and im sure u could transplant one into another car

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