Any Nitro Nuts??

Home Forums 1/8, 1/10, 1/12, 1/18 – Discussion Any Nitro Nuts??

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    • #12225
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Any of you ausmicrons into nitro cars??

    • #52975
      brendan
      Participant
      • Posts: 377

      i am

    • #52977
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Well… started racing them back in ’79… 🙂

    • #52996
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      About the last time you raced, hey zoomer?

    • #53001
      brendan
      Participant
      • Posts: 377

      i started racing nitros 4 years ago but im a electric boy now

    • #53038
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563
      Quote:
      Well… started racing them back in ’79… 🙂

      Back in 79 you were like 30, right?? j/k

      ok what car you got brendan??

    • #53092
      brendan
      Participant
      • Posts: 377

      now, none. i sold my tb-02 and lookin for mabye a evo 4 when it comes out

    • #53109
      trash
      Participant
      • Posts: 651

      Damn, thought the might be something in here about…. N2O is da way to go !!

      Nitrous Oxide …. great stuff…. picture the homer simpson car that runs on Alcohol, one for you, one for me, one for you, one for me 😮

      I just got into Nitrox diving too (also refered to as N2O), but I’m thinking now I like the feeling of being Narc’d !

    • #53158
      Star Guitar
      Participant
      • Posts: 173

      Im into nitro, i have a Savage.. Anyone else here have one?

    • #53462
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      i am looking into moster trucks, but the traxxas TMaxx or Revo gets my vote.

    • #55649
      Prabbit
      Participant
      • Posts: 16

      I have a T-maxx, I had a Savage 21, I have a nitro RS4. Also have electrics.

      -Peter

    • #55650
      Prabbit
      Participant
      • Posts: 16

      I have a T-maxx, I had a Savage 21, I have a nitro RS4. Also have electrics.

      -Peter

    • #55651
      Prabbit
      Participant
      • Posts: 16

      Nitros kick butt when they’re running. My RS4 runs perfect. Never dies, idles perfect. I just bring it in before it runs out of fuel and fill it up while running and go some more. My T-Maxx on the other hand (as well as my Savage and my friends mammoth and my friends revo and my friends storm etc.) just seem to die a lot. It seems we never have them all running at the same time. Well, that and the monster jumps at our local BMX track seem to attract a lot of broken parts.

      Anyone thought about making a 1/4 scale monster truck?

      -Peter

    • #55654
      MiniKing
      Participant
      • Posts: 182

      Ive also got a nitro car its a GV2 with 0.15 motor and two speed gearbox and it rus really well…i havent had any problems now that it is run in properly ill give pretty much any other nitro car run.I raced a HPI and left it for dead…i used race 1:10 electric had a Xpress pro no were near as quick as my nitro though.

    • #55662
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Haha yeah those huge jumps and Wide open throttle are potentially dangerous for your car, but awesome phun!

    • #55663
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Haha yeah those huge jumps and Wide open throttle are potentially dangerous for your car, but awesome phun!

    • #55669
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      Nitro is for loosers (had to buy 10 or so to make sure ;), well, got a nitro Helicopter too). I’ve got a 1/5th scaler in transit. 5hp Zenoah and no nitro in sight 😀

      I could have got a 1/5th scale monster, but I really wanted an F-1. Maybe next year 😉

    • #55672
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Nitro is for losers….lol….You can’t SPEEEL dude.

      5hp Zenoah…..um….wtf has been done to it??

    • #55673
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      *laughs* I have really been avoiding nitro…. then I learnt of “HPI Nitro RS4 Mini” and now I know what I want 😉

      Pity they’re made of unobtainium….

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #55692
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      Ofna make a Mini Z10 thats pretty simular for around $300AUD with engine (Force 12). Some HPI parts fit. I love all my 1/10 Mini cars, but the Nitros just don’t handle because of the high CG. The front wheel drive Kyosho Nitro Mantis Mini is my favorite 🙂 It’s disco’d too though 🙁

      The 5.3hp Zenoah is a stock G-26 ‘outlaw’ spec. I was actually looking at the .21 powered Schumacher Fusion (70+ MPH), but then I remembered how much these things cost on wheels, tyres, fuel and piston/liners. The 5th scaler is much cheaper in the long run.

      Try working 72hrs a week and getting 6hrs sleep if you’re lucky and try spelling then…sometimes you just don’t care 😆

    • #55696
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      wheels = $0 unless yo do something stupid. Tyres, well, depends, a set of bow ties lasts me ages…Fuel…not that dear, $12 for a litre or therabouts…pistons and liners…pfffft they last ages unless you can’t tune engines, and they don’t really cost much, usually less than an electric mod motor and generally last ages.

      I have a stock zenoah LH (1.2hp @ 7800 RPM) and am getting a 29cc big bore/stroker crank head kit with 13:1 dome….jumps from 1.2hp to 3.75 @ 16,000 RPM :):)

    • #55704
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      Wheels generally need to be replaced with the tyres. Since we’re (well I am) talking on road, wheels look pretty sad from curb rash once the tyres wear out. At any rate, I don’t much want to bother with trying to debond super glue from used wheels. If you run off road, wheels and tyres can last the life of the car.

      Tyres cost $30 and last you one race weekend, and that’s just on a race tuned .12. a .21 would half that. Piston/liner is $80+ every 8 litre of fuel in a race engine at correct race tune, on a race engine like a NovaRossi you can expect to spend double, tripple etc. Good fuel costs $16/l and you’ll need at least 500cc for a race weekend.

      Zenoah will go 1000hrs (in chain saws etc) without drama and fuel costs $1/litre. What is your Zenoah in?

    • #55764
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Dunno where you get your prices dude….I just bash, and it costs little.

      And um, theres no way that a G26 will last 1000 hours, lol thats a fast one if i’ve ever heard it…

    • #55791
      oldtamiyaphile
      Participant
      • Posts: 315

      The 1000hrs thing is from a German mag that has a lot of large scale content, the G26 may not last that long, but it’s going to be a lot longer than any 1/10 engine.

      Ask any competitive 1/10 or 1/8 racer what a race day costs them…

    • #55799
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      The 23cc Zenoahs do last a long time, even on a race large-scale. Seldom hear of anyone blowing an engine or even needing to overhaul them… usually the rest of the car would be worn out before then.

    • #55878
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      No zenoah will last 1000 HRS without problems…

    • #55890
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      I think a lot has to do with good 2-stroke oil mixed correctly into the fuel.

      These little spark-ignition engines aren’t overly stressed and they can still continue to run with crazy huge tolerances. Similar engines run for months continuously in portable generators and all your lawn tools… 1000 hrs would be a snip.

      Talking of which… oooooh, miss the smell of burnt castor.

      But never remembered it to be so LOUD..!! 😯

    • #55894
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      I guess it all depends on application, a portable generator is usually a fairly constant load….

      My application is a motorized scooter very high loads etc.

    • #55953
      Prabbit
      Participant
      • Posts: 16

      I’m building a true 1/4 scale monster truck. No, not one of those little 1/4 or 1/5 scale things you can buy online. Mine’s 1/4th the size of a real monster truck. You know, like Grave Digger. Have you ever seen that truck? It’s HUGE and mine’s 1/4th the size of that. Not a quarter scale of a pickup truck like the ones mentioned earlier. It’s powered by a 50cc Honda scooter motor with variable transmission. Steered by a 12V linear actuator and has 16″ (40cm) of TRAVEL and 16″ (40cm) wheels! It weighs about 120lbs (55kg). Who’s your daddy!!! This thing will pull me, a grown man, on a skateboard without any hesitation. Hell, it could drag me down the street on by butt!

      -Peter

      -Peter

    • #55954
      AdamC
      Participant
      • Posts: 51

      Wow, sounds like fun (not the being dragged by the butt bit)

      You have to post some pics

    • #55961
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      I’m building a true 1/4 scale monster truck. …It’s powered by a 50cc Honda scooter motor with variable transmission. Steered by a 12V linear actuator and has 16″ (40cm) of TRAVEL and 16″ (40cm) wheels! It weighs about 120lbs (55kg).

      Wouldn’t that be just RC’ing a typical 4WD All-Terrain-cycle
      (like the Honda/Kawasaki/Skidoo etc), what body?

      When RC toys get that big… it sorta loses its purpose.

      If its big enough for a guy to ride, imho you’ll have
      more fun RIDING it rather than driving via RC.

      ps: hope you’ve got reliable FAIL SAFEs. 👿

    • #55971
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Yes a wide open throttle runaway 1/4 scale MT could probably be classed as a weapon of mass destruction lol.

    • #55987
      Prabbit
      Participant
      • Posts: 16

      I put failsafes on all my nitro stuff to protect my cars. I put a failsafe on this project to protect ME and whatever else it could potentially destroy.

      Of course I have pictures! The body is a carcas of a kids electric ride in jeep. Also, please note the video is without the engine tuned very well so it’s a little slow. I tuned it a little better since then but it’s still not quite right. I’ve also done a few other mods since these pictures like the 12V Actuator steering, chain tentioner and some other stuff. Also, remember, it doesn’t look like a store bought truck because IT’S NOT. I designed, cut, welded, machined, drilled, bolted and wired every piece.

      http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/quarter.html

      -Peter

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