Anyone used the ATOMIC modified motor case?

[ph2t]

See the following motor can. It s bascially a plasma dash can but it comes with ball bearings and neo-magnets….

see here: http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_80&products_id=8017

anyone?

ph2t.

[Geo-Z]

ph2t,

i haven’t ‘used’ just the can, but i have the entire combo (Atomic AR18 Torque-i motor). It is very much like the plasma dash….if you plan to order these, the heat dissapation is good, but there are too many holes onnit, may help if running in cleaner areas…oh, and the brushes are quite specialized, they use the type that clip to adjacent sides, may help to buy 3 extra pairs of ’em for backup.

[chino]

all the brushes are exchangable between atomic,mrs4 45t motor, plasma dash. best brushes ive used wus the ones made for the mrs4. carbon brushes seems to be way stronger and melt away at high voltages like the PD brushes. are thoes made out of a silver compound?

[peteWah]

Not sure about silver, dgs73 runns HPI brushes in his PD, I think they are carbon…

[chino]

yeah th hpi brushes are great

[chino]

ph2t, do know if it would be safe to run a stack plasma dash with a 2×2 stack of SI’s

[chino]

ph2t, do know if it would be safe to run a stock plasma dash with a 2×2 stack of SI’s

[ph2t]

is this in a z or an xmod? Id say it’s borderling safe under a high torque application ie: like an xmod with AWD installed.

2×3 would be safe for sure…

jamie, what are you running in your xmod?

ph2t.

[ph2t]

oh yeah, back to topic.

well I scored this motor can the other day and I gotta say I’m pretty darn happy with it. :smiley16:

The neo magents are nice and strong. They are secured with 2 U-clips (not one like usual). They’re on par with the minizworkshop gold neo’s. Not as strong as Draconious’ neo’s from mzr.com. To strong is no good anyway…

The endbell being a plamsa dash design fits onto the the wider commutator armatures like a glove. That’s why I bought this motor case, purely for this setup. I’ve put an unmodified plasma dash armature in this case. It’s easy to spread the brushes apart by taking unclipping the side metal assembly, pushing that fatty commutator in, then clipping the brushes back in place, viola!

I broke it in for about 40 minutes, alternating 10 minutes in each direction, using 2 AAA nimh’s. Dry breaking.

I’m yet to through it on an 01 chassis, it’s currently in the madforce. When I do I’ll give you some speed checker details, see how this puppy performs.

It’s the fastest motor in the madforce to date though. On 7.4V lipo I’m getting 48kph with a 16t pinion. I removed the neo magnets and put the plasma’s own ferrite magnets in and I got to 56kph.

Also, this motor plays it cool. Way cooler than the tradiional bb can.

ph2t out.

[ph2t]

Ok, I’m never buying a closed bb can again! I just put this motor onto my iwaver with a nelly v1.3 and a 9t pinion.

I clocked 52kph!!!!! Yes that’s 52kph running on only 4 cells!!!!!!

This motor rocks!

ph2t.

[TallduDe]

😯

imagine 12t or dat 16t u have…………..

[jamiekulhanek]

Matt, i run a Tamiya plasma dash armature with 12 degree advanced armature, ball bearings, atomic neo magnets and steel shims…

With 4x Energizer 750’s and a Woah Nelly 1.1 Turbo.

[ph2t]

standard closed bb can? and buy the shims you means the brushes yeah dude?

I got some of those Xtra speed brushes if you wants to try a set out. They were the long one I told yu about a while ago. Good length to mod to correct the alignment against that fatty comm.

ph2t.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

standard closed bb can? and buy the shims you means the brushes yeah dude?

I got some of those Xtra speed brushes if you wants to try a set out. They were the long one I told yu about a while ago. Good length to mod to correct the alignment against that fatty comm.

ph2t.

Nah I use the open endbell Plasma Dash can, I install BB’s in the cans myself, by shims I mean spacers between the can and the magnet, there are a few good reasons why I do this…

Yeah i’d love to try a set of Xtra speed brushes…name a price…

[ph2t]

how do you get the bb’s in the endbell? the spce left over from the bushings is bigger than your regular motor bb’s. what do you do to fit ’em?

I assume the process of putting shims behind the magnets pushes the magnets closer and increases the magnetic field for the armature to then get its drive from?

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

how do you get the bb’s in the endbell? the spce left over from the bushings is bigger than your regular motor bb’s. what do you do to fit ’em?

I assume the process of putting shims behind the magnets pushes the magnets closer and increases the magnetic field for the armature to then get its drive from?

I have a way of locating the bearings centrally and sticking them there…..

The process of shimming does do that, but more importantly, the gap between the armature stack and magnets is reduced from 1.2-2mm to less than .3mm, so heat dissipation is much much better…

[ph2t]

lol, you’re not giving much away are you? lol….

makes sense about the heat transfer. But I’ve found since using the plasma type can there’s a lot less heat in comparison to the closed type bb can. Must be ’cause the commutator is “outside” the metal can, helping it dissipate heat.

ph2t.

[chino]

3×2 huh thnx for the info. im running a pd armature an a normal close case but i cut 8 vent slots on it, it stays way cooler than it did before.
is there anyother tricks to bend the PD com tabs w/o breaking them? i need sum how to keep thoes intact cus sumtimes my motor gets so hot i melt solder pionts off a rewound armature. is there a place to buy raw comms? where did u get ur atomic case?

[jamiekulhanek]

I just use an X-acto knife and very slowly pry them up….havent busted one yet…

You need to use slver solder on those comms….

[ph2t]

I’ve stopped soldering to the commutator tabs now. I just pre-strip the enamled wire and loom it through. I then push down on the tap to seal it in place. Much better than soldering and also reduces any irregularities they may cause the motor to become off-balanced….

[jamiekulhanek]

if you are really serious, silver solder it and kevlar wrap it…but ph2t’s methos works the best IMO

[chino]

thnx alot, ive been doin ph2t’s method but sumtimes thabs are stck down so good. the eccesive force i use ends up cutting it off. haha i guess i should be more carful.

jamie, slver solder wont melt under high motor heat? my motor sumtimes gets finger print removing hot. haha

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