ausmicro Project Car: MR-02 Hot-Shoe-Blue

[Aaron]

The Project:

[/quote]Build a MR-02 using parts that are all available through ausmicro.com’s online store. The car is to Showcase the improving quality of iWaver/Firelap, the Technology of PN Racing and the overall brilliance of the MR-02 Platform.

[/quote]The Parts:

[/quote]

[*]IW02 Donor Chassis for Fitment testing and Misc Parts
[*]IW02 Black Wheels
[*]IW02 Mclaren F1 Body (Street) with custom touches
[*]Kyosho Clear Blue MR-02 chassis
[*]Kyosho MR-02 Electronics
[*]iWaver Blue Alloy:

[*]Steering Knuckles
[*]Battery Clip Heatsinks
[*]Front bulkhead
[*]TieRod
[*]Rear Suspension Triangle
[/list]

[*]PN Racing:

[*]MR9498 Blue MR-02ML Motor mount
[*]’Saber’ Motor
[*]780mAh 1.25v Batteries
[*]Low resistance wiring
[*]Rubber Sealed bearings
[*]Carbon H/T Plates
[/list]

[*]ausmicro.com:

[*]’Spider’ External FET Turbo – inc Heatsink

[*]Custom Turbo Driver package
[*]Blue Alloy Wheel Nuts
[*]Alloy motor Pinions
[/list]

[*]Miscellaneous

[*]Kawada 40T Ball-Diff conversion
[*]GPM Titanium Screws
[*]Delrin Servo gears
[*]Modified IW Light Set
[/list]

[/list]
Pics will appear in this thread as we start the assembly process, at the moment we have a lot of parts in ‘flight’ and a huge pile ready to assemble[/quote][/quote]

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Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

you lucky bastard!

i look forward to one day facing such a beast on the track!

[Aaron]

I don’t know about lucky It’s goign to chew up a stupid amount of cash and given the lack of driving time I get it’s goign to have a hard hard life.

But it shoudl look pretty and hopefully show just what can be done.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Admin]

iI think that sounds awesome, I’m jealous. I just won a mini z on ebay, It’s the 01 version but the listing said it had every gpm part available for the chassis and that it had a turbo and pns03 motor. I’m hoping when it gets here it is as cool as that one sounds despite the fact that the 01 chassis style bites compared to the 02, The 02 is much smoother and stays on the ground alot better through sharp turns. good luck with the project man.

[Aaron]

Well the ‘Silly Season’ should be starting soon.

The Electronics, new chassis and the last of the alloy arrived today. Now just waiting on the ‘Eensy Weensy’ Spider board to come in from Fabrication (small and lighter), the Oil dampers, and the Kawada to arrive. Oh yes this shoudl be a fun little car! Pics over the next day!

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Here’s our first pic:

This shows the majority of the ‘packaged’ parts goign in Hot-Shoe-Blue. Most of this stuff is available through the ausmicro.com shop, and is being installed ‘as-is’ with no customisation. Once we’ve got it all together I’ll work on tweakign the parts to make things smoother , the goal right now is to emulate a standard off-the-shelf experience.

As you can see we’re giving the extensive range of iWaver alloy bits a go, overall the parts look great in a pile and will look even better in car!

--
Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

And now a pic with a large number of these bits attached.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

The rear end. I’ve actually used a PN MR-02MM mount instead of the 9498ML mount. As I’m running a mono-shock on top (Kyosho Oil Damper) this mount is just fine.

I have to say that although I think I got the iWaver rear suspension together correctly some clear instructions (or any instructions would help!)

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Well last night I did some more work on Hot-Shoe….

The Kawada 40T Spur’d Ball diff is a very nice unit…But here’s the downside:

[*]Only works with specific Kawada Wheels (Set provided with foam tyres)
[*]Larger than stock wheel nut sizes. Uses wheel nut to adjust diff tension
[/list]
On the up side it comes with 9-12 tooth pinions which let it get up and go nicely and the wheels and axles etc spin very true. Overall it’s a high quality unit, but probably best for Pocket Knife (Pro Z) type cars. The wheels simply do not fit with normal style shells.

I also installed the steering servo geez that’s a really really annoying job. Took a while to get it going. But now it’s nice and smooth.

The ‘Stock’ MR02 electronics were fitted for a really basic shake-down ont he Tamiya Speed checker. Running a Speedy BB motor and 9T pinion (on the 40T spur) we clocked an impressive 30km/h using no-brand Blue wrapped NiMH 650Mah batteries.

I’ll do some more running of the chassis with this electronics config and then do a test with the PN Batteries before launching into the Electronics mods.

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Site Owner Guy.

[peteWah]

Is it ready for some racing yet… :smiley2:

[betty.k]

i’m really impressed with it so far considering it’s just bolt ons! well thought out cars are a pleasure to see!

wait until you try to fiddle with the servo when it’s wired up! rilly painful!

[Aaron]

Yeah – been fiddling with that servo again… 🙁

I’m happy with the results so far, it does drive and run nice in very limited on-ground testing, although it’s not built to be a straight line hero it shoudl still get up and move ok. If I get a chance tonight I’ll be sticking on some of the larger pinions to see if we can get the speed up a bit more.

I’m going to have to think about body choice some more though. Perhaps a SUV (Ford F150?) body will work best?

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Admin]

I know how troublesome the servos can be at times, I’m not sure how it is on the 02 electronics but on the 01 there is a dial just below the servo fets. on the 01 coming out of the servo are 4 wires, two of them are green and orange. where they connect to the pcb is where you want to look. now right in front of them is a small circular metalic piece, now if you set the steering trim to neutral on your remote and your car pulls to the left or right, use a pencil as a tool to turn the dial as you do your servo will go left or right accordingly. all you have to do is turn your pencil eraser down and use it like a screw driver. My servos are perfectly centered. I figured this out when I changed my servo gears to alloy, and my servo wasn’t centered afterwards. It is sure easier than taking the servo apart.

[z-beam]

Quote:

Aaron wrote:

Yeah – been fiddling with that servo again… 🙁

I”m happy with the results so far, it does drive and run nice in very limited on-ground testing, although it”s not built to be a straight line hero it shoudl still get up and move ok. If I get a chance tonight I”ll be sticking on some of the larger pinions to see if we can get the speed up a bit more.

I”m going to have to think about body choice some more though. Perhaps a SUV (Ford F150?) body will work best?

A.

lowered suv sounds mighty fine! something original that for sure!!! is there a blue f150 though?

[ph2t]

dude, loose the rubbers, go foams………

very nice though, loving the theme. It should become a spider show car as well with a PN anima in it and one of your low count alloy pinions.

now that would be a show car!

ph2t.

[Aaron]

Trust me it’ll be making the most of the ‘Spider’. It does run foams at the moment, but the width of the Kawada rear setup is such that it’s a bit too wide for the F1 body. So there will be a few different configurations it will run in.

The Spider this car will end up running will be a smaller version of the current model.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Did a but more running with Hot-shoe this weekend. Swapped out the ‘random’ crappy batteries for some PN Racing 780mah…

Popped it onto the speed checker to report a 32km/h top speed.

Then running off the (motor only) DuraTrax ICE we did some testing to see the total performance potential of the Old style Speedy BB. The motor is no-longer available and is replaced by the Speedy05 BB

Using the full voltage range of the ICE we were able to determine that with a 14 tooth pinion on the 40Tooth Kawada spur we’re going to hit the wall at 60km/h, assuming we can get close to 8 volts into the motor. As this car will always be running 4 cell NiMh it’s not really a fair comparison but hey we have the toy and it really did sound smooth!

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Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

this car looks so high-tech. especially with the maclaren body. its rare to see such a done up z with zero damage. i look forward to having a race with this car…

[Aaron]

It ‘flew’ down the stairs yesterday. had some steering glitch issues and it went off the top and landed badly. It flew from near the office door (that only makes sense to z-beam) and dropped almost an entire floor before hitting the steps….

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[bithed]

…do we have the technology to rebuild it? Is it going to cost 6 million dollars man? (sorry i just couldnt resist;))

[Aaron]

Yes, it clocked up about 5 minutes of long speed carpet running after the fitting of a new T-Plate.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I’ve now fitted a Kyosho Oil top-shock, and have a Topcad ball-diff for running rubber tyres (or Gandini Foams) which should mean there’s an option for clearance under the F1 shell.

A/

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Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

Quote:

Aaron wrote:

It ‘flew’ down the stairs yesterday. had some steering glitch issues and it went off the top and landed badly. It flew from near the office door (that only makes sense to z-beam) and dropped almost an entire floor before hitting the steps….

A.

nooo!

that is quite a drop indeed!

you just have to come up to sydney to have a go on the foam track with this thing Aaron, see if all this fancy kit can outperform my supra!

[Aaron]

The car might – but my drving is pretty average!

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[betty.k]

sounds like a winning setup a!

trust me, don’t use a single spring on the rear, foams on the rear, rubber up front. much more forgiving of bad driving (like mine!)

[Aaron]

I’ve got to try some different bodies as the Kawada diff is a bit wider than a stock MR02 in the rear and the larger tyre diameter fouls the wheel arces on the F1. That’s why I’ve picked up a Topcad diff.

The single oiler in the rear seems to be quite softly set, which should mean it dampens without causing to much overall change. The modified mount I use for it has made it somewhat more free moving…

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Site Owner Guy.

[betty.k]

topcad diff should be cool. i’m running a 3 racing and it all works well together (f1 bod, foams, diff) no rubbing anywhere.the bodycould even go lower but that sounds like work to me!

[Aaron]

Did some work again. We’ve ditched the iWaver alloy spring set at the rear, gone for the simpler mono (oil) shock.

I’ve also started the process of giving the girl a new heart… (see pic)

We’re using Hot-Shoe to test EensyWeensy – hopefulyl when combined with an Anima we’ll be moving at a decent speed 🙂

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

mmm Just did a run with the PN Batts and a early prototype Spider for a rock steady 34km/h repeatable with ease.

Not a great improvement over the stock FET run but an easy couple of kph over the Stock FETs.

I’ll be Testing with an eensyweensy next…

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[betty.k]

yeah, but put em on the ground. i’ll bet money the spider rig takes off faster than the stock one. and you can gear it higher too

[Aaron]

Latest Pic of the Body (well new body). TopCad diff is now in the car and it’s free rolling on fresh bearings and getting a new electronics package.

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Site Owner Guy.

[z-beam]

looking nice aaron, hows she handle on a nice big surface?

[Aaron]

Handling was “alright”. Newest changes in the pipeline are a SpiderDS and back to a set of regular plastic camber knuckles to tune the handling some more.

The plastic wheels are now a bit tired looked and I think it’s time for alloys…

That said I’ve pushed it aside with ressurecting my MR01 so it could be a while before more happens.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Author]

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