Ball Diff Install

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    • #12296
      N-Hawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      I picked up a ball differential that came without install direction (of course :/). In the package are two soft rubber O-rings. What is the proper install procedure for the O-rings? Being of a soft rubber type, they appear to be for tension or torque adjustment rather than just spacers as with a metal shim. And what shaft adjustments or positioning, if any, are correct for proper function?

      Thanks,
      N-Hawk

    • #54855
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      The “o” rings go between the thumbwheel and left diff plate, it adjusts the slip/action of the diff so you can adjust it to give good traction on any surface

    • #54860
      N-Hawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Thank you! And what size is that darned allen screw? My smallest is too large. :/

      N-Hawk

    • #54861
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      that grub screw is 2mm… try a jewellers screwdriver set, that’s one place you’ll get a allen key that small, or if your local hardware store has em singly, mya be your best bet…:smiley2:

    • #54869
      N-Hawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Thank you again. Finally got it with a 1.5 from my jewelers set and a pair of visegrips — it was stuck! LOL

    • #54871
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Only use one O ring dude….. and give us a report on your sucess with the diff, if you have any problems, just give one of us a holla…

    • #54873
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      i lost the grub screw from my gpm ball diff and i got some replacements from a r/c plane shop.

      only cost me $1.50 for three of them but they are a bit too long for the hole.

      when adjusting/tightening the diff whats the best setting for different surfaces? i think i’m running mine a bit to loose at the moment.

    • #54877
      N-Hawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Well, this was not a good day for much of anything — especially not to be working on the new diff!!
      Got to breaking down the new diff to install the delrin gear and ….. the danged little c-clamp decided to take a prolonged vacation to parts unknown and to never be seen again. :dead: Guess I’ll spend a good deal of the next couple days scouring the local hardware stores to try to find a replacement. I already know they don’t carry metric screws or nuts that small. :8ball:

    • #54878
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      Well, this was not a good day for much of anything — especially not to be working on the new diff!!
      Got to breaking down the new diff to install the delrin gear and ….. the danged little c-clamp decided to take a prolonged vacation to parts unknown and to never be seen again. :dead: Guess I’ll spend a good deal of the next couple days scouring the local hardware stores to try to find a replacement. I already know they don’t carry metric screws or nuts that small. :8ball:

      I don’t think you’ll find them at hardware shops your best bet would be to try a local rc hobby store. I know tamiya carry them in bags of 10 and should only set you back a couple of dollars.
      😀

    • #54880
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      those c-clips give me the utter s***s… my carpet in my room has eaten at least five of the little buggers… so easy to lose as they fly off when being removed:angry:

    • #54881
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Thats why i buy about 10 at a time from fastener stores….

      The pilot shaft on the engine of my Nitro 1/10 has a c clip on the end, and if it comes off often the roller bearing comes out too and zooms off at a million miles an hour into a big patch of vegetation…..$22 just for the little roller bearing hurts….

    • #54882
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      funny how the smallest parts fly off into the largest areas of grass/shag carpet/etc…

    • #54884
      kitsune
      Participant
      • Posts: 142

      Try a big-ass magnet 🙂
      Won’t work on all parts but I find it handy on occasion, enough so that I’m considering making a rare-earth magnet “broom” 🙂

    • #54885
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      some parts such as stainless steel and non ferrous metals/composites are not attacted to magnets….

    • #54887
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      fortunately spring steel is magnetically attractive. i always have a big magnet right on the diff when removing the e clip. you should have one on your old stock diff (if you have one).
      jamie told me to set your diff up so it slips just a little on take off. like a poor mans traction control, have it so the diff slips before the tyres do.:8ball:

    • #54916
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      They don’t call the “jesus clips” for nothing 😉

      You can also buy proper plier for handling them that reduces the loss factor to a much more sane rate 😉

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #54926
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      they call em “jesus clips” cause you say Jesus Fucking Christ where the fuck did that fucker fly off to!

      😀

      i use a noticeboard pin to get em off, wouldnt mind buying a few spare to make sure i never lose em, same with grub things!

      Edited by – TallduDe on 17 August 2004 19:59:18

    • #55003
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      They don’t call the “jesus clips” for nothing 😉

      You can also buy proper plier for handling them that reduces the loss factor to a much more sane rate 😉

      A.

      looks like another trip to Jaycar is in order…:smiley2:

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