Ball Diff

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    • #11838
      Matt005
      Participant
      • Posts: 28

      I m just wondering what ball diferentials do everyone use, I am planning to get either the kyosho ball diff or the mzr ball diff with ceramic balls. Also has anyone had any experience with nml motors.

    • #47200
      t00l
      Participant
      • Posts: 109

      from what i have seen around, nml are the fastest and the best out of any motor, for heaps of info on that head over to these forums here and goto the motor section, its where nml himself actually talks and answers any questions :
      http://minizrac.nexcess.net/forums

      as for the ball diff i have a gpm diff with the 1/16″ balls and oh boy is it nice and smooth over the stock 😛
      link:
      http://www.minizworld.com/modules.php?name=Store&func=ShowProduct&product=18

    • #47305
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      I got the Kyosho ball diff II, it’s smooth as…

    • #47996
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      hey dgs73 dos the lsd really make that much of a difference.

    • #48003
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      yeah, you can adjust it to suite. Got a WFC diff on my other z, and can say after comparing that the both that I prefer the meshing of the Kyosho diff’s gears. The WFC is cool though, and alot cheaper.

    • #48319
      bithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …I used a KYOSHO and it was good…I switched to a SQUARE (local Japanese Brand of Extroidenery Quality) and have been smooth sailing ever since..it arrives from the factory clinched up pretty tight but she is running good now…A TAD more expensive than KYOSHO but well worth it…Has an aftermarket option of polished plates and better balls…and gee 🙂 wouldnt you know it I sell these puppies too 🙂

    • #48372
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      NML motors are still plauged with the fact tha they ae related to stock motors…only with a different armature and a few air holes……get a damn plasma dash, they haull ass.

    • #49083
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      are plasma dash’s that much better than an x-speed?

      is a titanium ball diff better than aluminium?

    • #49096
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Plasma dash has 5 times the power of the X speed, and is almost twice as fast.

    • #49110
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      does it drain power faster tho?

    • #49284
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      run-time is decreased and motor needs rebuilding every 5-6 runs…:evil:

    • #49292
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      What price glory!?!?!?!

    • #49384
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      What the …..?

    • #49385
      mocky
      Participant
      • Posts: 239

      nml are undefeatable.they may look crap outside but ive seen how they’re are on the inside. Neobrymium magnets,bbcans,special winding wire and pattern very neat and tidy and the connecting wires are thick as,if only they were silver,it would better.It rips the plams dash,it uses less electricity than plamsa too,very low heat and doesnt need as many fets as the plamsa.
      A nml can eat any motor with time to cool itself off for round 2.wen u buy one u’ll feel the difference.

    • #49390
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563
      Quote:
      nml are undefeatable.they may look crap outside but ive seen how they’re are on the inside. Neobrymium magnets,bbcans,special winding wire and pattern very neat and tidy and the connecting wires are thick as,if only they were silver,it would better.It rips the plams dash,it uses less electricity than plamsa too,very low heat and doesnt need as many fets as the plamsa.
      A nml can eat any motor with time to cool itself off for round 2.wen u buy one u’ll feel the difference.

      Mocky i am an electronics enthusiest, and what you just said about the NML motors, just doesnt add up.
      The Plasma Dash is super efficient, and runs quite cool, if the NML uses less power then there is no way it can develop more power.

    • #49391
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      This was taken from a xmodracer.com

      Mocky it appears NML motors are not what they want you to believe.

      NML,

      You are trying to start it again, offending me!!

      NML, Why are you still talkin crap after you said you werent anymore.. If you are referring to me as a Poser because I came out with my Big Block Version, then youre wrong.. Hey, Im not the one accusing people of fraud when youre the one Hipocrit who practices Fraud Armatured Motors. Im not the so called, “NML Handcrafted Quality” BS’er or FRAUD MOTOR SELLER using 5.00 Tamiya Armatures, ripping off people, BIG TIME!!

      First of all, I dont care for people to buy the hydro motor. I even recommend it as well. i mentioned it in my threads that I have started two days ago..

      Second of all, my Big Block V-12 Motor is not the exact motor that I bought from Hobby People. Dont make false accusations until you have Real proof!! Im talkin about the real proof of how you got caught big time from the past, whether its your phoney High Octane batteries where they are Sanyo 1.25v’s or whether its your Tamiya Armatured Motors!! Its the slower one’s that they sell at electronic stores, where I revised the armature, re-handwinding it for more RPMS than the stupid hydro motors in which i will soon test as well.. With these motors, it also depends on how you gear it!

      Look, Im not the bitter one here who got caught redhanded using 5.00 Tamiya Machine Wound Armatures where you sold your motors for over $50.00 US dollars. YES, NML!! YOU KNOW YOU GOT CAUGHT REDHANDED AGAIN, USING 5.00 TAMIYA PRE- MACHINED WOUND ARMATURES!!

      Now, that the fact has been proved about your so called ” NML Handcrafted Quality” , you are now trying to redeem yourself by kissing people’s @ss over here by posting your apologies, finally contributing ideas now, and future truly hand wound made armatures(to redeem the fact that you used 5.00 Tamiya Pre-Machined Wound Armatures) to divert the fact or change the topic in which you previously got caught redhanded for using Tamiya Armatures, and you know it’s true!!

    • #49866
      magtec_racing
      Participant
      • Posts: 29

      i seen plasma’s stomp on nml’s thats why people started useing plasma’s.

      i race at a track and do scale drags and my plasma just spamk’s nml’s and i can buy 5 plasma’s for the price of 1 nml.

      nml= stock Tamiya hyperdash motors with pn bb cans that are polished and pn brushes. anyone can do what hes doing hes a fin can swaper. anyone who handwinds motors can back there clames up with dynos but so far he hasent showed me 1.

      oh yeah i use a minizracer.com diff “anodized at home and it was kinda easy if you wanna know how pm me found out how to do it in a hot rod mag.” and i polished the rings with motheres alu. and mag polish. its like butter.

      oh yeah the only fact nml is knowen is becouse his friends are like there so fast you cant beat them but everyon knows the plasma just bi tch slaps it. useing a plasma dash is like bringing a hawitzer to a knife fight.

    • #49868
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      how’s about you just post a new thread on how to anodize stuff, or you’ll be writing a lotta pm’s. we don’t keep secrets here:8ball:

    • #49870
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      I have never used an NML, but they look plain crap! plasma is a well built motor MADE IN JAPAN and costs a mere $12AUD. Slap in some bb’s, spacers and neodymium magnets, rewind it with under 20 turns and you have the best FA-130 motor in the world for less than half the price of an NML. The rumours about excessive heat generation from the plasma is UTTER CRAP!!! Mine runs hot with the stock motor clip, , because it insulates the motor and traps the heat in, but whack on a heatsink and it runs cool. I just upgraded my motor sink to a big 4fin that sticks out the back window. Looks tuff and keeps the motor very cool.

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