best differential award

[takata]

hey guy’s
i have just recently purchased a shitload of parts in the group buy but there’s one thing missing, thats right a kickass diff i need to know what is the best diff to run with, i will be running a super x-speed motor with a v1.3 nelly.

any ideas, or is it all in vein if the motor dosen’t run with bearings, and what’s the deal with the ceramic are they much better than the stainless.
Any info would help. THANKS TAKATA:evil:

P.S Ph2t if you read this “hook me up brother” i’m awaiting your bank details so i can get the v1.3 in before the order from TE gets here. sent you a PM about a week ago don’t know if you got it or not.

Cheers Takata

:D:D

[TallduDe]

for me kyosho diffs are the best. smooth straight out of the “box” and come with spare parts. also they are ezy to tune ie loosen or tighten.

also you could use a titainum shft for smoother running. but beawre these parts are expensive, but worth it.

[bithed]

…i second that…KYOSHO is all you need right out of the box…You just KNOW its going to fit AND work AND last…

…for blinginess and the cool factor I like SQUAT…they ARE expensive parts but the finish and the workmanship is always spot on…and shape wise the parts look like they are EXACTLY the same as KYOSHO…but they are a ’boutique’ part…

…GPM i like and have no problem with…being a ‘beater’ driver as i am i learnt very early on that strength is MORE important to me than weight…Sure GPM does some cheesy looking parts for whatever platform but the finish is good…fit is ok and they are generally pretty bombproof…FYI it took me AGES to get my GPM diff in the monster dialed in…It needed a slippery re-greasing too…

…SO…

…perfect buyer scenarios…

…KYOSHO…You have some money to spend on parts and you want good stuff but you dont want to break the bank…you prefer ‘plug-and-play’ and trouble-free running…You dont mind the colour of gunmetal…You like how Bithed adds KYOSHO stickers to KYOSHO parts orders and you can rest assured that DGS will have a spare part for it 🙂

…SQUARE…your long lost uncle wants to buy you something…You want it to fit, be plug-and-play AND you want to have the coolest setup at the track…You like how you have the choice of purple or gunmetal / titanium finishes…You dont mind waiting while BitHed orders this in for you 🙂

…GPM…Jump on the internet, got to dinball, order from a machine and its there in 10 days…it MIGHT NOT fit..usually does but might need some work to be perfect…You might want to replace those screws, bearings and ghastly pillow ball cups later on…Occassionally the softer alloy will de-thread but usually you are good…you want drivetrain to match your body paint…You curse that BitHed cant get GPM because you were all out of gum 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

I myself had the topcad diff, it was awful to begin with, very gritty and inconsistent, but after some fiddling it was consistent….but still felt like there was a beach tucked inside somewhere…I added alot of go fast bits and the diff “broke in” and was as smooth as a baby’s ass…

[dgs73]

both the Kyosho and Square are awesome… Kyosho needs a titanium diff shaft though. Square was tight when new, but once worn in is even better than the Koysho…:approve:

[bithed]

…the SQUAT DOES need polished plates as the stock ones are pretty grainy…And titanium all around 🙂 exampe…SQUARE does nt do an 02 diff but you can just get the 01 one and swap out the shaft to titty-minium 🙂

[dgs73]

is’nt the shaft on an 02 diff longer than the ’01 one, dood??:D:smiley2::D

[bithed]

…sorry…rereading my post i realise im not making sense…i write better in lists anyway…

…NO square 02 diff as such SO…

…buy square 01 diff w/ stock steel shaft…

…also buy square titty 02 shaft…

…swap shafts 🙂

…ignite and drive away…Pop another stick of gum and drop by the post office to send BitHed your 01 shaft 🙂

[dgs73]

you wanting to get your hands on afew shafts again dood?:smiley2::clown:

[takata]

hey thanks for the info i am thinking of leaning towards the square one, they sound like the shit i’m after 3 does any one know estimate prices for these diffs.

i have noticed no one has mentioned anything about cermic balled diffs, is this because they are over priced or what?

sorry i cant help you out with the shaft business bithed i’m just not into that type of thing. :blush::D

[bithed]

3? yu want 3? Step into my office…I have prices on my site but buggered if i can rememeber how much they are…Check it and tell me someone 😉

[dgs73]

takata; i’ve thought about ceramic ball diffs, (and have ceramic ball bearings in one of my Zs:approve:), but have been more than happy with my Square diff. Prices are (off the Bit’s site); 01 Square diff in gun metal or purple anodised accents… $39.90 usd. Titanium shafts; 01 is $22.90usd, 02 is $29.90. Well worth the extra cash if serious about performance.:D

[z-beam]

locally anodized green parts…. mmmmmm….

whats the anodizing process worth?

[takata]

hey bithed i’m definetly after these but i’m trying to confince myself to spend the money so when i decide to buy them i will let you know
but thanks for all the info.
peace out brothers:D

[dgs73]

z-beam; depends on whether we’re having stuff done in the particular colour or not. Was thinking red myself, green’s not bad either, both are colours you dont tend to see here (on Z stuff). As for cost, other than the above factor, depends on amount being done. As Z stuff is so small, i’d guess the full range of alloy parts (batt. clips, motor mount, bulk head, and all shock parts that are usually done); about $10-15 bucks. Thats if the colours are different to what we were getting done. Less if otherwise:approve::D

Edited by – dgs73 on 08 December 2004 09:29:07

[z-beam]

do you do the anodizing on site dgs? or do you send it off to be coated?

i noticed lastnight that the blue alloy parts i own are three different shades of blue! dispicable! i fixed those blue rims i got too dave… they are totally silver now.

what is the colour range for anodizing, id like to see a graph or something similar… it would be totally worth the custom job to get all alloy parts coloured at the same time the same shade once you own them all.

put me down dave, im in for some colouring action! send me some info on the next time some is being done with the colour and whatnot…

[jamiekulhanek]

Dave i’m interested in some anodizing….

How much for a 200mm x 140mm x 3mm sheet of aluminium? In gold?

[dgs73]

Quote:

do you do the anodizing on site dgs? or do you send it off to be coated?

i noticed lastnight that the blue alloy parts i own are three different shades of blue! dispicable! i fixed those blue rims i got too dave… they are totally silver now.

what is the colour range for anodizing, id like to see a graph or something similar… it would be totally worth the custom job to get all alloy parts coloured at the same time the same shade once you own them all.

put me down dave, im in for some colouring action! send me some info on the next time some is being done with the colour and whatnot…

the range is huge… about thirty colours (most variations of themself ie. light, mid, dark blue), in clear or bright anodised. Funnily enough Zbeam, the green will be either dark green, or lime. Too many colours to list, but different ones i like are red, dark green, black, and purple. (i know that last is available, but…) your first question; no, not in house, but very local. Yeah, i agree… it’s annoying to order blue parts from different places, and they all end up different shades. This should put a stop to that…

[z-beam]

heres some colour ideas… if dgs can do a small batch of parts for under $50 that would be very nicely priced. some u.s. sites wont do anything for under $100usd!

and heres a nice range of anodized colours… even pink for the girls out there…

Edited by – z-beam on 08 December 2004 20:15:03

[bithed]

…yeah now THIS looks exciting 🙂

[Priest]

maybe if they only do large batchs some of us should do like a group buy and pick a common colour

[z-beam]

sure does bithed! silver alloy never looked so good…

from what ive read off the net regarding the process involved, timing plays a big factor in the depth of colour.

each piece in order to be the same shade must be dipped for the same amount of time.

there also was an article detailing the problems with industrial contractors being grumpy about there alu. fittings being different shades. some official guild person said that unless the aluminium was from the same batch, it was virtually impossible to colour match. this article was about bronze tones in particular so im not sure if this applies to the other primary and secondary colours.

another interesting thing is that titanium can be coloured using the same processes.

and the other great piece of info i found was that aluminium and titanium can have there surfaces impregnated with TEFLON. not sure where this could come in handy tho because bearings are usually fitted wherever moving parts are present.

[bithed]

…correct…AE does teflon ‘impregnated’ shock bodies 🙂

[z-beam]

what do they reckon the teflon does? your talking about the plates used in a rear roll shock right?

Edited by – z-beam on 09 December 2004 00:15:07

[bithed]

…no the TUBES on a regular front or rear shock…Just improves the flow 🙂 KYOSHO has released an under chassis sticker sheet for slipping and sliding too…and the same sheet of stuff to place on your body where it might hit the wall..just keeping friction to a minimum…

[z-beam]

stick on teflon? sounds cool!

[jamiekulhanek]

Z-beam, 1/10 and 1/18 shocks have a piston with holes in it that moves up and down inside a cylinder or “shock body”. The piston is a reasonably tight fit in the shock body so to reduce friction u need Teflon impregnated shock bodies.

The piston in the shocks have holes in them to let the oil flow through, this dampens the spring action.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

…no the TUBES on a regular front or rear shock…Just improves the flow 🙂 KYOSHO has released an under chassis sticker sheet for slipping and sliding too…and the same sheet of stuff to place on your body where it might hit the wall..just keeping friction to a minimum…

Cause kyosho knows that people who buy their cars are all money and no skill :p

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