Bit stopped working after vehicle collision

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    • January 19, 2003 at 10:17 am #10128
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      while test driving my son’s Bit on our nearly finished track, I failed to negotiate a turn and slammed head on into a wall. The vehicle stopped working. The wheels don’t funtion nor do the rear wheels. The vehicle does work while it’s on the controller in the charging position. What could be wrong, and what can I do to fix it?

      Thank you much

    • January 19, 2003 at 2:48 pm #43008
      Crom
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      • Posts: 143

      Does the car work when you hold it in different orientations? Like upside down or vertically?

      You might have knocked the battery slightly out of it’s socket.

      Try looking under the circuit board in the car. The battery is the green cyclinder lying horizontally in the rear of the chassis. Just make sure that it is still seated properly.

      For pictures showing how to dissassemble the car, look at
      http://www.ausmicro.com/technical/bitcharg/front-end-disassembly-how-to/index.htm

      Be careful when you open up the car, there are some very thin and fragile wires inside.

      The impossible just takes a little longer

    • January 20, 2003 at 1:21 am #42994
      micro_Amps
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      • Posts: 1290

      Yep, If it runs ok on the charger it sounds like a battery to me
      :smiley16:uA

    • January 20, 2003 at 4:52 pm #42980
      Barrelll
      Participant
      • Posts: 675

      yep same here, check the battery = ) i had that problem, car only ran on the charger, means the battery isnt in position

      27MHZ 3.5 Honda Accord (Custom Exhaust and F1 Wing)
      35MHZ 1.0 Battery Modded Castrol Supra
      45MHZ 2.2 Custom Painted Yellow and Black WRX
      57MHZ 2.6 Booster Trueno
      Mini Z Blue WRX (Lights, Gold alloys, Exhaust)
      Mini Z Castrol Supra + all mods (Coming)

    • January 21, 2003 at 2:51 pm #42876
      Crom
      Participant
      • Posts: 143
      Quote:
      Yep, If it runs ok on the charger it sounds like a battery to me
      :smiley16:uA

      Does that mean that when you charge up the bit, the Rx has to deal with the voltages that you’re supplying?

      Uh oh…

      The impossible just takes a little longer

    • January 21, 2003 at 8:36 pm #42864
      micro_Amps
      Participant
      • Posts: 1290

      Yep thats true, but there is a 3 volt zener diode on the Rx pcb that limits the voltage going into the board to 3V.(The small pinky coloured glass component) So you are safe to charge at 4.5 or 6 volts. I dont know what voltage it would take to burn out the zener, but when it does you will hear a little bang and see a little smoke…….

      Then it will be Uh oh !!!! 😯

      :smiley16:uA

    • January 22, 2003 at 2:30 pm #42828
      Barrelll
      Participant
      • Posts: 675

      hehe .. UH OH :shy:

      27MHZ 3.5 Honda Accord (Custom Exhaust and F1 Wing)
      35MHZ 1.0 Battery Modded Castrol Supra
      45MHZ 2.2 Custom Painted Yellow and Black WRX
      57MHZ 2.6 Booster Trueno
      Mini Z Blue WRX (Lights, Gold alloys, Exhaust)
      Mini Z Castrol Supra + all mods (Coming)

    • January 22, 2003 at 2:58 pm #42820
      Crom
      Participant
      • Posts: 143

      Well, no uh oh’s… 🙂 yet… 😀 But I’m beginning to think I should just shell out the $10 to JNH and get a spare 27MHz chassis just in case.

      The impossible just takes a little longer

    • July 7, 2003 at 11:53 am #24447
      Admin
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      • Posts: 5952

      http://www.ausmicro.com/technical/bitcharg/front-end-disassembly-how-to/index.htm

      Why did this tutorial vanish? Where is it now? Does anybody know?

    • July 7, 2003 at 2:34 pm #24390
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      WHAT YOU CAN GET SPARE CHASSIS’S?

    • July 8, 2003 at 7:41 pm #24254
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      wouldnt mind another booster chassis, hint: trading direct! BOOSTER CHASSIS!!!

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