Can you water proof mini Z

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    • #12275
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      Just thinking as the rain is coming down in Sydney and i know it can be done with a 1/10 car, But how would 1 go about water proofing a mini Z, Anybody done this…:):):p

    • #53958
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      easy as.. just cover all teh electronics in silicon (like in a 1:10 (inside my receiver is a PCB covered in silicon.. also seal the servo

    • #53959
      kitsune
      Participant
      • Posts: 142

      I don’t think you can really waterproof a rc car without compromising on it’s performance, but you can make it splash resistant,

      Get a balloon cut off the hose end used to inflate it, also cut a small slit in the opposite end.

      Remove the formt wheels, knuckles and kingpins, Pull the balloon over the front of the car so it’s past the servo arms. (both the hole and the slit)
      Reassemble the steering.

      tape the balloon to the chassis just behind the servo arms.

      remove the antenna + Hplate from the car

      Pull the rest of the balloon over the car.
      the motor wires should be sticking out ot the hole in the end of the balloon.

      spread out a patch of CA glue or Arydite on the surface of the balloon where the hplate and the antenna are going to be bolted to the chassis, (this should stop the baloon from tearing once you put holes in it.

      let the glue dry, then make some slots where the screws will need to go through.

      screw the hplate and antenna back in place.

      Tape up the hole where the motor wiresare running out.

      Coat the arms ot the steering rack with vasaline or some other type of grease to repell water and reduce the chance of it entering the body there.

      that should protect your batteries and electronics a bit better, if they get wet remove the batteries, wash parts with distilled/purified/deionised water (depending on what’s at hand, and alow to dry in a warm dry place for several days.

      Hope this helps.

      EDIT – that’s the prob with long posts someone beats you too it, the silicone idea might work well if there are no heat issues, but it might be worth putting the pcb in a condom and then just sealing it where the wires come out if all you want to do is protect the pcb wotherwise if you want to work on it the silicon can be a nuicence.

      Edited by – kitsune on 24 July 2004 23:42:29

    • #53964
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      Merc, have heard of silicone being used for 1:10 cars but never seen the application or process
      cheers man

      I will have to read that a few more times Kitsune,
      If you have done this, then good job :smiley2:
      What about heat/water proof bags that are available for 1:10 cars :smiley2:

      Thanks again for the info guys
      :):D:D:D:smiley2::approve::p

      Edited by – peteWah on 25 July 2004 01:02:26

    • #54322
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      Merc, have heard of silicone being used for 1:10 cars but never seen the application or process
      cheers man

      I will have to read that a few more times Kitsune,
      If you have done this, then good job :smiley2:
      What about heat/water proof bags that are available for 1:10 cars :smiley2:

      Thanks again for the info guys
      :):D:D:D:smiley2::approve::p

      Edited by – peteWah on 25 July 2004 01:02:26

    • #53969
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeh that may work the problem is mini-z has wires coming off bothe ends of pbc (i think) and the bag has hole at one end

    • #54327
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeh that may work the problem is mini-z has wires coming off bothe ends of pbc (i think) and the bag has hole at one end

    • #53977
      kitsune
      Participant
      • Posts: 142

      Either cut another hole or extend the wires 🙂
      Not so muct a problem as a minor inconvinience.

    • #54335
      kitsune
      Participant
      • Posts: 142

      Either cut another hole or extend the wires 🙂
      Not so muct a problem as a minor inconvinience.

    • #53981
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Aren’t Mini Zs small enough to play *indoors* when its raining?? 🙂

    • #54339
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Aren’t Mini Zs small enough to play *indoors* when its raining?? 🙂

    • #53984
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      would be cool to have a waterproof overlander or monster, as for a racer i guess you just avoid puddles!

      but to splash proof a overlander would be cool, i saw the old baja bug rcs had a plastic box type thing around the electronics? maybe you could do that to a z?

    • #54342
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      would be cool to have a waterproof overlander or monster, as for a racer i guess you just avoid puddles!

      but to splash proof a overlander would be cool, i saw the old baja bug rcs had a plastic box type thing around the electronics? maybe you could do that to a z?

    • #53988
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      lol panda have you seen ph2t and bettys minis they dont go indoors.. and its easy to waterproof 1:10 gear

    • #54346
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      lol panda have you seen ph2t and bettys minis they dont go indoors.. and its easy to waterproof 1:10 gear

    • #53989
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      I drive my madforce though puddles anyway, like I give a shit….

      lol,

      ph2t.

    • #54347
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      I drive my madforce though puddles anyway, like I give a shit….

      lol,

      ph2t.

    • #53990
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      lol no oneder you Mf is in great condition you know pristene body and never breaks any parts…. with that sort of respect for it

    • #54348
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      lol no oneder you Mf is in great condition you know pristene body and never breaks any parts…. with that sort of respect for it

    • #53994
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      would be cool to have a waterproof overlander or monster, as for a racer i guess you just avoid puddles!

      but to splash proof a overlander would be cool, i saw the old baja bug rcs had a plastic box type thing around the electronics? maybe you could do that to a z?

      I wish we had a big enough open space to race indoors…

    • #54352
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      would be cool to have a waterproof overlander or monster, as for a racer i guess you just avoid puddles!

      but to splash proof a overlander would be cool, i saw the old baja bug rcs had a plastic box type thing around the electronics? maybe you could do that to a z?

      I wish we had a big enough open space to race indoors…

    • #54058
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Water, mud, small puddles never worried my ultima, until one day i landed a HUGE jump at the old BMX track, lost control, slammed on the brakes (the disc was wet so there wasnt much braking) and came to rest in a dug out hole that was about 30cm deep…….AND FULL TO THE TOP WITH WATER!! I actually had to fish around to find the bloody thing…..

      Well, i dried out the servos, and spent about an hour trying to get water out of the engine…lucky it didn’t hyro lock, otherwise it would be buggered!

      Now I have fully waterproofed everything, even the servo output shaft. Pitty you can’t waterproof the air filter……….

      I too have thought about waterproofing a Z, and i thought a silicone cocoon around the elec parts would be the best bet.
      It’s piss easy to apply too!

      A bit of vaseline on the servo arms to stop any minority of water getting in, water will not worry batteries, and would probably help cool them 🙂 just dont drive through salt water, or you will all die from chlorine gas poisoning lol. And we all know salt water stings…..and rusts stuff.

      The only problem I can see, is the motor (if it’s a hottie), you could block off the air vents, but then heat might rise, if its a stocker or an X speed, a bit of tape over the air holes won’t hurt.

      Im sure you have heard that water and electronics are a bad combo, and it is true, but fresh water is very high resistance, salty and other solutions are fairly low resistance and can have an effect on an electronic circuits function, and also corrode the crap out of everything.

      once its all waterproofed, you have traction to worry about, forget flat tread tyres, you might as well attach water skis, a tyre with plenty of grooves to channel water should give OK traction, and adjusting the ball diff to slip a bit will help i guess.

      After a day of play, just dry them off and spray some WD 40 into the bearings etc.

      Oh and you gotta have lights on ur cars, almost all cars that race in the rain have hi beams!!:p

    • #54416
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Water, mud, small puddles never worried my ultima, until one day i landed a HUGE jump at the old BMX track, lost control, slammed on the brakes (the disc was wet so there wasnt much braking) and came to rest in a dug out hole that was about 30cm deep…….AND FULL TO THE TOP WITH WATER!! I actually had to fish around to find the bloody thing…..

      Well, i dried out the servos, and spent about an hour trying to get water out of the engine…lucky it didn’t hyro lock, otherwise it would be buggered!

      Now I have fully waterproofed everything, even the servo output shaft. Pitty you can’t waterproof the air filter……….

      I too have thought about waterproofing a Z, and i thought a silicone cocoon around the elec parts would be the best bet.
      It’s piss easy to apply too!

      A bit of vaseline on the servo arms to stop any minority of water getting in, water will not worry batteries, and would probably help cool them 🙂 just dont drive through salt water, or you will all die from chlorine gas poisoning lol. And we all know salt water stings…..and rusts stuff.

      The only problem I can see, is the motor (if it’s a hottie), you could block off the air vents, but then heat might rise, if its a stocker or an X speed, a bit of tape over the air holes won’t hurt.

      Im sure you have heard that water and electronics are a bad combo, and it is true, but fresh water is very high resistance, salty and other solutions are fairly low resistance and can have an effect on an electronic circuits function, and also corrode the crap out of everything.

      once its all waterproofed, you have traction to worry about, forget flat tread tyres, you might as well attach water skis, a tyre with plenty of grooves to channel water should give OK traction, and adjusting the ball diff to slip a bit will help i guess.

      After a day of play, just dry them off and spray some WD 40 into the bearings etc.

      Oh and you gotta have lights on ur cars, almost all cars that race in the rain have hi beams!!:p

    • #54083
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      dont let Tim or Josh see you mentioning WD40 dood!hehehe these two at one stage would’ve given their chassis a healthy dose… and not for waterproofing purposes…:smiley2:

    • #54441
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      dont let Tim or Josh see you mentioning WD40 dood!hehehe these two at one stage would’ve given their chassis a healthy dose… and not for waterproofing purposes…:smiley2:

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