custom motor q s

[Admin]

Yeah, im new to the xmods/miniz arena, but i used to be way into the tamiya mini 4wd cars, and i wound a custom motor, and was wondering if it would be compatible.

the parts:
*stock taniya armature with 25 turns, handwound
*stock brushes and endbell, cut so it is open like the plasmadash
*can is drilled out to reduce weight, cooling (notsure if this was wise, it has 2 huge holes on one side, 9 in a circle around the shaft.)
*spinbrush magnets (much more powerful than stock.)

this thing is pretty fast, i never got a dyno for it, and i don t know the current draw on it, i mad it a year or two ago.
i assume it shold be fine in an xmod, cause it is based on the stock motor, but i wanted to ask just to be safe.

also, whichis better xmod or miniz?
thanks for the help

[Jay-Z]

hey Capt.ArD, i`m sure all your Q`s can be answered here, just that i`m not real technical! one thing i am sure of tho, & that is that miniZ`s kick ass on Xmods!

[merc-blue]

ok x mods kick ass over mini-z but x mods need TONs of work to get them as going.
i dont know how much current a stock H bridge in a xmod can take but im pretty sure it will take 25T drilling out a motor can is stupid the weigh reduction isnt worth it its better for cooling and containment of the mag feild if it remains solid.
what sort of wind patten did you use?
as for that being a fast motor it is debate able.
hand winding is all about getting them in the right position and taking your time. th best motor i ever wound was a 20×2 wind (machubi) on a xspeed arm and can using .3mm wire
there are alot of ifs and buts with motors.. its hard 2 tell if its “safe” becaue if its not ballanced then u can get spikes of high current draw and stuff your best bet is buy a nelly 1.3 which will take near any 130 size motor and experiment with your motors till you get one that does what you want

[Admin]

thanx for the replies.
yeah, now that ive done some research, i realize that i need to redo the entire job. when i did it, i had no clue about winding patterns or balancing or anything. So the answer is that i wound the wire however i felt like, so long as it was consistent from pole to pole. im gonna do some work on it after school this week, so ill trya nd fix that all.
you’re probably right, drilling the can is inefficient. ill put a nomal can back on it, althogh i would like to say it does make a fun little blower. i guess it puts out 2-5 cfpm:smiley2:.
thanks again

[merc-blue]

yeah if you want to know the physics behind motor winding and such then i can give u a HUGE run down (its sumthing im really interested in)

[betty.k]

i wouldn’t be so quick to dismiss a ventilated can. it can greatly increase the life of a motor and all it’s parts.

as for xmods vs z’s i’m all about the xmod to the power of 10!:p awd, tougher than leather, hard as hell! (yo wherez ma adeedas!):8ball:

[merc-blue]

betty the “ventilated” can in a xmod il covered straight back up but the heat sink.. also there are some containment of mag feild things

[Admin]

yeah, im keeping the can in case, but the endbell is still cu to expose the comm. (just like the plama dash, so is that good enoght to ventilate the thing?
yeah thanx merc, any info is welcome, if you don’t wanna post it all, email to captainard2000@hotmail.com

[Admin]

Thanks for the email, but i still have some questions.
You mentioned that 2x wires for each pole works better. Does 3x or 4x help more? I would have thought that weight would be an issue and the resistance lost by adding wires wouldn’t make up for the extra weight. also, does the lowered reistance decrease the current draw? what i mean is, if i have a motor that the xmod can’t handle, could i just 2x wind it and it would work?
I also don’t understand the concept of magnetic field containment, and why my drilled can would be detrimental to my magnets. The thing runs fine in my mini 4wd, so i guess i need to learn more.

[betty.k]

when winding motors;

more turns = more torque, less current draw, less top speed.
more strands = less torque, more current draw, more top speed.

if you’re using a z then a high 20’s motor will be good and in an xmod mid 30’s works well. personally i think single strand motors are fine.

motors create radio noise which means nothing in a mini 4wd, but in a car with radio gear this causes interference and therefore a loss of control. capacitors are used on the motor can to shield this noise. perhaps big holes in the can allow this noise to escape but i doubt it.:8ball:

[Admin]

yeah… um, i just made a 2x 20 turn motor, spinbrush magnets. it runs, but it’s speed fluctuates and will either be really fast or really slow. the armeture also gets really hot to the touch. i am running it with 6v, just to test, but none of my other motors did that. anyone help/explain?

[kevsta]

Quote:

yeah… um, i just made a 2x 20 turn motor, spinbrush magnets. it runs, but it’s speed fluctuates and will either be really fast or really slow. the armeture also gets really hot to the touch. i am running it with 6v, just to test, but none of my other motors did that. anyone help/explain?

You winding with enameled copper wire ? If you are then you need to remove some of the enamel with a hobby knife where it touches the little holders of the commutator tabs so that it can properly conduct.

[Admin]

yeah i am, i thought i did that but it wont hurt to go back and check. thanx.
i have an extra armature from the spinbrush i took apart, so i may try winding with some bigger wire. how many turns should i put on it so that a stock xmod can handle it?

Edited by – Capt.ArD on 10 November 2004 07:11:18

[merc-blue]

yeah a x3 or x4 will technicaly help more but x2 is the best could be a balance or uneven winding causing one coil of the pole having higher resistance lots of stuff.. just keep winding and re winding till you get it right make sure the timing is right aswell .. i have lined the wrong pole to the wrong part of the com a few times

[betty.k]

probably around 40 turns on a stock xmod to be sure.
2 x 20 turns is a damn hot motor, you may find it lacks torque:8ball:

[jamiekulhanek]

Okay…

On a standard nylon armature, below 35t is not to good.

The stock armatures are small and held together with nylon. What’s this mean?

-The small size of the commutator limits current flow, increased resistance means increased heat from the commutator.

-When the commutator gets too hot the nylon parts will soften and give way, usually writing off the motor.

-If you remove metal from the motor can, you will weaken the magnetic field.

-If you go with a Tamiya Plasma Dash, Or the similar Atomic motor, you will have virtually no limitations, as the commutator is much bigger and helt together with high temperature ceramic epoxy.

Having said that, your mod skills seem to be quite adequate, just remember that this isn’t built to take power like the motors listed above.

[Admin]

yeah, ill leave that armature for later, just in case i need it. i am gonna use a larger guage wire and try and get 40 winds on, but i dunno if that will fit on the tiny armatures i have. the wire is about 1.5-2x thicker than the stock wire on the armature. hopefully this will work better than my other attempts.

[Author]

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