do the mash, the monster mash……

[ph2t]

This is a betty.k inspired work.:smiley2:

Specs:

[*]Gen 1 LXX booster chassis – 57Mhz[*]Daul cell[*]8.25:1 Gears (green ones)[*]EM3.8 Vanquish motor[*]Mosfet modded – single stack[/list]







That last pic is just eye candy, the shell doesn t fit yet. Just gives you an idea of the final setup.

Yet to be done:

[*]Tune the front steering. This includes an extra steering spring and also spring suspension, will need to be pretty stiff.[*]Secure tyres to axels, possibly glue them??[*]Do a betty.k rear suspension kit!!![*]Clean up the chassis internals, secure the pcb, etc,etc.. (she s gonna be an outdoor rig)[*]Add a proper antenna, guitar string of course![/list]

Here s some video showing the rig in action, it s a crapy vid not to my usual standard, the camcorder is not onsite at the mo….

do tha mash (divx format)

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 23 December 2003 21:42:52

Edited by – ph2t on 23 December 2003 23:43:59

[trash]

Look at that mud puppy !!!
I can think of some small fury (animals) insects that would be proud to be crushed by such a demon !

Tell me we don’t need another bit competition !
Show us your freakiest bit machines ! 🙂

[ph2t]

I just took it out the front of my house and let her rip on the concrete. Damn this thing is fast! :p I forget that the size of the wheels contribute to the land speed. The tread on the rear wheels grip the concrete like nothing else.

Anyways, suffered the first casualty of the R&D process, lost my front right wheel! Gotta look at other ways of securing it!

ph2t.

[betty.k]

woo hoo!:pnow we’re talking! but i must add, you bastard! where’d you get them tyres? i’ve been looking for some good off road tyres every where. that should go really well with a longer wheelbase, springs and definately a stronger steering spring. as for the wheels, superglue? although it looks like that little baby has a lotta grunt so you’d have to use a lot. i’ll send you some spring plastic with my other mail tomorrow. can’t wait for the next exciting installment:smiley2::8ball:

[ph2t]

I went to a store called “the warehouse” and got a crapy $4 diecast dune buggy car from there. It was a lucky find cause most of these cheapo toys have plastic wheels.

Damn, you feel dodgy trying to not rip the packaging on the toy whilst checking the toy car to see if it’s got plastic or rubber wheels(sad).

bettster, at what position do you cut the rear motor assembly away from the chassis man? I was looking at it tonight and I’m not %100 sure. Do you have a close enough pic of that TOMY chassis you’ve done so I can have a squizz?

ph2t.

[brendan]

lol nice i love them wheels, how big is the buggy body because mabye u could try and make it fit on there

[HACHI-RYOKU]

Holy crap that’s nice! You and betty-k are making some mutations that make my cars tremble a little. I think they’re definately scared.

I am a little disapointed though. Only single stack fets?!?!?!?!? What’s going on? Running low on fets?

[betty.k]

ok here ya go matt,

http://community.webshots.com/album/106094679KMdEPg

as you can see, i’ve cut between the transfer gear hole and the pcb ‘wall’ downwards. then i go at a 45 degree angle towards the front, so it just cuts into the pcb wall. then i turn it upside down and cut straight down, through the charging plate til i meet up with the second cut:8ball:

[barto_85]

damn ph2t, you have had some spare time, nice work.

[ph2t]

Quote:

ok here ya go matt,

http://community.webshots.com/album/106094679KMdEPg

as you can see, i’ve cut between the transfer gear hole and the pcb ‘wall’ downwards. then i go at a 45 degree angle towards the front, so it just cuts into the pcb wall. then i turn it upside down and cut straight down, through the charging plate til i meet up with the second cut:8ball:

Thanks for that mate, I appreciate it. Now I don’t have to think for myself! Do you have any issues with the intermediate gear coming off during operation?

ph2t.

[betty.k]

nope, never. i was just cautious not to remove too much material around the transfer gear just in case it affected the gear mesh or something:8ball:

[ph2t]

that’s good to hear dude.

man this thing is fun. just with the new shoes this thing works like magic over concrete. once I get the suspension in she will be one smooth ride!

yeah!

ph2t.

[z-beam]

nice work…

[leonli17]

I think a 12:1 gearing will be better for this. Because ur current setup is really for alota top speed.
And the best place to drive this baby is on a gravel road!!! Or just off the walk path.

Edited by – leonli17 on 24 December 2003 00:32:50

[betty.k]

man, every time i post here i just have to have another long look at that thing!:p heh heh, welcome to the werld of dert!:8ball:

[ph2t]

Quote:

I think a 12:1 gearing will be better for this. Because ur current setup is really for alota top speed.
And the best place to drive this baby is on a gravel road!!! Or just off the walk path.

Edited by – leonli17 on 24 December 2003 00:32:50

I was thinking that when I built it. I had the green and blue geared axles in front of me and in the end I thought that if it works and all is cool I would end up kicking myself for not getting a little bit more speed. Seriously dude, you gotta see this thing take off in 100% boost mode, it freakin flys!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

For betty and leon:

here’s some pics detailing how I connected the tyres/rims.

ph2t.

[leonli17]

Thanks ph2t for the pics.
It’s definitaly fast also because of the bigger wheels and the torque that FETs gave it.
And somehow i find there is not much difference between Double Stack and single FETs on same motors.

Edited by – leonli17 on 24 December 2003 01:09:14

[betty.k]

so you’ve basically stuck the big wheels on top of bcg wheels yeah? did you have to make a new pin for the front wheels?:8ball:

[Impreza]

Great werk ph2t. I wish the Wild went that fast:shock:. betty maybe you should mass produce your suspension set for sale as me thinks there may be a few monster trucks in the new year;) me included.

[betty.k]

yes, i’ve had requests.:approve: just wanna get it right before sending anything out. but i certainly want others to try it, just like ph2t. as he quickly found out, big wheeled beasties add a whole new dimension to the hobby:D:8ball:

[Pork_Hunt]

ph2t the woman in the background doesn’t look all that impressed. Man, I know what you mean about figuring out whether tyres are rubber or placcy with out opening the toy. Nice work, that is my plan for my scale racer, when Bithed come thru with the merch! Also maybe the best thread name ever!

Edited by – Pork_Hunt on 24 December 2003 06:57:27

[Impreza]

:), I noticed that to P H. I get that reaction as well sometimes.. usually when I have my airbrush in hand;)

Edited by – Impreza on 24 December 2003 08:33:18

[betty.k]

heh heh, i think we all have adjusted eye sight that can correct the refraction of light through a plastic window on a box!:D and in built mass spectrometers too determine the composition of tyres from a distance!:8ball:

[ph2t]

Quote:

so you’ve basically stuck the big wheels on top of bcg wheels yeah? did you have to make a new pin for the front wheels?:8ball:

nah, I dremeled out the inside of the front wheel nubs so the pin had room to spin freely. I then put superglue around the rim of the new wheel and glued this to the outer side rims of the original bit wheel. This is a sort lazy way to go but it worked. It also solved the problem of the front wheels hitting the chassis when turning. Because the wheels are so far out, a full left or right turn happens without a problem.:)

ph2t.

[betty.k]

berry berry nice! aint nothing wrong with resourcfulness. i’d be nowhere without it!
i had to cut out the inside edge of the lego wheels so they cleared the body:8ball:

[ph2t]

Quote:

ph2t the woman in the background doesn’t look all that impressed. Man, I know what you mean about figuring out whether tyres are rubber or placcy with out opening the toy. Nice work, that is my plan for my scale racer, when Bithed come thru with the merch! Also maybe the best thread name ever!

Edited by – Pork_Hunt on 24 December 2003 06:57:27

lol dude, my wife is used to small, fast moving objects flying around the floorboards at home. It’s good to see I’m not the only sad case when it comes to sussing out toys….:p

anyways, here’s some more play-by-play.

Sofar I had only one steering spring in there, the car would turn but it would take a while to straighten. Then if it went into boost all hell would brake loose. I added an extra spring and got better results, but still not enough for what I wanted.

So I’m at three springs now. I’m using a clone steering arm that came with this (now to be) handy white disc that ensures the springs don’t fly off. With one spring it’s not really needed, but with 3 springs I happy to have it!

Time to add the independent front end suspension, lol….

Out to the backyard I go…..

To re-iterate betty’s comments, DO THIS MOD! It is way fun and adds a whole level of sadness to grown men playing with toys!

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 24 December 2003 13:13:52

[betty.k]

that steering prob can be a pain. i just unwound a spring with thicker guage wire and made a new one. it looks terrible but works well. also the wheelbase lengthening helps stabilise the steering at speed.
and yeah, what he said, DO IT DO IT DO IT!! maaate, it’s fully schick!!!:p:8ball:

[ph2t]

Found that 3 springs is a bit hard, hmmm, what to do…..

What is better? Adding an extra magnet or adding extra coils? Which one will create a greater force of pull?

ph2t.

[Impreza]

That truely should be a beast when it is done:) One of you will have to do a vid of your monsters jumping bit bodies.

[betty.k]

does it have a steering fet? and i’d say the easiest would be a stronger magnet like one of them rare earth jobbies. more coils sounds like trouble! also, i lubricate all moving steering parts with powdered graphite, and that helps a lot. if you don’t have graphite around just scrape some dust off a pencil lead, same stuff!:smiley2::8ball:

[micro_Amps]

Quote:

What is better? Adding an extra magnet or adding extra coils? Which one will create a greater force of pull?

To increase the magnetic flux you need more current through the coils.
Either a higher voltage on the same coils (a la dual cell) or replacing the coil with one wound in thicker wire, so the reduced resistance draws more current.
The steering coils are around 15 ohms. You might even consider steering fets as they will take another 0.7ohm out of each steering circuit, and switch quicker than the original bj transistors.
You might even find that peeling off some windings from an original coils will increase the current going through it. But at the same time the reduced amount of windings will reduce the field strength because each winding adds to the coils magnetic strength. So that one is a trade off.

I’d go for a dual cell booster pcb, triple steering springs, and high gears (12:1) and you should have one fun machine.
I have a dual cell with triple steering springs and steering fets, it screams in a solid dead straight line and corners very well too.
:)uA
P.S. Nice work Ph2t, I like the look, might have to add this project to the list for the new year. I know of those wheels, I think I have one of those buggies in my bits box as well, I think it was about $4.

[ph2t]

Thanks man, I’ve come to a point now where I can’t seem to improve the steering any more. I’m also having issues with the integrity of the front end. Due to the dual cell history of this chassis, the steering mount isn’t as secure as I’d like it and now under these extreme conditions the wheels seem to come off their mounts more frequently.

I’m gonna take the plunge and redo the whole thing on a TOMY chassis…

ph2t.

[betty.k]

the tomy front end is quality all the way! whaddaya got to lose?! as a result my only 2 tomy ccg’s are now modded, don’t have a stock one anymore:approve: i’ve come to the conclusion that clones are great for spares but the tomy rules in the quality stakes!:8ball:

[leonli17]

Yep. Everyone realise this at the end.

[ph2t]

Ok then, moving along to a TOMY chassis I’m now modding this chassis keeping in mind the end application.

Now, I don’t know how everyone does their internal dual cell mods but I’m keeping well away from the front end. The mistake on the last chassis was that I removed the screw mount area from the steering assembly under the misguided reason that I could get more room this way (it did get more room, but now under monster bit conditions, the front wheels pop out all the time). So I’ve now focused on getting the room in the chassis for the daul cell mod by dremeling out the rear half of the chassis.

Here you can see that I’ve ground out the rear plastic wells that seated the original battery. I’ve also lost the charging contacts, doing a custom connector with this chassis.

Here you can see that the batts fit perfectly. I want to use 200mah rated batts to get the longest runtime I can ’cause when playing with the 1st prototype I made there was never enough time to enjoy, the darn thing kept running out of charge to quickly…..

ph2t.

[betty.k]

heh heh, i’ve got the same prob with run time! it’s not that short, just too much fun to stop and charge!!:8ball:

[ph2t]

Well I ‘ve finished soldering and cutting and prepping. First runs on the floorboards with a 1.6 show promise but i have few issues with some wires being too short, arghh….. I’m gonna replace the 100uF capacitor on there with a surface mount cap of the same (or greater) value just to decrease the headroom. I’ve got plans for an r32 shell and I might need the space! Although it will prolly be raised in the end given the space that is needed by the wheels to turn/operate.

Too late to continue, time to crash……

ph2t.

[micro_Amps]

Looking good Ph2t, taking out the ‘rear’ wall of the chassis tub is always the way to go. You have heaps more room than usual because you dont need the rear wheel cutouts in the back of the chassis.
The smt cap will be the same can size and might even be more hassle because of the shorter legs. You might want to consider using a new ‘standard’ cap and extending the legs so you can put the cap into a corner somewhere. I have even mounted them on top of the heatsink to get it out of the way.
Just a thought.
:)uA

[betty.k]

i was wondering, what would a higher value cap do? and when you say higher value do you mean uf or voltage?:8ball:

[ph2t]

When talking higher value cap we’re talking the uF value. Currently it is a 100uF 10V cap. I would replace it with something the same but at a lower voltage of 6V. I do this for the single reason is that is what I’ve got on hand.:D No other reason. I have some great tantulum SMT caps going up to 330uF that are still smaller than the stock cap. Micro, I’ll update the chassis and show you a pic shortly.

I can only think what a higher value cap would do, the best thing is to try it and see the effects (if any).

Cheers,

ph2t.

[micro_Amps]

A higher value (uF) wont make any difference. The 100uF cap is a minimum capacity to make the DC-DC converter work correctly, increasing the size will make for a slightly smoother DC output but no performance improvement in any way.
One thing that can be done is (as Ph2t stated) is to go to a 6.3V electrolytic which is slightly smaller ‘can’ size. The data sheet on the 3.3v DC-DC converter says that the voltage rating on the capacitor must be 3 times the output voltage (to protect the cap at startup), but I have many clones that have gone for the smaller (cheaper) option of a 6.3v capacitor and they work fine. So I would have no problem changing to this smaller capacitor. As I said before a standard electrolytic with the legs extended can be put somewhere less obtrusive than under the pcb.
My last dual cell that I did I removed and resoldered the capacitor and the tuning coil, relocating both onto the top of the pcb. The underneith of the pcb was then almost flat to allow the cells to fit neatly in there, and the pcb didnt have to be flipped.
:)uA

[ph2t]

Move the tuning coil hey? hmmm, sounds interesting…….

[ph2t]

Ok then, took the monster for a test drive on the concrete out back and she’s showing promise. Got a few things to fine tune but sofar so good!

Here’s some video (Divx format) of the monster in action. Note: she’s a booster so you will notice a distinct difference in speed at times.

Video (5MB)

Enjoy!

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 28 December 2003 14:04:19

[betty.k]

hmm, dunno if i did something wrong but all i got when i clicked the link was a janes addiction audio track. is it me?:8ball:

[ph2t]

you need to d/l the video codec from http://www.divx.com , it’s free.

and it’s Rage against the machine man, “Sleep Now In The Fire”

ph2t.

[betty.k]

ok thanks. rage, janes, they all look the same to me!:8ball:

just watched the vid. coolness! goes just as fast as mine. and looks like we experience the same amount of rollover. you gotta get it into the dirt now and try a little circle work!:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 29 December 2003 04:14:49

[ph2t]

We’ll I rebuilt the front end using matched steering knuckles this time, doh! I had issues with the steering that pretty much caused the car to lock into a very tight left turn when I went into boost mode. I’ve now fixed this and the steering is also more responsive. I believe one of the steering knuckles was sitting tighter in the housing that the other one.

Here you can see the new front end, whilst it doesn’t look heaps different if you compare it with the pics from the previous pages in this thread you will notice a difference.

I have also started fitting a pcb cover to the chassis. In the end I removed the big black 100uF capacitor and replaced it with surface mount version on the underside of the pcb. This gave me more room to work with on the topside. Only the 220uH inductor and tuned coil are now in the way and that ain’t so bad. I will mod a pcb cover to suit. You can see from below how the cover sits and it’s profile.

I still have to put frontend suspension in. I wanted to try it without the springs to ensure I had the steering arc and return springs functionality working properly first.

ph2t.

[betty.k]

love that profile shot, dat’s one phat baby! can’t wait for the next thrilling installment!:smiley2::8ball:

[Impreza]

looking good as always ph2t. Just wondering? would shaving down the original wheels give you a bit more clearance or is this not really an issue? Just thinking about the part that holds on the original tyres…

[ph2t]

nah, it’s not an issue man. With the front wheels out so wide the arc the wheels turn never extends long enough for them to rub up against the chassis. The steering knuckles hit first as per normal function.

ph2t.

[micro_Amps]

What shell is going on that Ph2t?
:)uA

[ph2t]

an r32 pullback. possibly with a roof/hunting rack with 4 x 3mm white leds! gotta design a mounting method yet……

Still focusing on the performance side at the ‘mo. It takes a while to tune this little bugger and I want to get it right…..

ph2t.

[micro_Amps]

Fair enuff, sounds good, I remember now you are a big fan of the R32 shell.
Be sure to post pics.
:)uA

[betty.k]

nice one baby! but don’t stop there. i wanna see a rifle in the rear window and a deer strapped to the bonnet!! and if you could sort out a “i hunt and i vote” bumper sticker i’d wet myself larfing!:D:8ball:

[ph2t]

lol dude, you got any banjo tunes I can put on in the background to really compliment the hick experience?

:approve:

Edited by – ph2t on 05 January 2004 14:51:35

[betty.k]

yeeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaawwwww!!!!!:D:8ball:

[Impreza]

sry ph2t, I was thinking of ground clearance, but good to know about the turning arc not being affected by the larger wheels.

[ph2t]

so you mean from the front wheel knuckle to the tyre? in this case I don’t think so either. The front wheel mounts are about 1mm lower than the lowest part of the chassis, after this there is still approx 4mm of clearance given by the tyres.. so it’s all cool…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Ok fellas, most of the dev work is done bar the rear suspension. This bugger flies!!! I’ve got mah bit in at work today and will hopefully take some video of it soon…..God I love it when my boss ain’t here!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Video is still in the works, it’s coming and it’s gonna be cool!!

He’s some updated pics of the precious…..

cheers,

ph2t.

:approve:

[betty.k]

very smooth lookin’ job! can’t wait to see the feature length flick! can we expect some jumping through flaming tissues!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

so, give us an update, what’s the current setup?:8ball:

[ph2t]

Well here’s the score:

Last week at work my boss (tha @#$%@$%) has been on leave and I had a chance to take this baby for a spin in the corridors and MIS dept at work. My work mates were rolling there eyes on my latest creation since this obsession is sorta known to them(ausmicro is always open at work, *sigh*)….

Well I gotta say this, she’s a real beast! With my EM38 Vanquish and low ratio gear set she’s pretty fast in non-boost mode but when you go into boost, holy freeholy batman!

The range I got inside down the corridors was easily 15m-17m. When nobody was looking I took the car outside (sad) and gave it a spin. I achieved easily what I later counted out to be 30 metres! That’s close to 100ft!!!! The range is insane! NB: It’s a 57mhz LXX Booster combo.

This is where my problems started :dead:.

I was running the car inside, just kicked in the full boost when I lost controll and the car veered under a door into another dept. The problem this time is that it DIDN’T clear the bottom edge of the door. Try to figure out from this picture what took the full brunt of the car slamming to a stop.

The little white coil thingy (also known as a variable inductor) took the full force of the car’s momentum and when it the bottom edge of the door. The coil was lifted off the PCB and one pin had removed itself, not a good thing. Needless to say that I’ve thrown away a few hours trying to fix it up buits she’s got a good time to heal before going pro in the local circuit……

ph2t.

[betty.k]

AAAAHHH! 😯 you gotta get a shell on it! that’s the reason i put one on. just don’t use one of your faves cos it’s gonna get scratched up plenty:8ball:

[jamiekulhanek]

LOL i thought my Tri cell Wild Char G was creative….

[z-beam]

very fruckin nice ph… i want a pair of those rear wheels.

check out the linx at the bottom of my post, somewhere in that gallery is pics of my skyline ute, and if your going to have a go i got some spare railway modellers faux tray lining and some fat alu. pipe for a roll bar just for you. :smiley2:

[Admin]

Hi ph2t,

that is pretty sweat. there is a cannonball jeep clone that is out… the shell and tires from the jeep would look pretty nice on that rig.

here is a link to a small review that i posted… includes pics

http://www.microrccenter.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=20055

Edited by – jeep02tj on 16 January 2004 03:29:32

[betty.k]

hiya jeep, welcome to the mad house!:) don’t ‘spose you can give us some info about where we can order these lil’ suckers? love to get my hands on one:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 16 January 2004 04:23:17

[Admin]

I got it from Modells for $7.99 plus NJ tax.

Modells is a brick and mortar sports and clothing store in the northeast US.

check http://www.modells.com for the nearest store.

i like the car but it has absolutly no power. i plan on doing a mosfet mod… i am not really sure if i want the traditional mosfet mod or the stacked fets yet.

[ph2t]

Looky here, yes this project is still going. finally got off my arse and modded a body to suit. Here’s some pre painted shots…

ph2t.

[betty.k]

oooo, coming along nicely………slowly, but nicely!:D:8ball:

[ph2t]

OK then. Since the last pics I’ve done a fair bit of work to the shell. All that’s left is some finer detailing and a clear coat. Once that’s done it’s all systems(throttle) go!

Now, as long as the coffee does it’s job I might even get more of it done tonight!

ph2t.

[brendan]

wow that looks real nice, very smooth man great job.

[ph2t]

All done fellas…..

Final Specs:

Frontend spring suspension.
Monster tyres, slick fonts, wicked tread rears.
3 steering springs
2 x 200mAh NiMH batts
49Mhz LXX Perfection PCB
Doublestacked fet modded PCB
Guitar String Antenna

Yeah!

ph2t.

[betty.k]

….and an EM vanquish 3.8, right?!:smiley2:
faaaaaantaaastic!! great results, the clear really topped it off nicely. pity most of it will be scratched off during rollovers!:8ball:

[Pork_Hunt]

I just realized that your ute, ph2t, looks like an XH Falcon ute (EF style front).

Edited by – Pork_Hunt on 15 February 2004 17:04:12

[jamiekulhanek]

coonas r tuff.

[z-beam]

i finally had a go, xcept my monster can change back into a sbcg in under a minute. got to love the sbcg snap on rim system!

i’ll get some pics up tomorrow to show you what i mean!

[z-beam]

heres a pic of a snap on monster rim with spring suspension:

[Pork_Hunt]

Well, a regular bit can be interchangably monsterized…
I glued my front monster rims to a spare set of LXX front tyres. They just pop on and off. I didn’t do that on the rears, but it wouldn’t be hard to.

[Author]

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