Electric truck setup
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- This topic has 16 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 20 years, 7 months ago by PandaBear.
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August 18, 2003 at 9:45 pm #11808
hows this for a winning electric truck setup
1. associated factory team rc10ts
2. associated MVP stock plus Motor
3. associated (lrp) Quantum competition #2 esc
4. Hitec lynx 3-channel FM (the 172.00USD on tower)
5. asociated 48p 19t Racing pinion
6. 4 or so RC2400 6cell battsi recon itll own at the track any opinions
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August 19, 2003 at 12:37 am #46908
thats kickass setup zac try and get sum of them 3300s that are roar legal that will be better for racing then a 2400
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August 19, 2003 at 10:57 am #46911
yes well if u read the rules (http://www.chargersrc.com) follow the links you would relise that there is no 3300 legal racing batterys the highest is 3000 and that is nimH so i will stay with nicd as my chrger only does nicd i will eventually have a good charger so 3000 will be handy
Does anyone have any feedback especially VR_4 your allways helpfull
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August 19, 2003 at 11:30 am #46913
get a matched pack
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August 19, 2003 at 12:04 pm #46915
yea i no some matched sanyos
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August 19, 2003 at 3:58 pm #46922
You left out something important… the DRIVER. :p:p
Experience & car setup knowhow is required.
A seasoned racer would spank yer shiny :8ball: even
if he/she only drove a Tamiya Stadium Blitzer and
gave the newbie a 3 lap headstart.Best equipment ain’t everything on the track…
(but it sure looks good when you come 2nd :blush:) -
August 19, 2003 at 5:00 pm #46927
*laughs* That’s so true Panda…
I’ve had the pleasure of carpark running with one of the local aces here… the guy could make a RadioShack R/C look quick 😉
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Site Owner Guy. -
August 19, 2003 at 8:14 pm #46930
doubt it, anyway ive raced touring cars b4 and i aint that bad at offraod..but please a stadium blitzer??
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August 19, 2003 at 9:38 pm #46936Quote:..but please a stadium blitzer??
Hey, ya dissing the S’Bitser?? :angry:
Its got ok suspension & drivetrain, give it decent oil shocks
with full bearings and it can probably do a lot better than
you think. Its not much removed from a ‘current’ design.A Tamiya BLACKFOOT on the other hand…. 👿
Haha, the ‘slow & steady’ way some pros drive you’d think
they’re going backwards… yet the lap times don’t lie.Offroad racing is pretty different to flat-ground touring cars.
I think its easier getting a TC adequately around a track, but
driving buggies needs more thinking to be quick. -
August 20, 2003 at 10:06 am #46949
remember how to land off jumps. if you give it throtle your noes goes down if you brake your back goes down. landing and turns are key to winning.
a pro drive can kick his car insted of useing a motor and still beat ya lol
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August 20, 2003 at 6:09 pm #46958
I have heard that a matched pack can be worse than loose bought cells.
You can get a pack of matched ‘duds’ too.
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August 20, 2003 at 7:13 pm #46961
Yup… the worst cells in every matched batch are
still “matched”, haha… 👿Luckily most of the good battery namebrands aren’t
stupid enough to try sell these as matched, I’d
think they’ll just package them into “sport” packs
and the very worst they’ll resell to industrial
users.There are usually several grades of matched packs
too… and priced accordingly. Usually the “Team”
ones are the dearest & with the best numbers.However, batteries that have gone thru matching
also means they’ve been cycled a few times. This
tests all the cells and makes sure you won’t get
anything that’s DOA… occasionally that does
happen if you use raw brandnew cells. -
August 21, 2003 at 4:34 pm #46975
Wish i could get matched AAA cells for my mini z 🙁 Spose i could do it myself (to a degree) with my charger, but i don’t feel like buying lots of energizer AAA’s at $13 a pair 🙁
I am going to hardwire the whole thing with thick gauge wire….i.e. Lose the batery clips and friction contacts, the whole thing will be hadwired with Deans plugs to unplug the battery and motor.
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August 21, 2003 at 5:29 pm #46978
Do you reckon the hardwiring will make a significant difference Jamie?
Just curious as I’ve not tried it….
A.
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Site Owner Guy. -
August 21, 2003 at 5:46 pm #46979
Yeah i do, friction contacts have high resistance, also, the battery springs use very thin wire, if you stretched the spring out it would be quite long (there are 4 springs too).
Along with a FET mod it would be good.
The batteries should be soldered directly, and so should the motor.
Use low loss deans plugs between the battery and esc, and the esc and motor. -
August 21, 2003 at 5:48 pm #46980
So it will be more like a 1/10 sort of thing.
Battery clips are ok i guess with low grunt motors, but when you start drawing serious Aperage, i think it matters a LOT. -
August 21, 2003 at 6:57 pm #46982
Those contacts are probably OK up to 1A, maybe even 2A. They don’t heat up much when pumped at those rates. (no prizes now guessing how I charge them…)
Maybe when you’re trying to draw more than 2A (ie your batteries only last 10 mins) you could try hardwiring, but till then its probably not worth the trouble on a mZ.
There are other ‘skinny’ hookups in the circuit… like the interconnects inside the motor can and the PCB’s tracks aren’t exactly anything to yell home about.
otoh… Plazma Dash does suck about 4A…! 😯
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