Electric truck setup

Home Forums 1/8, 1/10, 1/12, 1/18 – Discussion Electric truck setup

Viewing 16 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #11808
      peedee
      Participant
      • Posts: 418

      hows this for a winning electric truck setup

      1. associated factory team rc10ts
      2. associated MVP stock plus Motor
      3. associated (lrp) Quantum competition #2 esc
      4. Hitec lynx 3-channel FM (the 172.00USD on tower)
      5. asociated 48p 19t Racing pinion
      6. 4 or so RC2400 6cell batts

      i recon itll own at the track any opinions

    • #46908
      Star Guitar
      Participant
      • Posts: 173

      thats kickass setup zac try and get sum of them 3300s that are roar legal that will be better for racing then a 2400

    • #46911
      peedee
      Participant
      • Posts: 418

      yes well if u read the rules (http://www.chargersrc.com) follow the links you would relise that there is no 3300 legal racing batterys the highest is 3000 and that is nimH so i will stay with nicd as my chrger only does nicd i will eventually have a good charger so 3000 will be handy

      Does anyone have any feedback especially VR_4 your allways helpfull

    • #46913
      KingRX7
      Participant
      • Posts: 129

      get a matched pack

    • #46915
      peedee
      Participant
      • Posts: 418

      yea i no some matched sanyos

    • #46922
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      You left out something important… the DRIVER. :p:p

      Experience & car setup knowhow is required.
      A seasoned racer would spank yer shiny :8ball: even
      if he/she only drove a Tamiya Stadium Blitzer and
      gave the newbie a 3 lap headstart.

      Best equipment ain’t everything on the track…
      (but it sure looks good when you come 2nd :blush:)

    • #46927
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      *laughs* That’s so true Panda…

      I’ve had the pleasure of carpark running with one of the local aces here… the guy could make a RadioShack R/C look quick 😉

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #46930
      peedee
      Participant
      • Posts: 418

      doubt it, anyway ive raced touring cars b4 and i aint that bad at offraod..but please a stadium blitzer??

    • #46936
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      ..but please a stadium blitzer??

      Hey, ya dissing the S’Bitser?? :angry:

      Its got ok suspension & drivetrain, give it decent oil shocks
      with full bearings and it can probably do a lot better than
      you think. Its not much removed from a ‘current’ design.

      A Tamiya BLACKFOOT on the other hand…. 👿

      Haha, the ‘slow & steady’ way some pros drive you’d think
      they’re going backwards… yet the lap times don’t lie.

      Offroad racing is pretty different to flat-ground touring cars.
      I think its easier getting a TC adequately around a track, but
      driving buggies needs more thinking to be quick.

    • #46949
      VR-4
      Participant
      • Posts: 400

      remember how to land off jumps. if you give it throtle your noes goes down if you brake your back goes down. landing and turns are key to winning.

      a pro drive can kick his car insted of useing a motor and still beat ya lol

    • #46958
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      I have heard that a matched pack can be worse than loose bought cells.

      You can get a pack of matched ‘duds’ too.

    • #46961
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Yup… the worst cells in every matched batch are
      still “matched”, haha… 👿

      Luckily most of the good battery namebrands aren’t
      stupid enough to try sell these as matched, I’d
      think they’ll just package them into “sport” packs
      and the very worst they’ll resell to industrial
      users.

      There are usually several grades of matched packs
      too… and priced accordingly. Usually the “Team”
      ones are the dearest & with the best numbers.

      However, batteries that have gone thru matching
      also means they’ve been cycled a few times. This
      tests all the cells and makes sure you won’t get
      anything that’s DOA… occasionally that does
      happen if you use raw brandnew cells.

    • #46975
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Wish i could get matched AAA cells for my mini z 🙁 Spose i could do it myself (to a degree) with my charger, but i don’t feel like buying lots of energizer AAA’s at $13 a pair 🙁

      I am going to hardwire the whole thing with thick gauge wire….i.e. Lose the batery clips and friction contacts, the whole thing will be hadwired with Deans plugs to unplug the battery and motor.

    • #46978
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      Do you reckon the hardwiring will make a significant difference Jamie?

      Just curious as I’ve not tried it….

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #46979
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      Yeah i do, friction contacts have high resistance, also, the battery springs use very thin wire, if you stretched the spring out it would be quite long (there are 4 springs too).
      Along with a FET mod it would be good.
      The batteries should be soldered directly, and so should the motor.
      Use low loss deans plugs between the battery and esc, and the esc and motor.

    • #46980
      jamiekulhanek
      Participant
      • Posts: 2563

      So it will be more like a 1/10 sort of thing.
      Battery clips are ok i guess with low grunt motors, but when you start drawing serious Aperage, i think it matters a LOT.

    • #46982
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Those contacts are probably OK up to 1A, maybe even 2A. They don’t heat up much when pumped at those rates. (no prizes now guessing how I charge them…)

      Maybe when you’re trying to draw more than 2A (ie your batteries only last 10 mins) you could try hardwiring, but till then its probably not worth the trouble on a mZ.

      There are other ‘skinny’ hookups in the circuit… like the interconnects inside the motor can and the PCB’s tracks aren’t exactly anything to yell home about.

      otoh… Plazma Dash does suck about 4A…! 😯

Viewing 16 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.