finally got an 02!
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yep, believe it or not i never tried an 02 chassis. but i”m glad i did!
started out as an iw02subaru from the ausmicro shop but i wanted to exploit the mm capabilitiesof the chassis so i made some changes.
iwaver wide wheelset
ausmicro bb”s
3 racing h plate, diff and cambered knuckles
pn racing mm motor mount and s04 motor
kyosho oil shock (no spring), ol pcb, servo saver (stock one was glued!)
firelap mclaren body
woah nelly 1.1
the whole centre of gravity thing is a dream in this setup! only thing i need to work out is the right tyres, i”m trying out a set of the gandini powerfoams that ph2tgave me at the moment.
the firelap body is really nice, not autoscale nice but considering what it”s about to suffer that”s not an issue for me!
what is an issue for me is strength and the firelap bod is a 1 peice shell, no separate window. this will make it more durable than the kyosho. i had an iw gt40 bod which was a 1 peice and it was unbreakable! in fact, it broke whatever it ran into!
there is also a nice vent in the roof that will help cool the motor, i opened it up a little to allow more air through.so for all you kiddies out there wondering whether to get an 01 or an 02 chassis the choice is clear! get an 02! iwaver or kyosho. the mr015 is a nice try, but forget it. just buy the 02 damnit!
why are you not buying an 02 yet??
Edited by – betty.k on 04 August 2005 20:47:02
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i’ve long since upgraded my iw into an mr. it’s all kyosho apart for the aftermarket stuff, the electronics are steady as a rock.
i’ve got it dialed in for my concrete/tarmac surfaces which aren’t too technical so i favour a little understeer.
i like 3deg camber on the front knuckles, the tyres would wear on the outside too much with anything less. it’s currently sporting some 2deg alloys sliding on 3racing kingpins, got some gpm 3deg’s coming.
the atomic dish rims up front are flawless, spinning true after a lot of abuse. they’re wearing 40deg kyosho tyres, i’d like to experiment a little more with front tyre choice. gandini foams ar too grippy, i was getting traction rolls in fast corners. the rubber allows a little give which stops rollovers but creates understeer.
strangely softer tyres grip less than harder ones on my surfaces.
there’s a .5deg toe in tierod there to help with the understeer.
3racing ball diff pushed with a pn racing s04, 9t pinion. this isn’t a really hot setup, batts and motor just get warm never hot. i could probably push it up to a 12 – 14t pinion if i wanted but i’m happy with the speed. it clocks 34kph on the tamiya checker and it’s pretty close to that on the ground with wads of torque to spare.
the gandini foams are the best on the rear. i’ve been experimenting with the different compounds (hard, med, soft) and they all grip brilliantly. the softer ones wear quicker but no faster than the rubber tyres would.
(i go through front tyres faster than rear foams)
kyosho oil shock just for rear end damping, no spring. the hplate gives me all the spring i need.
nelly 1.0, nuff said.
i initially had poor range and major glitching. so i added a 470uf electro cap across the power terminals on the nelly. problem solved.
and that’s my patented “boomerang” (crikey!) shock mount i made from scrap pcb. i thought it was silly having the overhead mount, it’s more prone to flex and the shock is still mounted in exactly the same place as before.
i think my design is simpler, stiffer, cheaper, therefore smarter!
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since i started using the atomic f.r.p. (fiber reinforced plastic) t plates i haven’t looked back. i get the hard mm ones and use the hard spring in them. they’re just as, if not more durable than cf hplates.
i got the idea for the motor cover from ph2t. i just used plastic packaging, cut and bent to shape and held in place with double sided tape. it stops metallic stuff collecting on the motor which happens a lot outdoors.
and finally, i’ve grown quite fond of the mclaren body for it’s looks and wheelbase/track. the blue one is a kyosho autoscale bod, looks pretty but breaks easily.
i gotta say, if i was buying it for a display piece i’d be dissapointed. the exhaust pipes are a little crooked and some of the decals are terrible up close. but i’m gonna smack the piss outta this one so i’m happy!
the ronald mcdonald looking one (which i call “big mac”) is an iwaver bod. it’s plenty strong, thicker plastic and one piece body/window design.
i’m driving the whole thing with my futaba 2pl tx which isn’t much of a big deal but i just bought a pretty new wheel for it so feel the bling! 😎
all in all this is a killer rig, everything it needs and nothing more. race me with it and you better get used to being lapped (just ask ph2t!:smiley2: ):8ball:
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mo’ money mo’ money mo’ money:D
just borrowed ph2t’s hudy micro tyre truer. i had some atomic rear rims that i wanted to put foams on (alloy, plastic white dish). and i got a bag of gq rc products foam donuts for z’s.
the truer is a breeze to use, i had 4 tyres mounted and trued in under 10 minutes. you just gotta use an adequate power supply, at first i tried using a 12v plug pack but it didn’t have the current to spin it fast enough. so i used 2 x 7.2v stick packs in series and it was all systems go!
so now i got me matching alloy rims with my tyre choice all around.:smiley14:
i was also breaking the front body clip too often so i got an atomic alloy one for mclaren bods. fits well and does what it’s supposed to.
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