Firelap Nanoracer 2.0

[Dangerous Dave]

just got mine, extremely impressed 😀

ridiculous value for money, the Transmitter is worth it alone.

I’m sure the Kyosho MR02 and Iwaver IW02M are better again, but they cost many times more.

And I’m sure there are other posts about this same car, but at least this one is recent 😉

Buy one :smiley16:

[diehard]

i thought that the firelap would have been better then the iwaver. i dunno…..

[Dangerous Dave]

already modded it, lowered the body front n rear..

packed the gear diff with stiff grease for a bit more LSD action, running the largest 9t pinion.

bearings and an I-Plus motor to come :smiley16:

[klims]

how much did you pay for it? do you know is they make chassis versions?

[Dangerous Dave]

unfortunately ausmicro shop doesn’t list them anymore, so I got mine elsewhere.

The entire RTR package (minus batteries) goes for only US$50 !!

I haven’t seen a chassis only version, but at this price you wouldn’t bother.

The Tx is fully digital and programmable with all the fruit.

No brakes on the car (even though the Tx has ABS function) but I just wound down the reverse EPA to act as a brake.

As for Firelap being better than Iwaver, as far as I know it is the same as the IW02. The IW02M is a different, more advanced/expensive car.
Same as the Kyosho MR02M??

[Pork_Hunt]

Hey Dangerous, could you check out for me how many wires the steering servo has, is it three or four?

[Dangerous Dave]

easily done !

4 wires
+/- steering motor wires
2 pot wires

now we both know!

it’s not a separate servo like the IW02M

[Pork_Hunt]

Cheers man

[klims]

have you tried to use the transmitter on any other cars? i tried to use mine on my micro-t but noticed significantly lower range. strange…

[Dangerous Dave]

I haven’t, but a mate has, no problems as far as I know.

[Dangerous Dave]

here’s my latest addition.

The fibreglass material came from a busted 1/12 T bar.

The end thickness is ideal, but I had to sculpt the centre section for the correct thickness and shape.

My aim was to retain a bit of up/down stiffness while having a fair bit of roll.
Hard to spot in the pic, the edges are much thinner than the centreline. I gave it a kinda pointed elipse cross sectional shape.

It makes the car much more predictable, with a more progressive oversteer.
The stock plastic H plate was also tweaked, this one is flat as 😀

Was fun to make, and very happy with the handling result.

[Dangerous Dave]

here’s what the I-Plus motor is capable of with stock FETs..

this is with a free running ball bearing chassis, 4 cells and 8T pinion on smooth ‘crete

toasty

[Dangerous Dave]

@klims 226217 wrote:

how much did you pay for it? do you know is they make chassis versions?

I just found these..

http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_73&products_id=525&zenid=fc9dc50d51f66a2e6192195c8c165012

Chassis only kits WITH electronics.

mine is in the post 😀

[Renton]

Does anyone have one of these transmitters they might want to sell?

[klims]

nice work dangerous dave!

couldn’t help but notice that the version for sale is not the one with the servo unit for steering that plugs into the body electronics. i thought that the nanoracer was the model with the steering servo unit? if its not which one is it???

[Dangerous Dave]

the one with the plugs and separate swappable servo is the IW02M. It also comes with the rear roll shock suspension, supposedly better FETs and an FM radio.

The replacement one in the link is for the NanoRacer 2.0, same as the old IW02 car and almost an exact physical clone of the Kyosho MR02.

Needless to say, I have replacement FETs ready to stack as soon as the chassis arrives… courtesy of the Ausmicro shop 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

new PCB in, 3×2 stacked FETs and Iwaver I-Plus motor = cracked bodyshell AHAHAHAHAHAHA..

fast enough for now, until I get me some of them foam rear tyres for drivability 😉

I remember stating here ages ago that I wasn’t interested in this scale…

[klims]

and i remember you saying it 😉

yeah the I-plus is alright, but don’t waste your time. just go all the way and go for a I-pro. MASSIVE power! if i remember correctly they were about 17t. don’t last that long though. i bought 4 at about $7 so it still pays off i guess. also not sure if a stack will cope. i ran it with a spider.

[Dangerous Dave]

I need more rear traction rather than power right now 😉

I already have an Atomic Neo bb can, so might try the Plasmatomic option hehehe

[Dangerous Dave]

In keeping with my trend of being years behind the :8ball: , I have just installed a Plasmatomic hybrid motor in the NanoRacer (with 3×2 FET stack).
It’s pushing an alloy 10T pinion.
This motor is phenomenal.
Again, many praises to Ph2t for pioneering the Plasmatomic.

I now have a busted H plate from clipping a curb at ridiculous speed, lucky I have spares!
And I have no desires to go for 7.4V LiPo batteries, this thing is almost too fast on 4 cells…

I have noticed that my steering power disappears under throttle, so the next mod will be a Steering Turbo using the original motor FETs.
Will put up another rambling post when I get that done.

PS the Iwaver I-Plus motor was fast, but it only lasted a few runs before it chewed out its comm and the brass brushes snapped off. Cheap thrill.

[klims]

really? mine lasted ages! someone told me they have problems with QC. i guess they were right.

as for the lipos, for me its all about the accelleration. nothing beats lipos for that. if you dont wanna be going fast just gear it down. but be warned, you’ll never look back 😉

[ph2t]

@Dangerous Dave 226360 wrote:

In keeping with my trend of being years behind the :8ball: , I have just installed a Plasmatomic hybrid motor in the NanoRacer (with 3×2 FET stack).
It’s pushing an alloy 10T pinion.
This motor is phenomenal.
Again, many praises to Ph2t for pioneering the Plasmatomic.

I now have a busted H plate from clipping a curb at ridiculous speed, lucky I have spares!
And I have no desires to go for 7.4V LiPo batteries, this thing is almost too fast on 4 cells…

I have noticed that my steering power disappears under throttle, so the next mod will be a Steering Turbo using the original motor FETs.
Will put up another rambling post when I get that done.

PS the Iwaver I-Plus motor was fast, but it only lasted a few runs before it chewed out its comm and the brass brushes snapped off. Cheap thrill.

lol, it’s great to see that 2 years on and the plasmatomic is still owning concrete driveways everywhere!

Dave, just make sure you have seated the bearing in the endbell deep enough to prevent any biding from the larg(ish) plasmadash armature in the ATOMIC can. This is the #1 source of plasmatomic build woes.

Just out of interest are you running neo’s or the original plasma dash ferrites? (The plasma dash ferrites are the strongest ferrites I’ve come across). By the sounds of a 10t pinion you’re running neos. Try 6t pinion and ferrites, the speed is crazy as well!

Also, the steering drop under accel is iwaver way of things. Using a small motor drive IC instead of a proper MOSFET h-bridge is what causes the slow steering. It’s just not efficient enough so when a lot of the current goes to the drive motor the ineffeciencies show through.

If you want I have a kyosho PCB I could sell you for cheaps….PM me if interested…..

Good stuff!

ph2t.

[Dangerous Dave]

I made sure the endbell bearing recess was deep enough for the bearing (it’s in your tutorial haha).

No neo mags, and am actually running the ferrites outta the wrecked I-Plus motor. They are much thicker than the Plasma items, and even if they were a little weaker, I’m working on the magnetic distance vs force quadratic relationship, hoping it will be the stronger option.
Will probably try the Plasma mags at some stage, but this thing has pretty good torque even with the 10T.

I have begun work on my own steering H bridge, using the 2 original motor drive FETs. If I get it compact enough, I may be able to fit it under the PCB cover. The L9110 chip will be coming out of course 😉

Back to the subject of motors, I couldn’t help but notice that lovely fat comm on the Plasma Dash. I’m now wondering if the low rated Dash motors (Speed Dash etc) have the same comm, and would they be a great mild modified motor for Mini Zs?
They do seem to have a different endbell design though.
And I’m also talking lower rating than the Uber Dash 😉

[ph2t]

Sorry mate, been there done that. Only the plasma has the freakishy large comm. 🙁

[Dangerous Dave]

yeah I went back and checked your UberDash tutorial for a comparison..

I could resurrect the I-Plus by pinching a comm off a stock motor

[brycevr]

Just got my Firelap Nanoracer 2.0.
I am very impressed. Not quite auto scale body quality but the chassis feels great and the radio is brilliant. I set it up to use with my Mini-Z F1 and have had no problem at all. The fine tuning of the radio makes the F1 more driveable too. The Firelap chassis impresses me but I’ll know more when I get an MR02 to compare to. So far It seems fairly well made and comes with a RM motor pod as well. I’ve ordered another one so I can hot this one up and keep a reference unit to quantify any mods as I do them.
Value for money is A++
Which Turbo a Nelly or a Spider IV?

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