hand wound motors
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- This topic has 17 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 20 years, 3 months ago by mocky.
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January 10, 2004 at 11:36 pm #11989
i just built 2 motors and im trying 2 record the sound they make casue one of them sounds like 4 or 5 motors spinning casue of the sound it produced the other got so hot it melted the solder i used which was 62% tin 36% lead and 2% silver… i was surprised it melted theough that it melted the plastic of the end and the plastic in the comm. after only a muniet of running at 9 volts. i should check the current its drawing
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January 21, 2004 at 8:00 pm #49270
I’ve had that problem too,my solution get a gearbox cover which has a metal bearing or a motor case and a cover with roller bearings in em.Use the standard 60/40 Rosin core.What type of armatures u use, got these longer ones from Auldey mini 4wd and it absolutely screams.U in the sydney area?I’ve been looking for some hardcore motor winders.
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January 21, 2004 at 9:08 pm #49273
nah im in melbourne… i get random spares from the local “scaletrix” guys… i also use crappy “hobby” motor armatures.. mainly casue there hard to find in melbourne … ive tryed all ova the place for breaing cans…. but im gonna have 2 get them from dinball
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January 22, 2004 at 2:35 am #49279
im in sydeny,armatures are also rare here.see the bearing case at dinball with the orange cover,its actaully an auldey product.if u have a friend in china they only cost like 3 bucks.They have 5 kinds of armature aswell.So auldey are really cheap but oddly high quality.You prolly make something about a NML motor for about one sixth of the price.
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January 22, 2004 at 4:02 pm #49281
yeh ive gotten some fast motors.. but im struggling 2 get any faster. wat the best combo uve had.. eg. wire thikness, nuber of turn, etc etc… what brushes do u prefer. i got some that arre from germany and thats all i no.. there really good
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January 22, 2004 at 4:57 pm #49282
im struggling to get any motors faster too.i need NdFe-Br magnets and a new bbcanand wire thickness too,damn jaycar doesnt have enough variety.But wat i used is pretty simple,use a longer armature with a copper top commuter,0.315mm wire with 13winds per pole in the pyramid pattern.Using a metal bearing not bb can and finally silver brushes.
Not sure how to measure the out capacity,dont have an ammeter or and test equipment. -
January 22, 2004 at 8:42 pm #49285
my best is using 20 winds with .2
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January 22, 2004 at 11:21 pm #49288
closest i have to u is 0.215,if u use a thicker wire u’ll definitely be faster but ur batteries will die in less than 15 minutes is ur directly connected 2 1800mah nimh batteries to it.ive tried,the armature gets superhot, to the point u’d be better running ur hand under hot water
Edited by – mocky on 22 January 2004 18:25:00
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January 22, 2004 at 11:33 pm #49289
yeh ive had them unwind casue the solder melts casue they get 2 hot
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January 25, 2004 at 1:50 am #49293
maybe u need more solder or different type of solder.What thickness or wire is available in ur area?
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January 25, 2004 at 1:55 am #49294
basicaly everything…. i use 40/60.. and i solder them good trust me. its more the fact the thermometer measured 240 which means inside would have been hotter.. the com was melted and so was the bell end i had on
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January 25, 2004 at 4:49 am #49295
“all hail king of winders……….”
wow 240 is heaps,wat did u use to measure it,my thermometre doesnt even reach that temp.thats pretty darn crazy.i got a metal end so it doesnt melt.if it melts u start hearing a scraping,means the armature is grinding ur magnets 😀 but get a cover with a metal bearing,should fix it.The com melted!!!
I have to hand it to u,thats just magnificent tuning,power with no boundaries.Ive never got that far,i got an upgraded armature com base is made of a polyceramic material,doesnt melt.But the actual com itself has a deep grove in it.its spins friggin fast it begins to wear,its very noticeable,wen i get a better digicam i’ll show u. -
January 25, 2004 at 2:56 pm #49298
lol thnx… i use a thermoprobe on my multimeter.. yeh i think it only got so hot casue of the crapy ends plus the crappy com/brush had alot of friction. but it was hooked up 2 a power supply not batteries so i cant find out how hot the batteries would have got..yeh the armature i used was a crappy “hobby motor” one so they have a tendancy to be crap. after that. im goign out 2 get some decent part so i can get a motor that is acculy useful for weither my mini z or xmod.. im thinking of my xmod casue i got a crappy diff in the mini z n dont wanna blow it wearas all the parts in my xmod r carbon or all (just drive train parts)
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January 25, 2004 at 3:35 pm #49300
i think a miniz is better, just get a ball diff,then it rips xmods in all areas except 4wd drifitng.miniz’s are fast too.i was think about getting motor parts, auldey would have the best and cheapest parts,but dificult to obtain
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January 28, 2004 at 11:02 pm #49373
Mocky: Where can i get hold of those poly ceramic commutator and brushes????
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January 29, 2004 at 3:32 am #49378
i wish i could help u but i have to tell u its overseas.Auldey stuff ,the packaging even says sale only in mainloand china.its a rare find,if only i bought more back.carbon brushes can be obtained from some hobby stock motors,sometimes have normal brushes.But i got mine from a crush gear,which is a battle bot on 4 wheels if uve never seen them.
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January 29, 2004 at 1:54 pm #49380
wat local hobby shop are u talking about.. mine are a RC car specialesit place and they didnt even know u could get BB cans.. i must admit they have good brushes they sell me
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January 29, 2004 at 11:41 pm #49381
u cant bbcans here.i was talking about brushes.
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