Heat sink lip keeps snapping

[Mut1ey]

Anyone have advice on how to either avoid this or strengthen the lip?

I change my motors over occasionally, but I have ended up snapping the lip that the heatsink clips under on a couple of occasions. It the plastic rectangle at the back of the car – the bit that slips into the body shell. I’ve knackered two machines this way. I’m thinking there is either a technique for repositioning the heatsink or a way to re-enforce the plastic lip.

Any takers?

Mutters

[micro_Amps]

Mutters, try bending the heatsink tab a little so it doesnt exert so much force on the plastic at the back of the chassis. Other than that, just be careful I suppose.
You cant really glue anything onto it because it slips into the body shell. Id be interested to hear anybodys suggestions for repairing these.
:)uA

[barto_85]

I think brendan has had the same problem, but his is only since he used the perfection heatsink. He was wanting to know a method of fixing it, is there a way?

[Mut1ey]

I tried superglue yesterday – yet to try it out.

When I say it snapped, it would be more accurate to say it split. If you hold the front of the chassis in finger and thumb the clip looks like a letter “n”. It split down the middle, making it look like a letter “m”. It hasn’t snapped off or anything. It makes the motor not sit too well.

Is this the same problem as yourselves?

Mut

[ph2t]

Mut, this is the exact same problem I have, I’m still trying to find a solution. We’re not all as precise at Micro_amps! :p

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 21 August 2003 06:16:06

[KingRX7]

my brother put his body on back to front or whatever and it knocked the heat sink clip thing off so now i have to tape it on:angry:

[jamiekulhanek]

Always use the tomy tool to remove the heatsink, we all have atleast 1/2 a dozen of these.

[Mut1ey]

I’ve never heard of a Tomy tool. What is it, how does it work and where can I get one?

Mutters

[brendan]

I got the gold perfection heat sink and a 4.2 motor from ph2t (im not blaming him) and it just pops out all the time and i comaperd the 4.2 motor 2 a tomy motor and the 4.2 is bigger than the tomy motor. than the heat sink snapped the tab down the middle and it never use to happen as much. even when used the origional motor and heat sink it still happend then after a while i put the heat sink in with the tomy motor and they would pop out staright away. And not to long befor i got the heat sink and motor i got a perfection 1.3 v mah battry and it said you get minuim 400 chargs but i dont reckon i even got a hundred out of it so im blaming perfection, so im never going to get any more perfection stuff ever again because my car doesnt work any more because the tab is just screwed i have tried super glue but it just doesnt work. so this is a warning to any new people out there thinking of getting any perfection stuff well dont get it.

PERFECTION STUFF SUCKS DONT GET IT

The size differnence isnt much but it it enough for it to pop out.

This picture might be a bit dark but u might be able to see the white bit were the tab is really weak.

This is a good picture but it might be a bit dark you can cleary see that the tab has split.

Edited by – brendan123 on 21 August 2003 20:04:50

[merc-blue]

dude perfection stuff is fine u just bend the heat sink clip bit in a bit puts less pressure on the chassis

[brendan]

Well i still dont trust em becasue of my motor, heatsink and battry.

[Tazzy]

I lowerd my car by makeing the slot thicker and the hole a little bigger. Guess that would fix your problem?

[brendan]

do u have any pics.

[barto_85]

Quote:

I’ve never heard of a Tomy tool. What is it, how does it work and where can I get one?

Mutters

When you buy a body set, it comes with a selection of tools in the back, the main bar which removes the body and the heatsink. And there are some bit racer things for the guiderail track thingies.

[Mut1ey]

Body set like Tune up? Like Skyline History? Like a body shell?

I didn’t get any thangs with my Automodellista set.

[leonli17]

the Perfection Motors will fit the Bit Char-A Precious chassis. u can see the front end of the motor is different. if u want it to fit a bit char-g chassis u have to sand off bits until it fits.

[Tazzy]

I could make some pictures but there’s not a lot to be seen.

I made a copied U-formed heatsink thingy and super glued it underneat the original tab.

A rough guess would be that the original tab is about 1mm thick, with the extra piece glued to it it’s about 1,4mm thick. Next thing you have to do is make the slot a fraction bigger to make it fit again.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

I’ve never heard of a Tomy tool. What is it, how does it work and where can I get one?

Mutters

If you buy a Bit Char-G body set, you will get a tomy tool, It has a pinion puller, body remover, heatsink remover and a couple of other things, including a lanyard clip thingy.

[ph2t]

Yeah, there’s a few things on the tool that I don’t know what they do.

I know the following functions:

1) Shell removal via front hook.
2) Heatsink removal via indented tab.
3) Motor pinon removal via slide.

ph2t.

[Admin]

ditto for the tomy tool!

[Impreza]

Mut1ey, Body shell(s).

Most ship with a painted and clear one.

http://www.tomy.co.jp/bit_charg/products/parts/parts.htm

GM-05-07 show the set of 2 plus the tool.

Sry bout the Japanese, but I thought I would go straight to the source:)

[Mut1ey]

Imprezza

Thanks, but am I missing something? Following the link, these just look like double ended bubble blowers –

O–O

How does one of these help you get anything off a car?

Muts

[Impreza]

Sorry Mut1ey, my bad. Click on the 4th row of green writing under that picture. And then scroll down. If you still can’t see it (grey) I will post it in my members gallery for you:)

[Mut1ey]

Thanks Impreza, I see em now. These things really work do they? You’ve never split the clip using em?

Mutter-Lee

[Admin]

Gentlemen,

To fix the split lip … try this.

Drill a very small hole on either side of the slot. Use a small bit … I found one at the hardware store in a hand drill in the welding supply area. Not sure what the drill is used for but within the drill handle are a bunch of small drill bits … about the size of ones used to drill holes for PCBs. The hand drill looks like an Exacto knife.

Anyway … put a wire through the holes and twist to bring the split together.

NOW, if you drill too far forward then the body will not go on and if you drill too far back the heatsink lip will catch the wire (or not go in at all).

I have not tried my own advice, as I have not split the lip on any chassis, yet.

Another option would be to use JB Weld … this is strong FRILLIN’ stuff. I have never had any use for superglue.

(I hope the Aussies out there can appreciate the Farscape reference above.)

Later.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Yeah, there’s a few things on the tool that I don’t know what they do.

I know the following functions:

1) Shell removal via front hook.
2) Heatsink removal via indented tab.
3) Motor pinon removal via slide.

ph2t.

Yes, there is those three handy things, and also a small clip thing that protrudes out the side which is used for Bit/Kitt racers.

The best thing to do is, when you get a bit char-g, bend the heatsink in slightly, so you wont have this problem.

[Impreza]

Mut1ey, I have not had this happen to me yet… The tool does help but on a tight heatsink, I would have to agree with jamie, carefully bend the heatsink to fit with a pair of needlenose pliers once you have it out of your body.

[Mut1ey]

ok, I’ve got a Tomy tool.

Here’s the scene this morning. Brand new GTR Pennzoil Special Ed. Use the tool to remove the lip…..and……….snap!!!

When I look at the other machine that this happened on recently it is, another GTR Special Ed.

I guess that Tomy produced a bad batch or production standards have dropped or I’m just damn unlucky and its all a coindidence.

Muttering Mutters (cursing as well)

[Impreza]

Sorry to hear that Mut1ey, murph’s law??

[Author]

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