HEY jamiekulhanek
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- This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 20 years, 4 months ago by jamiekulhanek.
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December 9, 2003 at 2:11 pm #11944
hey jamiekulhanek u seem 2 know everything there is to know about mini zs… i wanna get mine into a raceable condition.. al it is now is a ready set with carbon h plates and rear roll shocks… what u recon i should put in to make it raceable…. im thinking, bearings , ball diff, plasma dash, turbo, new tyres…. sound good??? also whats sort of fettage (how many.. n stuff) is therre in a turbo????
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December 12, 2003 at 5:43 am #48601
Hey,
Firstly, i dont know everything there is to know about mini z’s, still learning with experimentation.
The first question to ask yourself is: Do I want a car that is fun and reliable, or do i want a car that is fast and more high maintenence???
If you are like me and chose the latter, the best thing to do is start with a basic car and upgrade the handling and balance of the car. Start with ball bearings, carbon H plates ( you already have these) and a ball diff. A ball diff can significantly reduce the car’s tendency to break rear traction, it kinda works like a crude launch control/LSD. all other suspension bits are non essential but do help, make sure you don’t weigh your car down though, use alloy sparingly! i.e. no alloy battery clips, front suspension bulkhead etc. Tyre choice is also important, and is directly proportional to the surface you run on. i.e. use soft tyres on rougher, grippier surfaces like tarmak/asphalt, and use harder tyres on smoothe concrete.
Once you have set up your car, let the fun begin….
Start by either a FET mod or a turbo, FET mods are usually better but installation is not nearly as simple as a bolt on turbo. A FET mod can handle more current, therefore feed a more powerful motor. A 6×2 stack of fets is the biggest you can fit inside the chassis, and can handle a 5 cell setup with a plasma dash.
Due to the huge power demand on 5 cells, the battery clips tend to overheat, hardwiring the cells and using a deans type R/C connector will stop this and feed a substancial amount more power, due to the low resistance.
As with all good things there is a tradeoff, runtimes of around 10-15 minutes are to be expected, a motor rebuild every 6-10 runs (just polish the commutator with brasso) is necessary.
hope this helps.
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December 12, 2003 at 2:24 pm #48606
cool sounds good i have also been looking at motor conditioning but runing it and submerging it… wats the deal with this???
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December 12, 2003 at 5:22 pm #48608
just makes a better contact between the brushes and commutator so it gives you more power and better motor life.
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