HORNET/GH ROOM

[jamiekulhanek]

This room is for Tamiya Super Hornet/ Grasshopper 1/2 owners.

What non standard parts have u guys got in your cars??

[PandaBear]

Quote:

What non standard parts have u guys got in your cars??

After Saturday’s little incident…

– Hot melt glue
– Araldite epoxy
– silver gaffer tape
– non-original tyres
– DuBro steering rods

:):p:)

Began life as an original Grasshopper + Hornet, rest of it now is pretty much all Tamiya… just not from the GH & H box. :smiley2:

eg:
– SuperHornet 2″ rear wheels
– 2.2″ front wheels
– body borrowed from a SuperSabre

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Quote:

What non standard parts have u guys got in your cars??

After Saturday’s little incident…

– Hot melt glue
– Araldite epoxy
– silver gaffer tape
– non-original tyres
– DuBro steering rods

:):p:)

Began life as an original Grasshopper + Hornet, rest of it now is pretty much all Tamiya… just not from the GH & H box. :smiley2:

eg:
– SuperHornet 2″ rear wheels
– 2.2″ front wheels
– body borrowed from a SuperSabre

hehehe after yesterdays incident I managed to smash the front of the chassis and the front of the shell, and break the servo horn off due to a flat tx battery blackeye:

Mine has full bb’s, a kyosho mega 14×2 motor, and non original radio gear (50A MOSFET esc etc.)

Now it has:

-Poly cement 🙂
-Zip ties :p
-Metal pins holding suspension together :smiley2:

It still runs the original tyres which are pushing 10 yrs :D:D

As you may now only too well panda, the GH/SH is a fragile beast, especially when given a bucketload of power :dead:

Panda- I need your professional opinion, I am looking for an ELECTRIC buggy for general purpose use (ie club racing (just for fun)) that i can race on the road and take off road, it has to be EXTREMELY durable, reasonably priced, I would prefer 4wd but will settle with 2wd (or a car that can be converted) it also needs good tech support and good parts availability,

can you help me make a choice??

[jamiekulhanek]

Oh btw do you know any AUSTRALIAN r/c car forums that are any good??

[PandaBear]

Quote:

…I am looking for an ELECTRIC buggy for general purpose use (ie club racing (just for fun)) that i can race on the road and take off road, it has to be EXTREMELY durable, reasonably priced, I would prefer 4wd but will settle with 2wd (or a car that can be converted) it also needs good tech support and good parts availability.

The only one by far for decent parts availability is Tamiya.

Their only buggy in Oz at the moment is the Baja Champ & Baja King, both are based on TL01B chassis. Shaftdrive 4WD, pretty darned tough chassis (built like a tank) and is first cousins to the TL01 touring car – can be converted narrower although probably not worth buying the parts separately to do it. The Bajas can be found for under A$200 (kit only) if you’re lucky. (RCCA magazine Review of Baja King)

Tamiya has recently previewed a new 2-belt-drive offroader (their 1st for about 10+ yrs, if one ignores the TL01B), but not many details are known yet.

Kyosho Zaboon came out recently probably worth a look too, think they’re around the A$250-300 mark. Kyosho parts supply is OK, but isn’t usually too cheap. Can also probably find some remaining Oz stock of the previous Kyosho Lazer Alpha/Sport/etcetc kits for a song but parts supply will be in decline… simplest to just buy a 2nd kit for spares if you find these older models.

On the tracks, you’ll find high-end 4WDs like the Losi XX4 and Schumacher CAT3000.

There’s not many 2WD buggies about these days. On the tracks you’ll find the Associated RC10B3 and now the B4 just out is big news, but these are serious racing buggies; T3 is the “truck” version ditto the Losi XXX & XXX-T. At the bottom end the Traxxas & Duratrax brandnames are getting popular (but dunno where parts are sold) but I think Kyosho’s base Ultima RB/RT are a better bet.

…And how about a touring-car-sized Rally Car?? :smiley16:

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Kyosho Zaboon came out recently probably worth a look too, think they’re around the A$250-300 mark. Kyosho parts supply is OK, but isn’t usually too cheap. Can also probably find some remaining Oz stock of the previous Kyosho Lazer Alpha/Sport/etcetc kits for a song but parts supply will be in decline… simplest to just buy a 2nd kit for spares if you find these older models.

Quote:

HA!!!! I have a Kyosho laser ZX Sport sitting about 10 metres away from me right this second. It is my brothers, and he has no interest in completing it. It is an old thing, but in A1 condition. I might give him an offer, what are they worth today?? I think dad payed some ridiculus amount for it many years ago.

Quote:

Their only buggy in Oz at the moment is the Baja Champ & Baja King, both are based on TL01B chassis. Shaftdrive 4WD, pretty darned tough chassis (built like a tank) and is first cousins to the TL01 touring car – can be converted narrower although probably not worth buying the parts separately to do it. The Bajas can be found for under A$200 (kit only) if you’re lucky. (RCCA magazine Review of Baja King)

Quote:

Yeah i was looking at a TL01 on-road chassis a while ago, was very interested, but gave it a miss. I have decided i want a vehicle i can drive anywhere.

I only want a kit cause my old man has boxes full of radio equiptment, mostly ‘tartan’ japanese bb servos etc. etc. and i think i can settle with a kyosho perfex tx…

Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 25 June 2003 22:24:37

[PandaBear]

Quote:

HA!!!! I have a Kyosho laser ZX Sport sitting about 10 metres away from me right this second. It is my brothers, and he has no interest in completing it. It is an old thing, but in A1 condition. I might give him an offer, what are they worth today?? I think dad payed some ridiculus amount for it many years ago.

If you’re anything like *my* kid brother, you’d have long ago just walked over, grabbed it and just declared “Its Mine”. :dead:

Talking of ridiculous amts for Kyoshos, just did just that on an old Lazer Alpha kit few weeks ago. I had change from a green-bill, but I think you must be referring to ridiculous at the other end of the scale? :p

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Yeah i was looking at a TL01 on-road chassis a while ago, was very interested, but gave it a miss. I have decided i want a vehicle i can drive anywhere.

Oh you can drive them anywhere. The *only* place I haven’t seen a TL01 run is… at the track. 🙂

Certainly there are heaps that turn up, but honestly I haven’t seen one run… but hey, lots I’ve helped fix everywhere and I was probably too busy doing other stuff to watch them circulate. Chassis or other parts breakage is very rare on these tanks, they’re heavy but plenty solid.

And if you’re waiting for star-appeal… let’s just say GLENN RIDGE’s own son (looks like the kid from Jerry McGuire) has a TL01.

Plus Circus-Oz has one too… built as a ‘cyber dog’. Hey, if a Clown can build & drive the thing… :smiley2::smiley2::smiley2:

[GT-ahh]

lmao i remember when my mate destroyed the front end of his RC, the susspension struts were toast, I fixed it by screwing/bashing/welding together a metal triangular frame and grafting this into the front end, It works good but if it runs into your ankle you’ll need to see a doctor….

[SurfmyStrat]

i like to mess around with buggies, and personally i would suggest a team associated b3 or b4, my friend has a b4 and i had a b3 and i tell ya… i jumped my b3 into trees, over a 16 foot tall ditch into a rock and 40 miles an hour into a cars hubcap… and until it hit the hubcap that thing rode awesome… parts are super easy to get and the car i think for its quality is reasonably priced. The b4, its not worst then the b3. and im sure if you have the time and some parts you could convert them to 4 wd.:D gl

[PandaBear]

Unfortunately Associated stuff is NOT cheap in Australia. Nice cars, great for the racetrack, but think a new B4 will probably set you back A$600+ for kit alone.

[jamiekulhanek]

LOL My current car is a weak piece of sh1t, i was going moderately fast and hit a wire fence, the front of the car is all crunched in and the susp wishbones are hanging off.

Yeah panda, ridiculus was about 600 or so big ones.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

LOL My current car is a weak piece of sh1t, i was going moderately fast and hit a wire fence, the front of the car is all crunched in and the susp wishbones are hanging off.

NOW you understand why we just go restore these old things
and then just plonk them for display on the shelf… 😀
(that slightly-used chassis tub came off brother’s restoration victim)

At least GH2 uses SuperHornet tub, so that’s still available.
(if you want I can go buy you a new one from the local store)
Or better still, just go buy a whole new SH kit… $140?
No such luck for the older cousins.

[jamiekulhanek]

Nah i dont want any parts because i can fix it, i will cut the front off my OLD gh chassis and put it on the one you gave me, a few bits of fibreglass and a few bolts should make it good as new.

I almost regret spending my dough on this thing, but it is a bit of fun. It really needs a lock diff because it rolls so much it lifts the inside rear off the ground and the car barely moves.

[jamiekulhanek]

On the weekend i took my GH2 for a spin. The surface was wet and slippery, and i lost it….and smashed it into a pole, totally smashing the fron of the car in, and making the ‘A’ arms hang off. Ive now fixed it, but the plastic ‘chips’ havent been glued back in place so it looks evil :evil::evil::evil::evil::evil::evil::evil::evil: :p

Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 07 July 2003 11:18:34

[Nismospeed]

hey all….
i should be recieving my hopper 2 soon….
and from waht ive heard its a solid car….i dont think its really fragile……im sure it could take a beating….if it was looked after propley….the one im getting is near new….only thee body is a bit scratched
cheers
dan

[Aaron]

The best advice I can offer when it comes to taking a first run with a used car.

Be smooth and careful… if there are any loose bits they’ll show up pretty much in that first run….The check everything after that run and voila!

--
Site Owner Guy.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

hey all….
i should be recieving my hopper 2 soon….
and from waht ive heard its a solid car….i dont think its really fragile……im sure it could take a beating….if it was looked after propley….the one im getting is near new….only thee body is a bit scratched
cheers
dan

Welcome to the BBS, Dan.

Maybe you can meet up with Jamie and race him… :):)

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

hey all….
i should be recieving my hopper 2 soon….
and from waht ive heard its a solid car….i dont think its really fragile……im sure it could take a beating….if it was looked after propley….the one im getting is near new….only thee body is a bit scratched
cheers
dan

Yes wills, mr. Dawson goes to my school (Newstead College)

Daniel, the GH2 isnt solid at all. Wills (PandaBear) and I know only too well how un-durable it is.

:dead:

[jamiekulhanek]

The only part that i would say *IS* solid is the drivetrain. The front of the car is very succeptible to damage.

[PandaBear]

… that might explain why our junk box contains
so many Hornet gearbox assemblies, all in pristine
working condition. 🙂

Hmm… starting to think of what wierd projects
a Hornet gearbox can be used for… how about:-
-rail dragster?
-craft a new chassis out of FRP plate & aluminium?
-2x4x6x8… “stretch” Grasshopper?? 😀

[Nismospeed]

if you look after it right then it will hold….jamie you sound like you must really take you cars to the limit…..ive never raced before..i just use mine for fun

[jamiekulhanek]

Well mine had a fair bit of power, and bald tyres. Couple that combo with the fact that it doesn’t handle and you might get a faint inkling into why i crash.

OR maybe it’s just the driver.

Panda….good idea, just need to lock the diff and she’ll be sweet. Might make something cool with it, dunno how much power it can handle. I was thinking maybe twin motors (somehow) with a motor on the other side of the gearbox, with the 2 motor shafts locked into the same pinion.

The GH2 is an ageing chassis, the plastic will be more brittle than when it was born.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

I was thinking maybe twin motors…

Is it just me getting too old or would be fair to assume
the GH doesn’t really *need* any more power… :D:D

540 is rated to pump out 0.05hp I think.
(That’s about ~35W?)

If one really demanded more power, how about dropping in a
Novak SS brushless system… that’s rated at 196W. 👿

Hmm… project Froghopper… 😯

[Nismospeed]

yeah i agree,
it dont need any more power…considering it comes standard with a 380 stock….no wonder you have a bit handeling it…14×2 and bald tyres,
anybody kno’s thats a bad combo….get some new tyres and it will be fine…i kno..i used run bald tyres on my car and it was hard to handel…then i got new one’s and ive lost count of how many times ive traction rolled it…
dan
ps should have me hopper monday….yeah

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Quote:

I was thinking maybe twin motors…

Is it just me getting too old or would be fair to assume
the GH doesn’t really *need* any more power… :D:D

540 is rated to pump out 0.05hp I think.
(That’s about ~35W?)

If one really demanded more power, how about dropping in a
Novak SS brushless system… that’s rated at 196W. 👿

Hmm… project Froghopper… 😯

Only 35 watts?? I think some 540’s have a bit more power than that…. closer to 100 watts.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Only 35 watts?? I think some 540’s have a bit more power than that…. closer to 100 watts.

Ahh… talking the “standard” Mabuchi RS540SH here… 🙂

Above was only ruff-as-gutz calc, based upon equivalent
Johnson 05 is rated at “0.05 horsepower” (thus the name)
and 1hp = ~700W…? (can’t remember exact figs).

Anyway, this is what the factory says:

RS-540SH/SF (model 5045)
OPERATING RANGE 4.5 – 12.0
NOMINAL (COMMUTATOR POSITION) 12(CCW+)
NO LOAD Speed/Current 17500rpm 0.95A
AT MAX EF 15080rpm 5.93A Torque 31.8N/m 324g/cm 50.1W
STALL 230N/m 2345g/cm 37.0A

So yeah, it does 50.1W if run on 12V… :p

Assuming linear power/V relationship, if we run it at
7.2V that should give us 7.2/12 X 50.1W = 36W.

Wahey, whaddya know… :smiley2:

[Nismospeed]

mmmm good calculations……
some of the hotter motors push out nearly 300wats of power….damn thats alot of power….

[PandaBear]

Umm… “300W” is probably pushing it. 🙂

@ 7.2V the craziest 6 turns are pushing about
240-250W as a max… and these motors are only
good for about 3 runs before they cark it.

And as P = V x I = Revs x Torque…
1) they’re revvers, they make P with lots of revs
2) might get that @ 12V… but it’ll just selfdestruct even quicker

Funnily enough… RC motors aren’t very efficient.
Race motors are designed more for drivability…
a motor designer/builder could possibly draw one
up that produces lots of power on paper by using
maximum efficiency, but it’ll be very sluggish
off the mark with a very heavy fully-filled armature.

Crazy single-turn mods have lightweight arms with
less wire than you’d think… for faster response.
Not very efficient, but they make it up in revs.
These days the batteries are more than enough to
finish a race, so motor designers trade up a lot
of efficiency for better pickup instead.

[VR-4]

yeah i got the 9turn quad phantom and reading the dyno now and its 252.3w @7.2 and if you use hard brushes after 5 runs the com needs to be cut.

i like mid to low turns with high winds for onroad and low winds for off road. only prob is you eat brushes and its hell on your cars parts.

what motor did they use in the 100+mph rc10 oval car? i know it was a reedy i hurd it was a 16 turn but not shure

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Quote:

Only 35 watts?? I think some 540’s have a bit more power than that…. closer to 100 watts.

Ahh… talking the “standard” Mabuchi RS540SH here… 🙂

Above was only ruff-as-gutz calc, based upon equivalent
Johnson 05 is rated at “0.05 horsepower” (thus the name)
and 1hp = ~700W…? (can’t remember exact figs).

Anyway, this is what the factory says:

RS-540SH/SF (model 5045)
OPERATING RANGE 4.5 – 12.0
NOMINAL (COMMUTATOR POSITION) 12(CCW+)
NO LOAD Speed/Current 17500rpm 0.95A
AT MAX EF 15080rpm 5.93A Torque 31.8N/m 324g/cm 50.1W
STALL 230N/m 2345g/cm 37.0A

So yeah, it does 50.1W if run on 12V… :p

Assuming linear power/V relationship, if we run it at
7.2V that should give us 7.2/12 X 50.1W = 36W.

Wahey, whaddya know… :smiley2:

I have done so much calculating wattage to horsepower etc. over the years that iv’e got the figures firmly lodged in my head.

746 Watts = 1 horsepower

1.341 Horsepower = 1 Kw (1000 watts)

Remember boys, a motor at maximum power is only around 50% efficient, that is, half the power is waste in heat, friction and noise before it gets to the pinion.

I always thought that the johnson 0.05 was meant to be equivalent to a 0.05 Glow Plug motor…..well thats the theory with “Astro” motors.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

I always thought that the johnson 0.05 was meant to be equivalent to a 0.05 Glow Plug motor…..well thats the theory with “Astro” motors.

Dunno about the Astros, but I think Johnson works on hp ratings.
Whereas the Mabuchi “540”… that’s its physical can’s dimensions.

Nothing really relative to glow engines imho.
Glow engines are measured by capacity… a “21” is 0.21 cu.i = 3.5cc.

[jamiekulhanek]

In the model aircraft world things are slightly different….

[PandaBear]

Dunno, as I don’t believe in electric flight. (batteries are too heavy for planes, imho)

How so different?
All the electrics I’ve seen have run their props through some kind of reduction gearbox anyway.

When we flew, we only had nitro engines for RC and the little Cox .049s for CL. Have quite a few 2-stroke nitro donks from 15 to 60, all by OS.

Real tempted to get back into the air… since now one can get these ARTF folded pla-board thingys now for $100 or less & I hate building in balsa. Pretty good price for a pre-built airframe!!

But bugger… lot of developments since *we* last flew, like we used AM 27Mhz radios. Would now have to buy new FM radio on plane freq, all new power packs and maybe a 4-stroke engine too (for the lower noise/pitch).

Nah, too hard, I’ll just stay grounded. :blush:

[jamiekulhanek]

Electric flight ain’t bad panda, i have electric planes and they are great. The world champ F5B pilot came to our model strip and gave us a demo of his electric F5B plane, the thing pushes close to 400km/h and literally screams its way through the air.

[Nismospeed]

ive come to the conclusion that the hopper 2 sux…..ive sold mine on to a friend in the mainland who needed parts to rebuild his hopper and his hornet…..
ive got a kyosho alpha 2 rally on its way….
oh jamie….ill bring you pinion back some time in the next week….we moved and the box with it in it is still packed…..just gotta find it..and ill bring it to you….thanks for letting me borrow it
cheers
dan

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah it does suck eh, but mine was quite fun with a 14×2 double wind motor.

I might just get mine going again, then strip the goodies out of it.

Really need a new 1/10 car….Tamiya TB Evolution III Surikarn Limited Edition….mmmmmmmm

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Really need a new 1/10 car….Tamiya TB Evolution III Surikarn Limited Edition….mmmmmmmm

hmm? They were giving them away on Sunday…

At the Australian TCS race. :smiley2:

The winner of the Mini race took one home as a prize, and
there was another Surikarn as the lucky draw prize.
(nup, I didn’t win it)

The winners of the other 3 classes (stock, GT1, F1) won
all-expenses-paid trips to Japan to race later this yr
at the international TCS against all the other countries.

That e3SL is one eye-candy kit with all those ruby red pieces.

If you’re seriously after one, get in quick. There’s only one
production run of those things and stocks are now running low.
Very few left in shops by now.

[jamiekulhanek]

Whats the point of me getting one though, its a waste really, i’d probably wreck it.

What i really want is a middle-range 1/10 car….preferrably tamiya.

Ive got my Kyosho Mini Z upto 58km/h on the M 4wd speed checker.

I am gonna have another go at RE-RE-REincarnating 🙂 my GH2 for a bit of a laugh again. I managed to acquire some chunky tyres and lots of bits, so why not??

My old tyres are going to have small bolts installed like “spikes” so i can actually drive it off road. When i get sick of it ill chuck it on the road and see if the tyres spark 🙂

With the extra grunt and bald tyres it wouldnt move on grass, and would promptly fall into “DONUT MODE” on dirt.

On gravel though…i guess it was better, sprayed lots of rocks around, a bit risky with parked cars around, even cars ~10m away werent safe.

[Nismospeed]

yeah thats the same as my modified TA02 which has wheels bigger than the gh2 ones i gave you…..that thing shots rooster tails more meters…..and it nearly never stops wheel spinning…..well i guess being rwd and the fact that you cant keep it in a straight line…but even with the throttle half on you can go straight..but as soon as its all power on throttle it wheel spins…..
sweet donuts though!

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Quote:

I always thought that the johnson 0.05 was meant to be equivalent to a 0.05 Glow Plug motor…..well thats the theory with “Astro” motors.

Dunno about the Astros, but I think Johnson works on hp ratings.
Whereas the Mabuchi “540”… that’s its physical can’s dimensions.

Nothing really relative to glow engines imho.
Glow engines are measured by capacity… a “21” is 0.21 cu.i = 3.5cc.

I have an electric plane called a “buzzard”. The motor is….(can’t recall the brand, Cobalt or AstroFlight or something…) a .10, because its the equivalent power of a .10 glow plug motor.

The motor has Neodymium magnets and draws around 40A @ 14.4v, around 550W of power….just imagine this baby in an R/C car..

[PandaBear]

Quote:

The motor has Neodymium magnets and draws around 40A @ 14.4v, around 550W of power….just imagine this baby in an R/C car..

That would be 40A *peak/instantaneous* right?

Otherwise I’m imagining a starter motor for a big V8… :p

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Quote:

The motor has Neodymium magnets and draws around 40A @ 14.4v, around 550W of power….just imagine this baby in an R/C car..

That would be 40A *peak/instantaneous* right?

Otherwise I’m imagining a starter motor for a big V8… :p

Nope, 40 amps at full power, peak power would be alot higher than that.

Starter motors draw alot more than 40 A, their peak power is like 800 AMPS.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Starter motors draw alot more than 40 A, their peak power is like 800 AMPS.

Nah, with small car 4cyl even with high compression the
starter wouldn’t average more than 40-50A. Peak draw
would be slightly higher at stall but if its up there for any
longer than a split-second there’s onviously something wrong.

Trucks might crank at up to 200A @ 24V… 🙂

But somehow trying to get 800A continuous out of a leadacid
accumulator might start boiling its electrolyte.
(spectacular stuff!)

[PandaBear]

…. damned “N” key is so close to the “B” key… :blush:

[jamiekulhanek]

Panda, you should know about peaks, when a motor first starts up, or gets locked the current draw is around 10 times the current draw, this is only for a small fraction of a second, and can blow an esc.

[PandaBear]

Say what? :clown:

Not too long ago, was trying to get the starter
motor to crank over with nothing happening
when… “what’s that smell?”. 🙂

Turned out, had bolted the ‘live’ cable to Gnd
thus solenoid pumping thru full shorted amps. 😯

Smell was combo of (1) bubbling 12V battery and
(2) toasty warm 10mm cables hehehe.

[jamiekulhanek]

lol that can be dangerous man.

[PandaBear]

:blush: the difference between deadshort & correct
is one tiny little fibre washer that does
all the insulatin’…!

yeah, cranked it for “quite” a while too whilst
watching the DVM drop from 13V to about 5V across
the battery (which was started off fresh charged).

Well… it certainly saved me having to go & clean
all the contacts in the starter circuit. Pretty
sure they’re all clean & shiny after that.

To be safe, decided better to put a new battery in
so d’oh, that ‘experience’ costed $100 there. On
top of $300 for the startermotor to be recond’d.

Methinks a good starter/battery is only second in
importance to good-working brakes. :p

[jamiekulhanek]

But if you drive an auto car its a different story.

[PandaBear]

Damned autos, can’t even pushstart the buggers… 😀
Ahh, the only place for an auto is in stop-start city traffic.

(whaddyamean I’m a city slicker…? :dead:)

Yup, I make sure the AUTO family wagon also has a good battery.
‘Cos charging all those 7.2V batteries sure takes a big drain from
it, and have had to call out RACV to the track at least once. :p

These days I also make sure its got enough juice to start *before*
I’m the last car left in the carpark heh heh heh… so WHO SEZ
age doesn’t benefit wisdom??! :smiley2:

[jamiekulhanek]

I drained my dads car battery once….he made me push start his Ford Falcon station wagon up the drive way!!! man it took some effort.

One of my friends has an auto car, and the starter solenoid failed……..the only way to “push” start an auto car is to get it upto 60km/h or so…..

[PandaBear]

Quote:

One of my friends has an auto car, and the starter solenoid failed……..the only way to “push” start an auto car is to get it upto 60km/h or so…..

shouldn’t be able to do that… otherwise the next failure
VERY SOON is likely to the the whole auto tranny :shock::shock:

[jamiekulhanek]

I hate autos, my brother just bought a new toy, a jet black 1:1 silvia with an RB25DET and all the mods from Tomei, HKS, Greddy (Trust), Microtec, Nismo, volk racing.

It was once a CA18 Auto, so hes worried about the CV joints failing (cause it once once a gutless auto).

Got some serious power it has….driving me to school today he pressed the boost control button on the steering wheel, and did a huge smokey drift around a corner…scared the crap outta me, but damn it was fun.

[jamiekulhanek]

In fact it used to live in your city wills….

[PandaBear]

Cousin recently got a R33 GTS-t too… I hear its plenty quick bog stock even before one makes it uninsurably modded… 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah my bro’s mate has a white R33 GTS-T with GTR wing (yuk! rice!) it has a few engine mods but gets blown away by the silvia, even Austin’s (another of my bro’s mates) 180SX with an SR20DET full of HKS bits, running 19PSI cant beat the silvia. Its damn fast!! But i WILL own a faster car one day (i hope).

What colour is cousin’s R33 GTS-T?? And…do you have your own jappo rocket??

[jamiekulhanek]

I want an S15 with an RB30 stroker and 6 speed HKS air shifter transmission, and 1000HP……it would be great fun for all of 1/2 hour 🙂

[Nismospeed]

yeah half hour….lol…not very long….isnt this a hopper room???..oh well
got me alfa yesturday…..yeh!!…heres the inside scoop
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/xforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7740
enjoy….

[jamiekulhanek]

lol reading as we speak….

[icebreaka]

My friend is sellin his super hornet 3 yrs old for $100 still working with stick control, batttas n 15 min charger.. is this worth it?

He says its still good condition and still runs well..?

[PandaBear]

Quote:

My friend is sellin his super hornet 3 yrs old for $100 still working with stick control, batttas n 15 min charger.. is this worth it?

He says its still good condition and still runs well..?

Sure thing!
They’re like $300 new – all up with radio etc.
So if you’re in the market for one, that sounds good.

Parts for the Super Hornet is no problems as its
still a current model.

[PandaBear]

In response… 🙂

Quote:

What colour is cousin’s R33 GTS-T??

He says its silver. One of the very rare examples without
*any* mods, its 99% factory stock – that’s how he wants it.
When he got it even the Jap radio was in the dash, amazing.

Quote:

And…do you have your own jappo rocket??

No way, gotta be crazy to drive that in Vic. We now have speed cameras
just about every 50 yards (NO joke!) and lately at every intersection
(“dual duty” speed & red-light cams); plus they ping you at
anything 3km over the limit. 😯

And this year there’s 40km/h limit around schools too now. :dead:

Anyway, am ‘too old’ these days to get any kicks from silly driving.
Just can’t be bothered anymore; all the VIC drivers are basically
asleep at the wheel all just staring at their speedos. After all,
“Speed Kills” and if you “Cut off Five” and drive 5km/h below
the limit, you’ll never get into any grief. (yeah right)

The weekend toy that lives in the garage is much more interesting,
its something that really takes one back to basics of motoring
and imho gives more pleasure than riding any big bike.

You’ll not recognise what it is anyway so no need to tell ya, but
whenever you’re up this way we can take you out for a whirl.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

In response… 🙂

Quote:

What colour is cousin’s R33 GTS-T??

He says its silver. One of the very rare examples without
*any* mods, its 99% factory stock – that’s how he wants it.
When he got it even the Jap radio was in the dash, amazing.

Quote:

And…do you have your own jappo rocket??

No way, gotta be crazy to drive that in Vic. We now have speed cameras
just about every 50 yards (NO joke!) and lately at every intersection
(“dual duty” speed & red-light cams); plus they ping you at
anything 3km over the limit. 😯

And this year there’s 40km/h limit around schools too now. :dead:

Anyway, am ‘too old’ these days to get any kicks from silly driving.
Just can’t be bothered anymore; all the VIC drivers are basically
asleep at the wheel all just staring at their speedos. After all,
“Speed Kills” and if you “Cut off Five” and drive 5km/h below
the limit, you’ll never get into any grief. (yeah right)

The weekend toy that lives in the garage is much more interesting,
its something that really takes one back to basics of motoring
and imho gives more pleasure than riding any big bike.

You’ll not recognise what it is anyway so no need to tell ya, but
whenever you’re up this way we can take you out for a whirl.

LOL jap radio, thats useless in aussie right??

The speed camera thing is nowhere near as bad down in backward-land Tassie. My bro rarely goes below 60, and often has the needle up over 100, and sometimes has the needle wound right off the scale. Has been doing that for years and hasn’t lost a single point. Lucky bastard. Cameras are very predictable here (location wise).

Weekend toy?? Very intrigued i am :p what is she?? A big hayabusa a postie bike?? Tell me!!

Is it a classic bike?? My old man has a 1950’s “Hercules” and a classic beemer (and 7 classic Hodaka trailbikes) and a classic Duke.

You must reveal now…..

[PandaBear]

Come up here and we’ll show you it…! 👿

[jamiekulhanek]

:angry: Im not coming till early next year, going up with a friend to go car hunting 🙂 All airfares paid by my mates GF, so i’m not complaining :).

Just tell me!!!!

Don’t get me all worked up and then show me a 50cc MonkeyBike!

[jamiekulhanek]

And who is “we”??? :p

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Im not coming till early next year

… we’ll be expecting yer call! :p

Quote:

Don’t get me all worked up and then show me a 50cc MonkeyBike!

No fear… if ya wanna check out my 49.9cc Honda MiniTrail
(aka Z50 ‘Monkey’) and the whole *fleet* of wierd toys,
you’ll have to fly north a bit further ~ approx 6000kms… 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

So Mr Chang has a Base in HK too??? So you have an original Monkey Bike???

I am also looking into going to the Melbourne GP next year. Am hooked on F1, love it, the GP is great value, 4 long days of racing and entertainment for $92.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

So Mr Chang has a Base in HK too??? So you have an original Monkey Bike???

Haha, not *that* far… just north of Singapore.
I think HK is about 8000kms away last time I looked.

We went thru a few Z50s whilst kiddy… last one we’ve
still got stashed in the shed “at home”. Don’t know how
the models go but its one of the old-style ones with
no rear suspension in mint original condition.
(I learnt to look after my toys well!)

Visited a pal here in Melb, said he had a hard-tail until
recently too but sold it for $1000+. He’s still got a newer
soft-tail one… but he’s done some work to it, including
bolting in a 110cc from a postie-bike. Says its a simple
drop in job, just need to re-route the exhaust a little.

Quote:

I am also looking into going to the Melbourne GP next year. Am hooked on F1, love it, the GP is great value, 4 long days of racing and entertainment for $92.

Sounds cheap.
I thought the general pass was already $400 just by itself??

Me, I’ll stick to the TV… 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

HAHAHAHA!!!!!!! GUESS WHAT!!!!!!! I am going to the GP next year with airfares adn accomodation paid for, full 4 day pass and access to the BWM williams PITS!!!!!! It is not yet in concrete so better not get too excited….lets just say one of my mates has relatives in the BMW Hierachy (spelt right???)

110 cc Monkey bike?? HELL YEAH!!! That thing would be nuts!.

$92 it cost this year for a 4 day pass for me.

Might drop in for a visit….so long as you don’t chop me up with the chainsaw and flush me down the loo 🙂

[jamiekulhanek]

After SMASHING the front end in on my GH2, i cut and grated two chassis’ and made a lovely new car :p.

I took it out to the local club day, and people were amazed at the sting and pure DRIFTING ability of the ‘ol hoppa!

This thing really needs a tighter diff or ball diff or locker….or something.

Took the mini Z out also…..the guys thought it was a cute machine….but not competitive against their micros……that was….until i turned it on. None of the Micros stood a chance, the Mini Z outpowered them, and OUTHANDLED them too. Cornering was particularly good, the MRS4’s would spin out if they tried anything on me in the corners. Even the 1/10 stock cars…..couldn’t stay on the pace of my Z……untill i had a head-on collision with one…ouch! Shell broken:shock:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

This thing really needs a tighter diff or ball diff or locker….or something.

Degrease everything then use Blu-Tac as diff lube. :smiley16:

[jamiekulhanek]

Nice, now I will have a 2wd grasshopper!!! (As opposed to one wheel drive :):smiley2:)

Cornering can be hairy when the inside wheel gets 90% of the power. Drifting should be more effective too.

[jamiekulhanek]

Nice, now I will have a 2wd grasshopper!!! (As opposed to one wheel drive :):smiley2:)

Cornering can be hairy when the inside wheel gets 90% of the power. Drifting should be more effective too.

[PandaBear]

Believe it or not, 1WD is actually a HANDLING feature… as if you have both wheels spinning, you have no lateral traction left.

== donut city.

And I got rid of the (old 1st) Hornet’s clacky hingepin thing too, made it back into Grasshopper fixed pivot style. Improves handling by about 10% and it stops that clacking noise.

[PandaBear]

Believe it or not, 1WD is actually a HANDLING feature… as if you have both wheels spinning, you have no lateral traction left.

== donut city.

And I got rid of the (old 1st) Hornet’s clacky hingepin thing too, made it back into Grasshopper fixed pivot style. Improves handling by about 10% and it stops that clacking noise.

[jamiekulhanek]

But when it is 1WD and the inner wheel has lifted off the ground due to lateral load. You get no power to the ground while cornering. This thing can get up on 2 wheels while cornering.

[jamiekulhanek]

But when it is 1WD and the inner wheel has lifted off the ground due to lateral load. You get no power to the ground while cornering. This thing can get up on 2 wheels while cornering.

[PandaBear]

Yep, precisely correct. You need 1 rear tyre to grip the ground unmoving; if both are sliding you have an extremely taily car – virtually undriveable on loose ground.

With a locked diff, it’ll probably handle better in REVERSE… :clown:

[PandaBear]

Yep, precisely correct. You need 1 rear tyre to grip the ground unmoving; if both are sliding you have an extremely taily car – virtually undriveable on loose ground.

With a locked diff, it’ll probably handle better in REVERSE… :clown:

[jamiekulhanek]

Well, ya learn something new everyday, i just want to get the hopper drifting nicely, so getting some power to the outside wheel is important. Blutack in the diff sounds like a plan…

Quote:

Yep, precisely correct. You need 1 rear tyre to grip the ground unmoving; if both are sliding you have an extremely taily car – virtually undriveable on loose ground.

With a locked diff, it’ll probably handle better in REVERSE… :clown:

Well that’s a pity, the hopper *dont* *have* *reverse*:)

[jamiekulhanek]

Well, ya learn something new everyday, i just want to get the hopper drifting nicely, so getting some power to the outside wheel is important. Blutack in the diff sounds like a plan…

Quote:

Yep, precisely correct. You need 1 rear tyre to grip the ground unmoving; if both are sliding you have an extremely taily car – virtually undriveable on loose ground.

With a locked diff, it’ll probably handle better in REVERSE… :clown:

Well that’s a pity, the hopper *dont* *have* *reverse*:)

[PandaBear]

Mine neither, was using fwd-only ESC. 😀

BluTac works ok, but you’ll have to open & check the gearbox every few runs. The bevel gears are so big and coarse even the BluTac gets squished out (and jams the countergear) after a while.

There’s more permanent solutions, like epoxy or hotglue… :p

[PandaBear]

Mine neither, was using fwd-only ESC. 😀

BluTac works ok, but you’ll have to open & check the gearbox every few runs. The bevel gears are so big and coarse even the BluTac gets squished out (and jams the countergear) after a while.

There’s more permanent solutions, like epoxy or hotglue… :p

[jamiekulhanek]

I figured that would happen, so bugger it. I have another idea to make it a LOCKER….

[jamiekulhanek]

I figured that would happen, so bugger it. I have another idea to make it a LOCKER….

[PandaBear]

Y’know, you could probably jam the 3 bevels to the big gear with a bunch of small short self-tapping screws.

(Don’t involve the side gears, as they’re captive to the axle rods.)

The big gear & bevels spares are easy to find.

[PandaBear]

Y’know, you could probably jam the 3 bevels to the big gear with a bunch of small short self-tapping screws.

(Don’t involve the side gears, as they’re captive to the axle rods.)

The big gear & bevels spares are easy to find.

[jamiekulhanek]

I was thinking of that.

[jamiekulhanek]

I was thinking of that.

[Author]

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