i need a good rc charger

[Admin]

hello i was woundering if someone could help me i am in need of a good quick charger for my sanyo 3600 mAh battery i need something that is going to keep my battery in good condition and not take long to charge

[kevsta]

Quote:

hello i was woundering if someone could help me i am in need of a good quick charger for my sanyo 3600 mAh battery i need something that is going to keep my battery in good condition and not take long to charge

Yeah, I’m also looking for a good charger as well… Here are a few that I have in mind.

Chargetronic – about $130 AUD
http://www.masterinstruments.com.au/browse/Model/ChargetronicAC_DC_Digital_Charger.html

Superbrain 969 pro – about $170 AUD shipped
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEVC7&P=7

Apex MU+ & AC Power Supply – about $130 AUD Shipped
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_37_53&products_id=1394

Eagle CDC 6.0/b – cream of the crop but needs a seperate power supply to run off mains ? Can someone confirm this ?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_37_53&products_id=3416

You can also get cheaper DC only ones like Duratrax Piranha for like $50 AUD.

🙂

[Admin]

thanks for that which one are you planning on getting

[jamiekulhanek]

Dude check out this, its got more features than ma $600 charger…

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHDJ1&P=ML

Its gotta be the bargain of the century, get it….you won’t regret it…

[TallduDe]

so using a car batt is the way to go aye?

y is that better then a wall socket?

[merc-blue]

talldude having a PSU inside ur charger generates extra heat. and no car batt isnt the way to go a 13.8V PSU is (if your running ur motor lathe, charger, battery equaliser, tyre truer, cooling stand, etc all run off 13.8(12) volts
but for just a charger then yeah a car battery works fine

as for a GOOD charger i would say the DTX ice best bang for ya buck.. although u should read up on battery cycling/conditioning etc so u know how to use it

if you cells are in a saddle or ladder pack config get a equaliser tray as well this will help maintain ur packs

also 3600 cells dont have a great reputation how do they run compared to a set of good 3300 matched cells?… im still on my 1.17V 400+ sec sanyo 2400s they are better than all teh non GP or non sanyo 3300s that i have tryed (matched or unmatched)

[kevsta]

Quote:

thanks for that which one are you planning on getting

I’m going to get the superbrain 969 pro as it comes with the 240V power supply unit and can also run off car battery and can charge two stick packs at the same time. Don’t want the hassles of getting a seperate 12V DC psu – I think these are around the $80 AUD mark ?

It may not be the best, but it’s within my budget.

Merc, sounds like you got some serious stuff happening there.

[merc-blue]

well kev it depends on what u call serious .. when u start paying 700+ dollar for a chassis that doesnt even include a body tehn u know uve lost it .. lol

[kevsta]

Woohoo… finally got the charger from the US and it came as normal post. Worked out to be $113USD delivered.

I’m going to rtfm tonight and do some deans plug soldering tonight.

[merc-blue]

cool tell us how it goes..

[TallduDe]

so u will be racing at tempe this sunday!

ill talk to ya about the charger on the day and ill see if ill pick one up myself 🙂

[kevsta]

Damn rain. Wanted to test out the 1:10 today, had all my battery packs charged.

The charger ain’t too bad at all. Takes 90 mins to charge a 3300 pack at 1.5 amps.

Takes 40 mins to charge a 1100 pack at 0.5 amps.

Does 2 batt packs at the same time.

Has bannana sockets, so you can hook up aaa/aa battery holders to charge if needed.

Takes ac/dc source.

Requires a pc power supply cable ($2 from Jaycar)

Not too bad in my opinion for the price.

I’m happy with it.

[merc-blue]

kev… 1.5A thats crazy.. i cahrger mine at 5.. most racers do try it u will see a HUGE increase in punch.

[jamiekulhanek]

kevsta if it takes 40 mins to charge an 1100 pack at 0.5, something is seriously wrong, either the batteries are stuffed and only partially charging or something else is…at 0.5A it should take closer to 1 1/2 hours…

And a 3300 pack at 1.5A…should take 2 1/2 hours….something is weird…

I charge my AAA’s at around 3.5A in a plastic bag dunked in a cup of water to keep temps down and prevent false peaking…

My Sub C packs…4-8 amps, depending on how impatient I am feeling…

[kevsta]

Merc,

Hmmm.. not sure. 1.5 amp is from the manual. Max amps I can go with this charger is 4.5. If I charge at the max, won’t it shorten the lifespan of the batteries ?

Jamie,

I had delta peak 30mv (also from manual) for the 3300 and 20mv for the 1100.

The batterys both got very warm toward the end of the charge. So can I assume it’s not false peaking ?

This is all new to me any help is appreciated.

🙂

[merc-blue]

yeah cause ur cutmof os very low i run like 60mv ro 120mv dependsing on the batters also 4-5A is about a standard charge rate i would cahrge 3 MIN..

[leonli17]

Tell us the make and the model of the charger please. proper charging Amp for Sub C is around 4-6Amp. and no, u can’t charge 2 packs at the same time(unless ur charger’s manual says so):smiley2:

[merc-blue]

leon hthe superbrain has 2 output (i think) like teh yokomo charger allowing you to charge 2 packs.

kev. remember these cells are being discraherged in ur car at 80A is (dependng on ur motor) so cahrgeing them at 5 is nothing.. were not playing with cheaply made AAA any more when ya buy real batterypacks there is a reason that there expensive firstly the manufacering proces is very precise and produces arwsome cells
these are the numbers of ym new cells.. imagine how good teh cells must be to perform like that. capacity is roughtl 4000 MAH
Discharge time (SEC): 613 seconds
Average voltage (AVG/V): 1.214 volts
Internal Resistance (IR): 2.5
Cell Capacity (Mah): 3967
:shock::shock::shock::shock:

[kevsta]

Hey I just re-read the manual and it says:

“For NiMH, use maximum charge rate of: capacity x 2. For new batteries a lower charge rate is better. Capacity / 2 would be appropriate. For example, a new 3000mAH NiMH would have an initial charge of 1.5 amps (3000mAH / 2 = 1500 mAH, or 1.5 amps)”.

So when does a battery become old ? after 5 charge cycles ?

I took the car out for a run yesterday evening, and after 25 minutes of constant running in two netball courts, my batteries still wouldn’t dump. Is this normal ? I’m running stock tamiya 540 motor 😯 22t pinion and 55t spur.

[merc-blue]

bah thats bull shit.. that runtim is standard for a 3000 specialty charging at 1.5A if u cahrger at 3-5 u will get more punch (LOTS) and lower runtime.. which is alot better no use going slow for ages when ya cna go fast for still about 15-20 mins

[kevsta]

Quote:

bah thats bull shit.. that runtim is standard for a 3000 specialty charging at 1.5A if u cahrger at 3-5 u will get more punch (LOTS) and lower runtime.. which is alot better no use going slow for ages when ya cna go fast for still about 15-20 mins

Excellent. I’m going to hit them with 4 amps next charge cycle.

Thanks for the info.

😀

[betty.k]

from what i’ve read full on modified racers tend to charge at around 4 amps for endurance and stock racers charge at around 6 amps for the extra punch. i personally charge at 3 amps because that’s all i get before my charger goes on strike!:8ball:

[kevsta]

Quote:

from what i’ve read full on modified racers tend to charge at around 4 amps for endurance and stock racers charge at around 6 amps for the extra punch. i personally charge at 3 amps because that’s all i get before my charger goes on strike!:8ball:

I just charged the 3300 battery pack at 4 amps this morning, it did it in 57 minutes, it hit 8.79Volts then charger hit the change in peak and stopped. Power supply runs hot though, had to put a fan to it to cool it down.

On the track, I did notice the extra punch 😀

[merc-blue]

betty mod racers charge slow becasue they get more runtime that way.. but us other divisions dont need the runtime (mod racers can only just finish a race) so we opt for more punch.. think og it this way more current = more punch less runtime less current = more runtime less punch.. its about working out whats good for you

[Author]

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