i waver and whoa nelly, together at last!

[betty.k]

yup, that s right! after a heavy soldering and swearing session (this is normal) ph2t got a whoa nelly installed on an i waver pcb. and the operation was a complete success!:p basically, it requires the removal of the stock fets, 2 wires to + and – 4 wires to the gate pads and 2 to the motor. speed is just noticably increased, say about 10%, but there s a big increase in torque. approx 30%. after nelly was installed the diff needed to be tightened, the extra torque is definately there! and the stock fets are the same layout as the ones used on kyosho pcb s, so internal fet mods will work. the only drawback will be the fact that the fets are located on the top of the pcb as opposed to kyosho where the fets are underneath.
so now i have the option of running a hot motor, just to check things out we threw in a fancy 35t motor and i was genuinely scared when i gave it full throttle!!!:shock:

i think i better learn how to control this thing better before going nuts on the jamie-z style upgrades!!:D

special thanks of course to mr “too much current is never enough” ph2t for the terrifying beast that sits before me!:smiley2::8ball:

[TallduDe]

okay i want my iwaver working or a new iwaver!

i have a feeling this could be interesting!

[betty.k]

here’s a peek of it loaded up. i opted to solder the motor wires directly to the nelly to save space, but if you’re swapping motors often then it usually comes with screw lugs so no need for constant soldering:8ball:

[peteWah]

None of your pics work betty, on anything you post be sure of this…
ATM Anyway.:D:smiley2::smiley2:

Edited by – peteWah on 05 June 2004 00:01:45

[betty.k]

sorry man, forgot to post the link!

http://www.geocities.com/bettyksprivatestash/iwaver2.html:8ball:

[jamiekulhanek]

I see alot of ex jamiekulhanek’s mini Z stuff on that car…did u steal it all?

[Super Max Power]

I like what you have done to the paint job Betty!!
Has/is ph2t going to make the nelly commercially available?

[betty.k]

nelly will hit the market, i think it’s just a matter of finding a reliable supplier of the fets who’s willing to sell less than 3000 at a time.

and yeah, that z of jamie’s was soooooo fast, most of it flew to melbourne and landed here, honest!!:D:8ball:

[merc-blue]

lol nah betty your thinking of my xmod it was so fast it flew from the US to here….. hehehehehe. BE AFRAID VERY AFRAID

[oldtamiyaphile]

I’m just wondering isn’t Nelly’s current draw close to the limit of what the tiny PCB pads can handle?

I wonder if it will handle an 8t motor in a Monster.

[ph2t]

good question otp. I know she can handle a 12t armature in the madforce, at speed(no load) currrent draw was 1.7A. I think for these cars around the 20-22 turn mark is prolly optimum, I will wind an armature with this and see what the performance is like….

Also, all the high current drain is on nelly’s pcb. I tap straight into the battery terminals. Only four signal wires goto the Z/iwaver PCB.

ph2t.

ph2t.

[jamiekulhanek]

My z drew around 10 A at full power, no probs. The energizer nimhs i had can supply 13 amps at maximum for short periods of time. I realy wanted to delve into sub 10 turns on 6 cells, but the motors just cant take it for long.

[betty.k]

here’s a close up of the pcb. you can see that the fets are gone and there are 4 grey wires attached to the gate pads. and the 2 power leads i just soldered onto the pcb at v+ and v-. i suppose if you’re fussy you can solder these directly to the battery terminals for extra current handling. but this way is easiest as you only need to remove the pcb cover to get to the business end:8ball:

[oldtamiyaphile]

For now, I really want one for my boat 😀 Should handle 8t or less in a boat nicely.

[jamiekulhanek]

Funny you should mention boats! I am transplanting my 9×2 irf7389 pcb and servo into a non r/c aeroflyte tunnel hull boat. 6 cells and a watercooled, ball bearing plasma dash with nd magnets. I am hoping for 40km/h but have no idea what to expect!

[oldtamiyaphile]

Heh, the Aeroflyte boats are probably a bit for these motors. If you plan on using car electronics the boat should only be at most 50% longer than the car. Still should work though, but I don’t think you’ll see 40km/h. Boats are always going to be a fair amount slower than an equivalent car. Water cooling does solve the overheating problems common with hot winds of 130 motors though.

This is my boat:

http://www.wegotu.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1645&forum_id=9

Only a little bigger than a Z, and weight is going to be critical (MZ servo is too heavy, single Lipo).

One major problem you can expect with the AF boat is propshaft vibration. Almost bad enough to shake her apart, you’ll probably have to get a much more substantial shaft/tube.

[jamiekulhanek]

Oh yeah OTP, i had one of those AF boats I built, but chucked it cause it wasnt really built from scratch for R/C. Back then i was in grade 5 lol and was building it with a 6 cell AA NiCD pack, standard servo, standard esc and 380/400 motor……probobly unable to float

This one is going to be built light, but stronger than the standard kit form, And the kit motor, prop?? and shaft is bin material.

A brass shaft and steel tube should be a good combo.

Got no idea what sort of prop to go for!!

Don’t underestimate the setup, it can produce gigantic power, i.e. up to around 30 watts of power at the shaft on a plasma dash that has been worked.

As well as a watercooled can, i’m thinking about watercooled brush heatsinks too, i want to be able to keep this thing on full noise without any heating issues.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Regardless of watt output of the motor, a boat will only do about 1/2 the speed of a car. Since I haven’t seen any (genuine) 80km/h Z’s, I don’t expect your boat to hit 40, especially since it’s really too big for a 130 motor (by about 50%). 40W isn’t all that much, I’ve seen boats slightly larger (~2′ long) running 300+ W motors, and they only manage ~80km/h.

My 8 cell hovercraft only does 30km/h on a speed 400.

My boat is only about 1″ longer than a Z, so it might manage 40km/h, at which speed the slightest ripple will send it into the air.

As for a prop, making your own from brass is the way to go, no one I know of sells props small enough.

[jamiekulhanek]

Well! I think i better look at a different sized boat then! and ifi’mgoing smaller with the boat, then li-poly/li-ion batts are a must.

[Author]

Posts