IRF7832

[ken_wyleung]

Anyone know about the IRF7832?

Thanks:D

[chino]

SI4562DY best fets i ever used. plus race proven. fastest Zs and xmods outhere use them

http://minizstore.com/minizDetail.asp?minizPN=388

[Aaron]

Just as a point – there’s not a mega difference between the SI and the IRF7389.

Yes there is a difference but not a mega one.

Overall the best deal is a setup called “Whoa Nelly” which is simply awesome compared to both. I think once a cheaper source of Nelly components are founf the world will be a better place!

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[chino]

sound kool. wut is whoe nelly. i wannah know. is it a external fet board? im intrested. i have 2 external power boards. one 30A 30v max and one 74A 30v max. is it like that?

[jamiekulhanek]

When you say max i am assuming that is the peak, whoa nelly has 2 versions, the better version handles 16A RMS, which is more than any AAA cell can put out.

It’s peak value is most probably around the 120A mark. I don’t know but ask ph2t, he is the mastermind behind the whoa nelly.

Aaron, i don’t believe either IRF7389 or SI4562 can handle what the spec sheet says, the major problem with them is there is no easy way for the heat to dissipate.

If the spec sheet is correct, my 9×2 stack should handle 50+ A, but any more than 10A amd they get very hot.

[chino]

30A OR 74A as in current from a hot motor. low turn motors like mini4wd motors, runing a 15turn 180 motor noproblem. 30v as in limit on how many volts u kan hook up to the car w/o fryin it.

whoe nelly sounds kool. links?? pls if there is any

[Tim]

little searching won’t hurt u

but here’s the link anyway

http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=2044&FORUM_ID=13&CAT_ID=4&Forum_Title=Mini%2DZ%2C+Mini%2DX%2C+X%2DMods+%2D+Technical&Topic_Title=my+%22Woah+Nelly%21%22+Turbo%2E%2E%2E%2E

[jamiekulhanek]

Look there is no way that a tiny FET can handle 74A, have you seen wire that is designed to take 74 A????

Chino, Mini4WD motors DO NOT DRAW 74Amps!!!!! try a tenth (maybe slightly more) of that.

Sure their peak current might be a good 100A, but this is only for a couple of milliseconds at stall/startup.

[Aaron]

Jamie agreed on the IRF and the current – however, its good enough for most applications.

A.

--
Site Owner Guy.

[chino]

haha, tha guy that made tha board didnt use tiny normal fets. he used large ones. 4 large 3pin mosfets found in amplifiers. i think. ionnoe for sure but it works great. it sends as many volts u want to the motor and regulates the voltage goin to tha board at 5v so u kant fry ur car. ill hav a pic soon. the guy is online at this monent as i type this post

[chino]

ok heres pics of the car with the board installed. thoes are 3 lion cells 3.6 each

http://img17.photobucket.com/albums/v51/chino925/jshwaa/?multi=3

[jamiekulhanek]

ok, but dont be fooled, if it can handle 74 A great, but your cells will only give around 15A anyway.

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Jamie agreed on the IRF and the current – however, its good enough for most applications.

A.

Oh yeah, they are fine, i only blew a 6×2 stack once, that was because my motor got hot enough to burn the enamel on the wire, making a short. All turbos, even nelly 1.0 would blow up from this.

My 9×2 stack got quite warm, above 40 degrees, on my setup, but it was dealing with some seriously high wattage.

The IRF7389 is a fantastic value for money, bang for buck mod. If money is no issue, then yeah there are better FETs, but they are only about 8% better.

[chino]

from my experience 2×2 SI4562 worked alot better for me than a 3×2 stack of IRF7389s. wich is great since i dont want a hole on the bottom of my xmod.

btw that turbo can be sorted while flooring it and the fet would barely get warm. that kan easily run a 540 motor no problem, stall current is nuthing to it. too bad it kant fit in an xmod or Z, haha. havnt tryed anything less than 12turn. but runs it great.

jamie, what motor are u running?

[merc-blue]

yeh the most ive gotten my xmod to pull is 9A

[jamiekulhanek]

My motor is a Tamiya Plasma Dash, with Neodymium magnets, magnet spacers, ball bearings, shimmed armature, 10 degree timed armature, beveled commutator grooves.

Running a 13T GPM Titanium pinion and TO220 Heatsink.

[merc-blue]

chino i dont think u can run a 540 motor off these ive seen them (stock) pull 50 amps

[jamiekulhanek]

thats under high load, right???

[chino]

yess fully stalled. holding motor still. thoes fets handle 74A. also even shorting it and flooring it for a few seconds with the fets barely gettin warm.

jamie, nice motor. did u also have to use a larger size baring in the rear end bell of the PD? i just use mini4wd barings a lil tight but fit right in. hav u tried li-ions in ur z yet?

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

jamie, nice motor. did u also have to use a larger size baring in the rear end bell of the PD? i just use mini4wd barings a lil tight but fit right in. hav u tried li-ions in ur z yet?

This setup saw 84km/h on the speedchecker, or 52mph, and due to the gigantic torque of the motor, i dont think the ground speed was a heck of alot slower.

I only have bits of my car left now, it was just too unreliable, after a few runs it was time for a motor rebuild, but when it was going at 100% you had to watch that throttle! Even on a smoothe bitumen track with softies, it only took 1/4-1/3 throttle to light up the rear treads, and you had to feather the throttle to keep the ass end inline. At these speeds though it would just about put its face through it’s ass in a crash, which is another reason why I abandoned it.

The car had a 6 cell 7.2v pack with deans rc connectors.

I didn’t need a larger ball bearing in the end bell, the size I had was fine, I was going to go with li-ions, as i have a li-ion charger, but i ended up swapping alot of my Z stuff apart from the PCB, Servo, chassis, and most stock parts.

[chino]

aww that sux man, sry bout ur car. do u hav any pics while it wus alive. i had fren with tha sam problem but i doubt his car wus as fast as urs. wut we did to his car wus get a set of over land wheels, hollow out 2 of them, cement them to the other 2 deeeep dish look and put the tires on to make big wide tires. and put foams in the front. accually helped alotand we did have to trim too much off the fenders. since ur set up wus fast, why dont u try to put ur Z electronic on to an xmod. to take advantage of the 4wd. heres a link of one of tha best modders i ever seen. hes mounted o1 and 02 boards to xmods. he has aslo has the best Zs i ever seen and kool drift vids.
http://www1.bbiq.jp/ikinari/xmods/sp_hide.html

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah i’ve seen ikinaris site man,

The problem with my Z PCB is when my first motor burnt out it shorted out the FET stack (6×2) which made them hot enough to melt the solder on the stacks and shorted out The Reverse signal.

The result is, even though i have a new perfect 9×2 stack, it only has foreward now! so its going in a hydro plane boat because there is a nice lake just near my house, and i have learnt that when you have huge power and speed and no way of braking it can get expensive.

My total mini Z experience cost me close to $1000 aus or about $700 US.

I really think that there is nothing wrong with the xmod electronics, the propo is not anywhere near as fine as a mini Z, but it doesn’t seem to make any difference when i’m driving on my garage floor track. Plus the brake is a good function, and with the AWD kit you have four wheel braking which is 150% better than rear wheel brakes. Once you have learned your xmod inside out, back to front and maximized performance, handling and efficiency, i have no hesitation in saying that this thing could really give a hopped up Z a spanking.

As i have not got any hopups at the mo, besides a custom motor, its kinda lame.

[chino]

yeah that sux man i guess im fortunate to hav a radio shack near by. main upgrades to get are s2 motors, mainly for the pinions and bevel gears and awd. i hope to hav vids soon. to show wut a well tuned xmod can do.

[Author]

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