Jada RC ROLLER$ FJ Cruiser

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    • #13003
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      Hey guys,
      I have been stalking cheap RC cars at Kmart again, and I came across these. I had been waiting for a sale and picked it up for $13.50…

      Stock they are pretty weak, but all the tyres I have collected for my OL are a perfect fit for this car. I had a Iwaver 02 chassis kicking around, courtesy of rcs2die4, so I have been working on changing over all the electronics. It all runs, except for the steering servo is only held down with blue-tac…

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      I plan to work on some suspension for it, FET’s, hotter motor, scale accessories, tow/bull bars, etc…

    • #62038
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      I was too busy laughing at the bike seat that says “WOMAN TUNED” …
      be cool to see your results!

      Seriously (as if..), I was expecting pics of the Jada diecast Datsun 240Z, must get myself one and Iwaver it.

    • #62039
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      So I’m not the only 240Z fan???
      I did a die cast conversion once. It drove like crap. Totally not worth the effort!

      Looking forward to seeing what you come up with Pork_Hunt!

    • #62034
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      @Dangerous Dave 229935 wrote:

      I was too busy laughing at the bike seat that says “WOMAN TUNED” …

      Haha, thats my Mrs’ bike! I was feeling too:big:slack too move it!

      The results are VERY good, with the 3 AA’s shown in the pics, it does 8 kph on the Tamiya dyno… 3 AAA NiMH’s are faster again. Even though the servo is only blue-tac’d down, the steering is still REALLY good, it sort of wallows around, but it doesn’t feel bad at all, you just constantly correct for it…

      The only real flaw I have found is that if the gearbox stops in a certain place it won’t be able to drive away again… That doesn’t read very well, but I can’t think of a better way to explain… I am going to pull the rear end apart after the weekend and look for any crap in there. I’m going to run in the motor too, I had good results from running the OL’s motor in, just have to buy some INOX…

      I only have my phone camera for filming, but I’ll get a video of it if people want to see…

    • #62035
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      wtf is INOX?
      I do know of water break in for motors tho.

      I love your steering description lol
      Use double sided tape if you want something a little more robust.

      If I’m gauging your personality correctly, I reckon you’d pull the gearbox apart regardless hehe (I know I would..) . Better to find dirt in there than a broken gear tooth.

      Bloody Klims rained on my parade re the diecast build lol.. guess he had the same thoughts of a big heavy Datto performing long 2WD drifts..

      here’s some more dots coz I like using them so much ………

    • #62008
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      @Dangerous Dave 229938 wrote:

      wtf is INOX?
      I do know of water break in for motors tho.

      I love your steering description lol
      Use double sided tape if you want something a little more robust.

      If I’m gauging your personality correctly, I reckon you’d pull the gearbox apart regardless hehe (I know I would..) . Better to find dirt in there than a broken gear tooth.

      Bloody Klims rained on my parade re the diecast build lol.. guess he had the same thoughts of a big heavy Datto performing long 2WD drifts..

      here’s some more dots coz I like using them so much ………

      INOX is (from memory) lanolin based lubricant-y stuff. Pretty much like WD-40 but a bit oil-ier… I’m not sure breaking in in water is the best way or only way, but I have consistently had solid improvements from it, even at this scale.

      I don’t think anything is broken in the gearbox, I am PRETTY sure I have just over-tightened a screw, and that is causing the binding (that’s the word I was looking for yesterday…)

    • #62009
      Renton
      Participant
      • Posts: 117

      INOX is very similar to WD40, only better in my opinion.

      The first reply re the seat had me in s***ches for days.

      My girl is now convinced she is getting a ‘woman tuned’ seat for christmas. Yes she is very puzzled, and im rather amused.

    • #62010
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      Pulled the rear end apart. The screws were just over tightened, this car seems to just like the screws just barely tightened… I messed up the motor running it in so I am going to go looking for 130 motors around town. Hopefully find a Tamiya 1/32-style car with a dune buggy looking shell…

    • #62011
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      if you have a FET modded board, there’s a guy on here selling I-Pro motors for $1… or I’d bet the guys at Gigspeed racetrack have stock Iwaver 130 motors available (Box Hill, Station St).

      re 1/32 dune buggies, you can eBay for the Tamiya Jr series of buggies, I saw the Hornet Jr version the other day..

    • #62012
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      @Dangerous Dave 229942 wrote:

      the guys at Gigspeed racetrack have stock Iwaver 130 motors available (Box Hill, Station St).

      lemme know if you want anything from these guys, just a 15 min walk from my house and great blokes to boot! craploads of atomic tyres available;) :8ball:

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