killed fets

Viewing 9 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #12503
      hakhawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 79

      well, after having my iwaver for a couple months, i finally fried the forward fet in it. it still goes backwards tho!! i think its coz im running a hand wound motor, 18 turns. oh well, time 2 get a fet upgrade, the IRF7317s in ausmicro shop will do the trick right? i will post sme pics of the board 2moro. im gonna get some other bits aswell. i threaded the wheel nuts, so alloy ones it is now. anyone know where i can get some ball raced motor cans, and good brushes and such?

    • #57975
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      Yup the 7317’s will do the trick – I’m not just saying that because I sell them – but also because I use them! ph2t recently reviewed them as gave them a thumbs up, you can find similar reviews around the other forums too.

      We do alloy nuts as well and have plenty of stock at the moment.

      Currently I don’t have BB cans and endbells/blushes in the shop but think I have access to a reasonable supply – but won’t be increasing stock much more until after a house move in a few weeks.

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #57978
      hakhawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 79

      cool, well i’ll probably get some fets, and finally get some bearings and wheel nuts while im at it. now i just gotta get paid.

    • #58074
      hakhawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 79

      ok, i got the parts, now, its an iwaver 01 board, how do i position the fets? same as iwaver 02? or different? pic would help.

    • #58075
      Priest
      Participant
      • Posts: 82

      when you remove the old fets you will see on the board a little white printed square where the fet used to be.. in one corner you will see a little white printed dot now on the new fet you will see a dot in one of the corners just line the up and and solder them in

    • #58076
      hakhawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 79

      yep, i went and gave it a go, before you posted. i found that white square, thanks priest. well on one side anyway, when i fried the stock fet, it lifted the copper under the fet. all fixed with a wire link. i am now running a 4×2 stack. i already unsoldered a coil end on one handwound motor, due to heat. now, im charging up my batteries, to see it at full pace. need motor heatsink, and somehow, to mount fet heatsink without glue. and i need a good bb motor case and endbell. ahh, the joys of micro rc’s. oh, and the wheel bearings in it now, so much smoother. should’ve got them ages ago. and thanks to aaron for the quick postage to me from the ausmicro shop.

    • #58085
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      well done on the fet mod hawk, it’s a pain in the arse to do….

      ph2t.

      Edited by – ph2t on 19 January 2005 22:29:12

    • #58087
      hakhawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 79

      oh yeh, ur tellin me, the legs joined a few times, coz i was using a 2.5mm tip. i need a smaller one for these sort of things. now to spend more money on more upgrades.

    • #58098
      Avatar photoAaron
      Keymaster
      • Posts: 2146

      Happy to be of service 😉

      I use a 1mm tip at the moment and it’s still too big ! Seriously thinking about splashing out on a new set of tips for my station including the gear to do SMD stuff like whole chips at once!

      A.

      --
      Site Owner Guy.

    • #58114
      hakhawk
      Participant
      • Posts: 79

      yeh, i used to do playstation mods with a automotive iron, now thats fun. but i havent done much small stuff these days.

Viewing 9 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.