Mini Cooper M03 Shell Painting

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    • #12562
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      I ve built my m03, now I m up to painting the mini cooper shell. But am lost when it comes to masking and painting.

      The roof needs to be painted white, the wheel guards and sideskirts black, the front grill silver and the rest of the body blue.

      Which area should I paint first. The roof ?, then mask it all off, do the wheel guards/sideskirts and front grille with a brush, then spray the inside with blue ? Will the blue show up behind the silver ?

      Any help appreciated.

    • #58614
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Paint darker colours first, white comes last.

      Silver is usually pretty opaque, but pretty hard to paint with a brush (brush marks show up). PS12 Tamiya spray is the best coverage.

    • #58615
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      Paint darker colours first, white comes last.

      Silver is usually pretty opaque, but pretty hard to paint with a brush (brush marks show up). PS12 Tamiya spray is the best coverage.

      Okay, I have tamiya mask the one that looks like sticky tape, but for large surfaces what do I need to buy from the hobby shop to mask it off ?

    • #58618
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      but if your using a brush for the fenders with black paint how many coats do you need to apply so that when you spray later on with a spray can it dont show up and through the black? is it 3 or 4?

      im trying to work out how to do the roof aswell kev let us know what you get to cover up that thing.

    • #58619
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      You can use any masking tape.

      Scotch/3M makes some good ones; the best is Tamiya’s own yellow masking tape or the Scotch/3M blue one (car paintshops use it). Good tape gives clean lines!

      You can buy cheaper tape (beige stuff) to fill in the rest, after you line the edges with the expensive stuff.

    • #58621
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      or tape a peice of paper or plastic over the larger areas.
      my 1:10 bodies only got 2 coats of paint and that’s all they needed. like pb said, dark colour first.:8ball:

    • #58622
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      Thanks for the help guys. This is what I’ll plan to do hopefully it won’t be too much work.

      1. Mask off body portion next to wheel guards and side skirts.
      2. Paint wheel guards and side skirts with black pc paint, several coats with brush.
      3. Mask off body portion of front grill.
      4. Paint front grill with silver/chrome pc paint, several coats with brush.
      5. Remove Masking in points 1 & 3.
      6. Mask off front grill, all windows, and Roof.
      7. Paint body with blue pc paint spray can.
      8. Remove roof mask.
      9. Mask body around roof.
      10. Paint roof with white paint.
      11. Remove all masking.

      I envy those people that can do those fancy air brush designs…

      🙂

    • #58623
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      me too!:smiley2:

      i’m no expert but here’s what i would do:

      1. mask everything first, leaving the “blue” section clear. paint it blue. you can go a bit thick and messy as the outer side won’t show all those surface blemishes like “orange peel” and drips.

      2. remove the roof mask and paint the whole thing white (so all the blue is covered.

      3. remove the wheel mask and do your black guards. (try to stay on the guards, no need to go everywhere)

      4. remove the grille mask and paint silver (again, just the grille.)

      5. remove the window mask and bash it til it dies!:D

      the most important part is the white layer. it should stop any of the black silver showing through to the outside. do 2 white coats if you wanna be sure.:8ball:

      Edited by – betty.k on 21 February 2005 21:00:26

    • #58624
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      or you can buy a tamiya decal sheet with the union jack for the roof :smiley2:

      i like the look of the union jack so ill get it, but ill paint the roof white anyway knowing my driving skills(or lack of) it will come off lol

    • #58625
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      i would do alot more than 2 coats.. i tend to do about 10 thin coats it gives u a arsome covering and solid flawless colour

    • #58631
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      me too!:smiley2:

      i’m no expert but here’s what i would do:

      1. mask everything first, leaving the “blue” section clear. paint it blue. you can go a bit thick and messy as the outer side won’t show all those surface blemishes like “orange peel” and drips.

      2. remove the roof mask and paint the whole thing white (so all the blue is covered.

      3. remove the wheel mask and do your black guards. (try to stay on the guards, no need to go everywhere)

      4. remove the grille mask and paint silver (again, just the grille.)

      5. remove the window mask and bash it til it dies!:D

      the most important part is the white layer. it should stop any of the black silver showing through to the outside. do 2 white coats if you wanna be sure.:8ball:

      Edited by – betty.k on 21 February 2005 21:00:26

      You’re a legend.

      That’s sounds bloody good to me.

      I’m off to the hobby shop to buy some spray paint.

      🙂

    • #58632
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      ok…i did my first tamiya mini body this way, first hand painted the black guards, tape the roof(this can be tricky due to how it is molded)or you can do it first, you DONT HAVE TO PAINT DARK TO LIGHT EVERY TIME!!!!!! then do your main colour then the roof, or what ever way you feel easiest doing it. 4 or 5 light coats will do for any colour. hope this helps????? prob confused you even more
      :D:) hope to see it next sunday.

      BIG DAVE

    • #58704
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      just a bit of advice needed for me guys.

      if i put a thin layer of silver down then paint over it with blue would the blue come out through the silver?

    • #58705
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yes it probly would

    • #58706
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      just a bit of advice needed for me guys.

      if i put a thin layer of silver down then paint over it with blue would the blue come out through the silver?

      I’m doing what betty and mini-g said. I’ve masked the windows, roof, front grill and sides of the wheel arches/side skirts. This took me about 4 hours to do with tape and hobby knife.

      I’ve hand painted the wheel arches/side skirts black, several coats so that brush marks don’t show.

      If I get time tommorow, I’m going to spray a few coats of blue. remove the masking on the front grill and hit the front with silver, then finally remove the masking tape from the roof and hit the whole shell with several coats of white.

    • #58707
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeah thats the way.. once ur all done.. i would suggest leaving the window masks on and doing a thick coat (via many thin coats) of white to protect ur paint from wheel rubbing or internal scraches

    • #58718
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866
      Quote:
      …thick coat (via many thin coats) of white to protect ur paint from wheel rubbing or internal scraches

      use tape – gaffer tape, PVC tape, electrical tape…

      No paint is immune to friction. 👿

    • #58719
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeah but it helps.. the other trick i have picked up is do teh top of your wheel wells with some ofcuts of polycarb and some shoo goo which would help strengthen them.. and any were where a body shell normally cracks

    • #58810
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      Hey, here’s an update… my first lexan paint job… woo hoo.

      Thanks for all the advice and help !

      Now for the stickers….

      🙂

    • #58811
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      that is very nice man!

      too bad you will race it. :smiley2:

    • #58812
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      good work! that turned out just as you said it would. and that aint easy!:smiley2::8ball:

    • #58814
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      sweet looking mini..

    • #58815
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      Good Job,
      Like mini-g said, cant wait to see the thing in action down the park :):):smiley2:

    • #58817
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      i think he will keep that 1 as a shelf item wouldnt you?

      ill show you guys what a real mini suppose to look like on sunday all beat up and lots of dings in it! lol

    • #58820
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      Yeah, after all the time spent on it, I think it might be a display shell. So far it’s taken:

      1 hour cutting/dremel the lexan body
      4 hours masking tape body prep.
      4 hours painting over several days – bloody paint fumes.
      ? hours putting decals on…

      $35 worth of tamiya paint.

      I’ll get a frewer mini body for racing – they don’t come with any decals, so I’ll just slap 2 different tones of paint on it and be done with it.

    • #58821
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487
      Quote:
      i think he will keep that 1 as a shelf item wouldnt you?

      no!:D:8ball:

    • #58823
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      frewer minis do come with decals..ii would STRoNGLY suggest one, the tamiyas dont last eg 1 race and its gone only reason u would run one is for TCS

    • #58826
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      frewer minis do come with decals..ii would STRoNGLY suggest one, the tamiyas dont last eg 1 race and its gone only reason u would run one is for TCS

      Thanks for that Merc. I called the aussie distributor down in adelaide and they said that it didn’t (perhaps it was the last one they had in stock). But I sure hope it does come with all the decals and window masking. They’re a hard item to find…
      🙂

    • #58828
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      castle hill raceway has them in stock kev… just pop up on friday night and get one.

      BIG DAVE

    • #58830
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      and they do have the decals in the bag, i’m certain i saw them in there… Kev; glad i’m only doing one colour, so i dont have 4 hours of masking to look forward to, but i did cut out my body last night (S15 Sylvia) and it took about an hour and a half or so, with the wings and such. Who knows how long the decals are going to take me, they’re not die-cut!! (not that i expected that…) I might have to start a “first time painting body” topic shortly…:smiley2: Coming along nicely though…:approve:

      Edited by – dgs73 on 09 March 2005 10:59:53

    • #58835
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      so castle hill is a track and has a hobby store on site aswell aye?

      my mini’s paint job is qik cheep and nasty but hey ive always been into racing my cars not presentation. thats my excuse for lack of skill and patients.

    • #58836
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      castle hill raceway has them in stock kev… just pop up on friday night and get one.

      BIG DAVE

      Excellent. Also how much are they ? Kellets have them for $35.

      9pm not too late to show up ? Wouldn’t mind checking out the racing as well.

      Cheers.

      :smiley16:

    • #58837
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      this is the case… only minor parts, ie. tyres, inserts, bodies, spur and pinion gears, afew other bits ‘n bobs… usually a few things for sale through the racers too, you’ll see fliers up from time to time… that’s how i got my TC3… with the type of work i’m in at least i should be able to do a half decent job on my painting without too much hassle…

    • #58838
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      Kev; if you want to race you’d have to be there by 6:30-7:00pm, would be good to see you guys there!!

    • #58843
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      Kev; if you want to race you’d have to be there by 6:30-7:00pm, would be good to see you guys there!!

      Damn… I don’t get home till around 8pm… then it’ll take me a good 40 minutes to drive up to castle hill from where I am.

      Would’ve been good for a race though.

      Talldude won the finals last Sunday…

    • #58845
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      sweet… good stuff TD!! Shame your not able to get ther earlier, but registration closes at 7ish… we’re usually there till about 12am or so… sometimes it runs longer, but not much. Bring a jumper if you’re coming, it can get cool out that way later in the evening…

      Edited by – dgs73 on 09 March 2005 14:32:55

    • #58846
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267
      Quote:
      Quote:
      castle hill raceway has them in stock kev… just pop up on friday night and get one.

      BIG DAVE

      Excellent. Also how much are they ? Kellets have them for $35.

      9pm not too late to show up ? Wouldn’t mind checking out the racing as well.

      Cheers.

      :smiley16:

      yeah 9pm will be fine, just in time for the finals. think the mini’s are $35 there too, no more than that. hopr to see you there.

    • #58866
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      talldudemini0rf.jpg

      this is my mini in action, the yellow is a good racing colour as it actually allows me to see the thing in action!

    • #58870
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      That’s very nice. Photo looks like you’re drifting around the corner.

      *LOL* front body pin shows you were in a hurry to get some run time.

      😀

    • #58874
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      lol

      whoops ahh who cares it was still fun to drive it pitty i didnt get much of a runtime missed out on getting more time due to me rocking up late to free practice.

      will perfect the mini next time i swear kev!

    • #58877
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      looking good TD… that’d be easy to see no matter how many people on the track!!

    • #58878
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      Looks like I’ve stuffed up applying the decals on my m03 shell, got air bubbles, rips and wrinkles… It’s quite hard applying the front headlights on without any wrinkles for some strange reason. There’s got to be a special technique of some sort. Do they need to be heated up slightly with a hair dryer first ?

      Oh well, race shell now…

      😀

    • #58879
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267
      Quote:
      Looks like I’ve stuffed up applying the decals on my m03 shell, got air bubbles, rips and wrinkles… It’s quite hard applying the front headlights on without any wrinkles for some strange reason. There’s got to be a special technique of some sort. Do they need to be heated up slightly with a hair dryer first ?

      Oh well, race shell now…

      😀

      the hair drier does come in handy for this purpose, so yes.

    • #58880
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      you could buy some more decals?

      if you race that shell in 5mins it will look like shit 🙁

    • #58882
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      Looks like I’ve stuffed up applying the decals on my m03 shell, got air bubbles, rips and wrinkles… It’s quite hard applying the front headlights on without any wrinkles for some strange reason. There’s got to be a special technique of some sort. Do they need to be heated up slightly with a hair dryer first ?

      Oh well, race shell now…

      😀

      try applying with a MILDLY soapy warm water (not much), and work from one edge to the other, squeezing out liquid as you go. The soapy water helps the thing from grabbing straight away, so if it’s not in the right place you have a chance to move it. It evaporates out fairly quickly, but you’ll obviously have to wait longer before it’ll be ready to use. Dont heat them; it’ll make the glue even grippier… the water meothod is what we use to apply vinyl signage to glass, acrylic and other annoying surfaces, and i found it carried over to this application quite well. But TD is right; no matter how good you apply your decals, one good nights racing will see alot of them damaged anyway…:dead:

    • #58886
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      hey dgs, that’s a killer tip. you should write up a little tute on decal application, i know you gots skillz in that area:smiley2::8ball:

      Edited by – betty.k on 11 March 2005 15:48:27

    • #58895
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      DGS, you’re a legend. Excellent tip ! Thanks for sharing.

      You’ve just cut my decal applying time into half. Not only that, your methods do give time to adjust the decal to the right place before the glue kicks in.
      :):D

      The finished product…

    • #58899
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      glad it all worked out for you, it looks pretty damn good. Cant wait to help rub some off again…:smiley2::D. Glad you and betty found my tips useful…:)

    • #58902
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      glad it all worked out for you, it looks pretty damn good. Cant wait to help rub some off again…:smiley2::D. Glad you and betty found my tips useful…:)

      LOL, took it for a run on the street, hit a small tree branch and did four to five somersaults in the air before landing and sliding another 6 metres on the ground. It’s all scratched up and has a hole in the roof from impact.

      Merc is absolutely right about these Tamiya shells, they’re very fragile ! Tamiya radials have turned to slicks…

      Looks like I’ve got to get another shell soon…

      Didn’t make it up to Castle hill on Friday night… Work colleague lent me 5 xbox games and I couldn’t control myself and had to play.

      😀

    • #58904
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      damn!

      sorry to hear about the incident. my shell is not looking good no more but hey its for racing.

      your right about those tires they arent that great.

    • #58907
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      damn!

      sorry to hear about the incident. my shell is not looking good no more but hey its for racing.

      your right about those tires they arent that great.

      Yeah, I’m not fussed about it, don’t really have the space to put a lexan display shell, so basically just used it and had fun with it ! But it was good learning the ropes in how to paint/mask and decal them, so next time it should be easier.

      Fitted the manta ray ball diff and hollow carbon gear shafts last night, you got to take half the car apart to do that ! Don’t think I want to adjust the ball diff now…

      These cars are really fun…and very different to drive !

      btw. I may not be going next week to Tempe racing due to royal easter show tickits that were bought for me…:evil: so you might want to charge up your own batts before race day.

    • #58912
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267
      Quote:
      Quote:
      glad it all worked out for you, it looks pretty damn good. Cant wait to help rub some off again…:smiley2::D. Glad you and betty found my tips useful…:)

      LOL, took it for a run on the street, hit a small tree branch and did four to five somersaults in the air before landing and sliding another 6 metres on the ground. It’s all scratched up and has a hole in the roof from impact.

      Merc is absolutely right about these Tamiya shells, they’re very fragile ! Tamiya radials have turned to slicks…

      Looks like I’ve got to get another shell soon…

      Didn’t make it up to Castle hill on Friday night… Work colleague lent me 5 xbox games and I couldn’t control myself and had to play.

      😀

      hey kev, you think slicks are bad!!!! mine has the foam coming through…..and after saying hello to a netball post the crack in my bod has become a hugh tear. got to love them though:D

    • #58928
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      lol those rears have more foam visible than rubber Dave!

    • #58931
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      and there was a guy racing his mini with tires like that the other week at the hill:shock:

    • #58932
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      yeah get HPI x patten tyres and HPI 5 spoke rims and a frewer racing shell .. i hvae only ever broke 1 frewer shell from driving it under a 1:1 car LOL.. and the xpattens kick ass..

    • #58933
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      and there was a guy racing his mini with tires like that the other week at the hill:shock:

      that explains alot… he was all over the place…

    • #58973
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      took my mini out for a run to wear down the batts (its been that long since i run them thatthey still had charge since 2 sundays ago!)

      and all i got was smiles from people, everyone seems to love the mini!

      big bonus is nothing is broken no rollovers but i did bold two tires.

      bring on sunday, im ready for the track lol

    • #58983
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      yeah, i was thinking that double wide lanes using the Z track… should be perfect for the 1/10s… we’re talking 8 foot wide lanes here, with no doubt 4 cars… bring on Sunday!! And p**s off rain!!!

    • #58985
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      yeah rain dont look good might ruin my free weekend!

      i like your track idea dave should be good.

    • #58994
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      mate with this scale we can successfully use the carpark at Meadowbank if it rains… i’ll do the sweeping…:smiley2: plus, the pillars will give us an extra challenge…:D keeping my eye on the weatherwatch site, and Sunday (at the moment) is looking like it migt be clearing… but we’ll see. Fingers crossed eh?

    • #58995
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      with this scale you would be better of going to Jasco if it rains…!:smiley2:

    • #58996
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020

      More space is all:)

    • #58997
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179
      Quote:
      with this scale you would be better of going to Jasco if it rains…!:smiley2:

      that’s where i was talking about…:D hopefully there wont be any need though…

    • #59016
      dgs73
      Participant
      • Posts: 2179

      looks like it’s clearing up over this way… amy it stay that way for Sunday… though i think i may have spoken too soon…:smiley2:

    • #59182
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Hi, just bought new wheels and a body for my M03 mini… but, will these new wheels fit on it?

      b7_1_b.jpg

      Edited by – minioned on 05 April 2005 06:21:45

    • #59183
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      yeah they will fit no problems.

    • #59184
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Thank god for that, Ive been trawlin google and because I noticed that the middle screw bit was different. I think these wheels look REALLY nice, if you want them, go on eBay, quite a few sets on there for cheap! Mine were less than ?10 for 4

      Also… what tires would I need for them?

      Edited by – minioned on 05 April 2005 07:44:44

    • #59188
      bithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …any interest in these if i can get them?

      lancerj.jpg

      imp1j.jpg

      …I will start another thread if you need more…

    • #59189
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      hmmmmmmm

      what other styles do you have acces to?

      more interested in fewd bodies due to some clubs only allowing fwd bodies on ff cars.

    • #59190
      bithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …These are M-03 chassis bodies though..3rd party, made locally here..I have never seen them else where though…

    • #59191
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      I like them shells! How much for one (Subaru) to the UK :D?

    • #59192
      peteWah
      Participant
      • Posts: 1020
      Quote:
      …These are M-03 chassis bodies though..3rd party, made locally here..I have never seen them else where though…

      I was wondering why they were so squashed up, I guess its good to have something different…:smiley2:

      I do like the Lancer:smiley2:

      lancerj.jpg

      Edited by – peteWah on 05 April 2005 18:41:17

    • #59195
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      I remember seeing a body for this chassis of a Mini Estate, anybody know where I can get one? I saw one on eBay a while back

    • #59206
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Just been looking at the petrol tamiya mini… and the wheel bearings look different, will I have to get different wheel nuts to put the larger wheels on my electric one? Pic here: http://img154.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img154&image=582114pl.jpg

    • #59207
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      minioned there are many different nitro minis.. the best is probly the HPI mini pro the eletric version i also very good.. remember guys there are alot of 1:12 shells around becasue xray and yokomo make 1:12 tourers..
      finaly later today (probly in lunch break im gonna post my m03 build up/hop up guide

    • #59208
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      no the wheel nuts are the same…gust the wheels make them look different.

      BIG DAVE

    • #59210
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      ok guys no pics yet but this is what the beast has
      Hollow carbon Gear Shafts
      TA03 Ball Diff
      Hardened Ball Diff Outdrives
      Tamiya Mini Universal drive shafts
      Stainless Steel suspension hinge pins
      Front Ti turnbuckles
      Tamiya TRF shocks
      alloy front uprights
      rear toe in uprights
      antiroll bar kit
      alloy motor mount
      and probly others i forgot :S
      of the lot the parts i recomend mostly are
      antiroll bars
      unis
      bearings (a given)
      ball diff
      trf shocks (or mini CVAs if ur cheap)
      rear toe in uprights
      front aloy uprights
      once u got that u got a good racer once u got more it just tweaks the car
      but seriously anti roll bars are arwsome ina mini make it really easy to adjust suspention and help stop it rolling the alloy uprights wont bend like all the stock ones do the ball diff just well.. it make quite a difference in ur steering and same with unis .. (never have understeer again) the rear toe in will keep the “twitchy” car stable (the mo3L is extreamly stable with this) and the trf shocks cause there oh so smooth and easy to adjust
      also running x pattern tyres (love em) and a cooper body (untill i can be bothered getting a bmw mini).. will edit and fix this up later with more indepth info

    • #59211
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      so theyll DEFINANTELY fit yeh? Im really worried about them not fitting cos I love them!! I hacked the wheel arches off my old shell to see if I could make more room! Luckily Im getting a new one 😀

    • #59212
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      hey merc found this site for m04’s

      http://rcontario.com/rcorevms2004.html

      can i ask what the universal drive shafts do?

    • #59213
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      there bassicaly more efficent that the dogbones and also when ur steering is “full lock” they dont pinch like the dogbones do so it allows u to acctually use full lock.. also gotta trim ur EPA down with alloy uprights or u can tear up ur servo gears then u steer past the max the knuckle will allow

      Edited by – merc-blue on 07 April 2005 11:46:16

    • #59214
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      dude i know this might sound bad but bloody hell improve your typing skills i can bearly understand what your trying to say!

      as for hop ups i got basically all that you have except the universal drive shafts. the mini handles fine have yet to race it.

    • #59215
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      dude i know this might sound bad but bloody hell improve your typing skills i can bearly understand what your trying to say!

      as for hop ups i got basically all that you have except the universal drive shafts. the mini handles fine have yet to race it.

      yi man gt da unis day r pritty good. no cliking noises wen turning.

    • #59216
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430
      Quote:
      Quote:
      dude i know this might sound bad but bloody hell improve your typing skills i can bearly understand what your trying to say!

      as for hop ups i got basically all that you have except the universal drive shafts. the mini handles fine have yet to race it.

      yi man gt da unis day r pritty good. no cliking noises wen turning.

      ha ha kev :p

    • #59217
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      shit yeah that one was exceptionaly bad wasnt it.. i’ll edit it

    • #59218
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      thanks man now that makes sense.

      i use a manta ray ball diff it seems okay. i got some hpi tires but have yet to run them.

    • #59220
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      thanks man now that makes sense.

      i use a manta ray ball diff it seems okay. i got some hpi tires but have yet to run them.

      I use the manta ray ball diff as well, but don’t really like it that much as even when the thing is tightened up, the diff action is still fairly loose. but hey, better than the gear diff.

    • #59221
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      yeah i aint a great fan of it aswell…….

      i wonder how the other type goes?

    • #59223
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      yeah i aint a great fan of it aswell…….

      i wonder how the other type goes?

      Yeah not sure if the ta03 ball diff is any better ? But I don’t think I’ll be getting the other one unless the existing one breaks.

      I also got the shorten touring car springs, makes my m03 chassis sit with a 8mm ride height and finally the wheels don’t sit with positive camber.
      🙂

    • #59225
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      TA03 ball diff is good tighten it up and it may aswell be a spool..

    • #59226
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      TA03 ball diff is good tighten it up and it may aswell be a spool..

      That’s odd. The ta03 ball diff looks very similar to the manta ray ball diff where both diffs use those metal cones to apply pressure to the diff plates.

      I think I’ve tightened the manta ray ball diff as much as it will go, but don’t want to tighten it any further for fear of stripping something. Although it doesn’t slip now, there is still plenty of easy diff action – but too much for my liking.

      🙂

    • #59228
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      nah the ta03 uses plates and has a race bearing (not sure is mantaray does)

    • #59229
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      both diffs are the same except the ta-03 has a thinner plastic gear. i put an extra shim in mine to lock it up as much as possible.

      BIG DAVE

    • #59231
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      ok.. well mini-g that depends cause there is a ta03 and a ta03R gear diff im runing the 03-r cause it lighter

    • #59233
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      yeah but the two ball diffs i am talking about are the same except the said gear. the 03 and 03r diffs are the same. just put an extra cone shim in the diff and do it up as tight as it will go. you feel a definate stop when the diff is fully tightened.

      BIG DAVE

    • #59234
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      yeah but the two ball diffs i am talking about are the same except the said gear. the 03 and 03r diffs are the same. just put an extra cone shim in the diff and do it up as tight as it will go. you feel a definate stop when the diff is fully tightened.

      BIG DAVE

      Okay thanks for the tip Big Dave. Is the extra cone shim available at the hobby store as a tamiya spare parts bag or a good hardware store ?

    • #59236
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      hmmmmm took my mini out for a spin today, notice it turns more tighter in one direction then the other!

      might change my tires on sunday if i still get the same results looks like another rebuild of the diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    • #59238
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974
      Quote:
      hmmmmm took my mini out for a spin today, notice it turns more tighter in one direction then the other!

      might change my tires on sunday if i still get the same results looks like another rebuild of the diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

      I don’t think its a diff problem. I think its more to do with the centering of the servo and the end point adjustments (epa) that you need to make on the 2pl controller.

    • #59240
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      ahhh cool show us how to do it man on sunday it would be cool :smiley2:

    • #59269
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Anyone know where I can get the spotlights that are on Tamiya Monte Carlo Minis in some pictures?

    • #59270
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      minioned if u can track down the tamiya monte carlo body/body parts set best bet is probly http://www.tamiyaclub.com but remember tamiya shells are WEAK and one crash and they look MESSED up

    • #59271
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Are there any other shells made by other companies that will fit on the M03 chassis? I dont really race mine, just play wiv it in the park so crashing doesnt happen that often 😀

    • #59272
      mini-g
      Participant
      • Posts: 267

      yes frewer make a direct replacment.

      BIG DAVE

    • #59273
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      got a link to a pic of it and any idea of price 😀

    • #59274
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      miniowned the frewer is a basic mini shell doesnt have all the fancy bits the montecarlo has its just a plain very bassic min and the would be really cheap over therew say 15ish pounds

    • #59284
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Ok, I’ll have a look around 😀 Thankyou

    • #59353
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      http://img224.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscf59832tc.jpg

      Mines done 😀 😀 What you think???

    • #59354
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      thats hott..
      great job.
      PS. what wheels are they i picked up like 4 sets off a mate and hae NFI wat they are .. eg. brand?

    • #59355
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Theyre the standard Tamiya ones, they were black(reinforced) but I painted them white. Im quite happy with them, look look great 😀

    • #59360
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      Reinforced black wheels can be soaked in acetone to dissolve the superglue (& paint!).

    • #59363
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      ok guys i tracked down them comical bodys turns out there at RCmart the made by northcraft http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_438&products_id=11287 check it out

    • #59364
      PandaBear
      Participant
      • Posts: 1866

      They aren’t all that flash… TFTR fellas tried them out in 2003 I think. 🙂

    • #59367
      minioned
      Participant
      • Posts: 13

      Does anyone have or know where I can get the decal sheet for the M03 Mini Cooper body?

    • #59368
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547
    • #59371
      merc-blue
      Participant
      • Posts: 1547

      PS.. any one looking to get a mini.. PM me i might be selling my hoped up mini + spares + ESC+ batterys pretty cheap (wanna concentrate on my tourer)

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