MOSFET for Mini-x ESC?

[jollyboss]

Hello!
I’ve purchased the mini-x esc and noticed that there’re 2 empty slot,apprently for two fet.
Are those slots to put a couple of mosfet to increase the amperage?in case where can I find those V30010 mosfet(secon line says T046L)?

Thanks!

[henal]

Yea I cam across this some time back but if I’m right all you will have to do is get some TO-220 FETs and just solder them in there places I think there both N channel mosfets
here is a pic to help other people find out

[klims]

would be easier to just work out if they are N or P an buy some high quality fets in the TO-220 package

[Dangerous Dave]

the speedy is pretty robust in standard trim, mine passed enough current to melt the chassis and runs perfectly.

It’s the stoopid receiver that aint worth nuthin’ ..

oh, and the motor should be embedded in the designer’s skull

[jollyboss]

I don’t have a mini-x chassis/motor…I’d like to use the esc on another model and since I have burnt an EB,and since the ESC is rated for 8A,putting some better fet it SHOULD be able to run a middle power motor…or not?

I didn’t got well..are there several kinds of TO220?which shall I get for the ESC?
Maybe a link to purchase them…
Thanks!

[henal]

well how about you can get the mest mosfet in that packages like 150 amps with 30 volts and like 0.001 rds and you dont even have to worry about it over heating as it has an in build heat shink

[jollyboss]

ok I’ve found several TO220,the last questions(I hope)
shall I desolder the fets built or just solder the new one into the empty slot?
Shall I put NPN or PNP mosfet?

[henal]

well you might aswell replace with the new one as the old one will just add on resistance but i think there are n channel mosfet but i might be wrong try looking for the old mosfet for its data sheet

[klims]

i have no idea what package those mosfets are, but there is actually an easy way to check if its p or n chan.

in a p-chan mosfet the current flows from source(S) to drain(D) as can be seen on any data sheet. however the trick is that the source(S) leg on a p-chan MUST be connected to power(+).

in the opposite way in an n-chan mosfet the current flows from drain(D) to source(S) and the source MUST be connected to ground(-).

so if you have a multimeter you will be able to touch the legs on the mosfets and see what is connected to what, and determine which is N and P. oh and there have to be both types because thats how a h-bridge works!

now this is just a guide, but from the picture henal provided it looks like the one on the right is a p-chan and the one on the left is an N-chan, assuming the red and black are power wires and the white and pink are motor.

[ATTACH]439[/ATTACH]

hey dangerous dave i think it was you i was giving instructions on how to check mosfet type. this way just occured to me. its way easier:)

[jollyboss]

Yes the blanck and red wires are power from batteries…
How shall I use the multimeter to che the channel?I mean,which parameter shall I select on the multimeter(Voltage,ohm,ecc)
Thanks!

[klims]

well you want to check for continuity between the red wire and one of the pins and the black wire and one of the pins. on most multimeters there is a setting in the OHM section that beeps when you touch the probes together. you want to use that one.

i should also mention that you will need to disconnect the motor when doing this and make sure none of the motor, battery wires are touching

[jollyboss]

here’s the results:
I’ve put negtive tester on black wires,red tester on the left mosfet legs,starting from left the values were,respectively:1-1-0,5

Then I’ve put positive tester on red wires and negative on the right mosfet legs,heres’ tha value: 1-0,5-1

Now,got this datas,which channel are these mosfet?
Sorry but I’m a liiiitle noob about electronics 😮 😮 😮

[henal]

there both the same might be n channel mosfet as there both the number

[henal]

well i have been doing some research for you and i found a gold mine

since im not allowed to post other links of forums (am i?) i will just give his name so all credicts goes to him even though its very simple but i still have to give him name as i am copying and paisting him information

well let me first say him name and
drum roll

---

his name is helldriver

---

drum roll

say GOODBYE to FET V3100!

“Since I got no FETs V3100 here, I was adviced to replace it with IRFZ40. Now it’s WORK! The specs of this FET is higer than stock FET V3100. It’s allow u to use 7.2V and 180 class motor without any heat to those fets. It can handle 55v and has output more than 49A. Wanna try?

Pic: yes, I spread it to put in the FET soldered. Too big for the board. Hehehe…”

ok now this is me now here is the data sheet for the mosfet so you lot dont have to search it for your self

http://adm.lacitec.on.ca/~ymicha/data/discrete/IRFZ40.PDF

looking at the ON resistance its preaty good at 10 volts its only 0.022 and thats just the one of them so stacking them two extra more will lower it to 0.011 and dont forget that the esc has space for anoter set which still dring it down to 0.0073 and if im right and the esc uses both of them to drive the motor so there are allready connect in pallarel so thats 6 mosfet used the on resistance will be 0.003 but really its point less as first it wount all fit and the esc won’t even be able to power all them mosfets to give you that kind of resistance

but the best option is just use a diffrent mosfet and the one his using is very big and pointless as a 130, 180, and up to 380 will not ever pull more then 30 amps

and this his his pic of how it looks it looks really big but im sure you lot can just use a diffrent mosfet which is smaller

and his using a v1 board

[betty.k]

we don’t have a problem with you posting links;) :8ball:

[jollyboss]

I’ll post it,its’ from tinyrc.com
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14028

Thanks a lot henal!
Your help is great!!!

:worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship:

[henal]

@betty.k 226309 wrote:

we don’t have a problem with you posting links;) :8ball:

its just some fourms are stupid and there dont let you post other forum links

@jollyboss 226310 wrote:

I’ll post it,its’ from tinyrc.com
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14028

Thanks a lot henal!
Your help is great!!!

:worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship:

your welcome jollyboss

[betty.k]

oh, we’re definately a stupid forum! but we let you post links:D :8ball:

[jollyboss]

^^^:D 😀 😀 ^^^

well..now with that 50-100A esc we can run 2 plasmatomic toghether…wahahahahahahah:smiley15:

…whops,we’d need an half kilo lipo…

[henal]

omdz im jelous now i can not even run that with my spy oh yea about the mini x electronics tell me one thing is the esc good or its just shit

[jollyboss]

as I find those mosfet and try I’ll surely make a review and maybe a video…I’ll probably use on my nanodragon with the inopo motor,that seems a very powerful motor(for $9)…
My only worrying now is about switch,thsoe tiny wires don’t give me the impression to be able to handle more than the stock 8A…

Anyway,on my iwaver 02 I’m fitting a moped esc,similar to the spy(cost less)
I’ll post pics next week maybe.

[henal]

yea i heard of the moped esc and there some good ones and some bad ones you got to be luck to get your self a good one but there look much better then a spy and and a very ultra low rds spy is just bull shit as there lie saying its 25 amps and when you de case it the mosfet used are some 11.5 amps which total suckes

[Dangerous Dave]

I believe the switch on the Mini X ESC only switches the 5V supply to the Rx..

The main power wires do not go through it.

[klims]

besides, you’ll probably blow the tracks first…

[Dangerous Dave]

mate had to repair a track, running 7.4V LiPo.

been fine since.

[jollyboss]

the mini-x esc and the moped can be plug up to 6 NiMh cells,so I don’t think that lith setup will blow them.
A different thing is the motor…I’ll probably use for iwaver with moped an ultra-dash armature in a new ball bearing case,maybe with neos but I don’t know,the ultra dash has a really good torque itself…I don’t think I’ll blow the moped esc with this motor…well I hope!

[jollyboss]

anothe question…with those 49Z fets could the esc run bigger class motors sucj?h as 300 or 400?
I know that the ESC is composed by 2 main parts,controller and fets..will the first burn up running bigger motors?
Thanks!

[klims]

like i said, fets wont burn but the tracks will. a lot of people forget that in cases like these limits are set by track width in most cases.

[henal]

yea most small current esc have small tracks and at a sign of high current there will just get very hot and lift out of the board the best thing to do is just make jumper cable thorugh the motor tracks and the power track to the mosfet that way the wire will be taking most of the current.
but the tracks should be able to handle around 15 amps of current i think

[jollyboss]

15 amps is more than enough for many motors,but here’s my doubt:is the motor draw indipendent from the motor class?
I mean…If I run x2-ls-pro that draws 6A @ no load could I run maybe a 250-300 class motor that,opportunatley geared,has at most 10A draw?

[klims]

of course. the esc has no idea what class the motor is, only what load is sees across it.

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