motor/power usage

[HACHI-RYOKU]

Here’s some info from someone who did some in depth testing of the micro rotors/motors. I was going to break it down and repost it, but I don’t really have the time and I didn’t want the credit to be passed up. “Namuna” put alot of work into this, so I wouldn’t want his effort to go un-noticed. There are a few inconsistancies, but this will give you a good idea of the performance of the many motors. More complete testing should be done in order to call it perfect, but this is the best I’ve seen.

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=eefa5c8a58e1a8aa22a224536a7304d4&threadid=10662

[betty.k]

cool thanks!:smiley16: it’s a very comprehensive guide that confirms some things i suspected and helps take the hassle outta motor choice.
hey micro amps, have a look at the stats for the bit char g 3.0, i think that confirms that a single cell just doesn’t do it justice:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 08 January 2004 06:19:06

[micro_Amps]

Yeah, I’m not sure about the figures quoted on the 3.0 They are crap on single cell cars but are monsters in dual cell or fet modded cars.
I have been watching that thread since the start and it has been interesting, unfortunately he has only done half the job, although he has done a good job given his resources.
No-load current and locked rotor current dont tell you the whole story. Electric motors need to be tested dynamically, not just statically.
To do it properly you need a micro motor dyno. They do exist for 1/10 scale electric, just a little large for our cars though.
I have some drawings and formulas for a micro motor dyno, but I doubt that it will ever eventuate into more than pages in a book of ideas.
:)uA

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