MR 01 or MR 015

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    • #12727
      henal
      Participant
      • Posts: 52

      hi

      im soon getting my miniz mr01 in the post and i was just reading that it does not have a soveo saver which the mr 015 has

      can some one tell me some pro and cons with this two types i know that the mr 015 is new then the mr01 but i was just think that the mr01 might have some pros compair with the mr 015

    • #60126
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      Depending on how you drive, if you constantly smash into things you might want to stock up on some servo gears from the shop. If you keep breaking servo gears then get the alloy first gear. Having said this, I am still running the same servo gears from factory about 3 years ago so if your careful, you will be fine.

      I don’t think there are any pros over the MR015. MR01 doesn’t have brakes or servo saver.

    • #60129
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      I still think the MR01 once fully hopped up is the best handling mini z out there !!! The only thing that comes close is the AWD but I still haven’t seen a FULLY hopped up and sorted AWD yet… But I think once the AWD is fully hopped it will probably be the best !!! but, I will never get rid of my MR01 – IT”S SO CHOICE ! — Sorry Ferris.. hehe

      and if you set your TX correctly and have some skill you can make your MR01 have brakes !!!

    • #60130
      henal
      Participant
      • Posts: 52

      is brake realy nessary because i have a xmod g1 and i got to say that the brake is rubbish

      also it the sorvo gears nice and strong and will it last me long is i just dont crash also i got my mini z from ebay for £30.50p (around 60 to 70 $) is it worth it

      http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Car-Porsche-911-GT1-in-working-order_W0QQitemZ320093847577QQcategoryZ2565QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

      also how is the speed and the handling of the mr01 compair to the other ones

    • #60131
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      I have never used an X mod so I dont know how the braking works on them but I can tell you that the braking on the MR02’s and the AWD mini z’s work really well !!! You can now also get new versions of the MR01 PCB that has the braking feature also !!! about $110 delivered and this also includes a new complete MR01 servo setup !!!

      £30 is about $73aus… That ebay link Mini Z has A few hop-ups and thats so for $70 it’s not to bad.. Also, just incase you dont know already your MR01 doesn’t have the braking feature !!… And the rear tyres on that MR01 are out there and I think would be as useless as tits on a bull !!!

      As I said above, I think the mr01 has the best handling out of all of them once hopped up… Speed wise, it depends what motor you use so in a straight line they can all be as fast as each other !!!!

      just my 2c

    • #60132
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      i had an 01 and gave up on it after breaking at least 10 sets of servo gears. i also managed to destroy a full set of alloy gears too!

      i now have an 02 and i believe it’s the best of the mini z’s. low center of gravity, brake and most importantly a servo saver. i haven’t broken a servo gear since.

      but to your original question if i had to choose between an 01 or 015 i’d choose the 015 :8ball:

    • #60138
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      S#!T dude ! You must be very hard on your car’s man !!!! I have only broken 2 1st gears in the servo and thats in 3 years + !! My MR01 TSC’s at just over 50k’s and I do drive it very hard !!!! The only other parts I’ve even broken is 2 right side 3deg camber knockles !!!

      I have never been able to get an MR02 to handle at all !!! Are you using it in RM or MM ?? I’ve only ever used them in MM but there just too ass endy and want to donut all the time !!!! I’ve tried different springs (side and top), different T plates, different wheels, offsets and widths, different tyres and thats just on the rear !!! I just cant get them to hang on !! even with the Lola body with all that downforce it still just go’s round comming out of the corners !!!! and this thing only tops out at about 30k’s as I haven’t bothered to make it go any faster as it dont handle at this speed… :gatlin:

      If I have to use it in the RM setup to make it hang on then I may as well use my MR01 ….

    • #60144
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      aha, but did you try foams on the rear?

      i drive my z on concrete or tarmac and i’ve found foams to be the best, combined with a properly adjusted ball diff i can’t get it to donut at all!

      i also run with it in the mid mount position. :8ball:

    • #60146
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      MMM I run on concrete too !! I’ve spent forever adjusting the balldiff to different settings !!
      and yep I’ve tried a few different foams on the rear too !! still no luck !!!

      Ya mind if I get a few specs from you ??

      Do you run side shocks ??
      Do you have a top shock setup or do you run the kyosho oil shock with no spring ??
      What notch T plate do you run ?? 1, 2 or 3
      What brand and hardness foams do you run ??

      sorry for all the questions I just want this car to run right !!!

    • #60148
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      yeah i got the same thing going. foams on the back rubber on the front. very hard to spin out

    • #60154
      henal
      Participant
      • Posts: 52

      @betty.k 225260 wrote:

      i had an 01 and gave up on it after breaking at least 10 sets of servo gears. i also managed to destroy a full set of alloy gears too!

      i now have an 02 and i believe it’s the best of the mini z’s. low center of gravity, brake and most importantly a servo saver. i haven’t broken a servo gear since.

      but to your original question if i had to choose between an 01 or 015 i’d choose the 015 :8ball:

      dam thats alot of servo gears i can no way arfored to pay for all them shall i get the car and then sell it back on ebay and wait for a mr o2 to come out or shall i just keep it cause it does have a couple of parts which might be good to keep the mini z for
      and as rcs2die4 said that it handles the best compair to the other ones

    • #60155
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      keep it dude You’ll love it !!!!

      The gear sets are only a few dollors anyway !! as long as you keep it off the walls you’ll be right …..

    • #60156
      henal
      Participant
      • Posts: 52

      mybe over there here are around ?8.50 for the first alloy gear on ebay

    • #60160
      kevsta
      Participant
      • Posts: 974

      It’s getting difficult to source MR01 parts. I would suggest you stock up on some of the less durable parts like servo gears, front knuckles, h-plates.

    • #60172
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      dont bother with alloy gears !!!! the plastic ones dont brake that easy !!

      Just buy a few sets of plastic ones !!! and like Kevsta said a few sets of knockles !!!

      I’ve never broken a H plate !!!

      I dont seem to have any trubble getting MR01 parts !!! I just full hopped up an MR01 for a mate and got every single hop up part made for it !!! even the sway bar which is the hardest part to get hold of !!!

    • #60178
      henal
      Participant
      • Posts: 52

      if im right from the site a mr02 rm motor mount will work on a mr01

    • #60182
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      If your buying from AM’s shop then click on the one for the MR01 !! I don’t know if there is any difference but it’s listed at $2 cheaper so !!!!

      But yes the 02 one will bolt on an 01 weather there is any alignment differences I don’t know

    • #60183
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      @rcs2die4 225275 wrote:

      MMM I run on concrete too !! I’ve spent forever adjusting the balldiff to different settings !!
      and yep I’ve tried a few different foams on the rear too !! still no luck !!!

      Ya mind if I get a few specs from you ??

      Do you run side shocks ??
      Do you have a top shock setup or do you run the kyosho oil shock with no spring ??
      What notch T plate do you run ?? 1, 2 or 3
      What brand and hardness foams do you run ??

      sorry for all the questions I just want this car to run right !!!

      From a post of mine on another forum….

      Quote:
      Concrete racing setups (for RWD chassis like mr-02 or other similar ones, eg: color’s chassis)

      Tyres (front)

      Control in RWD steering on concrete is effective about managing understeer. Get it right and you will find it next to impossible to make your car spin out. You will always want understeer in concrete racing.

      I use any of the following combos (all are 8mm narrow rims since we’re talking the front here).

      -ATOMIC 30 deg A.W Groove-Narrow (AR-143)
      -ATOMIC 40 deg A.W Groove-Narrow (AR-143)
      -KYOSHO Radial Tyre 30 deg (MZW28-30)

      These tyres above I’ve found to be my favorites. The Kyosho radials last longer than the ATOMICS and have a more even grip factor to them during the life of the radial tread.

      Tyres (rear)

      Well we’re talking RWD here and basically it’s all about grip. With concrete FOAMS are the ONLY substance that gives the best grip. Hard slick rubber tyres are OK but ONLY for low power stock motors (non neo magnet), the traction is just enough but put any more power to it and it’s game over.

      Singlehandly (after breaings) foam tyres increase the performance on concrete racing like nothing else. If you had to choose between rear and front tyre mods, mod the REAR first! Can’t stress this enough, foams pwn on concrete.

      The only bugger about them is that they’re hard to get and only come pre mounted. Gandini Racing Products make the best pre mounted foams for the mini-z. Ausmicro is the best source of all the tyres available. (they come in packs of 4)

      http://shop.ausmicro.net/index.php?currenc…3a&filter_id=15

      If you want to buy a HUDY micro truer then you can by GP foams from a few places. http://www.ephobbies.com is one of them. This is a $200+ investment though… Only idiots would do that, lol……

      NOTE: GRP pre-mounted foams do NOT come in ANY offset. This is the bugger. Good for 0deg bodies like the F1 but look like crud on an enzo. Hence why I bought the HUDY and became that idiot, lol…

      My typical setup is this:

      front – ATOMIC 30deg AW groove, narrow.
      rear – GP foams on ATOMIC rims, medium compound.

      If I want tighter cornering I usually go with 40deg slicks. But only after I’ve gone through a few packs and am in the “zone” lol…. The front end will respond sharper to turns on the TX wheel with harder slicks up front.

      As for camber, I use 2deg. You can also use 3 deg for tighter tracks. It helps add grip to the understeer but not in the form of a twitchy response.

      This isn’t the be all and end all, just a guide to what myself and betty.k have found to be best.

      ph2t.

    • #60184
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      Your a champ !!!!

      So you use wides on the rear yeah ??

      So if I use Gandini’s would I get medium compound too ?

      Also PH2T, What rear shocks (top /side) do you use ??

    • #60211
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      i use to run 50degree tires all round with an o-plate and top shock.

      turing radius was wide but it never spun out.

      and trust me you need spares nothing worst then setting up for a day and someting breaking!

      ive broken h-plates happened during a front on crash.

    • #60215
      ph2t
      Participant
      • Posts: 2088

      @rcs2die4 225315 wrote:

      Your a champ !!!!

      So you use wides on the rear yeah ??

      So if I use Gandini’s would I get medium compound too ?

      Also PH2T, What rear shocks (top /side) do you use ??

      Yeah, I run an enzo shell, so 11mm rims on the rear with a wide offset.

      Yaeh, get the medium or soft. The Gandini’s are very strong and will last a fair few packs.

      I don’t use side shocks, (ie: roll shocks). They bind too easily. I just use a medium CF h-plate and the kyosho oil shock (spring removed). this works well. The CF h-plate helps return the roll to centre and the oil shock dampens bumbs in the concrete better than any spring setup ever can. 🙂

    • #60218
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      @rcs2die4 225275 wrote:

      MMM I run on concrete too !! I’ve spent forever adjusting the balldiff to different settings !!
      and yep I’ve tried a few different foams on the rear too !! still no luck !!!

      Ya mind if I get a few specs from you ??

      Do you run side shocks ??
      Do you have a top shock setup or do you run the kyosho oil shock with no spring ??
      What notch T plate do you run ?? 1, 2 or 3
      What brand and hardness foams do you run ??

      sorry for all the questions I just want this car to run right !!!

      sorry i missed your post rcs, but what ph2t quoted pretty much covers it.

      the most important factor in most racing is rear end traction, if you can’t get your back tyres to grip you got nothing.

      that’s kinda what we mean by giving the car understeer, you want the rear end to have way more traction than the front.

      for instance, if i put foams on the front and the rear i get massive oversteer and it usually rolls over.

      the best performing t plates i’ve ever used are the atomic frpt plates. i used the wide one with the hardest spring. only problem is they break too often on rough surfaces. on a nice smooth track they may last better.
      otherwise kyosho h plates are the best.

      my current setup:

      mr02
      iwaver mclaren f1 body
      nelly turbo
      pn racing s04
      9t pinion
      3racing ball diff
      gandini foam tyres & rims (0 degree rims, hard med and soft foams all seemed to grip brilliantly for me. just the softer ones wear quicker than the harder ones.)
      pn racing alloy mm motor mount
      3racing carbon fibre wide t plate
      kyosho oil shock (no spring)
      kyosho skeleton chassis (no biggie, just clear polycarbonate)
      .5 degree toe in tie rod
      3racing kingpins
      iwaver soft front springs
      gpm 2/3 degree cambered alloy knuckles (tighter track = more camber)
      atomic 0 deg narrow front dish rims
      kyosho rubber front tyres, 30 deg radials, 30 deg, 40 deg. (depending on track conditions, colder track = softer tyres.)
      atomic alloy front body clip
      teflon sealed bearings
      alloy wheel nuts
      titanium screwset
      39kph on the tamiya checker.

      alot of that is overkill but it’s very easy and predictable to drive which is important in track racing.

      if you make your z any faster then you may as well take up drag racing, too fast is not as much fun as you think. (just ask jamie kulhanek!:D i watched his z go from 84kph to zero in the space of one barrier!)

      don’t take that as a definative guide but it’s what works for me :8ball:

    • #60221
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      @TallDude – Thanks mate all info helps !!! You broke a T plate in a front on hit ?? Thats a big hit !!! well done !!! LOL

    • #60223
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      @Ph2t – Yeah I was fairly sure that was the setup you ran !! Thanks hay! :topstuff: I’ll give it a red hot go and see what happens..

      I’m running the VDS body so yeah I need wides with 3mm offset I tried some Gandini’s that I had already but I don’t know what compound they are !! But It did make a big difference !!! but it looked like crap on the VDS both style and 0 offset !! I’ll PM you soon to see if you can help wth something !!!

      Thanks again !!!

    • #60224
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      @Betty.K – Thanks heaps for all that info it’s much appreciated !!!! With all this help from you guys I should end up with a sweet 02 !! Finally !!!

      I like my cars to do around 50k’s !! It just seem a sweet speed for me !! I’m use to racing my larger cars that do 100+k’s and these things doing around the 50k mark keeps me on my toes !! Which is how I like it !!! hehe

      Anyway, Thanks again guys !!! I’ll organize a kyosho oil shock and the correct rear wheels and let ya’s know how I go !!!

      P.S. Thats a sweet lookin 02 Betty.K

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