my 7.4V li-poly madforce…..
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well, I’ve gotten futher. This time I’m taking it easy.
I’ve now confirmed that the steering works well and that the RX PCB is getting the 4.8V (exact!) from nelly deluxe. Everything is running smooth sofar.
Also testing with the multimeter on the nelly deluxe PCB I’ve found the new MOSFET drivers are doing their job.
Given all that, now I need to install the mosfets on nelly, at the moment she hasn’t got any. I didn’t want to solder them on until I have verified it was safe. I lost $20USD worth of mosfets the other night by being silly in my analysis and not paying attention. I definately don’t want that to happen again,…:dead:.
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IT FREAKIN’ WORKS!!!
No fet blowouts, no overheating, nothing! Yeah, just pure acceleration. An the torque is INSANE! I’ve still got the challange of putting it all together but I’m sure I’ll get that figured pretty quickly.
All thanks to mah baby…
due to the package type, the n-chan mosfets are located on the other side.
Now, this is what you have to see. The video below is a very small and short one. It shows you how tyres warp so mcuh from the sheer power this thing is puttin out! Bloody brilliant!
DivX, 250KB (0.25MB)
http://users.tpg.com.au/ph2t/lpm/wow.avi
Now all I gotta do is put the bloody thing back together….
ph2t.
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otp, keeping it at 4.8V ensures that the RX electronics is operating withing it’s designed tolerances. Just because a few components might have 6V labeled on them doesn’t mean anything…
besides, I’m bit of a purist…
anyways, I finally got her back together.
Ok, this is it. I can’t believe how fast this thing is now. It is truely insane!
Just checked it on the tammy speed checker, on a half charged li-po pack it’s hitting 42Kph, it will also do backflips on command, lol…..no sh1t…
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 12 August 2004 00:06:03
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OK, lately I’ve been concentrating on improving the little bugger’s handling. Initialy I just focused on being able to lower the chassis but in the end I also extended the wheelbase to its max.
I tried a couple of things and finally decided on this setup.
I raised the front damper mount by just simply putting some nuts in between the plastic mounts and the alloy damper. I also wrapped .2mm enamled wire around the mounts to improve their strength as on my original grey chassis they had cracked eons ago….. I used the really long screws that come in the kyosho Madforce screw set to secure the damper mounts.
The rear is still undecided. Due to the way the rear damper mount is connected to the chassis it poses a more difficult problem. This is where I just was stuffing around and came up with mounting 2 damper mounts on to ear other. I used long screws thoughout and it’s OK stable. I wouldn’t possibly trust it hitting a curb head on, but we’ll see…..
I’ve also extended the wheelbase to the max. I used the shock rods from the rear on the front as well to help level out the steering that was sorta “curled up” (if you know what I mean) by the longer, lower front wheelbase.
She sits pretty well I reakon…..
Under full compression….
That’s low baby! yeah! :p
I’ve also got another lipo pack that’s smaller but the same voltage/capacity, I’m yet to cut out the chassis to fit it in. Sorta half undecided if I should try atomicmods’ li-ions…
ph2t.
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Well, the only real time I get to drive this thing is at night, so I sorta riced it up a bit with 8 leds.
4x5mm White LEDS (a pair per headlight)
2xSMD Red LEDS
2xSMD Blue LEDS
cool!
It’s soo much fun watching this thing zoom by at 30+ kph looking like a fricken ferris wheel of lights at 1am in the morning……
ph2t.
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well, on Sunday I finally got some track time and video down.
lets just say that this little beauty was putting a few 1:10’s to shame.
divx format, 5MB:
http://www.woahnelly.com/stuff/lpm/beast.avi
ph2t.
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ok, here’s some (post) grass bashing pictures, the shell is a wreck again but it’s still better than what it was, it had a huge hole in the top where betty.k’s wireless video was hooked up. I love driving this thing outside and on the grass. Can’t wait for my pin-treaded tyres to arrive, they’re meant to work really well of grass….
ph2t.
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I noticed that the top speed had dropped off a bit. Also the machine still had killa torque, just not the same amount as it had a while ago.
So I thought I’ll pull apart the motor and give it a good servicing…
Now, keep in mind that the li-poly madforce had eaten a normal motor already, so I used a plasma dash armature for its ceramic commutator. This worked out well. The heat this motor generates is enought to seriously burn your skin if you were to touch the metal casing of the motor.
I have not changed anything in this motor since I put it together and broke it in. The motor was made solely for the lipoly madforce after I melted the Ultra Dash motor I had. (sorry bithed…)
During the last 5-6 weeks I’ve kept my eye on the carbon brushes (Xtra speed brand, great brushes!) and I’ve noticed a slow wear down. So I thought now was a time as good as any to do some maintenance on this motor.
Lets just say I’m lucky I did. See the pic below, talk about a mess, the carbon from brushes is everywhere. Notice there is still a bit of carbon left on the brushes, enough for a few more hours of lipo fun yet!
The bell end on the left is the original, the one on a right is a new, never been used bell end. The heat was so strong from the axle that it transfered onto the bearing itself. This caused the bearing to spin and to melt the sorrunding plastic.
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it’s not the number of teeth that matters, it’s the pitch (size). only thing you need to fiddle with is the spacing.
you need to look for mrs4 pinions, they will fit a130 motor and come in larger sizes. the ausmicro shop has a selection of really good alloy pinions,not sure what sizes are in stock though. better check
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