My Handwound Motor….

[jamiekulhanek]

The other day I found some fairly thick wire, and had a few el cheapo electric motors, so i decided to wind my own motor.

I wound 8 turns on and soldered it, polished the comm and got it running.

Well it was fast. I ran it on my mini z off 4 cells bypassing the electronics. It revved very hard, and the tyres began to move off the rim from the centrifugal force.

I hadnt even pressed the start button on the mini 4wd speed checker when….it began to make funny noises, followed by a small bang, progressive slowing and then lots of smoke. It looked quite cool having a car blow up on the dyno 🙂

Upon further inspection of the motor, the winds were still intact, and basically it was fine, apart from the fact that the commutator had shat itself. The comm had got so hot that the retainer ring had melted, allowing the comm segments to move. Due to the centrifugal force, the segments moved into a rotary saw arrangment and had sliced one of the searing hot carbon brushes off, and throwing it into the resin endbell, where it melted itself half way to china.

So in practice, I learnt that the comm/brushes just arent up to delivering the huge power demand of this motor, and apart from the fact of being sliced off, they wore almost completely away.

I will buy a tamiya plasma dash with the open endbell and replaceable brushes, and will have to make a glass fibre retainer ring for the commutator.

[VR-4]

get the pn carse with neo magnets and ball berings. and patter wind your motor it takes a while but its way faster also use more strands of wire i use a 7X4 what is just 4 seprate wires wound you can twist them but it takes a lil power away.

also ballance the motor just make a holder that holds to bearings and spinn the motor and see what end needs weight and add a small ball of epoxy or try drilling the heavy side.

now to run anything lower than a 10 turn you gotta use either a orion esc or a novak spy esc just take a look at how a turbo hooks up and look at the esc and it will all make sence.

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah i wouldnt mind a pn ball bearing case but im guna just stick with the tamiya plasma dash cause the commutator is built to handle lots of power.

How fast will a plasma dash with 6×2 fets be??

Surprisingly my winding was almost perfectly balanced, there was no vibration whatsoever.

Also im new to winding, what do you mean by patter winding??

[VR-4]

wind it in a pattern so its wide at the bottom and thin at the top.

the plasma dash is really really fast faster than a pn 38turn

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah im gonna get one of those cause they are cool.

Which one is the best one, i heard there is 3 models, the JR being the slowest.

[VR-4]

the fastest is the mini 4wd plasma dash the jr is for tamiyas new car like the mini z.

heres the motors you want for diff tacks there all $5 usd but the plsma is $10
atomic tuned
jet tuned
hyper dash
mech dash
ultra dash
plasma dash

there all really good motors and only thing you need ta do is change the brushes on all but the plasma to pn racing brushes.

[VR-4]

i just handwound a motor with flat wire like the trinty flatliners and wow i made a 50 turn thats 2 times faster than the x speed. only prob is the wire is expensive but winding the motor is easyer with it. try ta find the wire then give it a try.

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah ive seen that trinity wire, it gives a better magnetic field.

2 mini4wd plasma dash’s coming up 🙂

[VR-4]

the plasma is like the x speed some times ya get a dud.

i just rewound my phantom 8turn single with flatwire and made it a 5 turn hex and wow that thing hulls mayjor azz.

trinyt did tell me when winding a mini morot keep the strands as flat as i can and they gave me some links to some of the motors they have that will fit in a mini z

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