My MA010 drift setup

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    • #12740
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      OK I have been playing around for a long time with my ma010 and I have found a great setup for drifting that I wonna share as i said that when i had a good setup i would share it with everyone. so i hope that this will help some off you out there, this is my way of giving back to this community that gave a lot of information to me.

      The hole reason I got into the mini scene was to drift But I just wonna add that at the end of the day this setup is tuned to my driving style and a lot of practice is needed…but damn is it fun. Also drifting mini z’s are a lot harder then 1/10 scale cars, my tt01 drifter is so much easier to control, so a lot of practice is needed. Lucky for me I was drifting mini z’s before I done up my tt01 drifter so the transition was very easy.

      Before I started buying after market stuff I was just drifting around with tape on the wheels (clear tape is the best) which is a lot of fun just to get the feel of the car. As I started to get better at it i wanted to get the drift a bit bigger and longer.

      So here are the specs:
      There not much that needs to be done to the stock the MA010 chassis.

      1. Bearing are a must…….it needs to be a full set. Drive shaft and wheels have to have them too.

      2. The car definitely has to be in the long setting (chassis wise) that’s the L setting 94 mm in length. That extra 4mm just makes it a bit easier to spin out.

      3. I added a 3racing 1 degree alum toe arm on the front (that’s the light blue one)

      4. A 3racing 2 degree rear alum toe arm on the back (that the blood red one) (this worked very well for me but i would say to get the 1 deg and the 2 deg and see which one works best for you)

      5. Lay down mod for the crystal for the lower body’s

      6. Atomic drift tyres normal width on the front and wide on the back (these fit like a glove and don’t need gluing).

      7. Atomic Ball diff (ATOMIC #AWD80 with a stiff setting) for the rear.

      8. I added a spacer to the front springs(just under where the spring sits) to make the springs nice and stiff (there is like only a 1mm play in the front suspension when u push it down)

      9. The rear suspension is very springy it’s just standard. Very important to have the front stiff and the back lose.

      I also have a 2×2 FET stack but with the original motor it’s not a necessity.
      That’s about it…

      What I need to get and should be on the list is a alum motor heat sink cause it does get very hot.. That’s going to come soon.

      Some notes:
      Now I just wonna say that the ball diff with the taped tyres did not work out so good for me. I have no explanation for this as a thought it would make a great difference. But when it’s together with the rear 2 degree toe arm and plastic tyres it’s crazy.

      The 2 deg rear toe moves the wheels inwards (it points towards the middle of the car) just a little to make the car drift into a turn very very easy.

      The only problem I am having now is the rear wheels do not sit flat on the ground but I think that’s because of the plastic tyres come to a point in the middle of the tyre.

      The original ma010 motor is good enough for drifting let me just add. I don’t think I will go to hotter motor. It’s plenty to lose traction on tiles and very short pile carpet and floor boards. Maybe not so good for concrete. I would not try running plastic drift wheels on floor boards as it will scratch the hell out of the floor boards, but it will drift crazy. I would just use taped up wheels and maybe an AWD Xspeed motor.

    • #60196
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      Cool info dude !!!..

      Just to let you know I drift at my MUM and DADS when I go there as most of there downstairs is wooden !! I’ve done it with kyosho and atomic plastic drift tyres and it has never left a mark !!! let me assure you ! if it did, I would be dead !!! LOL ….. Its absolutely awesome on wooden floors !! You can hold the biggest, longest drifts !!! it’s insane !!

      It’s been a while since I’ve used any of my Z’s but!! Gone back to no where to use them !!! o well hopefully somewhere will come up soon !!!

    • #60197
      Renton
      Participant
      • Posts: 117

      I have been drifting my since i got it.
      Can you put up some pics of your cars set up? I will do like wise although mine is very stock in the way of toe arms etc

    • #60198
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      here are some pics. i got a vid of the suspension which i will put up as soon as the battery on my camera is charged

    • #60199
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      ok i got the vid of the play in the suspension. its short about 20sec i think.its only 1mb.
      http://members.optusnet.com.au/dashangel/blog_pics/miniz/sus.wmv

      the pic is of the front suspension. that spacer that i put there came with the ma010 chassis kit. i put just 1 under each front spring..

    • #60186
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      sweet ride. would look awesome drifting.

      shell looks pretty unbroken. i demolished my first shell…

    • #60187
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      if a Ferrari had a back seat, I’d swear some 1/28 people were misbehaving inside that car…

    • #60189
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      haha my 1st shell that i had on this which was the black porche with all the racing decals on it from my MR01, has a nice crack on the windscreen from getting stuck under the couch.lol so i put it away its to nice for drifting so i got this one second hand from ebay.

    • #60190
      Renton
      Participant
      • Posts: 117

      did you leave the stock knuckles on it?
      also where did you get the wider wheels for the back from?

      Im currently running the shorter lenght with a sprinter shell on it. It seems to handle similar (i have 1 week old carpet)

    • #60191
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      yeah the knuckles are stock but i am gonna go for alum ones all around but for the back i don’t know what degree to go for cause the camber is stuffed on the back and its wearing the inside of the wheels??? i dunno what one to go for maybe start at 1deg 1st and see how i go.

      and all i wonna do now is strengthen the car so
      i wonna go for bevel cups
      http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOPCAD-10916-Bevel-Cup-Kyosho-Mini-Z-AWD-SV_W0QQitemZ110139281903QQihZ001QQcategoryZ44021QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

      these dog bone joints
      http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOPCAD-10900S-Universal-Joint-Kyosho-Mini-Z-AWD-SV_W0QQitemZ110139281974QQihZ001QQcategoryZ34063QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

      the wider wheels were from rcmart.com
      back wheels
      http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_69_884&products_id=17321
      front wheels
      http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_69_884&products_id=17316

      i might paint them. i dunno yet having to much fun spinning around the house

    • #60192
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      Let me assure you guys !!! Drifting these things wares them out real quick !!!!

      It puts alot of load on the entire drive chain !!

      I’ve had to replace the whole lot just from drifting …. I now need new diffs again !!! Will buy alloy ball diffs this time and see how they go !!!..

      I’ll post my setup soon with some pics…

    • #60193
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      @diehard – don’t but stuff off the rcmart website. im my experience shipping has been very expensive. they have an ebay store called dinball i think that has way cheaper shipping rates.

    • #60194
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      from my experience, I’ve found rcwart to have cheaper shipping than dumball.. but the item price may be cheaper.

      now ya can compare anyway 🙂

      rcs – do you think that drifting wears cars out any faster than racing?
      I’d have thought that drift was easier on the car, as the wheels lose traction, in racing the full drive load is (hopefully) transferred all the way through to the ground.

      I’d be interested to hear what you more experienced guys reckon 🙂

    • #60195
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      this is the thing i wanted to buy all the stuff from dinball but some of the stuff i wanted they didn’t have it for sale on ebay and rcmart did. so thats why i went for rcmart. i thought that 1 shipping rate would be enough and for all the things i got shipping was only 11USD (normal post) and i got

      1x *Yeah Racing (#BCS-0001BU) 1.2mm Long Body Clips (BU)
      1x *Yeah Racing (#BCS-0004BU) 1.2mm Short Body Clips -Big Head (BU)
      1x 3Racing (#AWD-09/2) Rear Toe In Linkage 2 Deg For Mini-Z AWD(RD)
      1x 3Racing (#AWD-10/1) Front Toe In/Out Linkage 1 Deg For Mini-Z AW
      1x ATOMIC (#AR182S) 2mm Alum Lock Nuts (SV)
      1x ATOMIC (#AWD055) White T.S. Type Wheel(N)
      1x ATOMIC (#AWD057) White T.S. Type Wheel(W)
      1x ATOMIC (#AWD80) High Precision Ball Diff. (Front/Rear)
      1x ATOMIC (#AWD94) Drifting Tire Set (Narrow)
      1x ATOMIC (#AWD95) Drifting Tire Set (Wide)

    • #60052
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      @ Dave,

      Yeah Buddy, From my experience It’s way harder on the car when drifting !!!

      I don’t know if it’s from the big revs with no traction or what but my car definitely wears much faster when I’m drifting !!!

      When my car was stock bar the AWD X-speed motor/bb can and I only raced it. It had little to no wear at all on the drive chain parts after countless hours of driving !!!

      But with this same setup bar it had Kyosho drift tires, even on the same track layout, but now drifting of cause !! The wear was noticeable after just a few packs !!!

      IE: My standard front drive shafts now had massive play and on the rear ones, the two half’s (where the plastic joins the metal) were now spinning separately from each other, so I had very little drive to the rear wheels !!, I also noticed way more wear and play in the diff drive cups and also to the diff drive cogs and the center shaft drive cogs !!!

      This made me think. OK, it’s just that they were border line before I started drifting… So I replaced the entire drive line with alloy stuff, bar the diffs, I replaced them with just standard Kyosho ones and Starting drifting again, But after a very short time it started to wear both the alloy drive cups and diffs out again… So I’m now thinking it’s the grip, no grip at big revs thats just to hard on them !!!..

      So you could say that almost the entire drive chain wore out in just a few packs !!!!

      I’ve replaced the drive cups yet again as the wear to them was creating to much play !! but I haven’t replaced the diffs yet, so I’ve pretty much stopped drifting till I get the alloy ones to see if it’s the plastic that is twisting or warping that makes diffs ware out so quickly !!! I don’t know what to do about the drive cups !!!

      Anyway,

      Since I stopped drifting the diffs seemed to be holding up, that was until I put the Red Back in !!!… I haven’t drifted at all with the Red Back, but the extra punch it has created has completely stuffed the warn out rear diff, it slips like mad now !!! LOL … The front is looking a little messy also !!!

      So till I get the alloy ball diffs My AWD is pretty much useless !!! but once I do get them I will test it out again and see if it’s any better or if it just passes the damage off on to something else !!!!

      I’d hate to see how quickly the standard parts would wear out with my motor and the Red Back installed !!! LOL …. I think it’s going to be bad enough with the alloy parts as it is !!!

      I’d be interested in what others have to say also !!!!

    • #60029
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      wow, interesting!! ta rcs …

    • #60032
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      well from what i can see the pinion and spur gear are starting to show 1st signs of ware but nothing to to be alarmed about yet. i have only used this car for drifting so far and i am impressed with the quality of the original kyosho parts so far. i am only running the standard motor that came with the car and that seems to work just fine but i will keep an eye on the ware and let ya guys know what i have to change 1st. although the rear diff that i replaced so far does fell like they maybe a bit of ware in it..

      i have seen the alum pinion’s for the MA010 are there any alum spurs for them i dont recall coming across one yet, even for the drive shaft???? i suppose being so small they can only make them so strong……

    • #60035
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      I think you can get a metal of some sort, center drive shaft that has a metal cog on the front end and you can get metal cogs for the rear end too but yeah I think I’ve seen any alloy spurs yet though !!!

    • #60037
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      one thing i just thought about too is then you would need metal diff gear.

    • #61547
      TallduDe
      Participant
      • Posts: 1430

      how is your drift set up going?

      im about a cm away from ordering a awd (at last). need all the help i can get to get the perfect drift set up.

    • #61554
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      Hay Talldude,

      Mate I cant really comment as I still haven’t replaced my diffs !! LOL

      been flat out an also dont have anywhere to drive anymore soo…

      but my setup is awesome to drift with but yeah it is hard on the cars though !!!

      either way you’ll love it man !! do your self a faver and get one !!!

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