New 1/28 pan chassis, Greyscale Racing MRCG

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    • #12716
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      mmproto078sji0.jpg

      Introduction
      The MRCG project was intended from the very beginning to create the most effective chassis to ever compete in 1/28 RC car racing; to be a user-friendly, versatile machine that maximizes the driver’s potential on any given track. Based on Kyosho’s proven Mini-Z MR02 platform, we have created a new chassis from the ground up that combines smart engineering with specially-chosen materials to gain an edge in the budding market of 1/28 open-class competition.

      At a glance
      – Built on the race-proven Mini-Z MR02 platform; uses many MR02 parts
      – Super-soft, highly adjustable flex plate suspension
      – Tools-free quick-release battery system designed for endurance racing
      – Ultra-low center of gravity and polar moment of inertia
      – Durable 1.5mm/0.8mm FRP chassis
      – Lightweight FRP/Delrin rear pod
      – Unique 2-piece motor mount works with any 130-can motor
      – Unique tierod steering system with optimized Ackerman
      – Fully adjustable suspension: spring rate, preload, droop, ride height, camber, toe, roll center, damping
      – 94 or 98mm wheelbase
      – Compatible with Mini-Z MR02 bodies and polycarbonate bodies
      – Hand-finished and pre-assembled chassis

      Features

      Ultra low center of gravity and polar moment of inertia
      Like any good racing chassis, the batteries, motor, servo and electronics are positioned as low as possible to achieve an optimal center of gravity. But more gains are achieved in the actual chassis itself: the upper deck of the chassis and the top plate of the rear pod are reduced in size, thinner material is used for the servo strap, tierod, and battery strap, the upper tower for the front suspension is entirely removed, the motor mounts secure to the bottom of the rear pod, etc., all of which lower the CG even more. With the motor placed amidships and the narrowest battery configuration possible, the MRCG also achieves an extremely low polar moment of inertia. This combined with the ultra-low CG provides unparalleled steering response and corner speed.

      Unique rear suspension
      The MRCG’s unique interpretation of the side flex plate suspension uses FRP flex plates instead of carbon fiber items. Being softer and more durable than carbon fiber, these flex plates give you more traction and less breakage in collisions. The chassis has been entirely cut out below the flex plates, allowing full freedom of suspension travel to maximize traction and improve consistency. A side-effect of this change, however, is a lowered roll center, which increases traction still. Optional side springs (not included) can be used in conjunction with the flex plates; preload is adjustable via threaded screws. Ride height is adjustable in 0.25mm increments using a combination of shims and the differential height adjusters; the shims can also be used to adjust roll center and droop.

      Completing the rear suspension is a small disk damper. A Delrin post reduces unwanted friction for smoother action. The disk damper uses the same springs (not included) as other systems, and can be fine-tuned with combinations of springs, damper oils, shims and the top adjustment nut. Additional damping can be provided by an optional tube or oil damper (not included).

      Lightweight, versatile rear pod
      The rear pod is constructed completely of FRP and Delrin. The bottom plate is designed with more material for stiffness; the top plate is conversely thinner to save weight, and is open on the left side to improve motor access. And rather than using a large single bulkhead on each side of the pod, we split each one up into a bulkhead and motor mount to reduce weight.

      The 2-piece motor mount clips onto the motor can and endbell, and then bolts to the bottom of the rear pod. Not only can it be used with any 130-can motor (since it doesn’t require drilled holes in the can), but it saves even more weight and sligihtly lowers the CG of the rear pod as well. This system makes removing/installing motors easier by giving you much more space to work with than other cars.

      Some more rear suspension features are built into the rear pod: the differential height adjusters allow ride height adjustments in increments of 0.5mm, an optional tube or oil damper can be mounted to the hole in the rear pod’s upper plate, and the lower plate has a center mark to take the guesswork out of setting up the rear end.

      Robust, lightweight front end
      To create clearance for low-slung bodies without sacrificing durability, the MRCG uses two machined arms instead of a top brace to hold the kingpins. The minimalist design and Delrin construction of the arms keeps the total weight down. The FRP lower arms can be switched out to adjust caster; the kit comes with 0°, 2°, and 4° lower arms.

      In addition, we utilized the servo strap as a tierod stay and created a linear steering rack like that of the Mini-Z MR02. Ackerman is optimized to provide smoother, more consistent steering. The kit comes with three tierods: 0°, 1° toe-in and 1° toe-out (abbreviated as -1°).

      Quick-release battery system
      The tools-free quick-release battery strap keeps chassis tweak consistent from pack to pack and allows for ridiculously fast battery changes. Twist both latches outwards and the entire battery strap comes off — no need to fumble with clips, screws, or nuts. For those who would rather use tape to secure the batteries, we have cut two additional slots in the chassis to thread the tape through (not shown in prototype). Additionally, there is enough space in the car to fit a variety of lithium-polymer battery packs so you can choose how much power your want your car to put out.

      Optimized for both 94mm and 98mm wheelbases
      The MRCG’s unique wheelbase system shifts the batteries backwards in the 98mm configuration and forwards in the 94mm configuration. This gives the car greater stability and traction on fast, flowing tracks and unparalleled agility on small, tight ones. All that is required to change between the wheelbases is to shift the front end forwards or backwards, and move the side body clips to the other slot.

      Accepts both hard plastic and polycarbonate bodies
      The chassis accepts both hard plastic bodies (Kyosho Auto Scale Collection, Atomic VDS and VDSII, PN Pan Car, etc.) and polycarbonate bodies (using body posts and an optional upper brace, not included). Because of its 94mm and 98mm wheelbase compatibility, the MRCG will fit any Mini-Z MR02 body and several other Mini-Z bodies as well. For polycarbonate bodies, an optional upper brace is available; the mounting points for the body posts are spaced far apart to provide extra stability to the shell.

      Compatible with many Mini-Z MR02 parts
      Being based off the Mini-Z MR02, the MRCG is compatible with all sorts of MR02 option parts: kingpins, front knuckles, springs, bearing sets, motors, differentials, oil dampers, wheels and tires, etc. (In the name of cost-effectiveness the base chassis kit does not include any of these.) You can convert your MR02 to an MRCG or build your MRCG kit from the ground up, the choice is all yours.

      Option parts
      As part of our policy of continuous development, we are developing a wide range of option parts to exploit the MRCG’s immense flexibility. In the works are a super-lightweight ball differential, two RM rear pod conversions (one for “sane” and one for “insane” motors) and more machined Delrin parts; these will make the car even lighter, stronger, and faster, and we look forward to offering them in the future.

      Partially-preassembled chassis
      Every part in the kit is hand-finished before being put together and the entire kit checked for tolerances. Everything comes under scrutiny: the alignment of the front and rear ends, chassis tweak, proper action of the rear suspension, the ease of fitting screws and bearings into their holes, etc. With this process, we can guarantee the quality of the kit and you can have a perfectly-running car the first time around.

      What You’ll Need
      – Superglue/CA glue
      – Light threadlock
      – Mini-Z MR015/02 knuckles, kingpins, springs, spring perches, c-clips, ball differential
      – Aftermarket Mini-Z disk damper spring set (Atomic, PN, etc.)
      – Mini-Z MR01/015/02 wheels, tires, bearings
      – M2 locknuts (4)
      – Micro servo (no wider than 23mm), servo saver
      – Thin double-sided tape for servo
      – Receiver and ESC (or combo)
      – Receiver-compatible transmitter (and transmitter battery pack)
      – Mounting tape for receiver and ESC
      – 130-size motor, Mini-Z pinion
      – Battery pack
      – Charger appropriate for battery pack
      – Hard plastic or Lexan/polycarbonate body, 94mm or 98mm wheelbase

      Prototype Pictures

      mmproto079hz9.jpg

      mmproto080wq2.jpg

      mmproto081tm1.jpg

      mmproto082jk8.jpg

      mmproto083shq4.jpg

    • #60852
      diehard
      Participant
      • Posts: 95

      wow. keep us posted on how it all goes..

    • #60853
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      nice work!

      is there any possibility of using this chassis with say a PN motor mount?

    • #60857
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Thanks guys!

      Commercial motor mounts: no, not as the car is currently. I decided on a couple things beforehand…

      – Allow batteries to sit farther back
      – Allow for oil damper
      – Electronics space not sacrificed when using oil damper
      – Allow me to not have to machine a big u-shaped flex plate
      – Allow ride height adjustment

      Which ultimately led to me just saying “the heck with it, I’ll just make my own motor mount.” I hope I made the right decision. 😉

    • #60859
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      i’m sure you have 😉

      only reason i ask is because i’d love to use this setup with a BL motor. this sweet setup has heaps of pcb room. and even room for a decent lipo pack

    • #60892
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      Yes please keep us informed !!!

      I had a Pro Z chassis and it was cool but was to hard to get parts for !! Pro Z now do an AWD chassis too but it’s just to hard to get one because of there poor customer service… otherwise I would get one !!

      So yeah, Please, Please, let me know once there ready as I would love to get another pan chassis Mini Z…

    • #60906
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      Hi,

      very very nice chassis 😀

      I’m new on this forum and I dedicate you my 1st reply :beer:

      What are you using for programme to do this?
      Thanks

    • #60907
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      looks like AutoCad

    • #60908
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      Thanks a lot for your very fast answer!!!

      yes it’s seems to look like as but I’m not sure you can that with Autocad or?

    • #60919
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Nope, for this kind of stuff Rhino > AutoCAD. It’s Rhinoceros. 🙂

      Thanks for the compliments guys. Now if only the guy I bought the CNC mill from would hurry the F up…

    • #60920
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      you bought a CNC mill!?!?! don’t those things cost a mint?

      i worked at bosch for a bit and they had some kick arse CNC machines. i’m guessing you dont have one of those, but they were 100k so i don’t really see that much room for a price drop…

    • #60959
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      I bought a Taig for $1.8k, the ‘student’ price. 😀

      The CNC stuff has finally come! after multiple threats on my part to file an eBay dispute.

      I got the mill working, and ran a test program through it. Seems to work well, although I won’t be able to see the tolerances until I build some prototype parts. At any rate, the thing IS working at least, so I can finally legitimately say I’m on my way to getting this chassis produced for those interested. 😉

    • #60960
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      looks like a pretty sweet machine.
      so does it take Rhinoceros files straight or is there a whole lot of dicking around required? looks like it would come in handy to reproduce all those broken RC parts

    • #60961
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      Hi,

      Then you have a CNC and mill the chassis yourself… Interessant! Very Interessant :clap: !!!

      1st Ticket on your chassis 😀

      Heuh at 1st how much??? You can email me to give me your quote :smiley2:

      Thanks a lot

    • #60962
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Klims- I wish it would just take Rhinoceros files, lol… but no, I use another Rhino plug-in to calculate the path that the little endmill has to take to cut my parts out of Delrin, aluminum, G10, etc.

      I aimed for $75 price before, but since then I’ve been doing small design changes to lower that. The final price will be up to the retailer anyways, so my job is just to make it smarter-faster-stronger-lighter-cheaper. 🙂

    • #60964
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      :worship:

      But if it’s the retailer I mean, it would cost a lot (and with shipping costs to France :huh: )

      But I searched G10, what is that for material??? I find some Website who talk about eletronic and G10 in the structure but that doesn’t advance me :confused:

      And don’t you think to make it with carbon?

    • #60967
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      Welcome aboard Trinity, I’m pretty sure G10 is the fibreglass sheet that circuit boards are made from

    • #60969
      Renton
      Participant
      • Posts: 117

      Hey color0

      Reckon you could cnc me a bib so I can stop this drooling in style?

      My head wareshouse in Melbourne has a nice machine. Only set up for slotting disc rotors or writting witty banter on them. Buggers wont let me go to town on it to make some things 🙁

      Keep it up. You will have a buyer in I

    • #60972
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      @Pork_Hunt 226245 wrote:

      Welcome aboard Trinity, I’m pretty sure G10 is the fibreglass sheet that circuit boards are made from

      Hi Pork_Hunt,

      yes it was what I was thinking too but I prefer ask before say something wrong 😀

      It was the only ‘strong stucture’ on a circuit board hard enough for make a chasis with…

      Thanks!!!

    • #60973
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      so in theory this machine could route PCB’s too… interesting.

    • #60994
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Hi guys,

      It could, in theory, cut the outlines of PCB’s… but the copper tracks are another story.

      With any luck the retail price will be $75 or lower.

      At the moment of this posting I am running the prototype run of the 1/16″ thick G10 chassis parts. It’s taking a long time, but so far so good, no broken tools, no broken fiberglass, just a little dust up the lungs (heh…) and I’ll be sure to have this all optimized soon.

    • #60995
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      nice work! post up some photos if you can of this bad boy assembled. i’d like to see what the real thing looks like

      on a serious note careful not to breath PCB dust in. its carcinogenic!

    • #61006
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      First batch of G10 prototype parts! The cut quality is no good, but it’s mainly because I used a ruined endmill to cut with. The holes will be countersunk later, no worries.

      millingpe4.jpg

      I plan to get these parts made correctly before moving on to the fancy 4-axis work, so check back for updates. 🙂

    • #61008
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      that looks awesome mate!

      so is this G10 stuff any good? or is it purely for the prototype build? what other materials do you plan to make the chassis from?

      4-axis!?!?! wtf is that? can you tilt the base or head or something? i’d love so see some vid of how this CNC works in the 4th axis if you ever get it working.

    • #61011
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      yeah the extra axes are tilts..

      5 axis is a very common configuration.

    • #61014
      Pork_Hunt
      Participant
      • Posts: 349

      I was hoping the 4th axis was time…

    • #61234
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      I was using the wrong units! D’oh. I have the feed rates right this time, and edge quality is much better, though the cutting bit didn’t go deep enough to separate the pieces entirely from the stock. (It turns out that this plate of fiberglass is slightly thicker than 1/32″.)

      If you look closely at the picture, you’ll notice there are two “kinds” of edges. I was playing around with the settings and found that really slow speeds (6mm/min) are really good but take forever, slightly higher speeds (15-30mm/min) are terrible, and the proper speed (150mm/min) nets nearly perfect cuts (check the outside edges of the flex plates).

      milling004un1.jpg

      So that’s my update. Since I have a 3-day weekend I should be able to do some more work on the fiberglass and get that all sorted out and perfect. The Delrin and aluminum parts may have to wait since I still need some screws to mount my micro vise to the rotary table. Rest assured I will get this done as fast as I possibly can!

    • #61235
      rcs2die4
      Participant
      • Posts: 217

      As Big Kev would have said !! I’M EXCITED ….

    • #61236
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      haha!

      nice work mate. looks like heaps of fun if you have time. its getting into the business end of the semester so i don’t even have time to scratch my arse really!

      looking forward to seeing the 1st model off the line

    • #61239
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      @Pork_Hunt 226304 wrote:

      I was hoping the 4th axis was time…

      lol. i’m pretty sure time comes free in the package…

    • #61247
      Renton
      Participant
      • Posts: 117

      wow!!

      looks great mate, keep up the good work

      makes half my projects look like a 2 year olds puzzle

    • #61254
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Ok, I’ve got good and bad news.

      Good news first: edge quality is perfect on the longer cuts.
      Bad news: edge quality on the countersinks has gone down.
      Worse news: the mill seems to jam up right around this one spot of travel. I have no idea where to look for the cure; the mill is freshly lubed up with WD-40 and the rails are clean. Yet there’s a slight grinding noise and sometimes the whole thing just jams while the CNC control software believes it’s still going.

      Check Exhibit A:

      milling005xi3.jpg

    • #61256
      Dangerous Dave
      Participant
      • Posts: 229

      this is a stab in the dark:

      is the tool height set correctly? looks like the counter sinking bit isn’t coming up high enough to clear the material. Or maybe the material is bowed up in that area?

      hope ya get it sorted!

    • #61258
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      I tried it again immediately after the first and I saw the Z axis jam coming up, which led to the entire Z calibration being offset some 1mm downwards. So I’m not too sure why that happened, if it’s mechanical I hope the grease will solve it, and if it’s software I hope I can find the source of the error by fiddling around with Mach 3.

    • #61202
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      First functional prototype!

      Pics first.

      rmproto002lo5.jpg

      rmproto001ql4.jpg

      rmproto003nl4.jpg

      rmproto004xr1.jpg

      Comments:

      1) The mill countersunk two of the holes a little deeper than the rest. This might have something to do with my fixturing platform (it’s not perfectly trued yet), so I’ll look into it.
      2) I accidentally used climb milling for everything, and had to file the parts a bit to get the finish you see here. Still, not bad.
      3) The chassis went together very smoothly. After the finishing filing, I had only minimal filing to do to make the kingpins fit into the holders. And once in, they are very snug.
      4) The rear suspension is a good stiffness up and down, but the roll stiffness is rather high, even for my tastes. I do not know how this will factor into real-world driving yet.
      5) The front end will not flex unless you hit something really hard. I’ve been testing it with Kyosho hard springs and so far there is no visible flex.
      6) The tierod movement is a little bit stiffer than the MR02, although this is partially because I preloaded the hard springs.

      All in all a decent job, I hope to have the elecs soldered together quite soon and some bearings, wheels and tires (doh, I sold ’em…) and this car will be ready to go!

    • #61203
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      looking good mate! i can’t wait to see a vid of a fully functioning prototype.

      what kind of electronics are you going to be using?

    • #61087
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Got some more work done. The car is currently riding on plastic and metal bushings (!) so don’t expect it to run quite yet.

      Note the new uber-low oil damper config. Now the only things that even reach wheel level are an antenna, two motor wires and a crystal holder. That’s pretty darn low if you ask me. 😉

      rmproto007sp4.jpg

      rmproto010un3.jpg

      Front end detail: Kingpins are held up by exactly 1/8″ of fiberglass milled to spec, it’s stiff. I also got a clean conversion on the HS-50; you’d have to know beforehand that it was a 3-wire servo… 🙂

      rmproto008nd6.jpg

      Rear end detail: Got those side springs in, they work well and don’t click on the spring perches as I had worried about earlier. Also illustrates the height of the oil damper and the amount of leeway you have to shift the batteries back and forth.

      rmproto009yy0.jpg

    • #61088
      jollyboss
      Participant
      • Posts: 71

      mmmh….any upper deck form back to front?

    • #61089
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      not sure if im missing something, but how is the steering servo working? (i don’t mean the wires) i just can’t see how its going to be physically attached

    • #61090
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      The horn pokes up from behind the tierod, and two flat G10 pieces are to be screwed on perpendicularly to the tierod to form a slot around whatever’s poking out of the servo horn.

      It’ll make sense when I finish the build. 🙂

      Edit: and it is, with the exception of a battery pack and a bearing set, complete! The tierod “horn” consists of two glued-on G10 pieces right now but as mentioned above will be screwed on in the final car.

      rmproto013sez7.jpg

      Edit: Considering the ball diff, motor mount and oil damper, it appears I’ve managed to shave a few grams off the MR02’s chassis weight:

      rmproto016gl9.jpg

    • #61094
      klims
      Participant
      • Posts: 332

      ahhh i see. very clever.

      looks like a great project. well done!

      so given the state of the project, when do you expect to be ‘production’ ready?

    • #61400
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Hey guys,

      Sorry it’s been so long without a reply but I’ve been testing this chassis endlessly while trying to balance ‘work’ time (this project) with WORK time (college applications).

      Here’s the RM chassis soldiering through 24 hours of near-zero-maintenance lapping:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrikpi78MPI

      The RM chassis would definitely be production ready if I decided to do it but of course we’re going for the MM, which we (me and several GSR members) will be testing like mad for the rest of the year and into January. It’ll be released then, after baseline setups are determined for Ozite, RCP and concrete, instruction manuals are revised, etc.

    • #61401
      brycevr
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Put me down for one.
      Let me know where to send the funds.
      I’ll prepay if you can give a delivery date. I know what it’s like to get a new enterprise going so some pre-order funds might help.

    • #61467
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      Funding isn’t a huge issue, but I’ll let you know ASAP when I can put a delivery date on these chassis.

      I took the RM car to the tennis court recently, drove over 2″x1″ ruts (2″ wide, 1″ deep!) in the concrete, heard the chassis smack the ground each time, but nothing broke or loosened up. That’s good from a durability standpoint. 🙂

      Even with the batteries pushed full forward, the car has massive rear grip. I was still using medium-compound GRP foams front and rear so it should’ve spun like a top, but all I got was a moderate degree of understeer and a little slide if you brake too hard and wrench the wheel. I’m more than happy with the results.

      Cleaning is about the same time-wise as your average MR02. For those concerned about electronics: I didn’t have any glitching issues despite all the dust on that board, but you may want to seal/heatshrink/case electronics if you drive in more rigorous environments. Indoor cars will have no issues.

      nsx05017cb1.jpg

      I’ve also been working on the MM production car, of course, and the G10 chassis parts are already done:

      mmproto003rc9.jpg

      And I’m just working on the production motor mounts (Delrin rear axle bearing carriers are done, just need to change some settings to make it easier to slip the bearings in). My apologies for the picture quality, but it’s tough to lean into the enclosure while trying to hold a steady hand, lol…

      milling019ir3.jpg

      Anyways, we’re pretty close to release and you can rest assured that the pictures and news will be everywhere when that happens. 🙂

    • #61498
      color0
      Participant
      • Posts: 22

      To tide this thing over until my final exams are done, here’s the latest render straight out of the manual:

      render07ta4.jpg

      Special features include infinitely-adjustable suspension stiffness (yes, infinite :)), quick-release battery strap, Delrin everything in the rear pod, and a new motor mount that doesn’t need drilled cans.

      I haven’t come up with a good enough servo saver so you’ll need a servo saver intended for 1/18.

      With a Ti-shaft ball diff and the small electronics (the new ASF board is just one possibility) the MRCG should weigh around 135g without body; that’s 5-10g less than a similarly equipped MR02, not too bad.

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