Painting

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    • #10164
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      Can somebody explain to me how to paint a BCG body? And how do i make a nice bodykit?

      Greetz Tristan.

    • #22467
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      have you done any painting before?

      have you any experience with spraypaint?

    • #22460
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      Nope, i don’t got any experience with spraypaint.But i have painted some wood 😛

    • #22461
      betty.k
      Participant
      • Posts: 2487

      painting and body mods can be a lot of work. you can do anything to the body, make a bodykit by glueing plastic or with putty or cut parts out. usually lots of sanding with fine sand paper.
      it’s good to wash the body with soap and water and let it dry thoroughly prior to painting.
      then you can paint it with a brush or spray paint, possibly even do some masking for the windows or a 2 tone body, decals, clear coats, etc.

      as you can see, there’s a lot to it if you want or you can do something simple like use a marker to add some detail. the sky’s the limit!:8ball:

    • #22459
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      1.first step is if the windows are clear and you want them to stay that way, mask them off using a modelling masking tape. do not use cheap stuff as it wont work anywhere near as good on this scale. i use tamiya masking tape because of its quality and its size. why do you mask first? because when you use sand paper to remove or smooth out surfaces sometimes you will accidently scratch windows and headlights and this is to be avoided.

      2. bodywork. start of simple and work your way up as you modify your bcg’s. make sure you have a definite plan to each part of the modification e.g. side skirts can be made from plsticard and or putty attached to the sides of the car.when useing putty shape the rough outline of what you want in the end and once it is dry then cut it down with a scalpel (razor and make sure its sharp!) then finally sand it back with 800-1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper (the black sheets). for filling gaps with putty use a small amount over the affected area and then using a peice of plasticard like a butterknife scrape back the exess so that the gap is filled.

      3.prepairing the car. sand the car back a bit to make the surface ready for the paint to stick to it better. check all the masked areas for damage and if damaged re-apply them. romove any stickers if the body is a clone make sure the car by the end of this stage is free of lumps,molding lines,goo from stickers and greasy fingerprints and that the surface is a little textured for the paint to stick…

      4.painting you will need blutac and a 1 liter soda bottle to attach the body to. simply fill the bottle one quater with water, put the lid on, stick a chunk of blutac onto the lid and attach the car body (without the wheels/chassis!) to the lid. you now have a stable painting platform! have a bucket of warm/nearly hot water to sit your sprays in so that they are thinned out a little and spray more eavenly. use primer first (a nuetral undercoat) and then once that is dry use your colour of choice. wiat for that to completely dry and then remove the masking tape carefully.

      what next? you could maybe try using two colours for your final coat but most important of all experiment to get a feel and understanding of spray…

      048AF7F8048AF7F9.jpg
      here i used 5 different shades from silver all the way to deep metalic blue. this was a beat up mini-z that i decided to do some experimenting with…

      711DBC3C711DBC3D.jpg
      with this car i used a deep metalic blue with 5 coats of clear(transparent) purple. it made it a really deep metalic colour that looks allmost black in weak light. the roof was painted by hand in many coats with watered down white acrylic paint. and finally 3 coats of clear went on the top of everything to protect it.

      0F6EEBCA0F6EEBCB.jpg
      the flames where done by hand on this, find the thread started by me in the bcg general discussion section. you might have to go back a fair few pages to find it… enjoy reading about the sites past!

    • #22451
      Admin
      Participant
      • Posts: 5952

      Wow z-beam! You’re great with painting 😯
      I really like the Mini-Z. And thanks for the info! You really helped me out ^^

      Greetz Tristan

    • #22447
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      thanks tristan, what bcg body are you thinking of doing?

      and do you have access to a digital camera?

    • #22448
      bithed
      Participant
      • Posts: 680

      …Zbeam try taking your shots outside in the sun…much better colours…nice fade on the silver z…i suck at fades…too heavy handed…sometimes i put a washer under the spray nozzle, well a 5 JPY coin actuallt because it has a hole in it, but i still end up spraying too much…

    • #22446
      z-beam
      Participant
      • Posts: 2265

      funnily enough bithead the shots were all taken at night under artificial light, but the camera was on auto.

      i recently have started to use manual settings on the digital camera, see the thread about the new supra… without manual the colours were not showing up proper…

      and as far as fade goes, middle colour first and everything after that has got to be on the same angle/axis to keep it looking cool…

      how does the washer help the spray bithed?

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