Paints ‘n stuff
May 20, 2003 at 1:38 am #10777
Where are there any good stores (In Melbourne) to buy paints for the shells on these cars? I was in toyworld and noticed that they had hobby paints in small cap size tins and also spray cans, are these the proper source? Should I be using acrylic paints only? Can i go to a regular paint suppl store? Do I need to go to a art supply store? etc, etc, etc…..?
This area of Bit Char-G is obviously not my forte.:smiley16:
Edited by – ph2t on 19 May 2003 21:40:49
May 20, 2003 at 1:39 am #29932
I think i got my paint from a cheapie store like overflow or something. only $2.50 for a big spray can. i’ll go check the brand.
May 20, 2003 at 1:42 am #29933
the brand is Australian Export paints. make sure you shake it well before you use it and dont spray too close. it wont damage the case either.
May 20, 2003 at 1:45 am #29934
Damn homie that was a quick reply, I was still editing my post for spellos’ :approve: lol!
May 20, 2003 at 1:48 am #29935
the first layer i did on my paint required sanding becuase the paint went all bubbly, not sure why, could have been a dodgy can??? so just make sure it has been shaken well and maybe spray it on something to test.
you can see it on my WRX on my home page. I think bunnings have some good colours too, metallic paint that shouldn’t ruin the shell, havn’t tried that though.
May 20, 2003 at 4:37 am #29937M_CoupeParticipant
- Posts: 207
I used Testors Spray paints and had the same problem with bubbling.
I had two cars painted with auto paint that was mixed and sprayed by some painters we had at the car lot I worked at and they came out EXCELLENT, but I don’t know if I’d recommend trying to find one on your own :smiley2:
May 20, 2003 at 12:51 pm #29942
I will go and check out Bunnings Hardware tomorrow…. Any other ideas fellas?
May 20, 2003 at 3:50 pm #29877
I’m not totally sure what Tomy uses, but chances
are its probably some kind of acrylic waterbased
paint. It does soften with metho… and I’ve then
stripped of the rest using EasyOff.
Big rule with acrylic… do NOT paint Enamels
on top of it!! (you can paint acrylic on
top of enamels, just not enamel on acrylic.)
Your top layer will curdle, the bottom will bubble.
Cheapo spraycans available in most $2 shops and
RejectStore. However your colour choice is very
limited (primary colours & 3 blacks usually)
and often the paint is very thin & runs easily.
Spray results are very variable too… some are
misty fine OK, others just splatter.
KMart & Autobarn sells 6″ spraycans for most
common auto touchup colours. These are handy
and 1 can covers about 1sq.m worth of panel
for about $8 each. If you buy anything marked
“COB” it’ll dry matte, you need to put the
clear coat over it to make it shine.
Humbrol, Airfix, Testors etc sell tiny little
tins at hobby shops… most of these are enamels
though (need thinners to clean brush).
Tamiya however has both Arcylic (“X/XF” round
bottles)and Enamels (“X/XF” square bottles).
The round bottles work great for handpainting
with brushand dries to a very nice gloss (“X”)
or a smooth flat matte (“XF). Its also very
opaque, so usually only need 1 or 2 coats max.
Brushes wash in water, very nice to use.
May 20, 2003 at 4:09 pm #29746
Thanks for that info Panda…..(someone’s on their lunch break, lol!)
May 20, 2003 at 8:59 pm #29715
yeah thats right about the cheap paints, could get a dodgy one, one out of the three i bought was dodgy. oh well.
May 20, 2003 at 9:16 pm #29680ImprezaParticipant
- Posts: 1124
I have had some spatter and some not, both with testor spray can product?? I think the valve head was not on all the way? Or was I just holding the can too close? Panda, I think I put an enamel clear coat on an acrylic base, and it seemed to work out ok? Don’t take my word for it though, will have to check the cans and jars, when I get a chance.
May 21, 2003 at 1:57 am #29700
May 21, 2003 at 2:17 am #29707
yeah its a good paint job that one, nice colour. i like the silver windows too.
May 21, 2003 at 4:52 am #29712ImprezaParticipant
- Posts: 1124
I think he posted that one here as well. A while back?
May 21, 2003 at 1:24 pm #29620
yeah, i thought i had seen it before. still a nice job.
May 21, 2003 at 1:51 pm #29622SurfmyStratParticipant
- Posts: 247
quick q & a:
i was painting my clear celica with the spray kind of stuff, and i screwed up, what do i use to remove the paint. Do you think nail polish remover would work. Cause i saw my sis’s bottle in my bathroom. Or is there some special stuff???
May 21, 2003 at 6:33 pm #39183Quote:…think I put an enamel clear coat on an acrylic base, and it seemed to work out ok?
There are some “fake” synthetic enamels (some call them “acrylic enamels) that don’t really cure like the real thing… you probably
got one of these.
You were lucky… 😀
May 21, 2003 at 6:38 pm #39176Quote:i was painting my clear celica with the spray kind of stuff, and i screwed up, what do i use to remove the paint. Do you think nail polish remover would work. Cause i saw my sis’s bottle in my bathroom. Or is there some special stuff???
It all depends on what kind of paint you’ve used.
You can try borrow a dab of the NPR, most don’t contain much
“acetone” these days and should be ok for the plastics.
However pure acetone will dissolve your plastics!!
If you seriously know what you’re doing, the 1 good paint remover
is ovencleaner “EasyOff”. Warning this is caustic stuff and will
cause bad burns to skin & lungs (don’t ask). But I have stripped
BCG shells with it succesfully, just be careful and use it in a
ventilated space. Spray it on and leave overnight, scrub it a
little the next morning and maybe repeat.
May 21, 2003 at 7:14 pm #29610
June 2, 2003 at 1:21 pm #28477
Well after a bit of scouring around I found some cheap (n’ nasty, yeah!) sprays at Bunnings for $2.45 each. I got Black (mat finish), blue, silver and red. I also picked up a clear gloss for $5.75.
I did a bit of practice coats on some plastic packaging so see how the paint went and so far no problems. I then got my masking tape out and tried some masking jobs of a red line over the black. The red paint needed a few coats but after I let it dry I thought it looked good.
I then took the masking tape off and ARGGHHH!!!! The bloody tape had eaten through the black undercoat. So much for $2 tape. I went back to Bunnings *sigh* and bought some 3M masking tape, the low adhesive, very straight line, 7 days application one. It cost $11 but it’s worth it.
The lesson for today is that you can buy some really nasty paint, but make sure you got good masking tape or it all goes to crap!
June 2, 2003 at 5:43 pm #39140
With you all the way, brother! :blush:
Depending on the paint you’re using, the solvent can soak through the tape and mar the finish of previous coats. Effect is worst on black and dark colours, and sometimes even metallic particulates get rearranged.
3M “blue” tape is good, Tamiya’s yellow stuff is pretty good too.
For the sharpest lines, don’t use the tape edge straight off the roll. Tape it on a glasspane or a flat ceramic tile (I bought ONE from Bunnings for like 20c!) and then use a sharp blade to cut a new edge to the tape.
June 2, 2003 at 5:52 pm #28417
Good idea, I’ll give that a go!
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